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Cabinet Repair

Cabinet Repair near you

Most cabinet complaints are not about cabinets. They are about hardware that has worn, a leak that went unnoticed, or a cabinet that was never fastened into framing in the first place. That is good news, because all three are fixable for a fraction of what replacement costs, and a competent carpenter can usually deal with a house full of them in a day or two.

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The repairs that come up again and again are a short list: doors that no longer line up, hinges that have lost their adjustment or torn out of a particleboard end, drawers that bind or fall out because a slide has failed, shelves that have taken a permanent sag, face frames that have come loose from their boxes, edge banding lifting, a toe kick kicked to pieces, and the sink cabinet, which is a category of its own.

The sink cabinet is where cabinet repair stops being carpentry and starts being a water problem. A slow supply or drain leak behind a cabinet floor can run for months before anyone sees it, and by then the box is swollen, the floor beneath may be damp and there may be mold. Fixing the cabinet without finding and stopping the water is the most common way people pay for the same repair twice.

What each cabinet symptom usually means

  • Doors out of alignment across a run: a hinge that has slipped its adjustment, or a hinge plate that has pulled loose from a particleboard cabinet side.
  • A door that will not stay closed: a worn hinge, or a cabinet that has racked slightly because the box is no longer square.
  • A drawer that drags, tips or falls out: a damaged or bent slide, or slides that were never mounted parallel to each other.
  • A permanently bowed shelf: a span too long for the material, usually loaded with plates, books or small appliances.
  • A soft, dark or swollen cabinet bottom: water, almost always from a supply connection, a drain joint or a dishwasher, and the cabinet is the symptom.
  • A face frame that moves when you pull on it: glue and fasteners that have let go, common in older cabinets and easy to correct before it spreads.
  • A wall cabinet that has dropped or tilted away from the wall at the top: fasteners that never reached framing, which is a safety issue rather than a cosmetic one.
  • Edge banding peeling or thermofoil lifting beside an oven or a dishwasher vent: heat and steam acting on the adhesive over time.

The sink cabinet: water first, carpentry second

Under-sink damage follows a pattern. A connection weeps slowly, the water sits on a laminated particleboard floor that has no finish on its underside, the material swells and loses strength, and because the area is dark and full of cleaning supplies nobody looks until a door stops closing or the bottom gives way. Replacing the cabinet floor at that point is straightforward. Replacing it without finding the leak means doing it again.

If the wet area has grown mold, EPA's homeowner guidance is the useful yardstick: it advises that in general you can handle the cleanup yourself if the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet, which is roughly a three foot by three foot patch, and that for larger areas or significant water damage you should consider a contractor with mold cleanup experience. A cabinet interior is often within that threshold, but the wall cavity or subfloor behind it may not be, and that is the point to get a second opinion instead of pressing on.

The sequence that actually works is fix the plumbing, dry everything thoroughly, assess what has to be replaced, then rebuild. A cabinet repair scheduled before the plumber has been is scheduled in the wrong order, and a carpenter who says so is telling you something useful rather than turning down work.

Repairs that are genuinely worth doing

Nearly every part of a cabinet except the box itself can be replaced without touching the rest of the kitchen, and the parts are widely available. These are the jobs that come up most.

  • Hinge adjustment and replacement, including moving a hinge plate to fresh material or installing a repair plate where a screw has torn out of a particleboard side.
  • Drawer slide replacement, which is also the moment to consider upgrading to full-extension slides on the drawers you use most.
  • Rebuilding a drawer box whose bottom has dropped or whose corners have come apart, usually cheaper than a new drawer and much quicker.
  • Replacing a damaged cabinet floor, most often under a sink, with a properly sealed material rather than the unfinished panel that failed.
  • Re-gluing and refastening a loose face frame, and re-squaring a box that has racked.
  • Adding a shelf support, a center standard or a thicker shelf where a sagging span is the real problem.
  • Re-anchoring wall cabinets into studs or into blocking, and correcting a run that was hung on drywall fasteners.
  • Replacing edge banding, repairing a chipped corner, and touching up finish so that the repair stops being visible.

A wall cabinet that is not screwed into framing

Cabinets are heavy before you put anything in them, and a loaded upper cabinet full of plates is a lot of weight hanging on whatever fasteners were used. If a cabinet has tilted away from the wall at the top, if the screws are turning without tightening, or if the only thing behind the screw is drywall, that cabinet should be emptied and re-hung rather than nudged back.

CPSC's national tip-over reporting puts numbers on why this is treated as a safety issue rather than a maintenance one. Its 2023 annual report found an estimated annual average of 17,800 emergency department-treated injuries from product instability or tip-over incidents between 2020 and 2022, of which an estimated 14,500 involved furniture. Children under 18 took 7,800 of those injuries, or 44 percent, while making up 22 percent of the population.

For a tall or free-standing cabinet, CPSC's consumer advice is direct: anchor furniture such as bookcases and dressers securely to the wall, and store heavier items on lower shelves. The same logic applies inside a kitchen. Heavy stoneware belongs in a base cabinet drawer rather than in a wall cabinet whose attachment nobody has inspected since the house was built.

