Door Repair
Door Repair near you
Most doors that misbehave in a British house need adjusting rather than replacing. A timber front door that binds every autumn and frees up in spring, a uPVC back door whose multipoint lock will not throw unless you lift the handle and lean on it, an internal door that catches on new carpet, a flat entrance door that no longer closes on its own: these are ordinary faults with ordinary fixes, and replacing the door is usually the expensive way to solve them.
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Door repair specialists and joiners adjust and replace hinges, rehang and ease doors, realign keeps and strike plates, service and replace multipoint locking gear and cylinders, renew weatherseals and draught excluders, splice out rot in timber frames and cills, and repair sliding, bifold and pocket door hardware. Work inside the lock itself, and lost keys, go to a locksmith.
The British angles worth knowing before you pick up the phone are damp, heritage and fire. Our climate swells timber doors for much of the year rather than briefly. A listed building or a conservation area can restrict what you may do to a door on a visible elevation. And in flats, a front door is often a fire door with a job to do, which changes a sticking-door problem into a safety one.
Why British doors stick, drop and refuse to lock
The gap around a closed door tells you most of what is wrong. Shut it and look along the top and both stiles: where the gap closes to nothing the door is binding, and where it opens out something has moved. A door rubbing at the top corner on the handle side, with a widening gap at the bottom, has almost always dropped on its hinges.
- Seasonal swelling: timber doors and frames take up moisture through a damp British autumn and winter and shrink back in heated, drier air, so a door that binds for part of the year usually needs adjusting rather than planing.
- Loose or worn hinges: the top hinge carries most of the weight, and once its screws lose their grip in the frame the door drops towards the latch side.
- Dropped uPVC and composite doors: the sash settles on its hinges, the multipoint lock keeps no longer line up, and the handle has to be forced to throw the bolts.
- Multipoint lock faults: gearbox wear is common where a dropped door has been forced for months, and forcing the handle is what finally breaks it.
- Movement and settlement: in old houses and new builds alike, frames go out of square and a door binds even with sound hinges.
- Floor coverings: new carpet, thicker underlay or a raised threshold leaves the bottom edge catching.
- Rot at the foot of the frame: rain running down the face of a door sits on the cill and rots the bottom of the jambs, which is where British timber frames usually fail first.
- Sliding, bifold and pocket doors: rollers, guides and pivots wear or jump their track and need adjustment rather than replacement of the door.
How a sticking door is put right: hinges first, planing last
A good repair starts with the least destructive fix and stops as soon as the door works. Removing timber is permanent, and a door eased during a damp spell can rattle and leak draughts once it dries out, so planing is a last resort rather than a first move.
On uPVC and composite doors the equivalent is adjustment rather than cutting. Most modern hinges adjust in two or three planes with an Allen key, and a door that has dropped a few millimetres can usually be lifted back so the multipoint bolts meet their keeps cleanly. Getting that right also takes the strain off the gearbox, which is what stops the lock failing next.
- Tighten or repair the hinge fixings: stripped holes are plugged or longer screws used to reach solid timber, which often lifts a dropped door back into place.
- Adjust the hinges: uPVC and composite hinges are adjusted for height, compression and lateral position; timber doors may be shimmed or the mortice deepened.
- Replace worn hinges: sloppy pins or bent leaves are swapped, with heavier hinges on solid and external doors.
- Realign the keeps or strike plate so the latch and any bolts meet their openings squarely rather than catching on the edge.
- Service the multipoint gear and cylinder, and replace the gearbox if it has been damaged by months of forcing.
- Renew the weatherseal and any draught excluder once the door sits correctly, since a seal cannot close a gap caused by a dropped door.
- Ease or trim only as a last resort, sealing any bare timber immediately so it does not take up moisture and swell again.
Signs a door needs attention rather than more force
- You have to lift, pull or lean on the door to turn the key or throw the handle.
- The handle on a uPVC or composite door feels stiff or gritty, a common warning before a multipoint gearbox fails.
