Rats
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Most rat problems in Australian suburbs are roof problems. The animal that has taken up residence above a bedroom ceiling is usually an agile climber that got there along a branch, a vine, a downpipe or a fence line, and the noise people describe is something heavy moving across the plasterboard after dark. The animal itself is rarely seen, which is why the first conversation with a technician is about routes rather than about sightings.
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The second half of a rat problem is the yard. Fruit trees dropping fruit, an open compost bin, a chicken run, a bird aviary, a woodpile, a disused shed and a neighbour's uncovered pet food all support a population that the house merely shelters. Dealing with the inside while leaving the outside untouched produces a short quiet period and then a return.
There is a health dimension as well, and it is best handled by precaution rather than alarm. NSW Health's guidance for households dealing with rodents notes that mice, rats and other rodents may carry infections that can spread to people, both by direct contact and through contact with soil, food or water the animals have contaminated, and it sets out simple protective measures for cleaning up.
Reading the evidence a rat leaves behind
- Droppings noticeably larger than a mouse's, often concentrated in a roof void or along a beam.
- Heavy movement across a ceiling after dark, distinct from the lighter, faster scratching of a mouse.
- Greasy smear marks where an animal has squeezed repeatedly past the same joist, pipe or roof batten.
- Gnaw damage to hard surfaces — timber edges, plastic conduit, irrigation line and cable sheathing.
- Burrows near a compost bin, a chicken run, a shed base or a retaining wall.
- Fruit taken from a tree overnight with the skin left behind, or eggs disappearing from a backyard coop.
- Runs worn through long grass or ground cover, following a fence line or the base of a wall.
How they are getting into the roof
- Branches and climbing plants that touch or overhang the roof, which function as a bridge.
- The gap where the roof sheeting or tiles meet the fascia, particularly on an older or re-roofed house.
- Unscreened eave vents, whirlybirds and exhaust terminations.
- Service penetrations for air-conditioning lines, solar cabling and plumbing vents.
- Damaged or lifted ridge capping and broken tiles after a storm.
- Fence lines and pergolas that lead directly to a wall and then upward.
- An adjoining roof in a terrace or townhouse, where the neighbour's problem becomes yours through the shared structure.
What a rat job should cover
- A roof void inspection with a torch, mapping droppings, runs and nesting material rather than glancing from the manhole.
- An external survey from ground level and roof level, identifying every route and every opening.
- Proofing work: screening vents, closing roof-to-fascia gaps, sealing penetrations and cutting back vegetation.
- Removal of the outdoor food supply — fallen fruit, uncovered compost, spilled poultry feed and accessible bins.
- Control placed along the mapped runs, in secured stations, with a written record of every location.
- Collection and disposal of carcasses, which is part of the service rather than the household's problem.
- A return visit to confirm activity has stopped and to remove the stations rather than leave them out indefinitely.
Sensible precautions around rat activity
NSW Health advises households dealing with rodents to wear gloves, to wear waterproof protective clothing and footwear, and to cover cuts and abrasions with a waterproof dressing. It notes that infections carried by mice, rats and other rodents can spread through direct contact with the animals or through contact with soil, food or water they have contaminated, and that ideally anyone pregnant or immunosuppressed should not be the person handling carcasses.
Two Australian additions are worth making. Anything eaten by a rat should be thrown out rather than washed, including fruit and vegetables from the garden that show gnaw marks. And any chewed electrical cable found in a roof void is a job for a licensed electrician, not something to inspect closely or repair yourself.
Making the garden a poor place to live
- Pick up fallen fruit daily in season, which is the single biggest change most households can make.
- Use a sealed compost system rather than an open heap, and keep food scraps out of an open bay.
- Store poultry and bird feed in metal containers and clean up spilled feed each evening.
- Keep woodpiles and stacked materials raised off the ground and away from fences and walls.
- Prune branches and vines back so nothing reaches the roofline or the eaves.
- Keep bins closed, and hose out the bin area occasionally so it stops smelling like a food source.
- Clear rubbish and disused equipment from under decks and sheds, which is prime harbourage.
