Spray Painting
Spray Painting near you
Spray painting is a method rather than a trade, and choosing it changes the job in three ways at once. It lays a smoother film than a brush or roller ever will, it covers profiled and repetitive surfaces far faster, and it converts the coating into an airborne mist that goes wherever the air goes. That last property is why spraying is the only application method in Australia with a code of practice written specifically for it: SafeWork NSW publishes a code of practice for spray painting and powder coating, offering practical guidance on how to manage the health and safety risks associated with spray painting or powder coating processes.
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For a homeowner the decision usually comes up on doors, louvres, balustrades, fences, ceilings, cabinetry and full-room repaints in an empty house. In each case spraying wins on finish and on speed of application and loses on setup, because masking is most of the labour. A sprayed job where the masking looks quick is a job you will be cleaning overspray off for months.
The second consideration is everything outside the work area. Atomised coating drifts, and in Australian suburbs the things downwind are cars, windows, solar panels, swimming pools, pot plants and a neighbour's washing. Overspray on someone else's property is a problem you cannot undo with an apology, so containment, wind conditions and a conversation with the neighbours belong in the planning, not in the clean-up.
Airless, air-assisted, conventional and HVLP
- Airless spraying pushes coating through a small tip at high pressure and suits large areas such as walls, ceilings, fences and roofs, with high output and heavy overspray.
- Air-assisted airless adds a small amount of air at the tip to soften the pattern, and is the usual choice for joinery and trim where finish matters.
- Conventional air spray atomises with compressed air, gives fine control on small work, and produces the most overspray per litre applied.
- High volume low pressure equipment reduces the mist by spraying at lower pressure, which makes it the practical option for on-site cabinetry and furniture.
- Electrostatic spraying charges the particles so they wrap around metal components, and is a commercial technique used on railings and grilles.
- Powder coating is not liquid spraying at all: the powder is applied electrostatically and cured in an oven, so it is an off-site process for metal components.
- Texture and cement-based spraying uses entirely different equipment again and belongs with rendering rather than painting.
Atomised coating is a respiratory hazard and an ignition risk
Spraying does two things that brushing does not. It reduces the coating to particles small enough to be inhaled deep into the lungs, and it fills an enclosed space with a suspended mist of solvent and pigment. SafeWork NSW publishes a code of practice for spray painting and powder coating precisely because those risks need managed controls rather than general care, and it is the document to ask a contractor about when spraying is proposed inside a building.
Where the product is a two-pack polyurethane, the hazard sharpens. SafeWork NSW describes isocyanates as highly reactive organic compounds that easily become volatile and enter the atmosphere as a vapour, and warns that sensitised workers may suffer allergic reactions including occupational asthma, dermatitis, hives and rashes at very low or brief exposure. Its control guidance runs to eliminating use where practicable, then engineering controls including local exhaust ventilation, automated processes or spray booths, full-face respirators, and a program to correctly fit, instruct on the use of and maintain that equipment, with health monitoring where the risk to health is significant.
Solvent-borne coatings also create a flammable atmosphere in an enclosed space, so ignition sources matter: pilot lights, heaters, switches, extension leads and anything that sparks. Nobody should be in the building during spraying who is not part of the work and properly protected, and that includes pets. Re-entry depends on ventilation and on the product, not on the mist having settled.
Masking and containment: the part that is actually the job
- Everything not being sprayed is either removed from the room or masked and sealed, including switch plates, light fittings, window frames and floor edges.
- Floors are covered completely rather than partially, because a mist settles evenly across a room rather than falling where the gun points.
- Doorways to the rest of the house are sealed with sheeting and taped, and where possible the work area is put under negative pressure so air moves inward.
- Air conditioning returns and ducted vents are sealed, since a running system will distribute overspray through the whole building.
- Outside, vehicles are moved well clear, windows on adjacent properties are closed, and pools, solar panels and clotheslines are covered or cleared.
- Windbreaks and screens are set up on exterior work, and spraying stops when the wind picks up rather than continuing with a wider fan.
- Wet edges and overlaps are planned so the film builds evenly, which is what separates a sprayed finish from a striped one.
- Clean-up includes washing solvent and residue into a contained waste stream rather than onto the ground or into a stormwater drain.
Overspray, neighbours and the environment
Overspray landing on a neighbour's car, roof, solar panels or pool is the most common complaint arising from residential spraying, and it is the hardest to resolve because the damage is on someone else's property and often only visible days later. The practical defences are simple: tell the neighbours before the day, spray only in suitable conditions, screen the work, and stop when the wind changes.
