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Patio Doors

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Patio doors is the phrase most British homeowners search for, but it covers three quite different products. French doors are a pair of hinged leaves, usually the neatest answer to a narrow opening in a Victorian or 1930s rear wall. Sliding patio doors run large panes past each other on a track and suit a wide opening where swing space is short. Bi-fold doors concertina back to open most of the wall, which is why they dominate rear extensions — and why their track, threshold and drainage detail matters more than the frame material.

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Because these doors are mostly glass, the Building Regulations that apply to them are not the ones that apply to a solid front door. Approved Document K governs impact with glazing and, where the opening is above a drop, guarding. Approved Document L treats a complete new door unit as a controlled fitting with a limiting U-value. Approved Document F expects the ventilation of the dwelling not to end up less satisfactory than before the work. GOV.UK's exemption for external doors applies only where less than half of the door is glazed, which a patio door never is.

Planning is usually the easier half. The Planning Portal's position is that permission is not normally needed to insert new windows and doors of a similar appearance to those used in the construction of the house, with the familiar exceptions for listed buildings, designated areas, Article 4 Directions and leasehold consents. Turning a window into a doorway, or adding an extension to put the doors in, is a different and larger question.

French doors, sliding patio doors and bi-folds compared

  • French doors: two hinged leaves, often with fixed side screens, giving a traditional look that suits period rear elevations and needs swing space inside or out.
  • Sliding patio doors: two or more large panes on a track, with one leaf usually fixed, so the glazed area is generous and nothing swings into the room.
  • Lift-and-slide sliding doors: heavier gear that lifts the sash clear of its seals before it moves, giving a better weather seal when closed at the cost of a heavier action.
  • Bi-fold doors: three to seven panels folding to one or both sides, opening most of the wall but stacking the folded panels somewhere, which people forget when planning furniture.
  • Slim-framed aluminium sliding doors: maximum glass and minimum sightline, popular on extensions, and dependent on accurate installation because the tolerances are small.
  • uPVC patio and French doors: the cost-effective choice for a straightforward replacement, well suited to matching existing uPVC windows on the same elevation.
  • Timber French doors: the usual specification where a conservation officer or listed building consent constrains the rear elevation as well as the front.
  • Bi-fold and sliding doors above a drop, such as a first-floor opening or a Juliette arrangement, which bring the guarding rules in Approved Document K into play.

Choosing between them: opening width, swing space and how often they are really used

The honest question is how you will use the opening day to day. Bi-folds give the largest clear opening and the best summer moment, but on the many British days when the doors stay shut you are looking at more frames than glass, because every panel carries a stile. Sliding doors reverse that: the view when closed is better because there are fewer vertical bars, and roughly half the opening is the most you can ever clear. French doors open fully in a second, which is why they win on a door used several times a day to reach a bin, a shed or a washing line.

Width usually settles it before taste does. A narrow rear opening in a terrace rarely justifies a bi-fold, because once each panel is wide enough to walk through there are only two or three of them and the stacking eats the reveal. A wide opening in an extension is the opposite case. Swing space matters too: French doors opening outwards need clear paving and no pot, planter or table in the arc, and French doors opening inwards need floor space that a small kitchen may not have.

Then there is the maintenance profile, which differs more than the brochures admit. Sliding and bi-fold doors depend on rollers, guides and a track that has to be kept clear; hinged French doors depend on hinges, keeps and a weatherseal. A track full of grit from a British garden is the single most common reason a sliding door becomes hard to move, and it is a cleaning problem before it is a hardware problem.

Glass in a patio door: safety glazing, and why nearly all of it counts

A patio door is a critical location almost from end to end. The Planning Portal identifies the areas needing safety glazing as any panel up to 800mm from floor level, within any glazed door up to 1500mm from floor level, and any side panel to a door within 300mm of the door edge up to 1500mm from floor level. Since a patio door leaf is glazed from close to the floor upwards, the whole lower two-thirds of every panel sits inside the rule, and the fixed screens beside French doors usually do too.

Approved Document K sets out what satisfies requirement K4. In a critical location you comply by ensuring glazing breaks safely, by choosing glazing that is robust or in small panes, or by permanently protecting it. Safe breakage is defined by test in section 4 of BS EN 12600 and clause 5.3 of BS 6206, and a glazing material suits a critical location if it meets Class 3 of BS EN 12600 or Class C of BS 6206 — relaxed to Class 2 or Class B where the pane is in a door or door side panel and its width exceeds 900mm, which most patio door panes do. The document explains the reasoning in terms anyone with children will recognise: an initial impact between waist and shoulder level can be followed by a fall through the glazing.