- Daylight is visible along an edge of an external door, or a draught runs along the floor.
- Bright scoring on a keep or strike plate showing where the bolt is catching.
- The door drags on the covering, or the bottom edge is scuffed in an arc.
- Timber at the foot of the frame or cill is soft, dark or crumbling when pressed.
- A flat entrance door no longer closes and latches by itself from any angle.
Timber, uPVC and composite doors: what each one needs from a repair
- Timber: repairable almost indefinitely, since rot can be cut out and spliced and the door can be eased and refinished, which is why period and listed properties keep them.
- uPVC: the frame rarely fails but the hinges, gaskets and multipoint gear do, and nearly all faults are adjustment or hardware replacement rather than a new door.
- Composite: a solid core with a moulded skin, very durable, though a damaged skin is hard to repair invisibly and the hardware is still the usual failure point.
- Aluminium: stable and slim framed, common on newer patio and bifold sets, where rollers, gaskets and alignment are the service items.
- Glazing: a misted sealed unit in a door can usually be replaced on its own, without changing the door.
- Ironmongery: hinges, letterplates, cylinders and handles are consumables on a door that is used every day, and replacing them is not a sign the door is finished.
- Cills and thresholds: a failed cill lets water sit against the frame, so repairing the door without fixing the cill just restarts the clock.
Listed buildings, conservation areas, building regulations and fire doors in flats
Repairing a door is normally just maintenance. Replacing one can be regulated, and in the UK the answer depends on the building and on which country you are in. GOV.UK lists replacing windows and doors among the work that might need building regulations approval in England and Wales, while its exempt list covers external doors where less than half of the door is glazed, and it says you do not need to get approval yourself if you use someone registered with a competent person scheme. Scotland runs a different system: the Building (Scotland) Act 2003 is the primary legislation, local authorities grant permission for work through building warrants and issue completion certificates. Northern Ireland has its own Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012 and its own planning statute, the Planning Act (Northern Ireland) 2011.
Heritage controls sit on top of that. If the building is listed you will need listed building consent for any significant works, internal or external, under a regime set by the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990, where section 7 restricts works affecting listed buildings, section 8 provides for consent and section 9 sets out the offences. In a conservation area, a national park or an area of outstanding natural beauty additional restrictions may apply, and a council may have made an Article 4 direction removing permitted development rights. In Scotland, listed building consent and conservation area consent are handled through your planning authority, and Historic Environment Scotland maintains the listed building record. The safe habit is to ask the local planning authority before changing the appearance of a door on a visible elevation.
Flats are the third case. A flat entrance door is often a fire door, and in England the Fire Safety (England) Regulations 2022 place duties relating to fire doors in high-rise residential buildings. If your front door is a fire door, a repair that leaves it failing to close and latch on its own has removed the protection it was fitted to give, so it should be dealt with promptly and by someone who understands what the door is for.
Damp, draughts and the timing of door repairs in Britain
Britain's problem is not a short humid season but a long damp one. Timber doors take up moisture through autumn and winter and give it back slowly, which is why a door eased in February can leave a visible gap by July. If a door only binds in the wet months, the right answer is usually hinge adjustment and a well-maintained finish rather than a plane.
Draughts show themselves in the first cold, windy spell. Before renewing a weatherseal, check the door actually sits square in its frame, because a dropped or bowed door leaves gaps no seal can bridge. Close the door onto a sheet of paper at several points around the frame: where it pulls out with no resistance, the seal is not making contact. Autumn is the sensible time for this work, and it is also the time to look at the bottom of timber frames and cills, since standing water through winter is what turns a small area of soft timber into a frame replacement.
When a door is no longer worth repairing
Most doors are worth repairing, and on a period or listed property repair may be the only acceptable option. Replacement earns its place when the door itself has failed structurally rather than when its hardware has worn out.
- The door is split, delaminating or bowed enough that it no longer closes flat against the stops.
- A hollow core door has a hole or crushed edge that no longer holds hinge or lock screws.
- Rot has spread from the cill up into the frame, or into the structure behind it.
