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Exterior Doors

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An exterior door does four jobs at once, and most door complaints are one of those four failing. It is a moving part that has to latch and lock. It is a piece of the building's air barrier. It is a hole cut in the water-resistive barrier, which means it depends on flashing and a sill detail like any window. And it is a security element, which is the only one most homeowners think about when they shop.

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The energy side is measurable. ENERGY STAR certifies exterior doors, with performance criteria based on the amount of glass a door has, called its glazing level, and with the ratings behind certification certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council. That is why a mostly glass entry door and a solid one are not held to the same numbers, and why comparing a door on its material alone tells you less than comparing the ratings for the exact model.

The glass is also regulated. The Consumer Product Safety Commission's architectural glazing standard covers glazing material used in doors, storm doors and combination doors, and sliding glass patio doors, so what goes into a door is not simply a style choice. Installation decides the rest: the Department of Energy's Building America guidance puts weatherstripping, a proper door sweep, an air-sealed rough opening and exterior flashing at the center of a door that performs.

Exterior door types found on American houses

  • Hinged entry doors: the front or main door, usually an insulated slab in a prehung frame, and the one where security hardware and glazing choices matter most.
  • Sliding glass patio doors: large glazed openings whose glazing material falls under the federal architectural glazing standard, and whose performance depends on a level sill and clean rollers.
  • Hinged patio and French doors: a pair of operating doors or an operating door with a fixed panel, sealing by compression, so frame squareness and hardware adjustment govern whether they close cleanly.
  • Side, service and back doors: often the most weather-beaten and least maintained doors in the house, and frequently the weakest point for security.
  • Storm and combination doors: a secondary door over the primary one, also covered by the federal glazing standard, adding ventilation options and protecting the finish beneath.
  • Doors between a garage or an unconditioned space and the house: treated by the Building America guidance as an air-sealing priority, with an insulated metal or fiberglass foam-core door and a self-closing arrangement, and additionally governed by whatever your adopted code requires there.
  • Screen and security doors: an added layer over the entry, whose value depends entirely on how the frame is anchored rather than on the door itself.

Door materials and glazing level, and what actually gets compared

Material is where door shopping usually starts and where it should not end. The Building America guidance for doors adjacent to unconditioned space recommends a metal or fiberglass door with an insulated foam core, carrying an ENERGY STAR rating where possible, which is a useful indication of what an efficient door assembly looks like in practice. Wood remains the choice where appearance or a historic context governs, and it asks for more maintenance on a sun-exposed or weather-exposed elevation.

Glazing level is the variable homeowners underestimate. ENERGY STAR sets door criteria according to how much glass the door has, so a full-glass entry, a half-glass door and a solid door are evaluated against different requirements. The moment you add sidelites, a transom or a larger lite, you are changing both the performance the door can reach and, potentially, where safety glazing is required.

Whatever the material, the ratings that count are the certified ones for the specific model, not a general claim about steel versus fiberglass. NFRC, an independent nonprofit certification body for the energy performance of windows, doors and skylights, publishes those certified ratings, and the label on the product is what ties a number to the thing being delivered.

Installing an exterior door so it seals, drains and keeps working

  • The opening is checked for rot and for level at the sill first, because a door set on a soft or out-of-level sill will never latch consistently.
  • Pan flashing goes in at the sill, with side flashing lapped over the pan and head flashing lapped over the sides, the same water-shedding sequence the Building America guidance sets out for window and door openings.
  • The exterior of the door frame is flashed with adhesive or liquid-applied waterproof flashing, and the Building America door guidance ties flashing requirements to IRC Section R703.4.
  • The rough opening is air-sealed with foam backer rod, non-expanding spray foam or caulk, rather than packed with fibrous insulation that air moves straight through.
  • A continuous gasket, such as weatherstripping, is installed around the interior perimeter of the door frame so the closed door seals by compression along its whole length.
  • A tight-fitting door sweep is fitted along the bottom, on the interior side of an in-swinging door and the exterior side of an out-swinging one.
  • The unit is shimmed at the hinges and at the strike, and hinge and strike screws are long enough to reach framing rather than stopping in the jamb, which is both an alignment and a security detail.
  • Products for the opening are expected to meet the testing referenced by the guidance, including AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/I.S.2/A440 and ASTM E330, which is worth asking about on a wind-exposed elevation.

Doors that stick, drop, leak or will not lock

  • A door that binds seasonally: the slab and the frame are moving with humidity, and the fix is usually adjustment at the hinges or the strike rather than a new door.
  • A door that has dropped at the latch corner: loose or worn hinge screws, often solved with longer screws that reach the framing behind the jamb.
  • Daylight visible at the corners: compressed or hardened weatherstripping, or a frame that is no longer square in the opening.
  • Water on the floor inside after wind-driven rain: a failed or missing sill pan, a threshold that has separated, or flashing above that is directing water into the opening.
  • A deadbolt that must be lifted or leaned on to throw: misalignment between bolt and strike, which wears the hardware and eventually leaves the door effectively unlocked.
  • A sliding patio door that drags: worn rollers or a track full of grit, sometimes a sill that has settled, which is a repair long before it is a replacement.
  • Rot at the bottom of a jamb or at the sill: water has been getting in for some time, and the surrounding framing needs to be opened up and assessed rather than patched.
  • A storm door that will not stay shut in wind: a failed closer, a loose mounting rail, or a frame anchored into trim instead of into structure.

Permits, code and older houses when changing an exterior door

Swapping a door into an existing opening and creating a new opening are different projects in the eyes of a building department. Enlarging an opening, cutting a new one, converting a window to a patio door or altering a header changes the structure of a wall, and that is where permits and inspections come in. Since the International Residential Code is adopted or in use in 49 states, the District of Columbia, Guam, Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands and is amended by jurisdictions as they adopt it, the requirements that apply to you are the ones your city or county enforces, including any specific requirements for the door between an attached garage and the living space, and the landing or step arrangement outside a door.

