Ceiling Repair
Ceiling Repair near you
A ceiling is the one surface in a British house that is held up purely by its fixings, and it is the one nobody inspects until something shows. Repairs divide into a few recognisable jobs: cracking along the join with the wall, a brown stain that keeps returning through fresh emulsion, a sagging or bulging area in an older property, damage left after a leak, and the ragged opening left behind when a loft hatch, a light fitting or a soil pipe has been moved.
Tell us about your ceiling repair project and we’ll help you find local drywall contractors who serve your area.
Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire
On this page
What is above the plaster decides almost everything about the repair. A modern house has plasterboard fixed to joists and skimmed. A Victorian or Edwardian house is likely to have lath and plaster, which fails by losing its key and therefore sags rather than simply cracks. Some ceilings carry a textured decorative coating. A minority, particularly around older service risers, garages and airing cupboards, may include asbestos insulating board, which is a different regulatory proposition entirely.
Ceilings are also the one interior repair with a genuine safety dimension for the household rather than only for the tradesperson. Wet plaster and saturated board become very heavy, and a ceiling that has begun to bulge can come down without much more warning than it has already given. That is why the first response to a sagging ceiling is to get people out from under it, not to press it to see how soft it is.
What is over your head: lath and plaster, plasterboard, grids and AIB
Naming the construction is the first useful thing a homeowner can do, because it changes who you need and what the repair looks like. In many British houses more than one type is present, since ceilings get replaced piecemeal as rooms are altered over the decades.
- Lath and plaster: narrow timber laths nailed across the joists with gaps between them, with plaster pressed through to form the keys that hold the ceiling up, common in property built before roughly the middle of the last century.
- Plasterboard and skim: board fixed to the joists and finished with a thin coat of finish plaster, the standard in modern British housing.
- Taped and jointed plasterboard: the same board with the seams and screw heads filled and sanded rather than the whole face skimmed.
- Suspended or grid ceilings: tiles dropped into a metal grid, more common in converted or commercial-style spaces than in ordinary rooms.
- Textured decorative coatings over any of the above, which in a pre-2000 property must be identified before it is disturbed.
- Asbestos insulating board, used historically as a lining material, which can look entirely unremarkable and is treated very differently from board.
- Overboarded ceilings, where new plasterboard has been fixed over an older ceiling at some point, leaving two layers and a void between them.
Warning signs on a British ceiling, from hairline cracks to a visible bulge
Ceilings fail slowly and then quickly. Most of what you notice is ordinary and can wait for a convenient moment, but a small number of signs mean the ceiling is losing its hold and should be looked at without delay. The distinction is worth knowing, because the two get treated very differently.
- Hairline cracking along the junction between ceiling and wall, which is usually movement concentrating at the weakest line rather than a structural problem.
- Cracks following straight lines across the ceiling, which often trace the board joints underneath.
- A brown or yellow stain that reappears through fresh paint, which is a water report rather than a decorating failure.
- Nail or screw heads showing as a line of small circular blemishes, indicating fixings that have worked loose.
- A visible sag, bulge or dip, particularly in an older property, which is the sign that matters most.
- Fine debris or dust appearing on the floor or on furniture below without an obvious source.
- A ceiling that flexes or sounds hollow across a wide area rather than a small patch.
- Cracking that appears suddenly after building work nearby, which is worth photographing and dating.
A bulging or water-damaged ceiling: what to do first
Treat a sagging ceiling as a load waiting to be released. Saturated plasterboard and old lath and plaster both become extremely heavy, and lath and plaster in particular can fail across a wide area at once because it is held up by keys that let go progressively. Get people and pets out of the room, keep everyone from underneath it, and move what you reasonably can without standing under the affected area for any length of time.
Do not operate light fittings or switches in a wet area, and if water is coming through around a ceiling rose or a downlight, treat the circuit as compromised until an electrician has seen it. Electrical safety in dwellings in England is covered by Approved Document P of the Building Regulations, and a light fitting that has had water through it is not something to test by switching it on. Stop the water first: the immediate priority is the leak, not the plaster.
Water rarely drips where it enters. It runs along joists, cables and pipe runs before it finds a way through, so the stain is often some distance from the actual defect. That is the main reason ceiling leaks get misdiagnosed and repaired twice, and the reason a competent contractor will want to look in the void above rather than only at the ceiling below.
- Keep out from under a bulging ceiling and do not press it to test it.
- Stop the water before anyone assesses the plaster.
- Leave light fittings and switches in the wet area alone until an electrician has checked them.
