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French doors are a pair of hinged glazed leaves that open from the middle, and in British houses they are usually not a replacement for anything. They are what a window becomes. The commonest job by far is knocking out a rear window and its brickwork down to floor level to open a dining room or kitchen onto the garden, which means the leaves are the easy part and the wall above them is the real work.

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Because the opening changes, three sets of rules engage at once that a straight window swap never touches. The structure over the new opening has to be designed and supported. The total area of glazing in the house comes into play under a rule most people have never heard of. And if the window you are removing was the room's means of escape, its replacement has to do that job too.

The doors themselves are then governed by the same standards as any other external door: glass low in the leaf sits in the safety glazing rules, and the energy standard depends on how much of the door is glazed. Our patio doors guide compares French doors against sliders and bi-folds; this one is about getting a pair of them into a wall that did not have a door in it.

Planning permission: usually not, with real exceptions

For most houses, turning a rear window into French doors is permitted development. The Planning Portal's guidance on doors and windows treats the insertion of new windows and doors that are of a similar appearance to those used in the construction of the house as not requiring permission. That wording is about appearance, so French doors in a style and material consistent with the rest of the house on a rear elevation are the straightforward case.

The exceptions are specific. The Planning Portal states that where new windows are in an upper-floor side elevation they must be obscure-glazed and either non-opening or more than 1.7 metres above the floor level, which rules out most upper-floor French doors on a side elevation without permission. It notes that a new bay window will be treated as an extension and may require permission. In a listed building you will need listed building consent for any significant works, internal or external. And in a conservation area, national park or area of outstanding natural beauty there may be additional restrictions, with councils able to make an Article 4 Direction withdrawing permitted development rights.

Flats and maisonettes do not carry the same permitted development rights as houses, and a leaseholder altering an external wall will almost always need the freeholder's consent as well as any planning consent. Front elevations are also more sensitive than rear ones almost everywhere. A ten-minute call to the council's planning duty line, before ordering doors made to measure, is the cheapest insurance available on this job.

Building regulations: the structure, and the 25 per cent rule

Forming a new opening or enlarging an existing one is structural work, and the support over the doors has to be sized for what it carries rather than copied from the neighbours. That is separate from, and additional to, anything the doors themselves must achieve, and it is the part of the job that needs designing and inspecting properly. Work with an installer who treats the lintel as an engineering question rather than an item on a price list.

The rule that surprises people sits in Approved Document L paragraph 10.5. If a window is enlarged or a new one is created, either the area of windows, roof windows, rooflights and doors should not exceed 25 per cent of the total floor area of the dwelling, or, where it does exceed 25 per cent, compensating measures should be taken to improve the energy efficiency of the dwelling. French doors replacing a modest window add a good deal of glazed area, and on a house that has already gained a large rooflight or a glazed extension the cumulative figure can pass the threshold.

The doors themselves are controlled fittings, and Table 4.2 splits doors by how much glass they carry. A door with more than 60 per cent of its internal face glazed must meet a maximum U-value of 1.4 W/(m²·K) or a Doorset Energy Rating of Band C minimum; other doors must meet 1.4 W/(m²·K) or Doorset Energy Rating Band B minimum. A pair of French doors is comfortably in the first category, so it is the Band C line that applies if the energy rating route is being used.

Escape: if the window you are removing was the way out

In a great many British houses a habitable room's window doubles as its emergency escape route, and replacing that window changes something the fire strategy depended on. Approved Document B Volume 1 sets out what such an opening must do. Windows providing emergency escape should have an unobstructed openable area with a minimum area of 0.33m², a minimum height of 450mm and a minimum width of 450mm, where the route through the window may be at an angle rather than straight through, and with the bottom of the openable area a maximum of 1100mm above the floor.

It adds two practical provisions that matter here. Locks, with or without removable keys, and opening stays with child-resistant release catches may be fitted to escape windows; and windows should be capable of remaining open without being held. People escaping should also be able to reach a place free from danger from fire, which is why an escape opening onto an enclosed courtyard or an inaccessible back garden is treated separately.

The good news is that a pair of French doors onto a garden generally makes escape from that room better rather than worse, because a full-height external door is a more generous exit than a window ever was. The trap is the reverse case: replacing an escape window with French doors that open onto an enclosed courtyard from which there is no way out, or doing the work on an upper floor onto a Juliet balcony where the opening is guarded. Raise the escape question with your building control body rather than assuming a bigger hole is automatically a better one.

