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Wallpaper Installation

Wallpaper Installation near you

Wallpaper has come back into Australian homes as a feature wall, a hallway or a whole room, and the quality of the result depends far more on the wall behind the paper than on the paper itself. Paper is thin, and a lining that is uneven, dusty, previously painted in a high-sheen finish or still holding old adhesive will show through every seam. A hanger who spends the first day preparing and the second day hanging is not padding the job.

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New South Wales treats this as its own licensed trade. Decorating is defined there as work involved in the installation of painted or applied decorations such as murals, frescos or wallpaper, and a contractor licence is required for residential building or trade work valued above a set amount in labour and materials including GST. Queensland reaches the same place by a different route: applying wallpaper sits inside the QBCC painting and decorating trade class, alongside applying texture coatings and preparing surfaces.

The complication that belongs to older Australian houses is what is underneath the existing paper. The Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency records asbestos cement flat sheeting used as interior lining before 1990, and notes that panels can be mistaken for plasterboard, particularly if painted or wallpapered. Stripping old paper is exactly the moment that lining gets scraped, wetted and scored, so the age of the house is a question to settle before the first sheet comes off.

Do you need a licensed installer to hang wallpaper in Australia?

There is no single national wallpapering licence, and the answer depends on your state and on what the job is worth. New South Wales lists decorating as a distinct category of building and trade work, describing it as the installation of painted or applied decorations such as murals, frescos or wallpaper, and requires a contractor licence once residential building or trade work exceeds a set value in labour and materials including GST. The qualification path behind that category is a Certificate III in Painting and Decorating.

Queensland does not separate the two trades. The QBCC painting and decorating class expressly covers applying paint or other substances for protective, decorative or technical purposes including colour matching, applying texture coatings, applying wallpaper, and preparing surfaces for those materials. One variant of the class also allows cement render up to a limited thickness, and the other excludes it. A licensee may take on incidental work from another class only below a small set value, and never occupational work such as plumbing or fire protection unless separately licensed.

So the useful questions are the same wherever you live: which state the business is licensed in, which class the licence is, and what the number is — then check that number on the regulator's own public register rather than accepting a logo on a quote. If a business tells you no licence is needed, ask them to explain why, and confirm it against your state building regulator rather than taking it on trust.

Wallcovering types and where each one belongs

Wallcovering is a family of products rather than one material, and the differences matter most in the rooms where Australian houses get humid. A paper that behaves perfectly in a Melbourne bedroom can lift at the seams in a Cairns hallway. Ask which product is being quoted and why it suits that particular room, rather than choosing on the pattern alone.

  • Non-woven papers: dimensionally stable and usually hung by pasting the wall, which makes them the most forgiving option for an uneven or older lining.
  • Traditional pulp and duplex papers: pasted and left to soak so they expand before hanging, which means timing matters and a rushed job shows at the seams.
  • Vinyl and vinyl-coated coverings: more resistant to scuffing and wiping, and often chosen for hallways and children's rooms.
  • Grasscloth and natural fibre coverings: seams are deliberately visible and the material is sensitive to moisture, so they suit dry, low-traffic rooms.
  • Peel-and-stick coverings: a genuine option for renters, but they demand a smooth, fully cured, low-sheen surface and will lift off anything chalky or freshly painted.
  • Murals and panel sets: printed to a fixed drop and sequence, so measuring errors cannot be corrected by ordering one more roll.
  • Lining paper: hung first as a base coat over a patchy or previously textured wall, which is often what makes a difficult wall usable at all.

How a wallpaper installation runs, from wall preparation to the last seam

  • Establish the age of the house and the lining type first, because stripping old paper from an unidentified pre-1990 lining is the step that causes harm.
  • Strip existing paper and remove all residual adhesive, since new paste over old glue is one of the commonest causes of bubbling.
  • Repair and make good: fill fastener holes, gouges and cracks, and address any cause of damp before covering it with paper.
  • Sand and clean the wall so it is flat, sound and free of dust, then check it in raking light rather than looking at it square on.
  • Seal or size the wall as the product requires, which both controls absorbency and lets the paper be repositioned while it is being hung.
  • Set out the first drop from a plumb line rather than from a corner, because Australian corners are rarely as square as they look.
  • Book or soak pasted papers for the stated time so every drop expands the same amount before it goes on the wall.
  • Hang, match the pattern, roll the seams and trim cleanly at the cornice, skirting and architraves, cutting around switches with the power isolated.
  • Agree who removes offcuts, paste residue and packaging, and keep any leftover roll with its batch number for future repairs.

