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A front door is shopped for on looks and sold on security, but in the United States it is also a regulated piece of glazed hardware. The Consumer Product Safety Commission's architectural glazing standard, 16 CFR part 1201, prescribes safety requirements for the glazing material used in doors and in storm and combination doors, and the Commission states plainly what the requirements are for: to reduce or eliminate unreasonable risks of death or serious injury to consumers when glazing material is broken by human contact. The moment an entry door has a lite, a sidelite or a transom, the glass in it is a regulated product rather than a styling decision.

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The energy side is measured rather than argued about. ENERGY STAR certified doors are manufactured by an ENERGY STAR partner, are independently tested, certified and verified by the National Fenestration Rating Council, and carry NFRC ratings meeting guidelines set by the EPA. ENERGY STAR is explicit that doors are treated differently from windows: their performance criteria are based on the amount of glass they have, which the program calls the glazing level, so a solid slab and a full-lite entry are never held to the same numbers.

Everything else depends on two local facts. Who may legally do the work is decided state by state, and the age of the house decides whether a federal lead rule governs the job. This guide covers entry configurations, what the federal glazing standard requires of the glass, how to read a door label, licensing and permits, pre-1978 houses, and the separate federal standard that governs the doors of a HUD-code manufactured home.

Front door configurations: slab, prehung entry system, sidelites and transoms

  • Slab replacement: a new door hung in the frame you already have, which only works when the jambs are square, dry and bored for hardware in the same places.
  • Prehung entry system: the slab, frame, sill and weatherstripping arrive as one assembly, which is the usual answer when the sill or jamb has taken water.
  • Sidelites: narrow fixed glazed panels beside the door, each one a piece of glazing whose area decides which test category the federal standard puts the assembly in.
  • Transom: a fixed panel above the door that brings in daylight high on the wall, often the difference between a dark hall and a bright one.
  • Double entry doors: an active leaf and an inactive leaf held by flush bolts, which need a long meeting edge to seal and a wider structural header.
  • Storm or combination door: a secondary door over the entry, defined by the federal standard as a movable assembly used in tandem with an exterior door, and covered by the same glazing requirements.
  • Manufactured-home entry doors: in a HUD-code home these are federally specified rather than chosen freely, so the size and hardware are set before style is.

What the federal glazing standard requires of the glass in an entry door

The standard sorts products into two test categories, and an entry door can fall into either depending on how much glass is in one piece. Category I products, which the standard also calls Class B, are storm or combination doors and doors that contain no single piece of glazing material greater than 9 square feet in surface area on one side. Category II products, or Class A, include storm and combination doors and doors that contain any piece of glazing material greater than 9 square feet, along with sliding glass patio doors and bathtub and shower doors and enclosures. A single large lite can therefore move the door you are ordering into the more demanding category.

Glazing material is defined broadly: glass including annealed, organic-coated, tempered, laminated and wired glass, or combinations of them, used in openings through the listed products or as the products themselves. Under the general requirements, all glazing the standard applies to must meet the impact and environmental test requirements of the standard and must be labeled by manufacturers, and the test provisions are those of ANSI Z97.1-2015. A permanent label is defined as one that remains permanently legible and visible after installation and would be destroyed in attempts to remove it, which is why safety glazing is sandblasted, acid etched or hot stamped rather than stickered.

There are narrow exemptions worth knowing before you fall in love with a door. Openings in doors through which a 3 inch diameter sphere is unable to pass are exempt, as are the louvers of jalousie doors. So is decorative carved, dalle or leaded glass used in doors, but only where all four of the stated conditions hold: the coloring or texturing cannot be removed without destroying the material, the primary purpose of the glazing is decorative or artistic, it is conspicuously colored or textured so as to be plainly identifiable as decorative rather than functional, and it is divided into segments by conspicuous and plainly visible lines. One more detail catches installers: anyone who cuts certified and permanently labeled glazing material into smaller pieces is treated by the standard as a private labeler, with the obligations that follow.

Reading a door's NFRC label and its ENERGY STAR glazing level

The NFRC describes itself as the independent, nonprofit certification body for the energy performance of windows, doors and skylights, and it is the official certification body for ENERGY STAR windows, doors and skylights. That relationship is the reason a door label is worth more than a brochure: the numbers on it come from a third party rather than from the company quoting you.

A door label reads differently from a window label, and homeowners routinely misread it. The NFRC explains that the circled value shows the rating a specific door has received based on its glass configuration, and that each rating is split into two values, solar heat gain and U-factor. On a door label the U-factor range runs from 0.00 to 2.00, and the lower the number, the better the product keeps heat from escaping. Solar heat gain coefficient measures how well the product resists unwanted direct or indirect solar radiation: a low number helps keep a house cool in summer, while a higher one can help keep it warm in winter.

