Exterior Painting
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An Australian exterior repaint is judged by how it looks after several summers, not after the final coat. Ultraviolet light here is punishing, the coastline is long enough that a very large share of the population lives within reach of airborne salt, and the northern third of the country spends months of the year in a humid wet season. None of that destroys a modern coating quickly on its own. What shortens a repaint is preparation skipped underneath it.
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Exterior work also sits squarely inside the licensing rules that interior work can sometimes escape. In New South Wales the contractor licence requirement applies to residential building and trade work including painting above a set value in labour and materials, and the stand-alone internal paintwork exception does not help you on the outside of the building. Queensland licenses the trade through the QBCC whichever surface is being coated.
Then there is what the walls are made of. Fibro — asbestos cement sheeting — was used extensively on Australian exteriors, in flat and corrugated sheeting, eaves linings and cladding, and homes built before the late 1980s may contain it. That single fact removes the pressure washer from the start of the job and the orbital sander from the middle of it, unless the material has been tested and cleared. The age of the house therefore decides the method long before anyone discusses colour.
Licensing for exterior painting, state by state
New South Wales requires a contractor licence for residential building and trade work, painting included, once the work is valued above a set threshold in labour and materials including GST. The exception that exists for stand-alone internal paintwork since 2015 is exactly that — internal — so repainting weatherboards, render, eaves or a roofline falls back under the ordinary requirement, as does painting carried out as part of other home building work. Licensed painting work in New South Wales is tied to a recognised qualification such as a Certificate III in Painting and Decorating.
In Queensland the QBCC painting and decorating class covers applying paint and other substances for protective, decorative or technical purposes, colour matching, texture coatings, wallpaper, and preparing surfaces for those materials. The class comes in two variants, one permitting cement render up to a limited thickness and one excluding render — a distinction worth knowing on an exterior job, where patching failed render is often part of the work. Incidental work from other trade classes is allowed only up to a small set value, and never work reserved for occupational licences.
Other states and territories set their own arrangements, so confirm with your own building regulator rather than applying something you read about New South Wales. Ask for the licence number, ask which class it is, and check it on the public register before you accept a quote.
Fibro, eaves and cladding: why the substrate limits the preparation
Asbestos cement products were used across Australian exteriors, and the Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency's product guide lists them in detail for walls: flat sheeting used externally, corrugated asbestos cement sheeting used as external walling, curved sheeting, planks, battens, corner mouldings, imitation brick and stone cladding, and sandwich and spandrel panels. SafeWork NSW advises that a home or building constructed before the late 1980s may contain asbestos.
Two preparation methods that are otherwise routine on an exterior repaint are the very ones prohibited on this material. High-pressure water spray, water jets and compressed air must never be used on asbestos-containing material, which eliminates the pressure wash most exterior jobs open with. Power tools including sanders and grinders may only be used where the equipment is enclosed during use, or is designed to capture or suppress airborne asbestos and is used according to that design.
- Non-friable, or bonded, asbestos has its fibres held in a bonding compound, which is what asbestos cement sheeting is; friable asbestos can be crumbled to powder by hand pressure when dry.
- A licensed asbestos removalist is required for friable asbestos in any amount, and for more than ten square metres of non-friable asbestos.
- Below that ten square metre threshold in New South Wales a homeowner or a tradesperson acting for them may remove non-friable material, though using a licensed professional for any amount is recommended.
- Weathered and chalking fibro that is already breaking down is more likely to release fibres than sound sheeting, so its condition matters as much as its presence.
- Painting sound asbestos cement sheeting rather than stripping it is generally the lower-risk path, and a coating in good order helps keep the surface stable.
- Only a laboratory test at an accredited facility confirms whether a sheet contains asbestos — the era and the profile are prompts to test, never conclusions.
Timing an exterior repaint: wet season in the north, hot summers in the south
Australian exterior painting works on an inverted calendar, and the enemy is heat and rain rather than frost. Summer runs from December to February, and in the southern states the difficulty is surface temperature and direct sun. A wall that has been absorbing afternoon sun is hot enough that a coating can skin over before it has flowed out and levelled, leaving lap marks and a film that never reaches the build it was meant to have. The working answer is to follow the shade around the building through the day and start early, rather than painting whichever elevation is convenient.