- Check the void above, since wet loft insulation holds water long after the ceiling looks dry.
- Let everything dry thoroughly before any repair, rather than sealing moisture in behind a new finish.
- Photograph the damage early, both for the contractor and for any insurance claim.
Stains that keep coming back: reading the damp before repairing the ceiling
A stain that returns through new paint has not been repaired, it has been covered. Government guidance on damp and mould in the home is a practical way to narrow down the cause, because it distinguishes situations that look identical once they reach a ceiling. Traumatic damp is described as leaking water from waste and heating pipes, overflowing baths or sinks, burst pipes or defective water storage vessels inside the building, which covers most first-floor ceiling stains in British houses. Penetrating damp is water that gets into the building from outside due to defects in the walls, roofs, windows or floors, which is the usual story on a top-floor ceiling.
Condensation is the third and it behaves differently. The guidance describes it as moisture generated inside the home cooling and condensing onto colder parts of the buildings, and on ceilings it typically shows as mould growth at the perimeter of an upstairs room, or in a patch corresponding to a gap in the loft insulation above, rather than as a defined stain. The same guidance warns that simply removing surface mould will not prevent the damp and mould from reappearing, so a ceiling with mould rather than a water stain is usually a ventilation, heating and insulation question.
- A defined stain with a distinct edge, often ring-shaped, which points to a discrete leak above.
- A stain directly below a bathroom, which is worth checking at the waste and around the shower tray before the roof is blamed.
- Staining along the line of a valley, chimney or roof junction on a top-floor ceiling.
- Mould at the edges of an upstairs ceiling, which usually indicates condensation and cold spots rather than a leak.
- A patch of mould matching a gap in the loft insulation directly above it.
- A stain that reappears only after heavy or driving rain, which points outside rather than to plumbing.
Asbestos overhead, listed ceilings and when building control is involved
Ceilings are where the asbestos question in British housing most often arises. HSE states that asbestos may be part of any commercial or domestic building which was built or refurbished before the year 2000, that asbestos was widely used until 1999 when it was banned, and it names textured decorative coatings, commonly referred to as Artex, among the materials that may contain it. Regulation 5 of the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012 requires an employer, before work liable to expose employees to asbestos, either to have properly assessed whether asbestos is present, its type and condition, or to assume that asbestos is present and that it is not chrysotile alone, and to work on that basis.
The licensing line runs through ceilings rather than around them, so it is worth understanding. HSE requires a licensed contractor for the higher-risk work, including removing sprayed coatings, work that may disturb pipe lagging, and any work involving loose fill insulation. Asbestos insulating board is the one homeowners most often meet in a ceiling, and work on AIB is licensable where the risk assessment shows it is not short duration work. Textured coatings sit on the other side of the line as non-licensed work, but HSE is clear that all non-licensed and notifiable non-licensed work with asbestos still needs a risk assessment, appropriate controls, and workers who have had the correct level of information, instruction and training.
Two other approvals can apply. In a listed building, section 7 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 restricts alteration that would affect the building's character as one of special architectural or historic interest, and original cornices, ceiling roses and lath and plaster ceilings are exactly that character, so consult the local planning authority before anything comes down. Where the work is structural rather than cosmetic, the route differs across the UK: England and Wales use a building control body, either the local authority's building control department or a private registered building control approver; Scotland requires a building warrant from the council's building standards department, valid for 3 years from the date it was granted; and Northern Ireland works to the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012, which include Part D on structure.
Repair the ceiling, overboard it, or take it down and start again
Small, local damage on a ceiling that is otherwise firmly attached is a repair: cut back to sound material, patch, reinforce the junction and re-skim the area or the whole ceiling for a continuous face. Once significant areas sound hollow, or an old lath and plaster ceiling has begun to sag, patching is no longer the right question, because the fixings holding the rest of it up are the same fixings that have already failed in one place.
Overboarding is the middle answer and it is very common in Britain. New plasterboard is fixed through the old ceiling into the joists and then skimmed, which leaves the original surface in place. It is quicker and far less messy than taking a ceiling down, and it is the standard approach where the existing surface carries a textured coating that is better left undisturbed. The trade-offs are honest ones: the ceiling drops slightly, so cornices, coving, light fittings and the tops of door frames may need attention, and anything wrong in the void above is now sealed in rather than dealt with.
Taking a ceiling down is the thorough option and the disruptive one. It gives access to the joists, the wiring and the insulation, which matters if the leak has been running for a while or you want to improve the loft. It also produces a great deal of heavy waste and fine dust, and in a pre-2000 property it disturbs every historic layer on the way down, which is precisely why the asbestos position has to be settled before anyone starts rather than after the first section comes away.
