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Siding is an American word. In Australia the trade is external wall cladding, and on a house the everyday terms are weatherboards, fibro or fibre cement, and metal or composite cladding. Most Australian homes are brick veneer, so cladding work here is often a mixture: a weatherboard cottage being reclad, a fibro house whose sheets are failing, a brick veneer home getting a clad upper floor or a lightweight extension, or a gable and eaves lining being replaced after storm or water damage.
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The National Construction Code deals with this in Section 7 of the ABCB Housing Provisions, which sets deemed-to-satisfy provisions for timber and composite wall cladding alongside roofing and guttering, while metal wall cladding is dealt with in Volume Two, where it is satisfied by designing and constructing to AS 1562.1. Part 7.5 covers timber cladding including weatherboards and profiled boards, fibre-cement and hardboard cladding boards, and fibre-cement, hardboard and plywood sheet cladding, with referenced standards including AS/NZS 2908.2 and AS/NZS 1859.4.
Three Australian realities decide the specification. Anything built or renovated before the 1990s may be asbestos cement, which changes the job completely. On designated bushfire prone land, the assessed bushfire attack level governs what the external walls may be made of. And near the coast, the fixings and the finish will fail long before the boards do if the wrong ones are specified.
Cladding materials on Australian houses
- Timber weatherboards, splayed or profiled, still the character material on cottages, Queenslanders and older coastal housing, and repairable board by board.
- Fibre cement weatherboard planks, which imitate timber profiles without the same maintenance demand and are made to AS/NZS 2908.2 or ISO 8336.
- Fibre cement and plywood sheet cladding, used flat with express joints or battens on contemporary designs, with plywood and hardboard sheet covered by AS/NZS 1859.4.
- Metal wall cladding in corrugated and trapezoidal profiles, which the Code satisfies by designing and constructing to AS 1562.1, and which is common on extensions, sheds and modern rural and coastal homes.
- Composite and reconstituted boards, which behave differently from solid timber at joints and cut ends and need the manufacturer's detail followed exactly.
- Render and texture coatings applied over a lightweight substrate, which Australians call rendering rather than stucco and which is a different trade from cladding.
- Asbestos cement sheet and cover strips, the original fibro, on houses built or renovated before the 1990s.
What the Code covers, and what it leaves to the manufacturer
Section 7 of the ABCB Housing Provisions sets deemed-to-satisfy provisions for metal sheet roofing, roof tiles, gutters and downpipes, and timber and composite wall cladding. Metal wall cladding is not in that section: the Code points to Volume Two, where a metal wall cladding satisfies the performance requirement if it is designed and constructed in accordance with AS 1562.1. Other construction methods can be used if they meet the performance requirements, which is the route most proprietary cladding systems take.
That matters practically. If your cladding is a proprietary product outside the deemed-to-satisfy provisions, compliance rests on the manufacturer's installation instructions and their evidence of suitability, not on a generic trade practice. Ask for the installation manual for the specific product and check that what is being proposed on your wall, particularly at corners, junctions, openings and the bottom edge, is what that manual actually shows.
Ask also about what sits behind the cladding. Sarking-type materials are covered by AS 4200.1, and the arrangement of the wrap, any drainage cavity and the flashings at windows and doors is what keeps the wall dry once wind-driven rain gets past the face, which it will. Cladding is a screen, not a seal, and a system that has no plan for the water that gets behind it will fail regardless of the material.
Installing weatherboards and cladding to the Housing Provisions
The Housing Provisions are specific about weatherboards in ways that are easy to check on site. Splayed timber weatherboards must lap by at least 30 millimetres for hardwood, Cypress and treated pine, 20 millimetres for Western Red Cedar and 25 millimetres for Baltic Pine. Splayed boards take one fixing at each stud or equivalent framing member, and for wind classes N1 to N3 the maximum stud spacing is 600 millimetres. Fibre cement boards use their own specified nails or screws at comparable spacings. A lap that has been stretched to save a board, or fixings that have missed the studs, is a defect you can see from a ladder.
Ground clearance is the requirement most often breached, and it is the one that causes rot years later. The bottom of the cladding must be at least 150 millimetres above finished ground level in the general case, at least 100 millimetres in low rainfall intensity areas or in sandy, well-drained ground, and at least 50 millimetres above impermeable paved or concreted surfaces. Where there is a suspended floor, the cladding must also extend at least 50 millimetres below the bearer or the lowest horizontal part of the floor framing.
