Home Automation
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Automation is worth paying for when it removes a hazard or a daily chore, and worth almost nothing when it only adds an app. That is the test to apply to every item on a proposal, and it separates the automations Australian households keep using after the novelty wears off from the ones that end up switched back to manual within a year.
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The clearest example of the first kind is the blind. Australia regulates corded internal window coverings because children have died in them: under the Competition and Consumer (Corded Internal Window Coverings) Safety Standard 2014, an installer must install to the packaging instructions, attach a label with their name and contact details, fit cleats or cord guides correctly, leave the warning labels in place, and ensure loose cords cannot form loops exceeding 220 millimetres at heights below 1,600 millimetres, with a cleat never installed lower than 1,600 millimetres above floor level. Motorising a blind removes the cord entirely, which turns a safety obligation you have to keep managing into one that no longer exists.
The second thing that separates a good automation project from a bad one has nothing to do with the devices. It is whether the house still works for somebody who has never heard of the system: a guest, a tenant, a house-sitter, a tradesperson, or the person who buys the place. An automated house that cannot be operated by hand is not a smart house, it is a house with a single point of failure and a password.
Motorised blinds and the corded window covering standard
Two Australian mandatory standards sit over corded internal window coverings. Supply and labelling are covered by the Trade Practices (Consumer Product Safety Standard — Corded Internal Window Coverings) Regulations 2010, and installation by the Competition and Consumer (Corded Internal Window Coverings) Safety Standard 2014. The installation standard requires the installer to follow the packaging instructions, attach a label showing their name and contact details, install cleats or cord guides correctly, leave warning labels and swing tags in place, and make sure loose cords cannot form a loop exceeding 220 millimetres at any height below 1,600 millimetres. A cleat used to secure a cord may not be installed lower than 1,600 millimetres above floor level.
The warning wording on the cord tag says what the standard is actually about: young children have died by wrapping loose curtain and blind cords or chains around their necks, and the tag directs people to secure cords with cord guides or wind them around a cleat, and to move cots and furniture away from window covering cords. The standard applies in domestic dwellings, though not to installation in caravans, mobile homes or boats.
Motorisation sidesteps the whole problem because there is no cord to secure, which is why it is the one automation worth doing first in a house with small children. If you are motorising only some windows, the rest still have to meet the standard, and the installer is still required to leave the labels and cleats in place on those.
Which automations actually survive in an Australian household
- Anything that removes a physical hazard, with corded blinds the clearest case and a heavy roller door the next.
- Anything that happens whether or not you remember it: a pool pump, a hot water timer, irrigation, a bathroom exhaust fan that runs on after the light goes off.
- Anything that runs while nobody is home, which is most of the value in a hot climate and none of the fun.
- Anything that is genuinely hard to reach, such as high louvres, clerestory windows and skylights in a raked ceiling.
- Anything that makes the house safer to leave empty for a fortnight, which matters over the Christmas break.
- Very little that requires a phone to be unlocked first, because a switch on the wall will always be faster.
The things that must never lose their manual override
There is a category of automated device where the failure mode is not inconvenience. An automated gate or garage door is the way vehicles and often people get in and out. An automated lock is the way the house is exited in a fire. Automated pool equipment sits behind a barrier that has its own rules. In each case, the question to ask the integrator is not what happens when it works, it is what a person does when it does not, with no power, no internet and no phone.
The answer has to be physical: a key, a release handle, a manual crank, a switch on a wall. Ask to be shown the override on each device at handover, ask where the key or release tool is kept, and write it down for the house. A release handle nobody can find in the dark is not an override.
This is also the reason to be careful about automating a device that was already the failure point. A garage door with a tired spring does not become more reliable when an app can open it; it becomes a heavy door with one more thing that can go wrong in front of it. Fix the mechanism first, automate second.
Automating what you have, or replacing it
Most Australian houses arrive at automation with existing equipment: split systems with infrared remotes, roller blinds on chains, a garage door with a rolling-code remote, a pool pump on a mechanical timer, and a hot water system on a controlled tariff. Each can be brought into a system either by adding a controller alongside it or by replacing the device with one that speaks the protocol natively.
Adding a controller is cheaper and reversible, and it is usually right for equipment with years of life left. It is also less reliable, because an infrared blaster or a relay bolted onto someone else's product has no feedback: the system believes the air conditioner is off because it sent an off command, not because it checked. Native devices know their own state, which is why automations built on them behave predictably and automations built on blasters drift.
The sensible rule is to replace at end of life and adapt in the meantime. Motorised blinds are the exception worth bringing forward, both for the cord safety reason and because retrofitting a motor into an existing roller blind is often more expensive and less satisfactory than replacing the blind outright.
The four outages an automated house has to survive
- A power failure, where the question is what state each device returns to when power comes back, and whether anything reverts to an unsafe or expensive default.
- An internet failure, where anything that depends on a remote service stops and anything running locally keeps going.
- A failure of the vendor's cloud service while your own connection is fine, which behaves like an internet failure but is invisible from inside the house.
- The vendor withdrawing the product or the service entirely, which is not an outage but a permanent loss of function in hardware you still own.
