Interior Doors
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Internal doors are the least regulated and most abused doors in a British house. A Victorian terrace still carries four-panel doors that have been painted shut, unscrewed, rehung the wrong way round and had their mouldings filled; a 1970s semi has flush hollow doors that sound like a drum; a converted flat has a front door that is doing fire safety work its owner may not know about. Most replacements are carpentry rather than building work, which is why the job is often quoted by a joiner rather than by a door company.
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The regulatory position is mostly permissive. GOV.UK's list of work that does not need building regulations approval starts with most repairs, replacements and maintenance work, and swapping an internal door leaf in an existing house sits comfortably inside that. Three exceptions matter. Glazed internal doors and low-level panels in internal walls and partitions fall within the critical locations covered by Approved Document K. Fire doors, particularly in flats, sit inside the fire strategy of Approved Document B Volume 1. And door and corridor widths in new dwellings are set by Approved Document M.
That last one is worth borrowing even where it does not apply. Part M's provisions bite on new homes rather than on a door swap in an existing one, but its numbers give you a concrete target if accessibility matters to your household — and they explain why a British 826mm door leaf is the size it is.
Internal door types in British homes
- Four-panel and six-panel timber doors: the original doors of Victorian, Edwardian and interwar houses, often still repairable under decades of paint.
- Flush doors: plain-faced doors, usually hollow cored, fitted in enormous numbers from the post-war period onwards and easy to replace like for like.
- Moulded panel doors: a pressed skin over a core that imitates a panelled door at a fraction of the weight, the mainstream modern replacement.
- Glazed internal doors: half-glazed or fully glazed leaves that borrow daylight into a dark hallway, and that bring Approved Document K's impact rules with them.
- Fire doorsets: rated door assemblies used in flats and in certain houses, where the door, the frame, the seals and the closer work as one tested assembly.
- Pocket doors: a leaf sliding into a stud cavity, which saves swing space but commits you to opening up the wall if the gear ever fails.
- Sliding and barn-style doors: surface-mounted track systems that suit tight landings and en-suites, at the cost of a poorer acoustic and smoke seal.
- Bi-fold internal doors: folding leaves for cupboards, utility spaces and small rooms where a hinged door would block the floor.
Hollow, solid and engineered cores: what you are actually buying
- Hollow core: a lightweight lattice or honeycomb inside two facings, cheap and easy to hang, but poor for sound and limited in where it will hold a screw.
- Solid timber: traditional stiles, rails and panels, heavy, repairable and able to take ironmongery anywhere, which is why period doors survive so long.
- Engineered or laminated core: stable, machined-to-size construction that resists the seasonal movement a British winter causes in solid timber.
- Solid particle or chipboard core: much better acoustically than a hollow door and a common upgrade for bedrooms, bathrooms and home offices.
- Fire door cores: purpose-made tested constructions where cutting down the leaf beyond the manufacturer's tolerance voids the rating entirely.
- Veneered versus primed faces: a veneer is finished on site with stain or oil, a primed face is painted, and the choice affects how the door ages in a damp hallway.
- Glazed leaves: the glass and its beading are part of the door's rating and its safety classification, so they are not an aesthetic swap.
- Ironmongery: hinges, latches and handles are the consumables on a door used dozens of times a day, and their weight rating should match the leaf.
Measuring up: door leaves, linings and out-of-square openings
British houses rarely offer a square opening, and old ones almost never do. Settlement, replastering, new floor build-ups and a century of alterations mean that the width at the head and the width at the floor can differ noticeably in the same doorway, and that the lining itself may be out of plumb. The practical consequence is that a door bought to a nominal size frequently needs easing, and that the amount of easing available depends on the core: a solid or engineered door tolerates it, a hollow core door has very little material at the edge before the lattice is exposed.