Across northern Australia the year divides into a wet season and a dry season instead of four. Exterior painting belongs in the dry. Working through the wet means contending with rain arriving on freshly coated surfaces, humidity that stretches recoat intervals well past the tin's stated times, and conditions that encourage mould to establish on new work before it has fully cured.
In the temperate south, the shoulder seasons — autumn from March to May and spring from September to November — are usually the most forgiving, with moderate temperatures and less intense sun. Winter, June to August, remains workable in much of the country but brings short days, heavy morning dew on southern elevations and much slower drying, so a crew may get far fewer usable hours out of a day than the same crew would in February.
The order of work on an exterior repaint
- Confirm the age of the building and the cladding type first, and test anything uncertain, because this decides whether washing and sanding are even available.
- Wash down to remove salt, dust, mould, algae and chalked coating — by a method suited to the substrate, not automatically by high-pressure water.
- Remove failed and flaking coating using the safest method the surface allows, keeping wet methods in mind for pre-1970 paint films.
- Carry out repairs before coating: rotten or split timber, cracked render, failed sealant at window and door junctions, and open gaps at junctions and end grain.
- Treat any mould or algae rather than coating over living growth, which simply reappears through the new film.
- Prime bare timber, repairs and any bare metal with a primer matched to that substrate, since a general-purpose undercoat is not a rust-inhibiting or a tannin-blocking primer.
- Apply the finish coats at the spread rate and recoat times the manufacturer states, working around the sun rather than through it.
- Protect the garden, paving, pool surrounds and neighbouring property, and agree in advance who handles washings, waste and the final clean-up.
Ultraviolet light, salt and mould: making the coating last
Three things age Australian exterior paint, and they attack different elevations. Ultraviolet light is the first, and in the southern hemisphere the north-facing and west-facing walls take the heaviest load — which is worth knowing before committing a deep, saturated colour to exactly those elevations, since strong colours show fading and chalking soonest. Those walls will reach their next repaint before the rest of the house does.
Salt is the second, and it does not respect the waterfront. Airborne salt settles on surfaces well back from the beach, accelerating corrosion of fixings, flashings and fasteners and working at the coating from the surface inward. A periodic freshwater wash-down does more for a coastal repaint than any other single act of maintenance, and it costs nothing but a hose and an afternoon.
Moisture is the third, and in humid districts mould and algae are usually why a wall looks tired long before the coating has actually failed. Washing, not repainting, is often the correct response. The maintenance that genuinely extends a repaint is unglamorous: check sealant joints, window and door junctions and exposed end grain each year, because these fail first and let water in behind the film, where it lifts paint off the substrate from the back.
Signs an exterior needs repainting rather than washing
- Chalking: a fine powder that comes off on your hand when you rub the wall, meaning the binder at the surface has broken down under ultraviolet light.
- Fading that is obvious on the northern and western elevations while the southern side still looks close to the original colour.
- Flaking, peeling or lifting, particularly around windows, doors and other junctions where water has found a way behind the film.
- Cracking that has opened through the coating to the substrate, as distinct from surface crazing that is still sound underneath.
- Bare or greyed timber showing through, and any exposed end grain drinking up water.
- Rust staining running from fixings, which means the fastener is failing beneath the paint rather than merely marking it.
- Mould or algae that returns quickly after washing, which suggests moisture reaching the surface from somewhere rather than simple surface growth.
Comparing exterior quotes, your consumer rights and using LokalMatch
Under Australian Consumer Law a service must be supplied with an acceptable level of care and skill, must be fit for any particular purpose you made known, and must be supplied within a reasonable time where none was agreed. The ACCC is explicit that these rights cannot be taken away by anything a business says or does. Weather is part of what makes a time reasonable in this trade, so agree what happens to the schedule when rain takes a week out of the job rather than leaving it to become a grievance later.
Because exterior quotes vary so much in what they cover, compare the preparation rather than the total. NSW guidance on quotes is worth borrowing anywhere in the country: a quote should include all the work to be done and list all the materials to be used, briefs should be identical across the contractors you ask, site-cleaning responsibility should be clear from the start, and all variations to a contract must be in writing and signed by both parties.