When rat calls spike in Australia
Autumn brings the first wave, as cooling weather pushes animals from the garden into the roof and the subfloor. This is the most productive time for proofing, because routes are being used every night and are therefore easy to identify.
Summer brings a different pattern, especially in dry inland conditions: animals come in looking for water rather than shelter, which is why leaking taps, air-conditioning condensate and pet water bowls matter more than people expect. Fruiting season adds to it in any suburb with citrus, stone fruit or figs in the backyards.
Heavy rain and flooding produce their own spike, as burrows and drainage lines are inundated and animals move to higher and drier ground, which usually means the nearest building. After a big weather event, it is worth looking in the roof void even if nothing has been heard.
Rats: frequently asked questions
Something is running across my ceiling at night. Is it a rat or a possum?
Weight and rhythm are the giveaway. A possum is heavy and slow, lands with a thump, and often makes a guttural hissing or coughing call; it also tends to leave at dusk and return before dawn, which you can hear as two distinct events. A rat is lighter, faster, and produces continuous scurrying and gnawing rather than thumps. The distinction matters enormously because a possum is a protected native animal and cannot be dealt with the way a rat can. If you are not sure, get somebody to look in the roof void before anything is set.
Do I need to do anything outside, or is the roof enough?
The outside is usually where the problem is fed. Fallen fruit, an open compost heap, spilled poultry feed, an accessible bin and a pile of timber against the fence support a population that simply uses the roof as a bedroom. Treating indoors alone gives you a quiet few weeks and then a return, because the resources that made the property attractive are still there. Deal with the food and the harbourage first, close the routes second, and control what is left third.
Is there a health risk to my family?
There is one worth taking precautions about. NSW Health notes that mice, rats and other rodents may carry infections that can spread to people, either through direct contact with the animals or through contact with soil, food or water they have contaminated. Its practical advice is to wear gloves, waterproof protective clothing and footwear, and to cover cuts and abrasions with a waterproof dressing, and it suggests that anyone pregnant or immunosuppressed should not handle carcasses. Throw out any food a rodent has reached rather than washing it.
Something has died in the wall and the smell is unbearable. What can be done?
Unfortunately, not a great deal quickly. If the carcass can be located and reached, removing it is the only real fix, and a technician with an inspection camera can sometimes find it through a ceiling or a cavity. If it cannot be reached, the smell will fade over a period of weeks, and ventilation, an odour-absorbing product and patience are what is left. It is the strongest practical argument for trapping over baiting in a roof void or a wall: a trap keeps the animal somewhere you can find it.
My neighbour has chickens and I have rats. Is that connected?
Very possibly. A poultry run with feed available during the day and spillage overnight is one of the most reliable rat food sources in a suburban street, and so is an aviary, an open compost heap or a neglected fruit tree. The unwelcome implication is that a fix confined to your property may not hold. The conversation is easier if it is framed around feed storage and spill clean-up rather than blame, since covered feed bins and evening tidying solve most of it without anyone having to give up their chickens.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of rat control
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Type of pest or animal
- How widespread the problem is
- Size of the home and number of units affected
- Treatment method
- Number of follow-up visits
- Exclusion work, such as sealing gaps or installing barriers
How to compare exterminators before you hire
- Choose a company that inspects first and identifies the pest before recommending treatment.
- Ask whether they are licensed to apply pest control products in your area.
- For wildlife like raccoons, squirrels or birds, look for a company that uses humane removal and seals entry points.
- Ask how they'll keep children, pets and food safe during and after treatment.
- Get the treatment plan in writing, including follow-up visits and what happens if the problem comes back.
Questions to ask exterminators before you hire
- What pest do you think this is, and how did you identify it?
- Are you licensed to apply pest control products in my area?
- What products or methods will you use, and are they safe around children and pets?
- How do I need to prepare my home before treatment?
- How many visits are included, and what happens if the problem comes back?
- Will you seal entry points so the problem doesn't return?
When to call a pro for rat control
- Droppings, gnaw marks or scratching noises in walls or the attic
- Bites or small blood spots on bedding that could point to bed bugs
- A wasp or hornet nest near a door, deck or play area
- An animal living in the attic, chimney or under a deck
Rat control permits and local rules
Some rat control work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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