It helps to know the reference point the regulations use. Approved Document M measures a door by its clear opening width, taken between the inside face of the open door and the inside edge of the frame or stop, and notes that handles, other door furniture and weatherboards may be ignored when measuring it. It then records that a standard 826mm door leaf up to 44mm thick will be deemed to satisfy a requirement for a clear opening width of 775mm — which is the reason that leaf size is stocked everywhere in Britain, and a useful check when someone tells you a narrower door will do.
- Measure the opening at head, middle and floor level, on both faces, before ordering anything.
- Check whether the lining is plumb and square, since a leaf cut to a skewed opening will never close evenly.
- Decide the direction of swing and which side takes the hinges before the order, not on the day.
- Allow for the floor finish: new carpet, thicker underlay or a raised threshold is a common reason a new door catches.
- Ask whether the quote includes replacing the lining and architrave, which is often the difference between two very different prices.
- Confirm the leaf's permitted trimming allowance with the manufacturer's data before anyone reaches for a plane.
- Seal any edge that has been cut, immediately, so the exposed material does not take up moisture from a damp hallway.
When an internal door is actually regulated
Most of the time it is not. GOV.UK's list of exempt projects that do not need building regulations approval begins with most repairs, replacements and maintenance work, and an ordinary internal door swap in an existing house belongs there. The site still adds the general caution that you must meet safety and energy efficiency standards even if you do not need formal approval, and suggests checking with a building control body if you cannot decide.
Glazing is the first exception, and it applies indoors as much as out. Approved Document K's critical locations are shown for internal and external walls and partitions alike, and the Planning Portal describes the general position as safety glazing on any panel — giving internal and external walls and partitions as its example — up to 800mm from floor level, within any glazed door up to 1500mm from floor level, and on any side panel within 300mm of the door edge up to 1500mm. Approved Document K explains that impacts with glazing in doors and door side panels and at low level in walls and partitions cause cutting and piercing injuries, and that in walls away from doors the risk relates predominantly to low-level glazing where children are especially vulnerable.
Fire is the second. Approved Document B Volume 1 covers fire safety in dwellings, and it deals specifically with means of escape from the entrance doors of flats to a final exit; its guidance on door fastenings for escape routes carries an explicit note that those paragraphs do not apply to flat entrance doors, which are handled as their own case. It also points to Approved Document K for guidance on the safety of glazing. If a door in your home is a fire door — most obviously a flat entrance door, but also doors in certain houses where a loft conversion or additional storey has changed the escape strategy — treat it as part of a tested assembly rather than as a leaf you can swap, and take advice from building control or the managing agent before ordering.
Door widths and clearances: the new-build standard as a benchmark
Approved Document M sets the accessibility standard for new dwellings, and although it does not govern replacing a door in an existing house, it is the clearest available statement of what works. For the principal private entrance to a dwelling it expects a minimum clear opening width of 775mm and an accessible threshold, with any unavoidable step limited to a 150mm rise aligned with the outside face of the door threshold. For the principal communal entrance door of a building containing the dwelling it expects the same 775mm clear opening width, an accessible threshold, and a ground or entrance flooring surface that does not impede wheelchairs.
Inside the dwelling it ties door width to corridor width, because the two only work together. Every door to a habitable room and to the room containing the WC on the entrance storey should have a minimum clear opening width set out in its Table 1.1, which pairs a 750mm doorway with a 900mm corridor approached head on or a 1200mm corridor where the approach is not head-on, a 775mm doorway with a 1050mm corridor on a non head-on approach, and an 800mm doorway with a 900mm corridor where the approach is not head on. The document also asks that a localised obstruction such as a radiator does not sit opposite or close to a doorway, is no longer than 2m, and does not reduce the corridor below 750mm at any point.
- Measure clear opening width the way the Approved Document does, ignoring handles and other door furniture, rather than measuring the leaf.
- Remember the deemed-to-satisfy note: a standard 826mm leaf up to 44mm thick satisfies a 775mm clear opening width requirement.
