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A sprinkler system is judged by how evenly it wets the ground, and almost nothing you can see from the patio tells you whether it does. Heads that look identical can be throwing very different amounts of water, a zone that appears to be running fine can be misting away a third of its output, and a controller can be programmed perfectly for a system whose hydraulics were wrong from the day it was installed.

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That is why the measurement matters. EPA's guidelines for irrigation audits on WaterSense labeled new homes require systems to achieve a lower quarter distribution uniformity of 65 percent or greater, measured on the largest spray-irrigated area using the catch-can method, and require that station or zone pressure be within plus or minus 10 percent of the manufacturer-recommended operating pressure for the emission device in use, tested on a representative zone of each irrigation type.

Pressure is the fault line most systems fail along. EPA notes that some sprinkler body models can control water pressure at the inlet to the nozzle, which is what lets the nozzle perform as designed, and states that installing WaterSense labeled spray sprinkler bodies in a system for the average household using 50,500 gallons outdoors and operating at or above 60 pounds per square inch can save nearly 5,600 gallons of water a year, with more than 31 billion gallons available nationally if every over-pressured sprinkler body were replaced.

Spray heads, rotors and nozzles: matching hardware to the area

Most repair calls are really hardware-matching calls. Sprinkler types are not interchangeable, and mixing them inside one zone is the most common reason half a lawn is soaked and the other half is dry.

  • Fixed spray heads throw a fan pattern over short distances and apply water quickly, which makes them the type most likely to cause runoff on slopes and clay.
  • Rotors turn a stream slowly across large areas and apply water far more slowly, so a rotor and a spray head on the same zone can never both be right.
  • Rotary nozzles fit a spray body but apply water at a lower rate, which is a common retrofit where runoff is the problem.
  • Matched precipitation nozzles keep every head in a zone applying at the same rate regardless of arc, which is what makes a quarter-circle and a full-circle head compatible.
  • Drip and micro-irrigation belong in beds, and EPA's new home audit guidelines require micro-irrigation systems to include at minimum pressure regulators, filters and flush end assemblies.
  • Pop-up height matters in turf: EPA's guidelines call for sprinkler heads other than micro-irrigation to have a 4-inch or greater pop-up height.
  • Some areas should not be on sprinklers at all: EPA's guidelines exclude sprinkler irrigation on turfgrass strips less than 4 feet wide and on slopes steeper than 4 feet of horizontal run per 1 foot of rise.

Pressure: the variable that decides whether the hardware works

Every nozzle is designed to operate in a pressure band, and above it the stream breaks into fine droplets that drift and evaporate instead of landing. That is what the fog around a spray head actually is: water you paid for, leaving. EPA's audit guidelines set the test at plus or minus 10 percent of the manufacturer-recommended operating pressure for the emission device in question, measured on a representative zone of each irrigation type, which is a far more specific check than the usual glance at the spray pattern.

The fix is usually at the sprinkler body rather than the whole system. EPA explains that the sprinkler body is the exterior shell that connects to the irrigation system piping and houses the spray nozzle that applies water on the landscape, and that some models control water pressure at the inlet to the nozzle, giving effective performance of the associated spray nozzles. Its figures for the upgrade are worth quoting to a contractor: for the average household using 50,500 gallons outdoors and operating at or above 60 pounds per square inch, labeled spray sprinkler bodies can save nearly 5,600 gallons a year, and replacing every over-pressured body nationally could save more than 31 billion gallons annually.

Low pressure is the opposite failure and just as common, usually caused by too many heads on one zone, an undersized line, a partly closed valve or a leak upstream. Its signature is a head that dribbles rather than throws, and lengthening the run time never fixes it.

What a sprinkler audit measures, and what the report should say

An audit is a measurement, not a walk-around. EPA's approach for labeled new homes is a useful template for any system: determine lower quarter distribution uniformity using the catch-can method on the largest spray-irrigated area, over turfgrass only, and verify that it reaches 65 percent or greater; verify the system operates without leaks; verify there is no runoff or overspray leaving the property during a minimum operating duration judged appropriate for the system; and verify that a technology is present that inhibits or interrupts operation during rainfall or sufficient moisture, such as a rain sensor or soil moisture sensor.

