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Garage Door Repair

Garage Door Repair near you

Garage doors fail suddenly and at inconvenient moments: a bang in the garage on a cold morning and a door that will not lift, a cable that lets go and drops one corner, or a door that runs off its track and hangs in the opening. Nearly all of it traces back to a short list of wearing parts, and most of it is repairable without replacing the door.

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Technicians replace broken torsion and extension springs, worn lift cables, rollers, hinges, bearings and bottom seals, re-rail doors that have jumped their track, replace damaged sections, rebalance doors and recommission the operator afterward. One thing on that list is different from the rest: the counterbalance. Springs and cables store enough energy to injure or kill, and they are the reason this trade exists as a trade.

This guide covers the symptoms and what usually causes them, how torsion and extension systems actually carry the weight, what to do the moment a spring breaks, the monthly safety checks you can run without touching anything under tension, what a service call involves, how to weigh repair against replacement, and the licensing questions that vary by state.

A broken torsion spring is not a DIY repair: what to do first

Say this plainly, because the internet is full of people saying otherwise: replacing a garage door torsion spring is not a homeowner job. The spring is wound to hold a door weighing well over a hundred pounds, and that energy is still in it whether the door is open, closed or already broken. Winding bars slip, cones fail, and the injuries that result are crush and laceration injuries to hands, face and skull. Extension springs are no safer, because a stretched spring that lets go becomes a projectile down the length of the garage.

You can usually tell a snapped torsion spring without touching anything. There is a loud report from the garage, and afterward the opener strains, hums or lifts the door a few inches and stops, because an operator is built to move a balanced door rather than to hoist a whole one. Look at the shaft above the opening from a distance: a broken torsion spring shows a clean gap between coils.

  • Stop using the door and the opener, and unplug the operator so nobody tries the button while you wait.
  • If the door is stuck open or partway, keep people, pets and vehicles out from beneath it, because nothing is reliably holding it up.
  • Do not pull the manual release on a raised door with a broken spring or cable; releasing it removes the only thing still restraining the weight.
  • Do not put a jack, a prop or your shoulder under the door to force it, and do not touch the springs, drums, cables or bottom brackets.
  • Park elsewhere if the car is outside, and accept being locked out rather than improvising a way in.
  • Call a garage door company and describe what you heard and what you can see from a safe distance; trapped vehicles and doors that will not close are normal reasons for same-day service.

How the counterbalance carries the door: torsion springs, extension springs and containment cables

A garage door does not feel heavy when it is working, and that is the whole trick. The counterbalance stores energy as the door closes and returns it as the door opens, so that at any point in the travel the door is close to weightless. The operator, or your arm, only has to overcome friction and nudge it along. Remove the counterbalance and you are lifting the raw weight of the door.

  • Torsion system: springs sit on a shaft above the opening and twist; the shaft turns cable drums at each end, and the lift cables run down to brackets at the bottom corners of the door.
  • Extension system: springs run horizontally alongside the tracks and stretch as the door closes, working through pulleys and cables; they are typical of older and lighter doors.
  • Containment cables are what make an extension system tolerable: a cable threaded through the center of each spring and anchored at both ends so that a broken spring stays on the cable instead of flying across the garage. An extension-spring door without them should be fitted with them.
  • Lift cables are a rated component in their own right, covered by ANSI/DASMA 110, the trade standard for lifting cables for sectional type doors, and they are replaced in pairs.
  • Bottom brackets anchor the cables to the door and stay under full spring tension whenever the door is down, which is why loosening one is a classic and severe injury.
  • Balance is specific to a given door: add insulation, glazing or a replacement section and the springs no longer match the door they were sized for.

Common garage door symptoms and what they usually mean

It helps to think of the door as four systems that fail into each other: the sections and their hardware, the track and rollers, the counterbalance, and the operator. A technician diagnoses in that order rather than replacing the part the symptom points at, because the obvious part is often the victim rather than the cause.

  • Opener runs but the door barely moves: almost always a broken spring, not a failing motor.
  • Door is off track or hanging crooked: a snapped cable, a failed roller or an impact; treat it as unstable and stay clear.
  • Door reverses partway down: something is interrupting the sensor beam, the sensors are misaligned, or the door is binding and the operator reads that resistance as an obstruction.
  • Door will not close and the opener lights blink: a sensor fault, which is the single most common service call on an otherwise healthy door.
  • Grinding, popping or slamming: worn rollers and bearings, dry or cracked hinges, loose fasteners, or a door out of balance.
  • Frayed, slack or unwound cable: a cable failure in progress, and a door that can drop a corner without warning.
  • Sagging top section or a bent strut: the section is flexing under the operator arm and needs reinforcement rather than a stronger opener.

Monthly garage door checks that never involve touching a spring

Everything worth checking yourself is either visual or a function test of the operator's safety systems. Those systems are not optional extras: under the CPSC standard at 16 CFR part 1211, an operator has to provide inherent primary entrapment protection, which reverses the door when it meets an obstruction, and to work with secondary entrapment protection such as an external photoelectric sensor or an edge sensor. Testing them is how you find out they still work.

If any check fails, stop using the operator until it has been adjusted to its manual or serviced. A door that fails a balance test needs a technician, not a force adjustment on the opener.