Downlights, loft insulation and getting quotes through LokalMatch
Most ceiling problems are prevented in the void above. Keep loft insulation dry and evenly laid, because wet insulation stays wet long after a ceiling looks dry and a gap in it will show up sooner or later as a cold patch with mould on it. Check around the cold water tank, the overflow and any pipework in the loft at the start of winter, since a slow overflow is one of the most common causes of a first-floor ceiling coming down. Watch the ceiling below a bathroom in particular: it is the single most likely place in a British house for a stain to appear.
Be careful with downlights. Every one is a hole in the ceiling, and a set of them fitted without thought about the insulation above can create cold spots, or be covered by insulation in a way the fitting was never designed for. That is electrical work in a dwelling, so it belongs with an electrician rather than being tidied up as part of a plastering job.
When you want quotes, LokalMatch takes the details once. Describe the room, the age of the property, what you think the ceiling is made of, whether it is stained, cracked or actually sagging, and whether a textured coating or a known leak is involved, and matched professionals covering your postcode contact you directly. The professionals pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out ceiling repairs, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so compare how each contractor proposes to find the cause and whether they have priced repair, overboarding or replacement.
- Check the loft at the start of winter, particularly around tanks, overflows and pipe runs.
- Keep loft insulation dry, evenly laid and clear of anything that needs ventilation.
- Treat a returning stain as an unfixed leak rather than as a paint problem.
- Do not screw or drill into a textured ceiling in a pre-2000 property without establishing what it is.
- Leave downlights and ceiling fittings to an electrician, especially where insulation is involved.
- Send photographs with your request, since a photograph of a stain or a sag tells a contractor far more than a description.
Ceiling Repair: frequently asked questions
My ceiling is sagging. How urgent is it?
Urgent enough to stop using the room. Saturated plasterboard and old lath and plaster both get very heavy, and lath and plaster can release across a wide area at once because it hangs on keys that fail progressively rather than all at the same moment. Keep people and pets out from underneath, do not press it to see how soft it is, and do not operate light fittings in the affected area. If water is involved, stopping the water comes before anyone assesses the plaster. Get it looked at rather than waiting to see whether it settles.
Why does the stain keep coming back after I paint the ceiling?
Because the cause is still running. Government guidance separates traumatic damp, from leaking waste and heating pipes, overflowing baths or sinks, burst pipes or defective water storage vessels, from penetrating damp, which gets in from outside through defects in the walls, roofs, windows or floors. Water also travels along joists and pipes before it drips, so the stain is often not underneath the defect. Fix the source, let the ceiling dry fully, and then decorate. A firm, dry, stained ceiling can be sealed with a stain-blocking primer; a soft or crumbling one is cut out instead.
Can I just screw a new ceiling over the old one?
Overboarding is a standard British answer and often the right one, particularly where the existing ceiling carries a textured coating best left undisturbed. New plasterboard is fixed through the old ceiling into the joists and skimmed. The things to weigh are that the ceiling drops a little, so coving, cornices, light fittings and door heads may need adjusting, and that anything wrong in the void above is now sealed in. If the leak has not been fixed or the insulation up there is wet, overboarding hides a problem rather than solving it.
How do I know whether my ceiling is lath and plaster?
Age is the first clue, since lath and plaster was standard in British housing before roughly the middle of the last century. It also behaves differently: it tends to sag and bulge rather than crack in straight lines, and cracking on a plasterboard ceiling often follows the board joints. From the loft you can sometimes see the laths and the keys of plaster squeezed between them. Do not go drilling test holes to find out in a pre-2000 property, because a textured coating on the surface would need identifying first.
Is the Artex on my ceiling dangerous to live under?
Undisturbed, it is generally not the problem; disturbing it is. HSE says that if you are sure or strongly suspect that your home contains asbestos materials, it is often best to leave them where they are, especially if they are in good condition and unlikely to get damaged. What matters is not sanding, scraping or drilling it. HSE also advises not to try to repair or remove asbestos materials yourself if you have not had training for non-licensed asbestos work, and says you can seek advice from an environmental health officer at your local authority or council.
Is a crack where the ceiling meets the wall something to worry about?
Usually not on its own. That junction is where movement concentrates, so a hairline crack along it is one of the most common things a British house does, and it is best repaired properly once rather than filled every year. What deserves a professional opinion is different in character: cracking that keeps widening, cracks with a visible step between the two sides, a ceiling that has begun to sag, or new cracking that appeared alongside doors starting to bind or floors going out of level, particularly after building work nearby.