Repairing, refacing or replacing: choosing between three different jobs

Repair is the right answer when the boxes are sound and the complaint is mechanical: hinges, slides, alignment, a sagging shelf, a single damaged cabinet floor. These are hours of work, not a project, and they do not disturb the rest of the kitchen.

Refacing becomes the better answer when the boxes are still sound but you dislike how the kitchen looks, since it changes every visible surface without touching the layout. Replacement is the right answer when the boxes themselves have failed, when several have water damage, when the run has to change size, or when the layout is the real complaint and no amount of hardware will fix it.

The honest test is to separate the two questions you are actually asking. Does the kitchen work for the way you cook, and do the cabinets function mechanically. If the answer to the first is yes and the second is no, repair. If the first is no, no repair will satisfy you, and the money is better spent on the layout.

Keeping cabinets out of the repair cycle

  • Look under the sink with a flashlight every few months, including at the back corners, and feel the cabinet floor with your hand rather than trusting a glance.
  • Put a leak detector or even a light-colored tray under the sink plumbing, so the first sign of a drip is visible instead of absorbed.
  • Tighten cabinet pulls and hinge screws once a year; most alignment complaints start as a loose screw and become a stripped hole.
  • Wipe spills and steam off cabinet faces near the dishwasher and the range, since heat and moisture are what lift edge banding and thermofoil.
  • Do not hang a wet dish towel over a cabinet door for hours at a time; that is a slow soak on a finished edge.
  • Distribute weight: heavy stacks belong low and near a shelf support rather than in the middle of a long span in a wall cabinet.
  • Adjust soft-close hardware when it starts slamming rather than living with it, because the shock loosens joints over time.

What a cabinet repair visit is priced on, and how LokalMatch fits in

Cabinet repair is usually priced as time plus parts, and the parts are rarely the expensive half. What moves an American quote is how many cabinets and drawers are involved, whether hardware is being matched to an existing line or standardized across the kitchen, whether a box has to be partially rebuilt, whether water damage means removing a cabinet to work on it, whether the plumbing has to be disconnected and reconnected by another trade, how much finish matching is needed so the repair disappears, and travel to your area for what may be a short visit. Grouping small repairs into a single trip is the cheapest thing you can do.

LokalMatch handles only the introduction. You describe the problem once: how many cabinets, what is wrong, whether there is water involved, and the rough age of the kitchen. Carpenters and cabinet repair specialists covering your area get the request and those with availability contact you. Pros pay for the requests they receive, and the service costs homeowners nothing. LokalMatch does not repair cabinets, does not set or suggest prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend the professionals who respond, so checking insurance and agreeing the scope in writing remains your responsibility.

Cabinet Repair: frequently asked questions

My cabinet doors will not line up. Can that be fixed without new doors?

Usually yes. Concealed hinges adjust in three directions, and most misalignment across a run is a hinge that has slipped or a hinge plate whose screws have pulled out of the cabinet side. A repair plate or a move to fresh material fixes the stripped hole. New doors are only the answer when the doors themselves are damaged or when the box has racked so far that the hinge has no adjustment left.

The bottom of my sink cabinet is soft. What do I do first?

Find and stop the water before touching the carpentry. A slow supply or drain leak can run for months in a dark cabinet, and replacing the floor without fixing the plumbing means doing it twice. Once the leak is fixed, dry everything thoroughly and then look at what has to be replaced, including whether the damage extends past the cabinet into the floor or the wall.

There is mold under my sink. Can I clean it myself?

EPA's guidance is that in general you can handle the cleanup yourself if the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet, roughly a three foot by three foot patch, and that for larger areas or significant water damage you should consider hiring a contractor experienced in mold cleanup. A cabinet interior often falls under that threshold, but if the wall or subfloor behind it is involved, that is the moment to get a professional opinion rather than press on.

Can old drawers be upgraded to soft-close slides?

Often, yes, and it is one of the most satisfying small upgrades in a kitchen. The constraint is the cabinet: undermount slides need a drawer box of the right height and a square opening, while side-mount slides are more forgiving. A carpenter can tell you in one visit which of your drawers will take which type, and it is usually worth doing the drawers you open every day rather than all of them.

How do I know if my wall cabinets are properly attached?

Empty one and look at the fasteners along the back rail. Screws should land in wall framing or in blocking, not in drywall anchors, and the cabinet should not move when you pull on it. A cabinet that has tilted away from the wall at the top, or whose screws turn without tightening, should be emptied and re-hung. CPSC's tip-over data shows cabinets and shelving units account for thousands of emergency department-treated injuries a year.

Is it worth repairing cabinets that are twenty-five years old?

It depends entirely on the boxes and on whether the kitchen works for you. Well-built boxes of any age are worth keeping, and hardware is a consumable that is meant to be replaced. If the layout suits how you cook and the boxes are square, dry and firmly attached, repair is good value. If several boxes are water damaged or the layout is the actual complaint, spend the money on a different job.

Sources

  1. EPA: Mold Cleanup in Your Home
  2. CPSC: Product Instability or Tip-Over Injuries and Fatalities Associated with Televisions, Furniture, and Appliances, 2023 Annual Report
  3. CPSC: Anchor It! campaign marks 10 years

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 21, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of cabinet repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare carpenters before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask carpenters before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Cabinet repair permits and local rules

Some cabinet repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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