The output should be run times per zone, not a single number for the yard. EPA's guidelines also require two schedules to be created and posted at the controller, one for the initial grow-in phase and one for the established landscape, with schedules that vary by season and comply with local water restrictions. A report that hands you a seasonal schedule per zone and the pressure readings behind it is worth paying for; one that says the system was checked and is fine is not.

EPA recognizes certification programs in three areas: irrigation auditor, for professionals who assess the proper functioning of existing systems; irrigation installation and maintenance professional, for those who install, repair and maintain systems; and irrigation designer, for those who design new ones. Asking which of the three a company holds is a quick way to find out whether the person quoting an audit actually does audits.

Diagnosing a zone that will not run, and one that never stops

  • A zone that does nothing while others work usually points to the valve solenoid or its wiring rather than to the controller.
  • A zone that runs whenever the water is on, regardless of the controller, is typically a valve stuck open by debris or a failed diaphragm.
  • All zones weak at once suggests a supply problem: a partly closed main shutoff, a failing pressure regulator or a leak before the valves.
  • A single head throwing far less than its neighbors is usually a clogged nozzle or filter, not a pressure problem across the zone.
  • Misting at every head on a zone is over-pressure, and is the failure EPA's pressure-regulating sprinkler bodies exist to fix.
  • A permanently soggy patch, especially one that stays wet between cycles, usually means a cracked lateral or fitting below it.
  • Dry rings between heads mean spacing or arc are wrong, and adding minutes only floods everything in between.
  • A controller that lost its program after a power cut may simply be running a factory default schedule nobody chose.

Repair the heads or rework the zone?

Replacing broken heads is the right call when the system was laid out correctly and time has simply damaged it: mower strikes, cracked bodies, worn seals, clogged nozzles. These are cheap parts and a straightforward visit, and a system that audits well between failures deserves nothing more.

Reworking a zone is the right call when the measurement says the layout is wrong. A zone that cannot reach reasonable distribution uniformity no matter how the heads are adjusted, a zone mixing rotors and sprays, a zone whose heads are spaced so far apart that dry rings are structural, or a bed being watered by lawn sprinklers because it happened to be adjacent are all design problems. Adding minutes to a badly designed zone buys a wet patch and a dry one.

Retrofits sit between the two and are often the best value: pressure-regulating sprinkler bodies where misting is the issue, rotary nozzles in a spray zone that runs off, drip conversion for beds, and a sensor that stops a cycle the landscape does not need. EPA's audit criteria include a technology that inhibits or interrupts operation during rainfall or sufficient moisture, which is one of the least expensive components in the whole system and one of the most frequently missing.

Shutdown, start-up and the freeze that splits a backflow assembly

In the freezing half of the country the shutdown visit is the one that protects the whole investment. Water left in a lateral, a valve or a backflow assembly expands when it freezes and splits whatever contains it, and the assembly is usually the most expensive single component above ground. A proper shutdown closes the supply, drains or blows out the lines and protects the assembly, and a crew that rushes a blowout at too high a pressure can damage the system it was hired to save, so ask what pressure they blow at and how they protect the heads.

Start-up is the reverse and should never be a matter of switching the controller on. Pressurizing slowly avoids the surge that breaks fittings, and then every zone is run in turn so the winter's damage is found in one visit rather than discovered in July as a brown patch. This is also the sensible moment for the audit, since the catch cans and the pressure gauge are already coming out of the truck.

In the mild South and Southwest, systems run year round and the seasonal work is schedule change rather than drainage, but a hard freeze warning still means protecting exposed backflow assemblies and above-ground piping. A hose bib insulator on the assembly is a small purchase next to replacing it.

What moves a sprinkler service quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Sprinkler work is priced by how much of it is diagnosis and how much is digging. The variables are the number of zones and heads involved, whether the fault is above ground or has to be located under turf, whether the repair is a head swap or a section of lateral, whether an audit with catch cans and pressure readings is included, the type and number of components being retrofitted, how much of the yard has to be opened and restored, and whether seasonal shutdown and start-up visits are bundled into a service agreement or billed one at a time. A quote that includes locating the fault is not comparable to one that charges for it separately.

LokalMatch gets the conversation started. You describe the system once, including roughly how many zones it has, what it is doing wrong, whether you want a repair, an audit or a seasonal visit, and what your water utility allows, and irrigation and sprinkler contractors covering your area receive that request. Those interested reach out to you. Pros pay for the requests they receive and homeowners are never charged. LokalMatch does not repair sprinkler systems, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so checking any state licence, your utility's backflow requirements and the written scope remains your responsibility.

