Skip to content
LokalMatch

Garage Doors

Garage Doors near you

A garage door is the largest moving object in an American home and, on most streets, the single biggest thing you see from the curb. It also has to be engineered, because that broad flat panel is what a storm pushes against. In hurricane and high-wind parts of the country the garage door is treated as part of the building envelope: if it fails, the house pressurizes from the inside and the roof and walls are next.

Tell us about your garage door project and we’ll help you find local garage door installers who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

Installers measure the opening and the space behind it, remove the old door and its counterbalance, then set the new sections, tracks, springs, cables and seals and recommission the opener. The choices in front of you are material, insulation, panel style, glazing and, where your county requires it, a wind and impact rating that has to be documented rather than described.

This guide covers the door types found on US houses, what each material actually gives you, how wind-load and impact ratings and Florida's product approval system work, the permit and contractor-licensing questions that vary by state, how an installation runs, and what to keep an eye on afterward. For broken springs and doors that jam, see the garage door repair guide; for motors, sensors and remotes, see the garage door openers guide.

Garage door types on US homes: sectional, one-piece, rolling steel and side-sliding

Nearly every attached garage built in the last few decades uses a sectional door, and the trade standard written for them, ANSI/DASMA 102, is titled Specifications for Sectional Overhead-Type Doors. The other types still turn up on older houses, detached shops and coastal properties, and the type you have changes what can be automated safely.

  • Sectional: hinged horizontal sections ride curved tracks and park overhead, so nothing sweeps out over the driveway and the counterbalance can be sized precisely to the finished door.
  • One-piece tilt-up: a single slab pivots up and outward on jamb hardware, common on mid-century houses, and it needs clear swing space in front of the opening.
  • Rolling steel: interlocking slats coil onto a barrel above the header, chosen where headroom is consumed by structure or storage, and more usual on shops and outbuildings than on houses.
  • Side-sliding: sections run sideways along a wall-mounted track, a solution where the ceiling cannot carry horizontal tracks at all.
  • Carriage house styling is a look rather than a type: most carriage doors are ordinary sectional doors with applied overlays, strap hinges and handles.
  • Type matters for automation: the CPSC standard bars the unattended-closing feature on one-piece and swinging doors, so a tilt-up door cannot be closed from an app the way a sectional one can.

Garage door materials: steel gauge, wood, fiberglass, aluminum and glass

Material sets the weight, and weight drives everything mechanical behind the door. The springs, cables, drums and hardware are all specified for a particular finished door, so a heavier material is not simply a sturdier version of a lighter one.

Where insulation is part of the decision, ask for the manufacturer's tested numbers rather than a core thickness. ANSI/DASMA 105 is the trade test method for thermal transmittance and air infiltration of garage doors, which is the measurement that describes a whole assembly, seals included, instead of the foam alone.

  • Steel: the default across the US, sold by gauge, where a lower gauge number means thicker steel; two skins bonded to a foam core give the stiffest and quietest door and resist the dents a basketball or a trash can leaves in a single skin.
  • Wood: real stile-and-rail or overlay wood suits historic districts and high-end elevations, but it is heavy and it needs refinishing on a schedule, especially on a south or west elevation.
  • Fiberglass and composite: molded skins that hold a wood grain without the refinishing, a common pick on the Gulf and Atlantic coasts because they do not corrode in salt air.
  • Aluminum with glass or polycarbonate: full-view doors for modern elevations, bright inside but the weakest thermally, and worth pairing with tempered or impact-rated glazing.
  • Vinyl-clad and PVC-faced doors resist dents and salt well and are often specified for rental and coastal properties.
  • Anything you add later, from window inserts to a heavier bottom section, changes the balance and means the counterbalance has to be re-sized by a technician.

Wind-load and impact ratings: hurricane zones, Florida product approval and what the labels mean

In the wind-borne debris regions along the Gulf and Atlantic coasts, a garage door is rated, tested and documented rather than simply chosen. Two ANSI/DASMA test standards do the work: 108 determines structural performance under uniform static air pressure difference, which is the wind-load test, and 115 determines structural performance under missile impact and cyclic wind pressure, which is the debris-impact test. A door can pass the pressure test and still not be impact rated, and the two are not interchangeable.

