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Attic Conversions

Attic Conversions near you

Attic conversions are less common in Australia than in countries with steep pitched roofs and habitable lofts by tradition, and the reason is structural rather than cultural. Most Australian houses built since the 1970s have prefabricated roof trusses. A truss is a designed, triangulated frame in which every member is working, including the webs that cross the middle of what you were hoping would be a bedroom. You cannot cut one out and hope. Removing or altering trusses means replacing the roof structure with something else that carries the same loads, which is a major structural job rather than a fit-out.

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Older houses framed conventionally, with rafters, ceiling joists and a ridge, are far better candidates, because the space is already open and the work becomes strengthening rather than replacing. The first thing a competent contractor will do is put their head into the roof space and tell you which of the two you have, and that visit should happen before anything else is discussed.

The second test is geometry. The Code gives attics their own height rule, more generous than the standard one but still demanding: Part 10.3 requires a habitable room in an attic to have a height of not less than 2.2 metres over at least two-thirds of the floor area, and when that floor area is calculated any part with a ceiling height under 1.5 metres is excluded. Then there is the staircase, which has to come from somewhere in the floor below and is usually the hardest planning problem in the whole project.

How to tell whether your roof space is convertible at all

  • Trusses with diagonal webs crossing the space mean a conversion is a re-roofing project, not a lining project.
  • Traditional rafters, ceiling joists, a ridge board and struts landing on internal walls indicate a far more promising starting point.
  • A roof pitch shallow enough that you cannot stand upright along the ridge will rarely satisfy the attic height rule once a floor and lining are added.
  • Ceiling joists sized to hold a ceiling will not carry a floor, so a new floor structure is almost always part of the job.
  • A location on the ground floor plan where a staircase can land without destroying a room is as decisive as anything happening in the roof.
  • Existing services, water heaters, ducting or a solar inverter in the roof space all have to be relocated, and that cost is easy to overlook.

The attic height rule in Part 10.3, and how the floor area is measured

Part 10.3 of the Housing Provisions sets out room heights, and clause 10.3.1(1) gives the general rule: not less than 2.4 metres in a habitable room other than a kitchen, 2.1 metres in a kitchen, and 2.1 metres in a bathroom, laundry, sanitary compartment, corridor, passageway or garage. Stairways, ramps and landings require 2.0 metres measured vertically above the nosing line.

Sloping ceilings are treated separately. For a habitable room in an attic, the requirement is a height of not less than 2.2 metres for at least two-thirds of the floor area. For other habitable rooms with a sloping ceiling the figure is 2.4 metres over two-thirds of the floor area, and for non-habitable rooms it is 2.1 metres over two-thirds.

The measuring rule matters as much as the height. Clause 10.3.1(2) provides that when computing the floor area for the sloping ceiling requirement, any part with a ceiling height of less than 1.5 metres is not included. That has a useful consequence: the low triangles under the eaves are excluded from the calculation rather than counting against you, which is why a well-shaped attic can pass a test that seems impossible at first glance.

Why the trusses decide the budget

A prefabricated truss is engineered as a whole. The top chords carry the roof, the bottom chord carries the ceiling and ties the two rafters together against spreading, and the webs transfer load between them. Cutting a web, or removing a bottom chord to open up the space, does not simply weaken the truss; it changes the way loads travel through the entire roof and can push a spreading force out onto walls that were never designed to resist it.

Converting a trussed roof therefore means designing and installing a replacement structure, typically steel or engineered timber beams that pick up the roof loads and a new floor system that carries the occupied space. Volume Two clause H1D6 lists the deemed-to-satisfy route for framing, referencing AS 1684.2, AS 1684.3 and AS 1684.4 for residential timber framing, AS 1720.1 and AS 1720.5 for timber design, AS 4100 for steel, AS/NZS 4600 for cold-formed steel and the NASH Standard for steel framing. Any solution outside those documents is a performance solution, which needs an engineer and a building surveyor's acceptance.

This is the point where many attic projects stop, and stopping is a legitimate outcome. A dormer and a staircase in a conventionally framed roof is a renovation. Replacing a trussed roof is closer to adding a storey.

From roof-space inspection to finished attic room

  • An inspection of the roof structure to establish whether it is trussed or conventionally framed, before any design fees are spent.
  • A measured survey of the roof space, plotting where the 1.5 metre and 2.2 metre contour lines fall across the floor.
  • Locating the staircase on the floor below, since its footprint, headroom and landing usually dictate the whole layout.
  • Engineering design for the new floor structure, any beams replacing roof members, and any dormer openings.
  • Building approval through your state's pathway, with the structural documentation attached.
  • Structural work first, then weatherproofing any new openings, then services, insulation and lining.
  • Fit-out, balustrades and the final inspections required in your state.