- Check the approach as well as the doorway, because a narrow landing can defeat a perfectly wide door.
- Look at what sits opposite the door, since a radiator or a bulky unit is often the real obstruction.
- Consider lever handles rather than knobs where grip strength is an issue, and set them at a consistent height throughout.
- Where a wider opening is impossible, ask about rising butt hinges or a reversed swing, which can recover useful clearance.
- Raise access requirements at quotation stage, since widening a lining is structural work on some walls and trivial on others.
Rehang, refinish or replace an internal door
Original doors in a British period house are usually worth keeping. The joinery is better than most of what replaces it, the proportions suit the room, and a door that binds or drags is far more often a hinge, lining or floor problem than a door problem. Stripping decades of paint, repairing a split panel and rehanging on sound hinges routinely produces a better door than anything the same money buys new — and in a listed building, where consent is needed for works affecting the character of the building, repair may be the only route available.
Replacement earns its place when the leaf itself has failed rather than its ironmongery. A hollow core door with a crushed edge that will no longer hold a hinge screw, a leaf that has been trimmed so often the gaps can no longer be closed, a door that has bowed enough to touch the stop at only one point, or a door whose fire rating is unknown in a position that needs one — these are cases where a new doorset is the honest answer.
- Loose hinges, dropped leaves and doors catching on new flooring are adjustment jobs, not replacement jobs.
- A split panel or a loose joint in a solid timber door is repairable by a joiner and usually worth repairing.
- A hollow core door damaged at the edge or the lock block generally is not worth repairing.
- Upgrading a hollow door to a solid core is the reliable way to improve sound between rooms; seals alone will not do it.
- If a door needs to be a fire door, buy a tested doorset rather than trying to upgrade an unknown leaf.
- Replace the lining and architrave at the same time where the lining is out of square, since a new leaf cannot fix a skewed frame.
- LokalMatch makes it easy to get an opinion before you commit: describe the doors once, including how many, whether they are original, and whether any of them are fire doors, and matched joiners and door installers covering your postcode contact you directly. They pay for the requests they receive, while posting one costs a homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not do the work, sets no prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so references, insurance and a written quotation are still worth asking for.
Living with internal doors: decoration, seals and ironmongery
- Redecorate all six faces of a timber door, including the top and bottom edges, so moisture cannot get in where nobody looks.
- Let a new leaf acclimatise in the house before it is finished and hung, rather than fitting it straight off the van.
- Tighten hinge screws before they strip, and plug and redrill a hole that has lost its grip rather than moving to a longer screw indefinitely.
- Adjust the keep or strike plate when a latch starts catching, since forcing a misaligned latch is how the mechanism fails.
- Never wedge or disable a self-closing device on a fire door, because closing and latching by itself is the entire point of it.
- Keep intumescent and smoke seals intact and unpainted on a fire doorset, and report damaged seals rather than patching them.
- Check the clearance at the bottom of the door after new flooring is laid, before the door has scuffed an arc into it.
- Oil or clean ironmongery periodically, and replace worn hinges in matched sets rather than one at a time.
Interior Doors: frequently asked questions
Do I need building regulations approval to change an internal door?
Usually not. GOV.UK's list of exempt projects that do not need building regulations approval begins with most repairs, replacements and maintenance work, and an ordinary internal door swap falls within that. It still cautions that you must meet safety and energy efficiency standards even where no formal approval is needed. Two situations change the answer: glazing in a critical location, which Approved Document K covers for internal walls and partitions as well as external ones, and any door that is a fire door, which belongs to the fire strategy in Approved Document B Volume 1.
Does a glazed internal door need safety glass?
If the glass sits in a critical location, yes — and in a door it almost always does. Approved Document K's critical locations diagram covers internal and external walls and partitions, and the Planning Portal describes the general position as safety glazing on any panel up to 800mm from floor level, within any glazed door up to 1500mm from floor level, and on any side panel within 300mm of the door edge up to 1500mm. Approved Document K allows glazing that breaks safely, glazing that is robust or in small panes, or glazing that is permanently protected, with safe breakage defined by test in BS EN 12600 and BS 6206.