Stripping old wallpaper in a house built before 1990

This is the part of a wallpaper job that deserves a pause. The Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency's product guide describes asbestos cement flat sheeting used as interior lining before 1990, notes that its surface appearance is generally like plasterboard, and records that nine and twelve millimetre panels can be mistaken for plasterboard, particularly if painted or wallpapered. The same entry notes that sheet joints were sometimes covered with cover moulding, wooden battens or Anaglypta paper strips before painting — so a decorative paper strip running down a wall in an older home is not automatically decorative.

SafeWork NSW advises that a home or building built before the late 1980s may contain asbestos. Stripping wallpaper involves soaking, scoring, scraping and sometimes sanding, which is precisely the sort of disturbance the rules are written around. A steam stripper and a scoring tool applied to an unidentified lining is a decision made before anyone knows what the lining is, and it cannot be undone afterwards.

Appearance settles nothing. Only a laboratory test at an accredited facility can confirm what a lining contains, so in a pre-1990 house the era is a reason to test rather than a reason to conclude either way.

  • Nothing that blasts a surface is permitted on asbestos-containing material — not compressed air, and not high-pressure water spray or water jets.
  • High-speed power tools such as angle grinders, sanders, saws and drills may be used on asbestos-containing material only where the tool is enclosed during use, or designed to capture or suppress the fibres and used accordingly.
  • All friable asbestos must be removed by a Class A licensed asbestos removalist, with no homeowner exception.
  • Removal of more than ten square metres of non-friable asbestos also requires a licensed removalist.
  • In New South Wales a homeowner may remove less than ten square metres of non-friable asbestos themselves, or a tradesperson may remove less than ten square metres on the homeowner's behalf.
  • A decorating or painting licence does not authorise asbestos removal, so expect a job to pause while that work is arranged separately.

Humidity, the wet season and choosing when to hang

Wallpaper is hung wet and dries onto the wall, so the air in the room while it dries is part of the job. Australian seasons run the opposite way to the northern hemisphere ones most wallpaper advice is written for: summer is December to February and winter is June to August, and in the northern third of the country the year divides into a wet season and a dry season rather than four.

A hot, dry summer room is the awkward end of the range. Paste can skin over before a drop has been positioned and rolled, and papers dry unevenly where a window throws sun across one part of a wall. Closing the blinds and keeping air moving gently rather than blasting a fan at the wall is the usual answer. A humid summer or a wet-season week is the opposite problem: drying stretches out, seams stay open longer, and paper hung onto a wall that never fully dried will let go later.

Winter and the shoulder seasons are generally the easy windows in the temperate south, with moderate temperatures and enough airflow to ventilate a room without heating it all week. Whenever the job runs, the question worth asking an installer is how they will control the room while the paper dries, and how long before furniture goes back against the wall.

Mould behind wallpaper, ventilation and what the building code requires

Wallpaper that keeps lifting, staining or blooming in the same corner is reporting a moisture problem rather than a hanging fault. NSW Health notes that mould may grow indoors in wet or moist areas that lack adequate ventilation, and that although mould can be found almost anywhere, it needs moisture and nutrients to grow. The health effects it lists include a runny or blocked nose, irritation of the eyes and skin and sometimes wheezing, and it notes that inhaling mould spores may cause an asthma attack in people with asthma. Paper and paste are nutrients, which is why a wall that merely looks tired under paint can look far worse under paper.

Ventilation is where the National Construction Code is specific. The housing provisions require ventilation to habitable rooms, bathrooms, laundries and similar rooms, either through openings with a ventilating area of not less than five per cent of the room's floor area, or by mechanical means. The condensation management provisions set minimum exhaust flow rates of twenty-five litres per second for a bathroom or sanitary compartment and forty litres per second for a kitchen or laundry, and require that exhaust discharge directly or by shaft or duct to outdoor air rather than into a roof space.

For upkeep, NSW Health suggests a mild detergent or a vinegar solution diluted in water for routine cleaning of mouldy surfaces, and notes that where mould is not readily removed and the item cannot be discarded, a diluted bleach solution can be used. On wallpaper this has limits: if mould is growing behind the covering, cleaning the face of it treats the symptom. Find the water first, fix the ventilation, then decide what to do with the paper.

Written scopes, consumer guarantees and finding wallpaper installers on LokalMatch

Australian Consumer Law gives you guarantees on services that a business cannot contract out of: services must be carried out with due care and skill, must be fit for any particular purpose you made known, and must be supplied within a reasonable time when none was agreed. The ACCC states plainly that the basic rights covered by consumer guarantees cannot be taken away by anything a business says or does, and that it is against the law for businesses to mislead consumers about those rights.