Sources
- GOV.UK: Understanding and addressing the health risks of damp and mould in the home
- HSE: Asbestos frequently asked questions (textured coatings, buildings before 2000)
- The Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012, regulation 5 (identification of the presence of asbestos)
- HSE: Licensed asbestos work and licensed contractors
- HSE: Non-licensed work with asbestos
- Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990, section 7
- GOV.UK: Building regulations approval (England and Wales)
- mygov.scot: Building warrants (Scotland)
- The Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012
- GOV.UK: Electrical safety - Approved Document P (England)
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
Find drywall contractors by city
England
Show 173 citiesHide cities
- Ceiling Repair in Birmingham
- Ceiling Repair in Bournemouth
- Ceiling Repair in Bradford
- Ceiling Repair in Brighton and Hove
- Ceiling Repair in Bristol
- Ceiling Repair in Cambridge
- Ceiling Repair in Coventry
- Ceiling Repair in Derby
- Ceiling Repair in Exeter
- Ceiling Repair in Ipswich
- Ceiling Repair in Kingston upon Hull
- Ceiling Repair in Leeds
- Ceiling Repair in Leicester
- Ceiling Repair in Liverpool
- Ceiling Repair in London
- Ceiling Repair in Luton
- Ceiling Repair in Manchester
- Ceiling Repair in Middlesbrough
- Ceiling Repair in Milton Keynes
- Ceiling Repair in Newcastle upon Tyne
- Ceiling Repair in Northampton
- Ceiling Repair in Norwich
- Ceiling Repair in Nottingham
- Ceiling Repair in Oxford
- Ceiling Repair in Peterborough
- Ceiling Repair in Plymouth
- Ceiling Repair in Portsmouth
- Ceiling Repair in Reading
- Ceiling Repair in Sheffield
- Ceiling Repair in Southampton
- Ceiling Repair in Southend-on-Sea
- Ceiling Repair in Stoke-on-Trent
- Ceiling Repair in Sunderland
- Ceiling Repair in Swindon
- Ceiling Repair in Wolverhampton
- Ceiling Repair in York
- Ceiling Repair in Ashford
- Ceiling Repair in Aylesbury
- Ceiling Repair in Banbury
- Ceiling Repair in Barnsley
- Ceiling Repair in Barrow-in-Furness
- Ceiling Repair in Basildon
- Ceiling Repair in Basingstoke
- Ceiling Repair in Bath
- Ceiling Repair in Bebington
- Ceiling Repair in Bedford
- Ceiling Repair in Beeston
- Ceiling Repair in Birkenhead
- Ceiling Repair in Blackburn
- Ceiling Repair in Blackpool
- Ceiling Repair in Bloxwich
- Ceiling Repair in Bognor Regis
- Ceiling Repair in Bolton
- Ceiling Repair in Bootle
- Ceiling Repair in Bracknell
- Ceiling Repair in Brentwood
- Ceiling Repair in Burnley
- Ceiling Repair in Burton upon Trent
- Ceiling Repair in Bury
- Ceiling Repair in Cannock
- Ceiling Repair in Canterbury
- Ceiling Repair in Carlisle
- Ceiling Repair in Chatham
- Ceiling Repair in Chelmsford
- Ceiling Repair in Cheltenham
- Ceiling Repair in Chester
- Ceiling Repair in Chesterfield
- Ceiling Repair in Clacton-on-Sea
- Ceiling Repair in Colchester
- Ceiling Repair in Corby
- Ceiling Repair in Crawley
- Ceiling Repair in Crewe
- Ceiling Repair in Crosby
- Ceiling Repair in Darlington
- Ceiling Repair in Dartford
- Ceiling Repair in Dewsbury
- Ceiling Repair in Doncaster
- Ceiling Repair in Dudley
- Ceiling Repair in Durham
- Ceiling Repair in Eastbourne
- Ceiling Repair in Ellesmere Port
- Ceiling Repair in Farnborough
- Ceiling Repair in Folkestone
- Ceiling Repair in Gateshead
- Ceiling Repair in Gillingham
- Ceiling Repair in Gloucester
- Ceiling Repair in Gosport
- Ceiling Repair in Gravesend
- Ceiling Repair in Grimsby
- Ceiling Repair in Guildford
- Ceiling Repair in Halesowen
- Ceiling Repair in Halifax
- Ceiling Repair in Harlow
- Ceiling Repair in Harrogate
- Ceiling Repair in Hartlepool
- Ceiling Repair in Hastings
- Ceiling Repair in Hemel Hempstead
- Ceiling Repair in Hereford
- Ceiling Repair in High Wycombe
- Ceiling Repair in Hinckley
- Ceiling Repair in Horsham
- Ceiling Repair in Huddersfield
- Ceiling Repair in Huyton with Roby
- Ceiling Repair in Kettering
- Ceiling Repair in Kidderminster
- Ceiling Repair in Kingswinford