What width should an internal door be?
Approved Document M sets the standard for new dwellings, and it is a useful benchmark anywhere. It expects every door to a habitable room and to the entrance-storey WC to meet a minimum clear opening width from its Table 1.1, which pairs a 750mm doorway with a 900mm corridor approached head on, a 750mm doorway with a 1200mm corridor where the approach is not head-on, a 775mm doorway with a 1050mm corridor, and an 800mm doorway with a 900mm corridor. It measures clear opening width ignoring handles and other door furniture, and notes that a standard 826mm door leaf up to 44mm thick satisfies a 775mm requirement.
Can I replace the front door of my flat myself?
Treat it as a fire safety question first. Approved Document B Volume 1 deals with fire safety in dwellings and specifically with means of escape from the entrance doors of flats to a final exit, and it handles flat entrance doors as a distinct case — its guidance on door fastenings for escape routes carries an explicit note that those paragraphs do not apply to flat entrance doors. A flat entrance door is generally part of a tested assembly whose ability to close and latch by itself is the protection it provides. Speak to building control or the managing agent, and as a leaseholder check whether your landlord's or management company's permission is needed.
Are my original Victorian doors worth restoring?
Very often, yes. The joinery in an original panel door is usually better than its modern equivalent, the proportions match the room, and most complaints about old doors trace to hinges, linings, floor build-up or paint rather than to the door itself. If the building is listed, restoration may be the only option in any case: government planning practice guidance says that any works to alter a listed building in a way that affects its character as a building of special architectural or historic interest require listed building consent, whether or not planning permission is also needed, and that doing them without consent is a criminal offence under section 9 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990.
How do I stop sound travelling between rooms?
Change the door, not just the seals. The single biggest factor is mass: a hollow core door has very little of it, and no amount of brush seal or draught excluder will compensate. Upgrading to a solid or solid particle core leaf, hung on hinges rated for the weight, with a well-fitted lining and consistent gaps around the leaf, does most of the work. Bear in mind that a fire doorset's intumescent and smoke seals exist for fire and smoke rather than for acoustics, and that they should never be painted over or removed in pursuit of a quieter room.
Sources
- GOV.UK: Building regulations approval — work that does not need approval
- GOV.UK: Approved Document M — access to and use of buildings
- GOV.UK: Approved Document K — protection from falling, collision and impact
- GOV.UK: Approved Document B — fire safety
- GOV.UK: Conserving and enhancing the historic environment (planning practice guidance)
- Planning Portal: Doors and windows — Building Regulations
- legislation.gov.uk: Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990
- legislation.gov.uk: Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012
- Scottish Government: Building standards
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of interior door
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Number, size and style of windows or doors
- Frame material and glass options
- Full-frame replacement or insert
- Repairs to rotted framing or sills
- Interior and exterior trim and capping
- Access, including upper floors
How to compare door installers before you hire
- Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
- Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
- Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
- Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
- For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.
Questions to ask door installers before you hire
- Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
- How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
- Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
- How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
- Will your own crew do the installation?
When to call a pro for interior door
- Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
- Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
- A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.
Interior door permits and local rules
Some interior door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingGuides about interior door
- ✦
Window & Door Contractors guide
Replacing windows is one of the few home improvements in England and Wales that is notifiable building work nearly every time, and replacing a door often is as well.
Read guide - ✦
Window Installers guide
Hiring a window installer in the United Kingdom is unlike hiring most other trades, because the person fitting your windows is usually also the person certifying that the work meets the Building Regulations.
Read guide - ✦
Window Replacement guide
Replacing the windows in a British home is a purchase with a paper trail attached. The units themselves are made to measure, the contract is often signed at your kitchen table rather than in a showroom, and the job…
Read guide
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