Finding those contractors is what LokalMatch does. Describe the job once — the elevations, the cladding, the age and condition of the house, your postcode and your preferred timing — and painters covering your area get in touch with you themselves. The businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they take; it costs a homeowner nothing to describe a job. LokalMatch does not perform painting, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone who responds, so verifying licences and insurance stays with you.
Exterior Painting: frequently asked questions
Can my painter pressure wash the house before painting?
Not if the cladding might contain asbestos. High-pressure water spray, water jets and compressed air must never be used on asbestos-containing material, and asbestos cement sheeting was widely used on Australian exteriors as flat and corrugated sheeting, eaves linings, planks and cladding. SafeWork NSW advises that buildings constructed before the late 1980s may contain asbestos. Where there is doubt, have the material tested at an accredited laboratory before a washer is switched on.
When is the best time of year to paint the outside of an Australian house?
In the temperate south, autumn (March to May) and spring (September to November) are usually easiest, with mild temperatures and less intense sun than summer. Summer works if the crew follows the shade around the building and starts early rather than coating walls in full afternoon heat. Winter is workable but brings dew, short days and slow drying. In northern Australia, exterior work belongs in the dry season rather than the wet.
Does exterior painting need a licence when interior painting sometimes doesn't?
In New South Wales, yes — that is exactly the distinction. The exception introduced in 2015 applies to stand-alone contracts for internal paintwork only, so exterior work above the set value in labour and materials still requires a contractor licence, as does any painting forming part of other home building work. Queensland licenses painting and decorating through the QBCC regardless. Check your own state's regulator and verify the licence number on its register.
Why does one side of my house fade so much faster than the others?
In the southern hemisphere the north-facing and west-facing walls receive the most direct sun and so carry the heaviest ultraviolet load, which fades pigment and chalks the surface of the coating. Deep, strong colours show it first. If you want a dark colour it will hold its appearance longer on southern and eastern elevations, and you should expect the hot walls to need recoating before the rest of the house.
My walls are chalky to the touch. Does that mean they need repainting?
Chalking means the binder at the surface has broken down under ultraviolet light, and it does usually signal that a repaint is due. It also means preparation matters more than usual, because a new coating applied over loose chalk is bonding to powder rather than to the wall. Washing the surface down to remove chalk is part of the job, using a method suited to the substrate rather than automatically a pressure washer.
Who removes asbestos if the painter finds it mid-job?
A licensed asbestos removalist is required for any amount of friable asbestos and for more than ten square metres of non-friable asbestos. In New South Wales a homeowner or a tradesperson acting for them may remove less than ten square metres of non-friable material, although using a licensed professional for any amount is recommended. A painting licence does not authorise asbestos removal, so expect the job to pause while that work is arranged separately.
Sources
- NSW Government: Painting work licence requirements
- QBCC: Painting and decorating licence, including the render variants
- Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency: Wall products that may contain asbestos
- SafeWork NSW: Asbestos, friable and non-friable, and prohibited methods
- NSW Government: Unlicensed asbestos removal limits
- LeadSmart NSW: Safe preparation and removal of old paint
- NSW Government: Getting quotes for building and renovation work
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees that apply to services
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of exterior painting
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size of the area and ceiling height
- Condition of the walls, trim or siding
- Amount of prep and repairs
- Number of colours and coats
- Paint quality
- Access, including stairwells and upper floors
How to compare painters before you hire
- Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
- Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
- Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
- In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
- Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.
Questions to ask painters before you hire
- What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
- How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
- Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
- How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
- What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?
Exterior painting permits and local rules
Some exterior painting work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about exterior painting
- ✦
Painters guide
Painting an Australian house is mostly a preparation job with a colour at the end of it. Harsh ultraviolet light, long hot summers, salt air along a very long coastline and, in the north, a humid wet season all work on…
Read guide - ✦
Interior Painting guide
Interior painting is the one part of the Australian painting trade that can be booked in any month of the year, because the weather outside stops mattering once the windows are shut.
Read guide - ✦
Commercial Painting guide
Commercial painting is the same craft as domestic painting carried out under a completely different set of constraints.
Read guide
Services related to exterior painting
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