The staircase: geometry, headroom and the barrier at the top

  • Part 11.2 limits a flight to not more than 18 and not less than 2 risers, which sets the minimum vertical distance a single flight can cover.
  • For private stairs, Table 11.2.2a gives risers of 115 to 190 millimetres and goings of 240 to 355 millimetres, with the 2R plus G relationship falling between 550 and 700 millimetres.
  • Headroom over a stairway, ramp or landing must be not less than 2.0 metres measured vertically above the nosing line, which is frequently the binding constraint in a roof conversion.
  • Treads need a slip resistance classification of not less than P3 or R10 in dry conditions, or P4 or R11 where they will be wet, tested to AS 4586.
  • Barriers under Part 11.3 are required where it is possible to fall 1 metre or more, so the opening at the top of the new stair will need one.
  • A barrier must be not less than 1 metre above the floor generally, and not less than 865 millimetres above the nosings on a stairway or ramp.
  • Barrier openings must not allow a 125 millimetre sphere to pass through, and the gap between a barrier and a vertical edge is limited to 40 millimetres.

Converting the roof compared with building out or up

The honest comparison is not attic against nothing; it is attic against the alternatives for the same money. A roof conversion keeps the building footprint unchanged, which is valuable on a small block and in a council area with tight site coverage controls, and it leaves the garden alone. Against that, it is constrained by a geometry you did not choose, it swallows a substantial chunk of the floor below for a staircase, and in a trussed roof it carries structural costs that a ground-floor extension does not.

A useful test is to price the staircase and the structure first, before any thought is given to finishes. If those two items alone approach what a modest ground-floor addition would cost, the attic is probably the sentimental choice rather than the rational one. If the roof is conventionally framed, the pitch is generous and there is an obvious place for a stair, the arithmetic often goes the other way.

Attic Conversions: frequently asked questions

Can I convert a roof with prefabricated trusses?

Not by cutting them. Every member of a truss is working, including the webs that cross the middle of the space, and removing or altering them changes how loads travel through the whole roof. A trussed roof can be converted, but only by designing and installing a replacement structure that carries the same loads, which is major structural work with engineering documentation and building approval. Have someone look in the roof space before you spend anything on design.

What ceiling height does an attic bedroom need?

Part 10.3 of the Housing Provisions requires a habitable room in an attic to have a height of not less than 2.2 metres for at least two-thirds of the floor area. That is lower than the 2.4 metres required in an ordinary habitable room other than a kitchen, which is why attics are treated separately. Measure the finished heights after the new floor structure and any lining are allowed for, not the raw dimensions in the roof space today.

Do the low parts under the eaves count against the height requirement?

No, and this is the clause that makes many conversions viable. Clause 10.3.1(2) provides that when computing the floor area for the sloping ceiling requirement, any part with a ceiling height of less than 1.5 metres is not included. The very low triangles at the edges are therefore excluded from the calculation rather than dragging the two-thirds figure down, so a room that looks unworkable on a section drawing can still comply.

How much space does the new staircase take?

More than people expect, because the geometry is prescribed. Part 11.2 allows not more than 18 and not less than 2 risers in a flight, and for private stairs sets risers of 115 to 190 millimetres and goings of 240 to 355 millimetres, with 2R plus G between 550 and 700 millimetres. Headroom over the stair must be at least 2.0 metres above the nosing line. Together those rules usually consume a significant part of a room on the floor below.

Will I need a barrier at the top of the stairs?

Almost certainly. Part 11.3 requires a continuous barrier where it is possible to fall 1 metre or more, which describes the opening at the head of an attic stair. The barrier must be not less than 1 metre above the floor, or not less than 865 millimetres above the nosings on the stair itself, its openings must not allow a 125 millimetre sphere to pass through, and the gap between the barrier and a vertical edge is limited to 40 millimetres.

Sources

  1. NCC 2022 ABCB Housing Provisions Part 10.3: Room heights
  2. NCC 2022 ABCB Housing Provisions Part 11.2: Stairway and ramp construction
  3. NCC 2022 ABCB Housing Provisions Part 11.3: Barriers and handrails
  4. NCC 2022 Volume Two Part H1: Structure

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of attic conversion

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and scope of the project
  • Structural changes, such as moving or removing walls
  • Plumbing, electrical and HVAC work involved
  • Finishes and materials chosen
  • Design, drawings and permits
  • Condition of the existing house once it's opened up
  • Access to the site and the timeline

How to compare general contractors before you hire

  • Look for a contractor who has finished projects similar in size and type to yours, and ask to see them.
  • Get a written contract with the scope, the payment schedule, the timeline and how changes will be priced.
  • Ask who will manage the job day to day and how often you'll get updates.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage, and that their trades are licensed where required.
  • Compare quotes on the same scope, and ask what each one leaves out.
  • For structural changes, make sure an engineer or designer is involved where needed.

Questions to ask general contractors before you hire

  • Who will pull the permits, and who will be there for inspections?
  • Which parts of the job will you do yourselves, and which will go to subcontractors?
  • How do you handle change orders and unexpected problems once walls are open?
  • What is the payment schedule, and what is each payment tied to?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship, and is it in writing?
  • Can I speak with a few of your recent clients?

Attic conversion permits and local rules

Some attic conversion work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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