Sequence and detail do the rest. Expect the wall to be opened up and inspected, any damaged framing replaced, the wrap and flashings installed and lapped so water is directed outwards at every horizontal junction, then the cladding fixed from the bottom up with the specified lap, then the corners, window and door trims and the bottom edge detailed. Ask what happens if rot, termite damage or unexpected asbestos is found once the old cladding comes off, and get that answer in the contract rather than discovering it as a variation.
Asbestos, termites, bushfire and salt: what goes wrong with Australian cladding
Asbestos first, because it determines whether the rest of the job is even possible as described. SafeWork NSW records asbestos cement in roofing, guttering, downpipes, eaves, cover strips, flashings and fencing, typically from the 1940s to the late 1980s. High-pressure water, power tools and compressed air must never be used on it, which rules out pressure-washing a fibro wall before painting, and cutting or sanding it is worse. A licensed asbestos removalist is required for any amount of friable asbestos and for more than 10 square metres of non-friable bonded material, with a licensed professional recommended for any amount. Recladding a fibro house is an asbestos removal project with cladding attached, and should be quoted that way.
Termites are the second Australian constant. The Code treats steel, aluminium and other metals, concrete, masonry, fibre-reinforced cement, and naturally resistant or preservative-treated timber as not subject to termite attack, which is a real advantage of fibre cement and metal cladding on susceptible sites. Where a termite management system exists, there is a durable notice fixed in a prominent location recording the system and the recommended inspection frequency, and any work that disturbs the barrier at the base of a wall needs the system reinstated.
Then fire and salt. On designated bushfire prone land, a Class 1 house and its associated Class 10a structures and decks must be designed and constructed to reduce the risk of ignition from a bushfire, with the deemed-to-satisfy path being construction to AS 3959 at the bushfire attack level assessed for the site, or the NASH standard for steel framed construction in bushfire areas. The assessed level constrains external wall materials and the gaps and junctions where embers enter, so have it established before ordering cladding. Near the coast, salt attacks fixings, flashings and coatings first, so the fastener and finish specification deserves as much attention as the board itself.
Approvals and licensing for recladding
Cladding work is squarely inside the licensing system in most states, and New South Wales says so directly: cladding replacement is listed as general building work, for which a contractor licence is required above the Home Building Act threshold, with substantial penalties for unlicensed work. Queensland issues roof and wall cladding as a specific QBCC trade class covering selection and installation of cladding, flashing penetrations through roofs and walls, and external flashings, soffits and fascias, and requires a licence for building work above its threshold. Western Australia registers builders through the Building Services Board, supported by Building and Energy, under the Building Services (Registration) Act 2011. Victoria registers building practitioners and licenses trades by class.
Whether you need a building approval is a separate question with a local answer. Replacing cladding like for like is often treated as maintenance, but changing the wall build-up, altering openings, affecting the structure, working on a heritage-listed or character-controlled property, or building on bushfire prone land can all bring it into the approval system. Councils also apply their own character and streetscape controls in some areas, which can dictate what the front of the house may be clad in. Ask your council or a registered building surveyor for your address.
LokalMatch is where the search starts rather than where the decision is made. You describe the cladding job once, including the existing material, the approximate wall area, the age of the house, and whether the site is bushfire prone or coastal, and matched cladding contractors and builders contact you directly. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out cladding work, does not set or quote prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so confirming licences, insurance and asbestos arrangements before work starts is your responsibility.
Looking after cladding in the Australian climate
- Keep soil, mulch, garden beds and new paving below the cladding, since raising the ground destroys the clearance the Code requires and starts rot at the bottom board.
- Repaint on the schedule the coating manufacturer specifies, and expect the north and west walls to need it sooner because they take the most ultraviolet.
- Wash down salt-exposed walls, fixings and flashings with clean water periodically where the house is near surf.
- Check laps, cut ends and the tops of boards at windows and doors, which is where water gets in and where paint films fail first.
- Never pressure-clean, sand, scrub or grind cladding on a house built or renovated before the 1990s until asbestos has been ruled out.
- Keep the base of the wall clear so any termite inspection zone stays visible, and keep the durable notice for a termite management system where it was fixed.
- Have storm-damaged boards replaced rather than patched, since a cracked board lets water into framing that costs far more than the board.