- Ceiling Repair in Kingswood and Fishponds
- Ceiling Repair in Lancaster
- Ceiling Repair in Lincoln
- Ceiling Repair in Loughborough
- Ceiling Repair in Lowestoft
- Ceiling Repair in Macclesfield
- Ceiling Repair in Maidenhead
- Ceiling Repair in Maidstone
- Ceiling Repair in Mansfield
- Ceiling Repair in Margate
- Ceiling Repair in Newcastle-under-Lyme
- Ceiling Repair in Nuneaton
- Ceiling Repair in Oldham
- Ceiling Repair in Paignton
- Ceiling Repair in Poole
- Ceiling Repair in Preston
- Ceiling Repair in Redditch
- Ceiling Repair in Rochdale
- Ceiling Repair in Rochester
- Ceiling Repair in Rotherham
- Ceiling Repair in Royal Leamington Spa
- Ceiling Repair in Royal Sutton Coldfield
- Ceiling Repair in Royal Tunbridge Wells
- Ceiling Repair in Rugby
- Ceiling Repair in Runcorn
- Ceiling Repair in Sale
- Ceiling Repair in Salford
- Ceiling Repair in Scarborough
- Ceiling Repair in Scunthorpe
- Ceiling Repair in Shrewsbury
- Ceiling Repair in Sittingbourne
- Ceiling Repair in Slough
- Ceiling Repair in Smethwick
- Ceiling Repair in Solihull
- Ceiling Repair in South Shields
- Ceiling Repair in Southport
- Ceiling Repair in St Albans
- Ceiling Repair in St Helens
- Ceiling Repair in Stafford
- Ceiling Repair in Stevenage
- Ceiling Repair in Stockport
- Ceiling Repair in Stockton-on-Tees
- Ceiling Repair in Stourbridge
- Ceiling Repair in Tamworth
- Ceiling Repair in Taunton
- Ceiling Repair in Telford
- Ceiling Repair in Torquay
- Ceiling Repair in Tynemouth
- Ceiling Repair in Wakefield
- Ceiling Repair in Wallasey
- Ceiling Repair in Walsall
- Ceiling Repair in Warrington
- Ceiling Repair in Washington
- Ceiling Repair in Watford
- Ceiling Repair in Wellingborough
- Ceiling Repair in Welwyn Garden City
- Ceiling Repair in West Bromwich
- Ceiling Repair in Weston-super-Mare
- Ceiling Repair in Weymouth
- Ceiling Repair in Widnes
- Ceiling Repair in Wigan
- Ceiling Repair in Woking
- Ceiling Repair in Wokingham
- Ceiling Repair in Worcester
- Ceiling Repair in Worthing
- Ceiling Repair in Wythenshawe
- Ceiling Repair in Yeovil
Northern Ireland
Show 7 citiesHide cities
Scotland
Show 10 citiesHide cities
What affects the cost of ceiling repair
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size of the area and ceiling height
- Condition of the walls, trim or siding
- Amount of prep and repairs
- Number of colours and coats
- Paint quality
- Access, including stairwells and upper floors
How to compare drywall contractors before you hire
- Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
- Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
- Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
- In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
- Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.
Questions to ask drywall contractors before you hire
- What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
- How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
- Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
- How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
- What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?
Ceiling repair permits and local rules
Some ceiling repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about ceiling repair
- ✦
Painters & Decorators guide
Painting and decorating covers interior walls and ceilings, woodwork such as skirting boards, architrave and doors, and exterior work on render, masonry, timber joinery and metalwork.
Read guide - ✦
Interior Painting guide
Interior decorating in a British home usually means emulsion on the walls and ceilings and a harder finish on the woodwork: skirting boards, architrave, doors, window boards, and sometimes coving or a stairwell.
Read guide - ✦
Exterior Painting guide
Exterior decorating in Britain is mostly about two things the brochure photographs never show: access and moisture.
Read guide
Ready to get ceiling repair quotes?
Tell us about your ceiling repair project.
Do you offer ceiling repair services?
Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.