- The door has been eased and trimmed so often that the gaps can no longer be closed.
- Security or insulation is the real aim, in which case a repair was never going to deliver it.
- The hardware, seals and glazing it needs together approach the scope of a new doorset that would fit properly.
- LokalMatch is a straightforward way to get this looked at. You describe the door once, saying whether it is timber, uPVC or composite, what it does and whether it is a flat entrance door, and matched door repair specialists and joiners covering your postcode get in touch directly. The professionals pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out the work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so insurance, references and a written quote are still worth asking for.
Door Repair: frequently asked questions
Why will my uPVC door only lock if I lift the handle hard?
The door has almost certainly dropped on its hinges, so the multipoint bolts no longer line up with their keeps and you are forcing them into place. The fix is to adjust the hinges so the door sits square again, and to realign the keeps. Carry on forcing it and you will break the gearbox, which turns a free adjustment into a lock replacement.
Should I plane a door that sticks in winter?
Not straight away. In Britain timber doors take up moisture through the damp months, so a door eased in winter can leave a gap and a draught in summer. Tighten or adjust the hinges first and check the frame is square. If it still binds after that, take off only what is needed and seal the bare edge immediately so it does not absorb moisture again.
Do I need permission to replace my front door?
Possibly. GOV.UK lists replacing windows and doors among the work that might need building regulations approval in England and Wales, and its exempt list covers external doors where less than half of the door is glazed, so a mainly solid door may fall outside it. Where approval is needed you do not have to apply yourself if you use someone registered with a competent person scheme. Scotland uses building warrants under the Building (Scotland) Act 2003, and Northern Ireland has its own building regulations. If the building is listed you will need listed building consent for significant works, and conservation areas and Article 4 directions can add restrictions.
My flat's front door no longer closes on its own. Does it matter?
It can matter a great deal. A flat entrance door is often a fire door, and its ability to close and latch by itself is the point of it. In England the Fire Safety (England) Regulations 2022 include duties relating to fire doors in high-rise residential buildings. Report it to whoever manages the building and have it repaired by someone who understands fire doors rather than wedging or adjusting it yourself.
Do I need a locksmith or a door repair specialist?
A door repair specialist or joiner deals with the fit: hinges, frame, alignment, weatherseals and the keeps the bolts engage. A locksmith deals with the lock itself, including cylinders, rekeying and lockouts. A useful rule of thumb is that if the lock works perfectly when you lift or push the door, the problem is the door, not the lock.
Sources
- Building regulations approval — GOV.UK
- Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 — legislation.gov.uk
- Doors and windows: planning permission — Planning Portal
- The Fire Safety (England) Regulations 2022 (SI 2022/547) — legislation.gov.uk
- Building standards — Scottish Government
- Planning permission — mygov.scot
- The Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012 (SR 2012/192) — legislation.gov.uk
- Planning Act (Northern Ireland) 2011 — legislation.gov.uk
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of door repair
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Number, size and style of windows or doors
- Frame material and glass options
- Full-frame replacement or insert
- Repairs to rotted framing or sills
- Interior and exterior trim and capping
- Access, including upper floors
How to compare door repair technicians before you hire
- Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
- Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
- Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
- Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
- For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.
Questions to ask door repair technicians before you hire
- Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
- How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
- Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
- How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
- Will your own crew do the installation?
When to call a pro for door repair
- Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
- Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
- A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.
Door repair permits and local rules
Some door repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingGuides about door repair
- ✦
Window & Door Contractors guide
Replacing windows is one of the few home improvements in England and Wales that is notifiable building work nearly every time, and replacing a door often is as well.
Read guide - ✦
Window Installers guide
Hiring a window installer in the United Kingdom is unlike hiring most other trades, because the person fitting your windows is usually also the person certifying that the work meets the Building Regulations.
Read guide - ✦
Window Replacement guide
Replacing the windows in a British home is a purchase with a paper trail attached. The units themselves are made to measure, the contract is often signed at your kitchen table rather than in a showroom, and the job…
Read guide
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