  • Ask for the glazing classification on the order, not just the phrase toughened, because the classification is what the Approved Document is written around.
  • Approved Document L notes that where other performance such as wind load, safety, security or acoustic attenuation requires thicker glass, an equivalent unit with standard 6mm glazing should be shown to meet the thermal standard.
  • Low-e coatings and an argon-filled cavity are what get a large glazed door to its limiting U-value without resorting to triple glazing.
  • Solar control glass is worth discussing on a south or west-facing opening, where a large glazed wall can make a room uncomfortable on a clear day.
  • Obscured or laminated glass in a side screen can serve privacy and safety at once where a patio door faces a shared path.
  • Manifestation, such as a bar, film or pattern, is the practical answer to a large clear pane people walk into, which Approved Document K treats as a real hazard in large uninterrupted areas of transparent glazing.

Planning permission and building regulations for patio doors

On planning, the default is permissive. The Planning Portal states that you do not usually need to apply for planning permission for the insertion of new windows and doors of a similar appearance to those used in the construction of the house, and notes separately that a new bay window will be treated as an extension and may require permission. The exceptions are the ones to check before ordering: a council may have made an Article 4 Direction withdrawing permitted development rights, a leaseholder may need permission from a landlord or management company, a listed building needs listed building consent for any significant works internal or external, and a conservation area, national park or area of outstanding natural beauty may carry additional restrictions.

On building regulations, a patio door is controlled work. GOV.UK lists replacing windows and doors among alteration projects that might need approval, and its exemption for external doors is limited to those where less than half of the door is glazed — which excludes every patio door. The straightforward route is an installer registered with a competent person scheme: GOV.UK's authorised list covers replacement windows, doors, roof windows or rooflights in existing dwellings through Blue Flame Certification, CERTASS, Certsure, Fensa, NAPIT and ASSURE. The alternative is an application to a building control body, either your local authority's building control department or a private registered building control approver.

Three Approved Documents then apply at once. Approved Document L treats the entire unit including the frame as a controlled fitting, expecting it to be draught-proofed and to meet the limiting standards in Table 4.2, where a door with more than 60% of its internal face glazed is held to 1.4 W/(m²K) or a Doorset Energy Rating of Band C minimum. Approved Document K covers the glazing and any guarding. Approved Document F requires that where building work such as replacing a window or door affects ventilation, the dwelling's ventilation either meets the standards or is not less satisfactory than before the work was carried out.

Thresholds, access and drainage under British rain

The threshold is where a patio door succeeds or fails. A high weathered cill sheds water well and trips people; a flat threshold is easy to cross and asks much more of the drainage detail beneath it. British driving rain makes this a real trade-off rather than a styling choice, particularly on an exposed elevation or where a patio slopes back towards the house.

Approved Document M is the reference point for what a level threshold should achieve, even though its provisions bite on new dwellings rather than on a replacement in an existing one. For the principal private entrance to a dwelling it expects a minimum clear opening width of 775mm, any threshold to be an accessible threshold, and, where a step into the dwelling is unavoidable, a rise of no more than 150mm aligned with the outside face of the door threshold. If someone in your household uses a wheelchair or a walking frame, those numbers give you something concrete to specify rather than a vague request for a low threshold.

  • Confirm where water that gets into the track is designed to go, and that the outlets are not buried by the new paving.
  • Keep external paving below the threshold and falling away from the building, so surface water never ponds against the door.
  • Check that the structural opening is genuinely level and square before large panels are ordered, since sliding and bi-fold gear tolerates very little movement.
  • Agree how the frame will be fixed and sealed into the reveal, and how the cavity will be closed, before the old unit is removed.
  • Ask what happens to the floor finish at the threshold, which is where a level detail most often ends up looking improvised.
  • Plan where a bi-fold's folded panels will sit, and whether they will foul a wall light, a downpipe or a planter.
  • Discuss a traffic door or access leaf on a sliding or bi-fold set, so everyday use does not mean moving the whole screen.

Guarding, upper-floor openings and children

A glazed door at an upper floor, or above any change of level, engages requirement K2 as well as K4. K2 asks that stairs, ramps, floors and balconies, and any roof to which people have access, be provided with barriers where it is necessary to protect people from falling. Approved Document K's guarding table for single family dwellings sets 900mm for stairs, landings, ramps and the edges of internal floors, and 1100mm for external balconies including Juliette balconies and the edges of a roof. That 1100mm figure is the one that governs the Juliette arrangement people fit behind French doors on a first floor.

Where the glazing itself is doing the containing, the same table gives a height below 800mm for glazing at changes of level provided to give containment, and 800mm at opening windows other than roof windows in loft extensions. In other words a glazed panel can be part of the guarding solution, but only if it is designed for that job — it is not something to assume because the glass looks substantial.

Children get a specific rule. In a building that may be used by children under five during normal use, Approved Document K expects guarding to be built so that a 100mm sphere cannot pass through any openings in it, and so that children cannot readily climb it, which means avoiding horizontal rails. If you are fitting a Juliette balcony or any guarding behind a patio door in a family home, raise both points with the installer at quotation stage, because a design that fails either one is difficult to correct after installation.

