Locksmiths
Locksmiths near you
Locksmiths handle the oldest layer of home security and the one people only think about twice: when it fails, and when they are standing outside at eleven at night. The trade covers lockouts and broken keys, rekeying a house after a move or a separation, fitting deadlocks and window locks, repairing and aligning door hardware, securing sliding doors and security screens, restricted key systems where keys cannot be copied at a kiosk, and opening and servicing safes.
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It is also the security trade where the licensing question bites hardest, because a locksmith can open doors. Western Australia's published scheme is explicit that lock and safe work sits inside its security licensing system, and the class covering safes, vaults and prescribed locks requires a trade-qualified locksmith. Other states run their own arrangements through their police or fair trading bodies, so the right question is always which licence, issued by which state.
Through LokalMatch you describe the doors, the locks and what has gone wrong, add your postcode, and locksmiths who work that area contact you; they pay for the leads they receive. LokalMatch performs none of the work, publishes no price list and makes no assessment of the businesses that respond, which is why confirming a licence and agreeing the call-out terms before someone drives out still matters.
Locked out: what to do before you call, and what a straight call-out looks like
First, slow down for two minutes. Check every other door and window, including the laundry and the garage internal door, and check whether anyone else in the household has a key nearby. If a key has snapped in the cylinder, stop turning the stub, because pushing it deeper turns a five-minute extraction into a cylinder replacement. If you are locked out in extreme heat with a child, a pet or a person at risk inside a closed-up car or house, that is a triple zero call, not a trade call.
- Ask on the phone for the total: call-out, after-hours loading if it applies, and what happens to the charge if the lock cannot be opened and has to be replaced.
- Give your postcode and ask for a realistic arrival window rather than a vague soon, and ask whether the person attending is local.
- Ask for the business name, the licence details where your state issues one, and the name of the person who will attend.
- Expect to prove you belong there: a licence, a lease, a rates notice or mail in your name at that address, and expect a locksmith to refuse the job politely if you cannot.
- Get the amount confirmed before work starts, in writing by message if you can, and ask for an itemised receipt at the end.
- Be wary of an operator who will not name a figure, gives no business address, or arrives in an unmarked vehicle with no identification.
- If the quote changes dramatically on arrival, you are allowed to decline and send them away before any work begins.
Lock types on Australian homes and what each one is good for
- Entrance sets with a keyed knob or lever: convenient, but the latch alone offers little resistance without a deadlock behind it.
- Deadbolts and deadlocks: a solid bolt thrown into the frame, and the single biggest improvement on most timber front doors when the strike is reinforced too.
- Mortice locks: fitted into the edge of the door, common on older and solid-core doors, repairable by a locksmith long after the original brand has vanished.
- Sliding door locks: patio and stacker doors need a purpose-made lock plus attention to the track and to lifting the panel out of its rails, which is how many are actually defeated.
- Security screen locks: the three-point locks on screen doors carry a lot of the load in Australian homes, since the screen is often the only thing closed on a warm night.
- Window locks: keyed locks on accessible windows, chosen with an eye to how you would get out in a fire and where the key lives.
- Restricted key systems: keys that can only be cut by the authorised locksmith against your signature, useful where keys have gone missing or a property is shared.
- Safes: fixed to structure, rated for different contents, and serviced or opened by locksmiths qualified for that class of work.
When to rekey or replace: the moments worth booking a locksmith
- You have just moved in, and you have no idea how many keys to your new house are in circulation.
- A key has been lost or stolen, or a relationship or share-house arrangement has ended badly.
- Tradespeople, cleaners, agents or house-sitters have held keys you cannot now account for.
- The key needs jiggling, lifting or a shoulder against the door to work, which means the lock or the door alignment is failing, not that you need a technique.
- The cylinder turns freely without engaging, or the key comes out at any position rather than only when locked.
- There is visible damage around the cylinder or strike, or the door frame has split at the strike plate.
- Salt air, coastal weather or years of sun have corroded external hardware to the point it binds.
- You have a keyed lock but no deadlock on the front or back door, or accessible windows with no locks at all.