Waste is the other environmental question. Leftover paint, rinse water, solvent and contaminated rags do not belong in a household bin, on the ground or in a stormwater drain, which in most Australian streets runs untreated to a creek, a river or the sea. Every state has an environment regulator, and every council area has a route for household chemical waste, so the correct question to a contractor is where the wash-out and the leftover product will go.
There is also a fire point worth stating. Rags and cloths soaked with oil-based product, particularly linseed-based finishes, can generate heat as they oxidise and have caused fires in bins and on building sites. They are laid out flat to dry or sealed in water in a metal container, not screwed up in a plastic bag in a hot shed.
When spraying is the right call, and when it is not
Spraying earns its setup cost on surfaces that are large, repetitive or profiled. An empty house being fully repainted, a long timber or metal fence, a set of louvred doors, a decorative balustrade, a pressed metal or profiled ceiling and any joinery where a brush mark would be visible are all cases where the finish and the speed justify the masking.
It is the wrong call where the area is small relative to the setup, where the room is occupied or full of contents, where the surrounding property cannot be protected, or where the substrate needs the coating worked into it rather than laid on it. Bare porous timber, chalky old render and heavily patched plaster often benefit from a brushed or back-rolled first coat that pushes product into the surface.
A common compromise is to spray and back-roll: the coating is applied by spray for speed and immediately rolled to work it in and even out the film. It gives better adhesion on porous surfaces than spraying alone and is far faster than rolling everything, which is why it is standard on new plasterboard and on large exterior wall areas.
The defects that come from spraying, and what causes them
- Runs and sags, caused by too much product in one pass or by holding the gun too close to the surface.
- Orange peel texture, where the coating is too thick or the atomisation pressure is too low for the product.
- Dry spray, a rough gritty film that happens when the gun is too far away or when spraying in wind or heat so the particles partly dry in flight.
- Striping and banding, from inconsistent overlap or from losing the wet edge on a large surface in hot weather.
- Overspray contamination on adjacent surfaces, which is a masking failure rather than a spraying failure.
- Poor adhesion on glossy or contaminated surfaces, because spraying lays a film on rather than working it in, so preparation matters more not less.
- Pinholing and craters, usually from oil, silicone or moisture on the surface or in the air line.
Spray Painting: frequently asked questions
Is spray painting better than brush and roller?
It is better at finish and speed on large, repetitive or profiled surfaces, and worse at almost everything else. Setup and masking are most of the labour, and spraying lays a film onto a surface rather than working it into one, so preparation and adhesion matter more, not less. On porous or chalky substrates the usual answer is to spray and immediately back-roll.
Can my house be sprayed while we are living in it?
Only room by room, with the work area sealed off and properly ventilated, and with nobody in that area who is not part of the work. Atomised coating travels, so air conditioning must be isolated and doorways sealed. If the product is a two-pack polyurethane, it belongs in a controlled environment with engineering controls, not in an occupied house.
What happens if overspray lands on my neighbour's car?
It becomes a claim against the contractor, which is one reason public liability cover matters. Prevention is far better: tell neighbours in advance, move or cover vehicles, close windows, cover pools and solar panels, screen the work, and stop spraying when the wind picks up. Overspray is often not noticed for days, so photographing the surrounding property beforehand is a sensible precaution.
Do painters need special training to spray?
There is no separate spraying licence, but there is dedicated guidance: SafeWork NSW publishes a code of practice for spray painting and powder coating covering how to manage the health and safety risks of these processes. Ask a contractor what controls they work to, what respiratory protection they use and how it is fit tested, and how they contain overspray. Those answers tell you more than any certificate.
Is it safe to spray two-pack products at home?
No. Two-pack polyurethane contains isocyanates, which SafeWork NSW describes as highly reactive compounds that become volatile and enter the atmosphere as a vapour, and which can sensitise a person permanently so that later low-level exposure triggers occupational asthma or skin reactions. The required controls are engineering controls such as local exhaust ventilation or a booth, full-face respirators that are fitted and maintained, and health monitoring where the risk is significant.
What should I do with leftover paint and wash-out?
Keep it out of the bin, the garden and the stormwater drain, which in most Australian streets discharges untreated to a waterway. Leftover product, rinse water and contaminated rags go through your council's or state's household chemical waste route, and a professional contractor should be containing wash-out rather than rinsing it onto the ground. Ask where it goes before the job, not after.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of spray painting
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size of the area and ceiling height
- Condition of the walls, trim or siding
- Amount of prep and repairs
- Number of colours and coats
- Paint quality
- Access, including stairwells and upper floors
How to compare spray painters before you hire
- Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
- Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
- Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
- In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
- Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.
Questions to ask spray painters before you hire
- What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
- How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
- Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
- How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
- What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?
Spray painting permits and local rules
Some spray painting work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
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