Sprinkler Systems: frequently asked questions

How do I know whether my sprinklers are watering evenly?

By measuring, which is what an audit does. EPA's irrigation audit guidelines determine lower quarter distribution uniformity with the catch-can method on the largest spray-irrigated area, over turfgrass only, and look for 65 percent or greater. You can run a rough version yourself with straight-sided containers spread across a zone and a timer, but a professional audit pairs the catch cans with pressure readings and gives you run times per zone.

Why do my sprinklers fog instead of spraying droplets?

That is over-pressure for the nozzles installed, and the fine mist drifts and evaporates rather than landing. EPA's audit guidance is that zone pressure should be within plus or minus 10 percent of the manufacturer's recommended operating pressure for the device in use. EPA also notes that some sprinkler body models control water pressure at the inlet to the nozzle, which is the usual fix and can save the average over-pressured household nearly 5,600 gallons a year.

One zone will not turn on. Is that the controller?

Usually not. A single dead zone while the others run normally points at that zone's valve solenoid or the wire to it, since the controller is clearly capable of sending signals. A zone that runs constantly regardless of the controller is more often a valve held open by grit or a failed diaphragm. Either is a routine repair, but both are underground or in a valve box, which is why diagnosis time is a real line on the bill.

Should beds and lawn be on the same zone?

No, because they need different amounts of water applied at different rates. EPA's new home audit guidelines go further and require that sprinkler irrigation, other than micro-irrigation, is not used to water plantings other than maintained turfgrass, and is not used on turf strips less than 4 feet wide or on slopes steeper than 4 feet of run per 1 foot of rise. Beds are drip territory, and drip systems are required to include pressure regulators, filters and flush end assemblies.

Do I need a winter blowout, or is draining enough?

It depends on how the system was built and how cold it gets. What matters is that no water is left where it can freeze and split a pipe, a valve or the backflow assembly. Some systems drain reliably by gravity through drain valves; many do not, and are blown out with compressed air. Ask the contractor which method suits your system, what pressure they use, and how the backflow assembly is protected, since that component is usually the costliest one to replace.

What kind of irrigation certification should I ask for?

Ask which one, because they are not the same. EPA recognizes certification programs in three areas: irrigation auditor, for professionals who assess the proper functioning of existing systems and perform water audits; irrigation installation and maintenance professional, for installing, repairing and maintaining systems; and irrigation designer, for designing new systems. A company that installs beautifully may not audit, and certification is separate from any state licence your state requires.

Sources

  1. EPA WaterSense: Spray Sprinkler Bodies
  2. EPA WaterSense: Guidelines for Irrigation Audits on WaterSense Labeled New Homes
  3. EPA WaterSense: Professional Certification

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 21, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of sprinkler system

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the yard and the scope of the design
  • Grading, excavation and drainage work
  • Hardscape materials, such as stone, pavers or wood
  • Plants, sod and soil
  • Access for machinery
  • Removal of old materials, trees or stumps
  • How often visits are scheduled for ongoing services

How to compare irrigation contractors before you hire

  • Choose a company that does the kind of work you need, since design, lawn care, tree work and hardscaping are different specialties.
  • For big projects, ask for a site plan or drawing before work starts.
  • Ask how they'll handle grading and drainage so water moves away from the house.
  • For tree removal or large pruning, look for a qualified arborist with liability insurance.
  • For ongoing services like lawn care or snow removal, get the visit schedule and what's included in writing.

Questions to ask irrigation contractors before you hire

  • Can I see a plan or drawing before you start?
  • How will you handle drainage and grading?
  • Will you have underground utilities located before you dig?
  • Does any of this work need a permit, such as for a retaining wall, fence or tree removal?
  • What plants or materials do you recommend for our climate and my yard's sun and shade?
  • Do you guarantee plants or sod, and for what conditions?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?

When to call a pro for sprinkler system

  • Water that pools near the house or in the yard after rain
  • A tree that is leaning, cracked or has large dead branches over the house or a driveway
  • A retaining wall that is bulging, leaning or cracking

Sprinkler system permits and local rules

Some sprinkler system work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

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