Keeping tracks, rollers and seals working

  • Vacuum and wipe the bottom track regularly, since grit dragged in from a garden path is the usual cause of a sliding door that has become heavy.
  • Check and clear the drainage slots in the outer frame and track, because a blocked slot holds water exactly where the design never intended.
  • Lubricate rollers, guides, hinges and locking gear on a schedule rather than waiting for something to bind, and use the lubricant the manufacturer specifies.
  • Have rollers adjusted when a panel starts to catch or drag, as running a misaligned panel wears both the roller and the track.
  • Wash gaskets and weatherseals rather than painting them, and replace perished sections instead of packing out the gap.
  • Inspect the threshold and the paving beyond it each autumn, before the wettest months rather than during them.
  • Keep bi-fold hinges and the top track clean, and look for scoring on the track that shows a panel is not running true.
  • Tell your installer about any change in how the doors feel early, since alignment problems are cheap to correct and expensive to ignore.

Patio Doors: frequently asked questions

Do I need planning permission for patio doors or bi-folds at the back of my house?

Usually not for the doors themselves. The Planning Portal states that you do not usually need planning permission for the insertion of new windows and doors of a similar appearance to those used in the construction of the house. Check four things before assuming that applies: whether your council has made an Article 4 Direction withdrawing permitted development rights, whether the building is listed and therefore needs listed building consent for any significant works, whether you are in a conservation area, national park or area of outstanding natural beauty where additional restrictions may apply, and whether as a leaseholder you need your landlord's or management company's permission.

Does a patio door need building regulations approval?

Yes. GOV.UK lists replacing windows and doors among alteration projects that might need building regulations approval, and the exemption it offers for external doors covers only those where less than half of the door is glazed, which no patio door is. You satisfy the regulations either through an installer registered with a competent person scheme — GOV.UK's authorised list for replacement windows and doors in existing dwellings names Blue Flame Certification, CERTASS, Certsure, Fensa, NAPIT and ASSURE — or by applying to a building control body, which is your local authority's building control department or a private registered building control approver.

Do bi-fold and sliding doors have to have safety glass?

In practice, across nearly the whole panel. The Planning Portal puts the critical locations at any panel up to 800mm from floor level, within any glazed door up to 1500mm from floor level, and any side panel within 300mm of the door edge up to 1500mm from floor level. Approved Document K then accepts glazing that breaks safely, is robust or in small panes, or is permanently protected, and treats a material as suitable if it satisfies Class 3 of BS EN 12600 or Class C of BS 6206 — or Class 2 and Class B respectively where the pane is in a door or side panel and exceeds 900mm in width.

What guarding do I need for French doors on a first floor?

Requirement K2 asks for barriers where they are needed to stop people falling, and Approved Document K's guarding table for single family dwellings gives 1100mm for external balconies including Juliette balconies and edges of roof, against 900mm for stairs, landings, ramps and edges of internal floors. Where glazing itself provides the containment at a change of level, the table gives a height below 800mm. If children under five may use the building, the guarding should also be built so that a 100mm sphere cannot pass through any opening in it and so that it cannot readily be climbed, which means avoiding horizontal rails.

Will new patio doors need a trickle vent?

Ventilation has to be considered, and often that means a background ventilator. Approved Document F says that where building work such as replacing a window or door affects the ventilation of an existing dwelling, the ventilation should either meet the standards in the relevant approved document or not be less satisfactory than before the work was carried out. Its guidance on replacement is explicit that where existing windows have background ventilators the replacements should include them, no smaller than the originals and controllable either automatically or by the occupant. Background ventilators are intended to normally be left open, so taping one shut to stop a draught defeats the point.

How does LokalMatch work for patio doors?

You set out the job once — the opening, whether you are after French doors, a sliding set or bi-folds, the threshold you want and anything unusual about access or the age of the property — and door installers working near your postcode get in touch with you directly. Installers pay for the requests they take; there is no charge to a homeowner for posting one. LokalMatch does not supply or fit doors, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so checking competent person scheme registration, agreeing the glazing specification and pinning down the threshold detail are still down to you.

Sources

  1. GOV.UK: Building regulations approval
  2. GOV.UK: Competent person scheme — current schemes and how schemes are authorised
  3. GOV.UK: Approved Document K — protection from falling, collision and impact
  4. GOV.UK: Approved Document L — conservation of fuel and power
  5. GOV.UK: Approved Document F — ventilation
  6. GOV.UK: Approved Document M — access to and use of buildings
  7. Planning Portal: Doors and windows — planning permission
  8. Planning Portal: Doors and windows — Building Regulations
  9. legislation.gov.uk: Building (Scotland) Regulations 2004, Schedule 3
  10. Scottish Government: Building standards

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of patio door

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare door installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask door installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for patio door

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Patio door permits and local rules

Some patio door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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