  • Ask for the certified ratings of the exact model and glass configuration being quoted, since the circled value on the label belongs to one configuration rather than to the product line.
  • Match the choice to the elevation: ENERGY STAR advises that in colder climates a south-facing opening wants a higher solar heat gain coefficient with a low U-factor, while east and west openings want a low coefficient or shade.
  • In warmer climates the advice reverses, with a low solar heat gain coefficient mattering for openings facing south, east and west.
  • Expect the installation instructions to be in the box: ENERGY STAR certified doors are required to have installation instructions packaged with the product or readily available online, and some manufacturers void the warranty if they are not followed.
  • Ask whether the crew is certified by the manufacturer to install the product you chose, because some warranties require exactly that.
  • Treat the payoff as a range rather than a promise: ENERGY STAR states that installing certified windows, doors and skylights can shrink energy bills by an average of up to 13 percent on heating and cooling costs nationwide compared with non-certified products.

Who may install a front door: state licensing, and permits from your own building department

There is no national license for door work in the United States, and the state-by-state differences are not cosmetic. California names two classifications that can both touch an entry door: a glazing contractor under the C-17 classification selects, cuts, assembles and installs all makes and kinds of glass, glass work, mirrored glass and glass substitute materials for glazing, executes the fabrication and glazing of frames, panels, sashes and doors, and installs these items in any structure, while the C-6 cabinet, millwork and finish carpentry classification covers a contractor who makes cabinets, cases, sashes, doors, trims and other items of finish carpentry and places, erects and finishes such millwork in structures.

Other states regulate the activity instead of the trade. Oregon states the rule broadly: Oregon law generally requires anyone who works for compensation in any construction activity involving improvements to real property to be licensed, with carpentry and general repair services listed among the examples, and the state notes that even an exempt category does not eliminate the need for a lead-based paint renovator certification. Washington requires construction contractors to register with Labor and Industries, requires them to be bonded and insured to protect the public, and publishes a tool to verify a contractor, tradesperson or business, warning that working without registering carries substantial penalties and fines. Texas is the useful counter-example: the list of industries the Department of Licensing and Regulation regulates runs from air conditioning and refrigeration contractors to electricians and industrialized housing, and contains no window, glazing, door or general residential contractor program at all.

Permits are a separate question and are enforced locally under a code your state adopts. Florida shows the structure clearly: its statute directs the Florida Building Commission to adopt by rule the Florida Building Code, which contains or incorporates by reference the laws and rules governing the design, construction, erection, alteration, modification, repair and demolition of public and private buildings. What that means for you is simple. Swapping a door into an existing opening and enlarging an opening or cutting a new one are different projects, the second almost always involves a structural header, and only your city or county building department can tell you which permits and inspections apply at your address.

Entry doors in pre-1978 houses: the federal lead rule has no cosmetic exemption

Taking out an old entry door disturbs paint on the casing, the stops and usually the jamb, and that is the trigger. The EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule establishes requirements for firms and individuals performing renovations and applies to work in houses, apartments and child-occupied facilities built before 1978. In general, anyone who is paid to perform work that disturbs paint in that housing must be certified, including sole proprietorships, and firms cannot advertise or perform renovation activities covered by the rule without firm certification. Carpentry and remodeling are both named among the covered activities.

The exemption homeowners hear about is narrower than it sounds. Minor repair and maintenance activities that disturb six square feet or less of paint per room inside, or twenty square feet or less on the exterior, fall outside the rule, but the EPA adds that window replacement and demolition of painted surfaces are always covered regardless of square footage, and that activities designated as prohibited stay prohibited regardless of area. Paint testing is not required by the rule, but unless there is documentation that the paint is not lead-based, the rule's requirements apply, which puts the burden on whoever wants to skip it.

Checking a firm takes one search. EPA firm certifications are good for five years, and a number of states are authorized to administer their own RRP programs in lieu of the federal one, so in those states the certification you are verifying is the state's. If the company proposes to sand or burn old paint off a jamb without containment, you have learned something more useful than any review could tell you.

HUD-code manufactured homes: the entry door follows a federal standard, not the local code

If the home was built to HUD's Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards, its doors are specified federally at 24 CFR part 3280 rather than by the building code your neighbors are under, and the dimensions are not negotiable. The same distinction runs through the glazing standard from the other direction: the CPSC states that architectural glazing materials used in the listed products and used in mobile homes are not subject to part 1201. Tell any supplier which kind of home you have before anything is ordered.

  • Manufactured homes must have a minimum of two exterior doors located remote from each other, and a required egress door may not be in a room that can only be left through a lockable interior door.
  • Remote has a measurement: doors may not be less than 12 feet apart center to center in a single-wide unit and 20 feet in a double-wide, measured in a straight line regardless of the walking path.
  • One of the required exit doors must be reachable from the doorway of each bedroom without travelling more than 35 feet along the natural, unobstructed path.
  • Exterior swinging doors must provide a minimum 28 inch wide by 74 inch high clear opening, and seals may reduce that opening by no more than one inch in either direction.
  • Each swinging exterior door other than a screen or storm door needs a key-operated lock with a deadlocking latch, or a key-operated deadbolt with a passage latch, and locks must not require a key to operate from the inside.
  • All exterior doors that open outward, including storm and screen doors, must be fitted with a safety door check.