Age of the house adds a federal layer. If the home was built before 1978, work that disturbs painted surfaces is covered by the EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule, which requires paid firms to be certified and their employees trained. Removing an old painted door and its casing disturbs paint by definition, so ask for the firm's certification the same way you would for window work.

One more check belongs here, and it is about who you are hiring rather than what you are installing. Licensing is a state matter: some states license the trade, some license anyone doing construction work for compensation, some require registration with a bond and insurance, and some issue nothing for this work at all. Verify with your own state's agency and the local building department before signing.

Storm doors, glazing and the safety standard behind the glass

A storm or combination door adds a second layer over the entry, gives you a ventilation option in shoulder seasons and shields the primary door's finish from driven rain and sun. It is also a regulated product rather than an accessory. The CPSC's architectural glazing standard, 16 CFR Part 1201, covers glazing material in storm doors and combination doors, in doors generally and in sliding glass patio doors, dealing with glass in its forms including annealed, organic coated, tempered, laminated and wired glass, and requiring testing to the applicable provisions of ANSI Z97.1-2015.

That standard is the reason the glass in a door is not a free choice, and it is worth raising specifically when an entry door is being customized with sidelites, a transom or a larger lite, or when a broken panel in a patio door is being reglazed. Ask what glazing type is being supplied and confirm it is intended for that application rather than being ordinary glass cut to size.

LokalMatch covers the search: describe the door job once, noting whether it is an entry, patio, side or storm door, whether the opening is staying the same size and anything you already know about rot or water at the sill, and door installers working in your area get in touch with you. Those pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install doors, does not set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any company, so the license check where your state requires one, the certified ratings and the warranty terms are yours to compare.

Keeping an exterior door sealing and latching year after year

  • Check the weatherstripping each fall by closing the door on a strip of paper at several points: if it pulls out easily anywhere, the seal has lost compression there.
  • Adjust the threshold where it is adjustable, raising it only until the sweep touches without dragging the door.
  • Tighten hinge screws before the door drops, and replace at least one screw per hinge with a longer one that reaches framing.
  • Lubricate the lock cylinder, the latch and the hinges with the products the hardware maker specifies, and never force a deadbolt that is binding.
  • Renew the exterior sealant around the frame and trim before it cracks through, and keep the sill and the pan below it free of debris.
  • Refinish wood doors and jambs on schedule, paying particular attention to the top and bottom edges of the slab, which are the ones most often left unfinished.
  • Clear sliding door tracks and inspect rollers before they start to drag, which is far cheaper than replacing a sagging panel.
  • Test each lock the way you use it, from outside with a key and from inside, so that a misalignment shows up as an adjustment rather than as a lockout.

Exterior Doors: frequently asked questions

Do I need a permit to replace an exterior door?

Replacing a door in an existing opening often does not, while enlarging the opening, cutting a new one or touching a header usually does. Because the International Residential Code is adopted or in use in 49 states, the District of Columbia, Guam, Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands, and jurisdictions amend it when they adopt it, the only reliable answer comes from your city or county building department. Ask before the door is ordered, not after it has arrived.

Does the glass in my door have to be a special type?

Very likely. The CPSC's architectural glazing standard, 16 CFR Part 1201, covers glazing material in doors, storm and combination doors and sliding glass patio doors, and requires that the products be tested to the applicable provisions of ANSI Z97.1-2015. Your locally adopted residential code separately identifies the places in a house where safety glazing is required. Ask the supplier what glazing type is being provided for that specific location rather than assuming any glass will do.

Is an ENERGY STAR door worth it if it is mostly glass?

The certification already accounts for that. ENERGY STAR sets door performance criteria based on the amount of glass a door has, its glazing level, so a full-glass door is judged against different requirements than a solid one, with the ratings certified by the NFRC. A glazed door can be certified; it simply has to meet the criteria for its glazing level. Compare the certified ratings for the exact model you are being quoted.

My door sticks every summer. Do I need a new one?

Usually not. Seasonal binding is normally the slab and frame moving with humidity, and it is resolved by adjusting hinges, the strike plate or the threshold, or by tightening hinge screws that have loosened. What does point toward replacement is rot at the jamb or sill, a frame that is no longer square in the opening, or repeated water intrusion, all of which mean the opening rather than the door needs attention.

What makes an exterior door installation actually airtight?

Three things working together, according to DOE's Building America guidance: a continuous gasket such as weatherstripping around the interior perimeter of the frame, a tight-fitting door sweep at the bottom, fitted on the interior side of an in-swinging door and the exterior side of an out-swinging one, and a rough opening sealed with foam backer rod, non-expanding spray foam or caulk. Exterior flashing with adhesive or liquid-applied waterproof flashing handles the water side.

My house is pre-1978. Does that affect a door replacement?

Yes. Removing an old painted door and its casing disturbs painted surfaces, which brings the work under the EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule. Firms paid to do that work in a home built before 1978 must be certified and their employees trained in lead-safe practices. Ask for the certification, and expect containment and a proper cleanup as part of the job rather than as an optional extra.

Sources

  1. ENERGY STAR: key product criteria, including doors by glazing level
  2. NFRC: about the National Fenestration Rating Council and certified ratings
  3. CPSC safety standard for architectural glazing materials, 16 CFR Part 1201
  4. DOE Building America Solution Center: air sealing doors adjacent to unconditioned space
  5. DOE Building America Solution Center: fully flashed window and door openings
  6. ICC: International Residential Code adoption in the United States
  7. EPA: Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Program

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of door installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare door installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask door installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for door installation

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Door installation permits and local rules

Some door installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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