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Cabinet Refacing

Cabinet Refacing near you

Refacing keeps the cabinet boxes and changes everything you can see. New doors and drawer fronts are made to the existing openings, the face frames and exposed end panels are covered with a matching veneer or laminate, new hinges and pulls go on, and the kitchen reads as new while the layout, the plumbing and the countertops stay exactly where they are. It is a one-trade job in an occupied house that usually runs in days rather than weeks.

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That makes it a good answer to a narrow question and a bad answer to a broad one. If the boxes are square, dry and strong, and the kitchen already works the way you cook, refacing is the cheapest honest route to a different-looking room. If the layout is the problem, if there is water damage under the sink, or if you want different cabinet sizes and interiors, refacing will hide the problem for a while and then you will pay for it twice.

Two American specifics are worth knowing before anyone quotes. Sanding and prying at old cabinet faces in a house built before 1978 disturbs paint, which brings a federal certification requirement with it. And the new doors and the veneer are composite wood products, which sit inside the EPA formaldehyde standards that cover panels and the finished goods made from them.

What refacing replaces and what it leaves in place

Refacing is sold under several names and the scopes vary widely, which is the main reason quotes are hard to compare. Establish which of these your quote includes.

  • New doors and drawer fronts, made to the existing openings in whatever style and material you choose.
  • Veneer or laminate applied over the face frames and any exposed cabinet ends, which is what makes the old boxes disappear.
  • New hinges, often an upgrade from an older visible hinge to a concealed soft-close one, which changes how the doors sit.
  • New drawer boxes or new slides, which are frequently a separate line and are the upgrade people notice most in daily use.
  • New moldings: crown at the top of the uppers, light rail underneath, toe kick and filler strips refaced to match.
  • Optional additions such as a pull-out shelf inside an existing cabinet, a new panel on a dishwasher, or one added cabinet at the end of a run.
  • What stays: the boxes themselves, the layout, the interior shelving, the countertop, the sink and everything behind the wall.

When refacing is the wrong answer for your kitchen

Refacing depends entirely on the boxes being worth keeping, so the inspection before the quote matters more than any product choice. Open every door, pull every drawer out, and look at the cabinet under the sink with a flashlight.

Say no to refacing if the boxes are swollen or crumbling from a leak, if a particleboard bottom has lost its shape, if shelves have sagged permanently, if the face frames are loose from their boxes, or if a run has dropped because it was never fastened into framing properly. Say no as well if the real complaint is the layout, if you want deeper drawers instead of doors with shelves behind them, or if the cabinets are so shallow or so tall that the kitchen never worked.

There is a middle path people forget. Refinishing the existing doors, rather than replacing them, is cheaper again and works well on solid wood and paintable surfaces; it does not work on a thermofoil or laminate face, which will not hold a coating. And in a house from before 1978, refinishing means sanding painted cabinetry, which is exactly the activity the federal lead rule governs.

Wood veneer, rigid thermofoil, laminate and solid doors

The material chosen for the door and for the face frame covering decides how the kitchen ages, and the two do not have to be the same thing. Solid wood doors with a wood veneer over the frames give the most seamless result in a stained finish. Painted doors are usually medium-density fiberboard, which gives a flat uniform surface with no joints to open. Rigid thermofoil is a vinyl film heat-formed over an MDF core, which is inexpensive and uniform but can delaminate over time, particularly next to a heat source such as an oven or a dishwasher vent. Laminate is tough and easy to clean and reads as a modern flat slab.

The federal rule that touches all of this is EPA's formaldehyde program under Title VI of the Toxic Substances Control Act, which covers hardwood plywood, medium-density fiberboard and particleboard, along with household and other finished goods containing these products. A replacement cabinet door is one of those finished goods. The limits match California's CARB Phase II, compliance is verified by EPA-recognized third-party certifiers, and EPA states that after March 22, 2019 composite wood products must be labeled as TSCA Title VI compliant.

Refacing also brings adhesives into an occupied house in quantity, since contact cement or its equivalent is what holds veneer to a face frame. Ventilate the kitchen generously while the work is happening and for a few days afterward, and ask the crew what they are using and what its label says about ventilation.

Sanding old cabinet faces in a house built before 1978

Refacing starts with preparation, and preparation means scuffing, sanding and prying at surfaces that in an older kitchen were very likely painted at some point. EPA requires that anyone paid to perform work that disturbs painted surfaces in homes, childcare facilities and preschools built before 1978 be certified, and firms may not perform covered renovations without that certification and lead-safe work practices.

This catches homeowners off guard because refacing feels like decorating rather than renovation. It is not the new door that triggers the rule; it is the sanding of the old face frame, the removal of a painted end panel, or the prying off of a painted molding. Kitchens are also among the hardest rooms to contain dust in, because the surfaces people prepare food on are right there.

So in a pre-1978 house, the questions are simple and worth asking before signing: is the firm EPA lead-safe certified, who on the crew is the certified renovator, and how will the work area be contained and cleaned each day. A refacing company that works constantly in older housing stock will have a ready answer.