Florida runs a statewide product approval system, and its scope is set by statute. Section 553.842 of the Florida Statutes lists panel walls, exterior doors, roofing, skylights, windows, shutters, impact protective systems and structural components among the products that must be approved through an evaluation, test report or certification route before they are used. The same statute is blunt about marketing: a product may not be advertised, sold, offered, provided, distributed or marketed as hurricane, windstorm or impact protection from wind-borne debris unless it is approved under that section.

  • Ask for the approval or evaluation number for the exact model and size you are buying, not for the product line, since ratings are tied to specific widths, heights and reinforcement.
  • A wind rating belongs to the whole assembly: the door, its struts, the track, the hardware and the fasteners into the jambs all form part of the tested configuration.
  • Substituting hardware or leaving out a strut during installation can void the rating even though the door itself is the approved model.
  • Impact rating and pressure rating are separate; in some jurisdictions a non-impact door can be paired with an approved shutter or panel system instead.
  • Keep the approval paperwork with your house records: it is what an inspector asks for, and what an insurer may ask for later.
  • Outside hurricane regions, wind ratings still matter on exposed rural lots and wide double doors, so describe the site to the installer.

Permits and contractor licensing for a new garage door, state by state

There is no national garage door contractor license in the United States. Licensing sits with the states and sometimes with the city, so the right question is never whether a company is licensed in general but whether it holds the credential your state issues for this work.

California is the clearest example. The Contractors State License Board issues the C-61 limited specialty classification, defined in Title 16 of the California Code of Regulations, and garage door work falls under its D-28 subclassification, Doors, Gates and Activating Devices. Some states license this trade under a general building classification instead, and a few do not license it separately at all, which makes insurance certificates and references carry more weight.

Permits are a separate question from licensing and are usually local. Florida makes the baseline explicit in section 553.79 of its statutes: it is unlawful to construct, erect, alter, modify, repair or demolish any building in the state without first obtaining a permit. Replacing a door in an existing opening is often permitted work in coastal jurisdictions precisely because the wind rating has to be inspected, and widening an opening changes a structural header and is permitted work almost everywhere.

How a garage door installation runs, from measuring to the final balance test

A door is fitted to the room behind the opening as much as to the opening itself, so the site visit is where the real specification happens. The installer records the rough opening, the headroom above it, the sideroom on each side for vertical track and spring hardware, and the backroom for horizontal track and the operator.

  • Survey: obstructions decide the track system, and low ceilings, a dropped beam, ductwork or a stairway can push you to low-headroom track, high-lift track or a wall-mounted operator.
  • Teardown: the old counterbalance is unwound and the door dismantled section by section, which is the most dangerous hour of the job and the reason removal is quoted as part of the installation rather than left to you.
  • Jamb and header check: rotted or split framing is repaired before anything is fastened to it, because tracks and spring anchors transfer real load into that wood.
  • Counterbalance: springs and drums are selected for the finished weight and travel of the new door, the subject of ANSI/DASMA 103, the trade standard for counterbalance systems on residential sectional garage doors.
  • Reinforcement: struts and an operator bracket are added where the manufacturer requires them, and in a rated installation these are part of the approved configuration.
  • Commissioning: the installer balances the door so it holds position by hand, sets the seals to the slab, then reconnects the operator and retests its reversing and sensor functions before handing it over.

Keeping a new garage door working: seals, hardware and an annual service

A new door arrives balanced and sealed, and it drifts from there. Most of what shortens a door's life is not dramatic: fasteners loosen from the cycling, seals harden, and a door that has gone slightly out of balance makes the operator work against it every single day.