Rekeying, repairing or replacing a lock: choosing between them
Rekeying changes the pins inside an existing cylinder so old keys stop working. It is the right answer when the hardware is sound and the problem is who holds keys rather than how the lock performs, and it has a useful side benefit: a locksmith can usually key several locks around the house to one key while they are there, which ends the habit of leaving the back door unlocked because the key is annoying.
Repair suits hardware that is good quality but worn or misaligned. A great deal of what feels like lock failure is actually the door: timber that has swollen through a humid summer, hinges that have dropped, or a strike plate that was never quite in the right place. A locksmith who adjusts the door and the strike often solves a problem that a new lock would not have fixed.
Replacement is the call when the cylinder is damaged or worn out, when the lock has been forced, when parts for an obsolete set are no longer available, or when you are upgrading from a latch-only entrance set to a deadlock. It is also the moment to think about the whole opening rather than the lock alone, since a strong lock in a weak frame with long screws missing from the strike is not a strong door.
Locksmith licensing in Australia: a state question with real teeth
Western Australia publishes the clearest example. WA Police Licensing Services states that private security activities in the state are governed by the Security and Related Activities (Control) Act 1996 and the Security and Related Activities (Control) Regulations 1997, and its Security Installer licence covers installing, maintaining and repairing security equipment controlled by the Act. The classes are split by equipment, with safes, vaults and prescribed locks in one class and other prescribed locks in another. For the safes, vaults and locks class, WA requires the applicant to be a trade-qualified locksmith; the class covering security doors requires a pre-licence test. A self-employed locksmith operating in their own name also needs a Security Agent licence, because supplying those services is licensed separately from performing them.
Elsewhere the arrangements differ and are administered by different bodies: New South Wales lists the security industry among its licences and points to NSW Police, Victoria has a Private Security Act 2004 in force, and Queensland licenses security providers under its own legislation. Because the classes and the words do not match across the borders, never assume that a licence held in one state authorises work in another, and never accept a trade association badge as a substitute for a licence.
Before anyone starts, ask for the licence number and the class, check it against that state's police or fair trading register, and note that a company licence is not proof the individual attending is licensed. This is a trade where the honest operators expect the question.
Lockout charges that balloon, and what the law lets you do about it
The classic complaint against a small number of operators follows a pattern: a low figure quoted on the phone, an arrival with no identification, a claim that the lock must be drilled and replaced rather than picked, and a total on the doorstep that bears no relation to the call. Because this happens when people are stressed, tired and outside, the defence has to be set up in the first phone call, not at the door.
The Australian Consumer Law backs you up afterwards. The ACCC says consumer guarantees are automatic when you buy goods and services, that services must be carried out with an acceptable level of care and skill, and that these basic rights cannot be taken away by anything a business says or does. Drilling out a lock that a competent locksmith could have opened, or replacing hardware that did not need replacing, is a care-and-skill question.
The ACCC also sets out what you can seek. For a major problem with a service, one that creates an unsafe situation or that has a serious problem, or several smaller problems, that would have stopped you buying it had you known, you can cancel the contract and get a refund, or keep it and pay a lower price that accounts for the problem; for a minor problem the business must fix it free of charge. Keep the receipt, photograph the old hardware if you can, and take the complaint to your state or territory consumer protection agency if the business will not resolve it.
Keeping locks working: seasonal movement, coastal corrosion and key hygiene
- Lubricate cylinders with a dry graphite or a lock-specific product rather than a general oil spray, which attracts dust and grit and eventually gums the mechanism.
- Rinse external hardware with fresh water and dry it if you live within reach of salt spray, where corrosion is the main enemy of a lock.
- Expect doors to move through the year: timber swells in humid summer weather and shrinks in the dry, so a door that binds in February and is loose in July needs the strike adjusted, not forced.
- Keep sliding door tracks clean and the rollers adjusted, because a panel that lifts in its track defeats the lock no matter how good the lock is.
- Replace a key that is visibly worn before it snaps, and stop using a key that has to be wiggled, since that wear is being transferred into the cylinder.