How a refacing job runs in a kitchen people are still cooking in

  • Measurement of every opening individually, since the new doors are made to the boxes that exist rather than to a nominal size.
  • Inspection of the boxes for water damage, loose face frames, sagging shelves and cabinets that are not properly fastened to the wall framing.
  • Door and finish selection with a physical sample seen in your own kitchen light, not from a printed chart.
  • Manufacturing time for the doors and drawer fronts, which is when nothing appears to happen and is usually the longest part of the schedule.
  • Removal of the old doors, drawer fronts and hardware, then preparation of the face frames, with containment planned in a pre-1978 house.
  • Veneer or laminate applied to face frames and exposed ends, followed by moldings and any new drawer boxes or slides.
  • New doors hung and every hinge adjusted so that gaps between doors are even, followed by a punch list and one return visit after the doors have settled.

Peeling veneer, bubbled thermofoil and doors that will not line up

  • Veneer lifting at a face frame edge, usually where the frame was not cleaned and scuffed properly before the adhesive went on.
  • Thermofoil peeling or discoloring beside an oven, a toaster oven slot or a dishwasher vent, which is heat doing what heat does to a film over a core.
  • Doors that no longer line up across a run, which is often the old boxes being out of alignment rather than the new doors being wrong.
  • Gaps at the wall where a refaced end panel meets an out-of-plumb wall, which needs a scribed filler rather than a bead of caulk.
  • Swollen box bottoms under the sink discovered only after the doors are off, which is the moment to stop and reassess rather than cover.
  • Hinges that will not adjust out an error, because a concealed hinge has a limited range and the box itself is racked.
  • A finish on the new doors that does not match the veneer on the frames in daylight, which is why samples get approved in the actual room.

What drives a refacing quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Refacing is priced by the number of doors and drawer fronts and by how much face frame has to be covered, so the count is the first thing to establish. What moves an American quote from there is the door style and material, whether the finish is painted or stained, how many exposed cabinet ends and refrigerator or dishwasher panels are involved, whether drawer boxes and slides are replaced or reused, whether hinges are upgraded, how much molding is added, the condition of the boxes and any repairs they need first, and whether the house predates 1978 and needs a lead-safe certified firm. Ask for the door and drawer count and a clear statement of what is being replaced versus covered.

LokalMatch is where you start, not who does the work. You describe the kitchen once: roughly how many doors and drawers, the age of the house, what you want the room to look like, and whether anything is damaged. Refacing specialists and cabinet contractors covering your area get the request, and the ones interested reach out to you. They pay for the requests they receive; you pay nothing for the introduction. LokalMatch does not reface cabinets, does not set or suggest prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend the companies that respond, so verifying certification, insurance and the written scope is yours to do.

Cabinet Refacing: frequently asked questions

Is refacing the same as refinishing?

No. Refinishing strips or scuffs and recoats the doors you already have, so the door style stays the same. Refacing replaces the doors and drawer fronts entirely and covers the face frames and exposed ends with veneer or laminate, so the style can change completely. Refinishing is cheaper but does not work on thermofoil or laminate surfaces, which will not hold a new coating.

How do I know whether my cabinet boxes are worth keeping?

Look with a flashlight before anyone quotes. Boxes worth refacing are square, dry, firmly fastened to the wall framing, with face frames tight to the boxes and shelves that have not permanently sagged. Swollen or crumbling material under the sink, a loose face frame, or a run that has dropped are all reasons to stop and price replacement instead, because refacing covers those problems rather than fixing them.

Does refacing trigger the EPA lead rule in an old kitchen?

It can, and it is worth settling before work starts. EPA requires certification for anyone paid to perform work that disturbs painted surfaces in homes built before 1978, and firms may not perform covered renovations without it. Refacing preparation means sanding and prying at old painted face frames and moldings, which is exactly that kind of disturbance. Ask whether the firm is lead-safe certified and how the kitchen will be contained and cleaned.

Will new doors be made to fit my existing openings?

Yes, that is the whole premise. Each opening is measured individually and the doors and drawer fronts are manufactured to those measurements, which is why the measuring visit matters and why there is a manufacturing wait afterwards. It also means that if the existing boxes are out of alignment with each other, the new doors will show it, so any box that is racked or loose should be corrected first.

Do refaced cabinets give off formaldehyde?

New doors and veneers are composite wood, so EPA's TSCA Title VI limits apply to them and to the finished goods they go into, and EPA has required TSCA Title VI compliance labeling since March 22, 2019. The larger practical issue during a refacing job is the adhesive, since gluing veneer to every face frame puts a lot of solvent into a kitchen over a couple of days. Open windows, run the range hood, and keep the room ventilated for several days after the crew leaves.

How long does a kitchen refacing take?

The on-site work for a typical kitchen is usually a matter of days, and you can normally keep using the kitchen through most of it. What sets the calendar is the manufacturing time for the doors and drawer fronts, which is ordered after the measuring visit. Ask for that lead time in writing, and expect one short return visit after the doors have settled to fine-tune the hinges.

Sources

  1. EPA: Renovation, Repair and Painting Program
  2. EPA: Formaldehyde Emission Standards for Composite Wood Products

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 21, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of cabinet refacing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare cabinet installers before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask cabinet installers before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Cabinet refacing permits and local rules

Some cabinet refacing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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