Most wallpaper disputes are not legal arguments, though — they are arguments about who was supposed to do what. Put the scope in writing: how many drops and which walls, who strips and disposes of the existing paper, who repairs and seals the wall, whether lining paper is included, who supplies and measures the covering, and what happens to an ordering shortfall if a second batch no longer matches. In New South Wales, where the job forms part of larger home building work above a set contract value, the contract must be in writing, the deposit is capped at ten per cent, progress payments must match the work carried out, statutory warranties run for six years for major defects and two years for other defects, and variations must be in writing and signed by both parties.

LokalMatch is the step that gets you the quotes. You describe the job once — the rooms and walls, the covering you have in mind, whether existing paper has to come off, the age of the house, your postcode and your timing — and installers working in your area contact you directly. Those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive, which is how the service is funded, and describing a job costs a homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not hang wallpaper, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business that responds, so checking licences, insurance and past work remains yours to do.

Wallpaper Installation: frequently asked questions

Does a wallpaper installer need a licence in Australia?

It depends on the state and the value of the work. New South Wales lists decorating as its own category — the installation of painted or applied decorations such as murals, frescos or wallpaper — and requires a contractor licence for residential building or trade work above a set value in labour and materials including GST, with a Certificate III in Painting and Decorating behind it. In Queensland, applying wallpaper sits inside the QBCC painting and decorating trade class. Check the licence number on your state regulator's public register.

Can wallpaper be hung straight over a painted wall?

Sometimes, but not without preparation. The wall has to be sound, clean, flat and matt enough for paste or adhesive to grip, so a high-sheen finish is usually dulled and sealed first, and any chalky or flaking coating has to come off rather than be papered over. Filled repairs need sealing or they absorb differently and show through. On a patchy wall, hanging lining paper first is often what makes the finished result acceptable.

My house is from the 1970s. Is it safe to strip the old wallpaper?

Not until you know what the lining is. The Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency records asbestos cement flat sheeting used as interior lining before 1990, with a surface appearance generally like plasterboard, and notes that panels can be mistaken for plasterboard particularly if painted or wallpapered. SafeWork NSW advises that buildings from before the late 1980s may contain asbestos. Stripping involves soaking, scoring and scraping, so have the lining tested at an accredited laboratory first.

Why are my wallpaper seams lifting or bubbling?

The usual causes are old adhesive left on the wall, an unsealed or overly absorbent surface, inconsistent soaking time between drops, or a room that was too hot and dry while the paper dried. Seams that keep opening in the same place — particularly in a bathroom, laundry or an exterior corner — point to moisture in the wall instead, and that has to be found and fixed before any repapering is worth paying for.

Is wallpaper a bad idea in a humid part of Australia?

It is not ruled out, but the room has to be right. NSW Health notes that mould grows indoors in wet or moist areas that lack adequate ventilation and needs moisture and nutrients to grow, and paper and paste supply the nutrients. The National Construction Code requires bathrooms, laundries and kitchens to be ventilated, with exhaust discharging to outdoor air rather than into a roof space. Get the ventilation working first, and prefer vinyl or non-woven products in the wetter rooms.

How much extra wallpaper should be ordered?

Enough that a second order is never needed, because batches vary and a later batch may not match. The allowance depends on the pattern repeat rather than on a rule of thumb: a large drop-match repeat wastes far more per drop than a plain or random-match product. Ask the installer to measure and specify the quantity before you buy, keep any leftover roll with its batch number, and agree in writing who carries the risk if the order falls short.

Sources

  1. NSW Government: Decorating work licence, including wallpaper
  2. QBCC: Painting and decorating trade licence, including applying wallpaper
  3. Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency: Asbestos cement flat sheeting, interior
  4. SafeWork NSW: Asbestos, era and prohibited tools
  5. NSW Government: Unlicensed asbestos removal limits
  6. NSW Health: Mould fact sheet
  7. National Construction Code: Housing provisions Part 10.6 ventilation
  8. National Construction Code: Housing provisions Part 10.8 condensation management
  9. ACCC: Consumer guarantees on services

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of wallpaper installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and ceiling height
  • Condition of the walls, trim or siding
  • Amount of prep and repairs
  • Number of colours and coats
  • Paint quality
  • Access, including stairwells and upper floors

How to compare wallpaper installers before you hire

  • Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
  • Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
  • Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
  • In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
  • Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.

Questions to ask wallpaper installers before you hire

  • What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
  • How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
  • Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
  • How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?

Wallpaper installation permits and local rules

Some wallpaper installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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