- Check window locks and security screen locks once a year, and make sure everyone in the household knows where the keys for keyed window locks are kept in case of fire.
- Do not leave a spare key anywhere outside; give one to a neighbour or use a lock box fitted where a locksmith recommends instead.
Locksmiths: frequently asked questions
Will a locksmith open my house without proof I live there?
They should not, and one who does is a reason to worry about the next house. Expect to show identification and something linking you to the address, such as a licence, a lease, mail or a rates notice. If your identification is inside the house, say so on the phone; a locksmith can often work with a neighbour vouching for you, an agent confirming a tenancy or documents produced once you are inside, but they are entitled to refuse if they are not satisfied.
Is rekeying cheaper and quicker than replacing the locks?
Usually, when the existing hardware is in good condition, because the locksmith changes the pins in the cylinders you already have rather than fitting new hardware. It is also a good moment to have several doors keyed alike. Replacement makes more sense when the lock is damaged, worn out or obsolete, or when you are upgrading from a latch-only entrance set to a proper deadlock.
Do locksmiths in Australia have to be licensed?
It depends on the state, which is why you should ask. In Western Australia, lock and safe work sits within the Security and Related Activities (Control) Act 1996 licensing scheme, and the class covering safes, vaults and prescribed locks requires the applicant to be a trade-qualified locksmith. New South Wales directs security industry licensing to NSW Police, Victoria has a Private Security Act 2004, and Queensland licenses security providers separately. Ask for the licence number and class and check it with that state's regulator.
Can a locksmith fit a smart lock, and does it need an electrician?
Most residential smart locks are battery powered and fit into the same preparation as a conventional lock, so a locksmith can handle them and will also tell you whether your door and frame suit one. It becomes electrical work when a device needs mains power, a new circuit or anything done at the switchboard: that has to be done by a licensed electrician, and in Western Australia an electrical contractor must give you an electrical safety certificate within 28 days for work other than maintenance.
What is a restricted key system and is it worth it for a house?
It is a keyway where blanks are controlled, so copies can only be cut by the authorised locksmith against an authorised signature rather than at any kiosk. For a standard family home it is often more than is needed, but it earns its keep where keys have gone missing, where a property is shared or tenanted, or where you want a record of exactly how many keys exist.
The front door has dropped and now the key barely turns. Is that the lock?
Often not. Doors move with the seasons and hinges sag over time, so the bolt stops lining up with the strike and every turn of the key fights the frame. A locksmith will check the door, the hinges and the strike before condemning the lock, and an adjustment there frequently fixes what felt like a failing cylinder. If the key itself is worn or bent, replace it at the same time.
Sources
- WA Police Force: Types of security licences
- WA Police Force: Security licence application requirements
- WA Police Force: Licensing Services (Security)
- NSW Government: Licences and credentials
- Victoria: Private Security Act 2004
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees
- ACCC: Repair, replace, refund, cancel
- Government of Western Australia: Having electrical work done
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of locksmith
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Number of cameras, sensors or devices
- Wired or wireless installation
- Monitoring and subscription fees
- Running cables through finished walls or ceilings
- Size and layout of the home
- Integration with other smart home or network equipment
How to compare locksmiths before you hire
- Choose an installer who looks at your home in person and explains where cameras, sensors or access points should go.
- Ask whether monitoring is included, whether it's optional and what the contract length and cancellation terms are.
- Find out whether you'll own the equipment or lease it, and whether it works with other systems.
- For hardwired systems, make sure any electrical work is done by a licensed electrician.
- Ask how they'll set up passwords, apps and network security, and make sure you get the admin access.
Questions to ask locksmiths before you hire
- Will I own the equipment, or is it leased or tied to a contract?
- Is monitoring required, and what are the cancellation terms?
- Where will the cameras point, and will they capture my neighbours' property?
- Who will have access to the video and the account?
- Will this work with my existing Wi-Fi, locks or smart home devices?
- What warranty covers the equipment and the installation?
Locksmith permits and local rules
Some locksmith work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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