Contracts, statutory cover and consumer guarantees for cladding work
Recladding is residential building work, so above your state's threshold the statutory scheme applies. In New South Wales, home building compensation cover must be in place for contracts above the scheme threshold, a written contract is required above the contract threshold, and the deposit cannot exceed 10 per cent of the price on either small or large jobs. In Queensland, the Home Warranty Scheme covers residential construction work above its threshold with the contractor paying the premium based on the insurable value. In Victoria, domestic building insurance is required above the contract threshold, the builder must take it out, and you must be given the certificate of currency before any deposit or other money is taken, with cover responding to structural defects for six years and non-structural defects for two.
The Australian Consumer Law guarantees enforced by the ACCC apply on top of all of that and cannot be contracted away: the work must be carried out with acceptable care and skill, it must be fit for any purpose you made known, and it must be supplied within a reasonable time where none was agreed. The cladding products themselves are goods with their own guarantees, so it is worth writing down who deals with a product failure as distinct from an installation failure.
Keep the product name and specification, the manufacturer's installation manual, the paint or coating system used, any bushfire attack level assessment, any asbestos clearance documentation, and the certificate of statutory cover together with the contract. On a wall, defects tend to reveal themselves in the second or third wet season, and that file is what decides whether you have a claim or an argument.
Siding: frequently asked questions
What do Australians call siding?
Cladding, or more specifically weatherboards for the horizontal board style, fibro or fibre cement for sheet and plank products, and metal cladding for profiled steel. If you ask for siding you will usually be understood, but quotes, product literature and the Building Code all use cladding, and the National Construction Code addresses timber and composite wall cladding and metal wall cladding as separate things.
How do I know if my cladding contains asbestos?
Age is the first indicator: houses built or renovated before the 1990s may contain asbestos cement, and it was commonly used in wall sheeting, cover strips, eaves and roofing from the 1940s to the late 1980s. You cannot tell by looking, so have it identified before anyone cuts, drills, sands or pressure-washes it. Removal of any friable material, and of more than 10 square metres of bonded material, requires a licensed removalist.
How far above the ground does cladding have to finish?
The Housing Provisions require at least 150 millimetres above finished ground level in the general case, at least 100 millimetres in low rainfall intensity areas or sandy, well-drained ground, and at least 50 millimetres above paved or concreted surfaces. Where there is a suspended floor, the cladding must also extend at least 50 millimetres below the bearer. This is the clearance that new paving and raised garden beds most often destroy.
Can I clad over the existing weatherboards instead of removing them?
It is sometimes proposed, but it hides the condition of what is underneath, adds thickness that has to be resolved at every window, door and corner, and can bury a problem such as damaged framing or asbestos sheet. Ask how the condition of the existing wall and framing was established, how the new system is fixed back to the studs, and how water that gets behind the new face is drained out.
I am on bushfire prone land. Does that limit my cladding choices?
Yes. A house and its associated structures and decks on designated bushfire prone land must be designed and constructed to reduce the risk of ignition, with the deemed-to-satisfy route being construction to AS 3959 at the bushfire attack level assessed for the site, or the NASH standard for steel framed construction in bushfire areas. As the assessed level rises it constrains external wall materials and the gaps and junctions where embers can enter, so get the assessment before choosing a product.
Does recladding need a licensed builder?
Above your state's contract value threshold, yes. New South Wales lists cladding replacement as general building work requiring a contractor licence above the Home Building Act threshold, and Queensland issues a specific roof and wall cladding trade licence and requires a QBCC licence for building work above its threshold. Check the licence and its class on the state regulator's own public register before you pay a deposit.
Sources
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 7.5 Timber and composite wall cladding
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 7.1 Scope and application of Section 7
- NCC Volume Two Part H1 Structure (metal wall cladding, AS 1562.1)
- NCC Volume Two Part H7: Construction in designated bushfire prone areas
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 3.4 Termite risk management
- SafeWork NSW: Asbestos
- NSW Government: General building work licences (cladding replacement)
- QBCC: Roof and wall cladding licence
- Consumer Affairs Victoria: Domestic building insurance
- Western Australian Government: Builders' registration
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of siding
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size of the area and the height of the walls
- Material chosen
- Removal of the existing material
- Repairs needed to what's underneath
- Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
- Trim, corners and openings to work around
How to compare siding contractors before you hire
- Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
- Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
- Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
- For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
- Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.
Questions to ask siding contractors before you hire
- What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
- Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
- How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
When to call a pro for siding
- Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
- Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
- Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney
Siding permits and local rules
Some siding work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
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