  • Watch the bottom seal and the perimeter stop for daylight, which is the cheapest early warning that the door has shifted or the slab has moved.
  • In salt air, rinse hardware and hinges periodically and touch up scratches before corrosion starts under the finish.
  • Listen for change rather than for noise: a door that has become louder or jerkier over a season is usually telling you about rollers, bearings or balance.
  • Have the counterbalance, cables and hardware inspected on the manufacturer's schedule, and never adjust them yourself.
  • Keep the door's paperwork, including any wind or impact approval and the operator manual, where the next technician can find it.
  • After any impact from a vehicle, have the door and its tracks inspected before you operate it again, even if it appears to run.

What drives the cost of a new garage door in the US

Two estimates for the same opening can describe genuinely different products and scopes of work. Rather than comparing bottom lines, compare the specification line by line, because that is where the difference usually lives.

  • Size and configuration: a single door, a double, or two singles with a post between them are three different jobs in hardware and labor.
  • Construction: single-skin, two-layer or three-layer sandwich construction, and the steel gauge behind the finish.
  • Wind and impact rating: a rated door carries heavier sections, extra struts and specified fasteners, and the documentation work that comes with it.
  • Glazing: window inserts, the glass type in them, and whether that glazing is itself impact rated.
  • Track and lift type: standard, low headroom or high lift, plus any structural work needed to accommodate it.
  • Site work: jamb repair, a new header, electrical for an operator, and haul-away of the old door.
  • Whether the operator is reused or replaced, which is decided by its condition and its entrapment protection, not just its age.

Garage Doors: frequently asked questions

Do I need a wind-rated garage door where I live?

It depends on your county's adopted code and whether you sit in a wind-borne debris region. In Florida, products including exterior doors go through the statewide product approval system, and nothing may be marketed as hurricane or windstorm protection unless it is approved that way. Ask your local building department what rating applies to your address before ordering, and get the approval number for the exact model and size.

Can I keep my existing opener when I replace the door?

Sometimes. The opener has to suit the weight and travel of the new door and must still have working entrapment protection, meaning it reverses on contact and has external sensors. Openers manufactured on or after January 1, 1993 for sale in the US are covered by the CPSC standard that requires those features. If yours predates that or lacks the sensors, replace it with the door.

Is a permit required to replace a garage door?

Often, and more often than homeowners expect in coastal states. Florida law makes it unlawful to alter, modify or repair a building without first obtaining a permit, and jurisdictions that enforce wind ratings generally want the replacement inspected. Widening the opening is structural work and is permitted almost everywhere. Your local building department is the only authority on this.

Can I take the old garage door down myself to save labor?

No. The counterbalance springs hold stored energy even with the door closed, and releasing it without the correct winding bars and training causes serious injuries every year. Removal is part of what a garage door company does, and it is not a step to separate from the installation.

How does LokalMatch work when I want a new garage door?

You describe the job once, including the opening size, your ZIP code and whether you need a wind or impact rating, and garage door companies covering your area contact you directly. Those pros pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install doors, does not set or estimate prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so confirming state licensing, insurance and product approval numbers remains yours to do.

Sources

  1. Regulations, Mandatory Standards and Bans (garage door operator, 16 CFR part 1211) — U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
  2. 16 CFR part 1211, Safety Standard for Automatic Residential Garage Door Operators — U.S. Government Publishing Office
  3. Florida Statutes section 553.842, Product evaluation and approval — The Florida Legislature
  4. Florida Statutes section 553.79, Permits; applications; issuance; inspections — The Florida Legislature
  5. C-61 Limited Specialty classification and its D subclassifications, including D-28 Doors, Gates and Activating Devices — California Contractors State License Board
  6. ANSI/DASMA standards for sectional doors, counterbalance systems, thermal performance, wind load and impact — Door & Access Systems Manufacturers Association International

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

Find garage door installers by city

Alaska

Show 1 cities

California

Show 186 cities

Delaware

Show 1 cities

Florida

Show 82 cities

Maine

Show 1 cities

Texas

Show 79 cities

What affects the cost of garage door

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare garage door installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask garage door installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for garage door

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Garage door permits and local rules

Some garage door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Ready to get garage door quotes?

Tell us about your garage door project.

Do you offer garage door services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.