Glazing: nearly all of a French door is in a critical location

Approved Document K identifies critical locations in internal and external walls and doors where glazing must be dealt with because of the risk of human impact, and a French door is glazed from close to floor level upwards, so essentially the whole of each leaf sits inside them. Requirement K4 is met in one of four ways: glazing that breaks safely, glazing that is robust, glazing in small panes, or glazing permanently protected by a screen.

For a French door in practice, the first route is the one taken, and the classification depends on the pane width. A glazing material is suitable for a critical location if it satisfies Class 3 of BS EN 12600 or Class C of BS 6206, or, where installed in a door or door side panel with a pane width exceeding 900mm, Class 2 of BS EN 12600 or Class B of BS 6206. Side panels flanking French doors are caught by the same rule, and are the element most often overlooked because they are not the door.

Approved Document K's fourth route is worth understanding so it is not misapplied. Glazing protected by a permanent screen does not itself need to comply with K4, but the screen must prevent a sphere of 75mm coming into contact with the glazing, be robust, and, where it protects glazing installed to help prevent people falling, be difficult to climb, with no horizontal rails. That is a genuine guarding element, not a blind, a grille or a piece of furniture placed in front of the door.

Choosing and ordering: the details that decide how they work

  • Which leaf is the master and which the slave, and whether the slave leaf can be released easily when you need the full opening.
  • Whether the doors open inwards or outwards: outward-opening frees internal floor space but puts the leaves into the weather and into any path outside.
  • The central meeting point, since a rebated pair without a central mullion gives a clear opening and a pair with one does not.
  • Shootbolts top and bottom on the slave leaf, and a multipoint lock on the master, since a French door pair has more to secure than a single door.
  • Whether side panels are included, which changes both the structural opening and the safety glazing schedule.
  • How the doors are held open in wind, which on an exposed British rear elevation is the difference between usable and permanently shut.
  • Whether the threshold arrangement suits the levels outside, given that a door at floor level sits much closer to the ground than the window it replaced.

Common regrets on French door conversions

  • Ordering the doors before the structural design is settled, so the opening ends up a size the doors do not suit.
  • Forgetting that the room loses a radiator wall, since a full-height opening usually takes out the only wall the radiator could sit on.
  • No thought given to where the leaves go when open, so a dining table or a garden path blocks one of them permanently.
  • Ground levels outside left unchanged, so rainwater and leaves collect against a door that now sits at floor level.
  • Curtains and blinds treated as an afterthought on an opening far wider and taller than the window it replaced.
  • Escape provision for the room quietly worsened, typically by opening onto an enclosed courtyard with no route out.
  • Side panels specified without the safety glazing schedule being revisited.

French Doors: frequently asked questions

Do I need planning permission to replace a rear window with French doors?

Usually not. The Planning Portal treats inserting new windows and doors of a similar appearance to those used in the construction of the house as permitted development. Listed buildings need listed building consent, designated areas may carry additional restrictions, an Article 4 Direction can withdraw the rights, and flats do not have the same rights as houses.

What building regulations apply to putting French doors into a wall?

Three things at once. The new or enlarged opening is structural work needing proper support. Paragraph 10.5 of Approved Document L applies its 25 per cent whole-house glazing area test, or compensating measures. And the doors are controlled fittings: with more than 60 per cent of the internal face glazed, they need 1.4 W/(m²·K) or Doorset Energy Rating Band C minimum.

What is the 25 per cent rule?

Paragraph 10.5 of Approved Document L Volume 1 provides that where a window is enlarged or a new one created, the area of windows, roof windows, rooflights and doors should not exceed 25 per cent of the dwelling's total floor area, or compensating measures should be taken to improve the energy efficiency of the dwelling. It is cumulative across the whole house.

The window I am removing is my bedroom's fire escape. Does that matter?

Yes, and it should be raised with building control. Approved Document B expects an emergency escape window to have an unobstructed openable area of at least 0.33m², at least 450mm in both height and width, with the bottom of the openable area no more than 1100mm above the floor, and people escaping must be able to reach a place free from danger from fire.

Does all the glass in French doors have to be toughened or laminated?

Effectively yes, because a French door is glazed down to near floor level and so sits in Approved Document K's critical locations. Glazing must satisfy Class 3 of BS EN 12600 or Class C of BS 6206, or Class 2 or Class B where the pane width in a door or side panel exceeds 900mm. Side panels are caught too.

Sources

  1. Planning Portal: planning permission for doors and windows
  2. Approved Document L, Conservation of fuel and power, Volume 1: Dwellings
  3. Approved Document B: Fire safety, Volume 1: Dwellings
  4. Approved Document K: Protection from falling, collision and impact

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of French door

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare door installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask door installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for French door

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

French door permits and local rules

Some French door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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