  • Inspect from a distance with the door closed: look for gaps in spring coils, rust, frayed cable strands, cracked rollers and hinges, and loose or missing fasteners.
  • Contact reversal test: lay a solid object flat on the floor in the door's path and close the door; it must reverse when it strikes the object.
  • Sensor test: with the door closing, break the beam near the floor with a broom or a box. Never use a hand, a foot, a child or a pet for this test.
  • Balance test: with the door fully closed, pull the manual release and raise the door by its handles or lifting points, never by the gaps between sections. A balanced door moves easily and stays roughly where you leave it.
  • Check the manual release itself: the standard calls for a red handle, reachable at a height of about six feet, that releases with no more than about fifty pounds of pull.
  • Look at the seal line along the slab, and clear ice, debris or stored items that could sit in the door's path.

What happens on a garage door repair call

  • Assessment: the technician cycles the door by hand and under power, checks balance, and inspects springs, cables, drums, rollers, hinges, track and the operator before quoting.
  • Spring replacement: springs are sized to the door's weight, height and cycle expectations, and on a two-spring door both are normally replaced together so the pair ages evenly.
  • Cables and drums: lift cables are replaced as a set and the drums are re-seated and the door re-leveled, since uneven drum settings are what leave a door running crooked.
  • Re-railing: an off-track door is brought back into the track, and bent track, damaged rollers and stressed hinges are replaced rather than straightened where they carry load.
  • Sections: a single damaged section can often be swapped if the manufacturer still produces it, though an exact color match on a weathered door is not promised.
  • Recommissioning: force and travel limits are reset, the reversal and sensor functions are retested, and on a wind-rated door the technician confirms that struts and hardware still match the approved configuration.

Repair or replace: where the line usually falls

  • Repair a spring, cable, roller, hinge or bearing failure on a structurally sound door: these are consumable parts with a service life, not signs the door is finished.
  • Repair one or two damaged sections when matching sections are still manufactured and the rest of the door is straight.
  • Replace when several sections are buckled, rusted through or delaminating, or when the door has been hit hard enough to distort its geometry.
  • Replace when the model has been discontinued and parts are scavenged, or when the same failure returns repeatedly on an old, heavily cycled door.
  • Replace when you need something the current door cannot be made into, such as an insulated door or a wind and impact rating your jurisdiction now requires.
  • In a coastal jurisdiction, check before repairing: patching a rated door with unapproved parts can leave you with a door that no longer matches its approval.

Who is allowed to do the repair: state licensing and insurance

Garage door repair is licensed at state level in the US, and the classification names differ. California issues the C-61 limited specialty license with the D-28 subclassification, Doors, Gates and Activating Devices, under Title 16 of the California Code of Regulations. Other states fold the work into a general building or home improvement license, and some do not license it separately, which puts the weight on liability insurance and workers' compensation instead.

Anything electrical is a separate credential again. In California a C-10 electrical contractor is defined as one who places, installs, erects or connects electrical wires, fixtures, appliances, apparatus, raceways, conduits or any part of them that generate, transmit, transform or utilize electrical energy. Adding a ceiling receptacle or a dedicated circuit for an operator is that person's work, not the door technician's, and a permit may follow it.

Garage Door Repair: frequently asked questions

Can I replace a garage door spring myself?

No, and this is the one job in the house worth being absolute about. A torsion spring holds enough stored energy to break bones or worse, and it stays dangerous after it snaps. Extension springs whip when they fail. Spring work needs proper winding bars, correct sizing and training, and it is standard work for any garage door company.

My opener runs but the door will not lift. Is the motor dead?

Usually not. An operator is designed to move a counterbalanced door, not to lift its full weight, so a broken spring produces exactly this symptom: the motor runs, the door shudders or rises a few inches, then stops. Look for a gap in the spring coils above the door from a safe distance, stop using the opener, and call a technician.

Why does my garage door go back up as it closes?

The operator thinks something is in the way. Check that nothing is interrupting the beam between the sensors near the floor, that the lenses are clean and that both are aimed at each other, since a bumped sensor is the usual culprit. Ice, debris or a door binding in its track produce the same behavior. If it persists, have the door and the operator's settings checked.

Do extension springs need safety cables?

Yes. A containment cable runs through the middle of each extension spring and is anchored at both ends, so that when the spring eventually breaks the pieces stay captive on the cable instead of being launched across the garage. If your door has extension springs without them, ask the technician to add them on the next visit.

How does LokalMatch work when my garage door breaks?

Describe what happened once, with your ZIP code, what you heard and whether a vehicle is trapped, and garage door technicians serving your area reach out to you rather than you calling down a list. Technicians pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not perform repairs, does not set what anyone charges, and does not vet, rank or recommend the companies that respond.

Sources

  1. 16 CFR part 1211, entrapment protection requirements for residential garage door operators — U.S. Government Publishing Office
  2. Mandatory standard for garage door operators under the Consumer Product Safety Act — U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
  3. ANSI/DASMA 110, Standard for Lifting Cables for Sectional Type Doors, and related door standards — Door & Access Systems Manufacturers Association International
  4. C-61 Limited Specialty classification and subclassification D-28, Doors, Gates and Activating Devices — California Contractors State License Board
  5. C-10 Electrical Contractor classification — California Contractors State License Board

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of garage door repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare garage door technicians before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask garage door technicians before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for garage door repair

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Garage door repair permits and local rules

Some garage door repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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