What drives a front door quote, and where LokalMatch comes in

Entry door quotes diverge for physical reasons rather than sales reasons. A slab into a sound frame and a full entry system with sidelites are different amounts of work at the opening. Rot found at the sill or the bottom of a jamb once the old unit is out is real carpentry that nobody could see from the driveway. Glazing level changes the product and the category it is tested to. A pre-1978 house adds containment and cleanup to the day. Made-to-order sizes and decorative glass are manufactured after the order is placed, so the installation date belongs to a factory rather than to the crew's calendar.

Get the comparison onto paper rather than into a conversation: the exact model and glass configuration with its certified ratings, whether the frame and sill stay or go, who disposes of the old unit, whether lead-safe certification applies and is held, who applies for any permit, and the product warranty and the labor warranty as separate terms.

LokalMatch handles only the introduction. You describe the entry door job once, including whether the opening is changing size, what you know about water at the sill and roughly when the house was built, and door installers working in your area get in touch with you directly. The pros who respond pay LokalMatch for each request they take. LokalMatch does not install doors, does not set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any company, so verifying the state license where your state issues one, the insurance and the certified ratings stays with you.

Front Doors: frequently asked questions

Does the glass in a front door have to be safety glazing?

In practice, yes, and the federal standard is the reason. 16 CFR part 1201 prescribes safety requirements for glazing material used in doors and in storm and combination doors, and requires that glazing to meet the standard's impact and environmental test requirements, tested to the applicable provisions of ANSI Z97.1-2015, and to be labeled by manufacturers. How demanding the test is depends on the glass: a door with any single piece of glazing greater than 9 square feet is a Category II product, while one with no piece above that area is Category I.

Can I keep the leaded glass panel in my old entry door?

Possibly. The standard exempts carved, dalle and leaded glass used in doors, but only where four conditions all hold: the coloring or texturing cannot be removed without destroying the material, the primary purpose is decorative or artistic, the glazing is conspicuously colored or textured so it is plainly identifiable as decorative rather than functional, and it is divided into segments by conspicuous and plainly visible lines. Ask the supplier to confirm against those conditions rather than assuming any stained glass qualifies.

What do the two numbers circled on a door label mean?

They are the solar heat gain coefficient and the U-factor for that door's glass configuration. The NFRC explains that the circled value shows the rating a specific door received based on its glass configuration, split into those two values. On a door label the U-factor range is 0.00 to 2.00, lower being better at keeping heat in, and a low solar heat gain coefficient resists solar heat while a higher one admits it. Compare the label for the exact configuration you are buying.

Does my state license the company that installs my front door?

It depends entirely on the state. California issues the C-17 glazing classification and the C-6 cabinet, millwork and finish carpentry classification, either of which can cover door work. Oregon generally requires anyone working for compensation on improvements to real property to be licensed. Washington requires contractors to register with Labor and Industries and to be bonded and insured, with a public verification tool. Texas lists no window, glazing, door or residential contractor program among the industries its Department of Licensing and Regulation regulates. Start with your own state's agency.

My house was built in the 1960s. What changes for a door replacement?

Who may legally do it. Pulling an old door and its casing disturbs painted surfaces, so the EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule applies: anyone paid to disturb paint in pre-1978 housing must be certified, and firms may not advertise or perform that work without firm certification. Paint testing is not required by the rule, but without documentation that the paint is not lead-based, the requirements apply anyway. Firm certifications run five years, and several states run their own authorized programs.

My home is a manufactured home. Can I fit any entry door I like?

No, and the constraints come from HUD's federal standards rather than from your city. A manufactured home must keep two exterior doors remote from each other, with one exit door reachable from each bedroom doorway within 35 feet of travel. Exterior swinging doors must give a clear opening of at least 28 inches wide by 74 inches high, seals may cut that by no more than an inch, locks must not need a key from the inside, and an outward-opening door needs a safety door check.

Sources

  1. 16 CFR part 1201, Safety Standard for Architectural Glazing Materials: scope, categories, exemptions and labeling — U.S. Government Publishing Office
  2. What makes it ENERGY STAR: criteria for windows, doors and skylights, including door glazing level — ENERGY STAR
  3. Energy performance labels: the window label and the door label — National Fenestration Rating Council
  4. Renovation, Repair and Painting Program: Contractors — U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
  5. Renovation, Repair and Painting Program: firm certification and EPA-authorized state programs — U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
  6. C-17 Glazing Contractor classification — California Contractors State License Board
  7. C-6 Cabinet, Millwork and Finish Carpentry Contractor classification — California Contractors State License Board
  8. Do you need a license? Licensing requirements for construction work — Oregon Construction Contractors Board
  9. Contractor registration, bonding and insurance requirements — Washington State Department of Labor & Industries
  10. Industries and programs the department licenses and regulates — Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation
  11. 24 CFR part 3280, Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards: exit facilities and exterior doors — U.S. Government Publishing Office
  12. Florida Statutes section 553.73, Florida Building Code — The Florida Legislature

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of front door

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare door installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask door installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for front door

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Front door permits and local rules

Some front door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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