- A phone lost, replaced or wiped, which is a surprisingly common way for households to lose control of devices nobody wrote the account details down for.
- A household change, where the person who set everything up moves out and takes the accounts with them.
Automation ages faster than the house it is in
A house lasts generations, a blind lasts decades, a motor lasts many years, and the software controlling both is on a much shorter cycle. That mismatch is the structural problem in home automation and it cannot be designed away, but it can be designed around by keeping the long-lived parts dumb and independent.
In practice that means the motor, the actuator, the valve and the wiring should be standard items that another installer can source and replace, while the cleverness lives in a controller that can be swapped without touching them. A system where the blind motor only works with one discontinued hub is a system where a hub failure becomes a window covering replacement.
Ask the integrator directly: if you are unavailable in five years, what does the next person need to know, and which parts of this can they buy off a shelf? An answer that names generic components and open protocols is worth more than a slicker demonstration.
Handover: making the house usable by someone who has never seen it
- A one-page sheet in a kitchen drawer: how to turn each automated thing on and off by hand, and where the release keys and tools live.
- Accounts in a household identity rather than one person's personal email, so the system survives someone moving out.
- Written credentials and recovery details stored where a partner or executor can reach them, not only in one phone.
- Labelled devices and a simple as-built plan showing what is automated and where the controllers are.
- A rule that every automated function has a physical control that still works with the system powered down.
- A conversation with your agent or conveyancer before sale about which devices transfer, which accounts must be reset, and who removes the old owner's access.
Home Automation: frequently asked questions
Are motorised blinds safer than corded ones?
They remove the hazard the Australian mandatory standards were written for. Corded internal window coverings are regulated because children have died in blind and curtain cords, and the installation standard requires cleats or cord guides to be fitted correctly, warning labels to be left in place, and loose cords not to form loops exceeding 220 millimetres below 1,600 millimetres, with cleats never fitted below 1,600 millimetres above floor level. A motorised blind has no cord to secure. If you motorise only some windows, the remaining corded ones still have to meet the standard.
What happens to my automated house in a blackout?
That depends entirely on how each device was specified, which is why it is a question to ask before installation rather than during the next storm. The things to establish are what state each device returns to when power is restored, whether anything defaults to an unsafe or expensive setting, and what the manual override is on every gate, door, lock and pump. Ask to be shown each override physically at handover and write down where the release keys and tools are kept, because a release handle nobody can find in the dark is not an override.
Should I retrofit motors to my existing blinds or replace them?
Replacement is usually the better answer for roller blinds. Retrofitting a motor into an existing blind is often more expensive than it looks, the result can be noisier and less reliable, and the fabric and tube you are keeping are frequently the oldest parts of the assembly. For other equipment the calculation reverses: adding a controller to a split system, pool pump or garage door that has years of life left is cheap and reversible, and the right time to buy a natively connected device is when the old one fails.
Is home automation cabling something my electrician can do?
Anything touching mains wiring is licensed electrical work in every Australian state and territory. Fixed communications cabling is regulated separately again, and installers generally need a cabling registration for it rather than an electrical licence, so confirm with your installer which registration covers the data side and which licence covers the mains side before work begins. Many individuals hold both and many hold only one. Ask for the specifics rather than accepting an assurance that it is all covered.
What happens if the manufacturer shuts the service down?
You keep the hardware and lose the function, which is the single largest long-term risk in home automation. The way to limit it is architectural: keep the long-lived parts of the installation generic, so the motor, actuator, valve and wiring are items another installer can source and replace, and keep the cleverness in a controller that can be swapped without disturbing them. Ask the integrator what the next person would need to know in five years if the integrator were unavailable, and prefer an answer naming standard components over a more impressive demonstration.
We are selling. What do we do about the smart home?
Decide early which devices transfer with the house and which you are taking, make that consistent with the contract's inclusions, and plan the account handover rather than improvising it at settlement. Devices tied to a personal account need to be factory reset and removed from that account, otherwise the new owner inherits hardware they cannot control and you retain access to a house that is not yours. Leave the one-page manual-operation sheet behind, and tell your agent which items are staying so the marketing does not create a different impression.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of home automation
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Number of cameras, sensors or devices
- Wired or wireless installation
- Monitoring and subscription fees
- Running cables through finished walls or ceilings
- Size and layout of the home
- Integration with other smart home or network equipment
How to compare home automation installers before you hire
- Choose an installer who looks at your home in person and explains where cameras, sensors or access points should go.
- Ask whether monitoring is included, whether it's optional and what the contract length and cancellation terms are.
- Find out whether you'll own the equipment or lease it, and whether it works with other systems.
- For hardwired systems, make sure any electrical work is done by a licensed electrician.
- Ask how they'll set up passwords, apps and network security, and make sure you get the admin access.
Questions to ask home automation installers before you hire
- Will I own the equipment, or is it leased or tied to a contract?
- Is monitoring required, and what are the cancellation terms?
- Where will the cameras point, and will they capture my neighbours' property?
- Who will have access to the video and the account?
- Will this work with my existing Wi-Fi, locks or smart home devices?
- What warranty covers the equipment and the installation?
Home automation permits and local rules
Some home automation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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