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Audio & Video Installation

Audio & Video Installation near you

Audio-video installation is the general version of the trade: televisions mounted in ordinary rooms, speakers in ceilings and on patios, a rack that holds the sources, cable routed through a finished house, and a control system that leaves the household able to turn things on without a tutorial. It overlaps with a dedicated theater room but most of the work is nothing like it, because the constraint is an existing house rather than a purpose-built space.

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The credential question catches people out here, because speaker wire looks harmless and low-voltage work is licensed in a number of states anyway. Washington is a clear example: its limited energy system specialty, the 06 electrical certificate, covers the installation, repair, replacement and maintenance of signaling and power-limited circuits and related equipment, and the scope expressly names commercial and residential amplified sound and public address systems alongside telecommunications, fire protection signaling, intrusion alarms, lighting control and energy management. The state also requires 4,000 hours of experience for that specialty and supervision of trainees at least 75 percent of the time.

So the honest first question for an AV company is not which brands they carry. It is which credential they hold in your state, what it covers, and who does the line-voltage work when a new circuit or an in-wall switch is part of the job.

What AV installers do around a house

  • Television mounting in living rooms, bedrooms, kitchens and outdoor spaces, including concealing the cables inside the wall rather than in a plastic channel on it.
  • Whole-home audio: in-ceiling and in-wall speakers zoned by room, amplified centrally and controlled from a phone or a keypad.
  • Outdoor audio on patios, decks and around pools, where the speakers must be rated for weather and aimed toward the house rather than the neighbors.
  • Equipment racks and closets, with ventilation, power, cable management and enough access to service what is in them.
  • Source and streaming devices, receivers and amplifiers, chosen for the zones they actually have to drive.
  • Control and automation of the AV layer, so one action turns on the display, selects the source and sets the volume.
  • Cable infrastructure: pulling, terminating and testing runs, and leaving a pull string so the next upgrade does not mean opening the wall.
  • Retrofit work in finished houses, which is mostly a problem of route-finding through attics, basements, chases and closets.

Low-voltage licensing: the credential that covers speaker wire

There is no national low-voltage license, so the question is always what your own state requires. Washington regulates this work as an electrical specialty: the 06 limited energy system certificate covers signaling and power-limited circuits and related equipment, including commercial and residential amplified sound and public address systems, and the state requires 4,000 hours of experience for the specialty, with trainees supervised at least 75 percent of the time by a specialty electrician certified for that work or by a journey-level electrician, plus 48 hours of basic classroom instruction.

Where the same company also installs security equipment, a separate security credential often applies. New York licenses the individual security or fire alarm installer, defined as a person who holds themselves out as able, or offers or undertakes, to install, service or maintain a security or fire alarm system to detect intrusion, break-in, movement, sound or fire, on a two-year license. California licenses the alarm company operator through the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services, requires the qualified manager to pass an examination, requires alarm agents to be registered, and runs criminal history background checks on operators, qualified managers and agents through the state Department of Justice and the FBI. Tennessee licenses alarm systems contractors and registers qualifying agents and employees.

Line-voltage work is its own question again. A new dedicated circuit for a rack, an in-wall dimmer, a relocated outlet behind a television or a new switch leg is electrical work licensed by your state, whoever is holding the screwdriver. Ask which parts of the proposal are low-voltage and which are electrical, ask who holds which credential, and verify numbers with the issuing agency rather than accepting a card.

Cable routing, wall penetrations and doing it once

  • Agree every device location on site with the household before anything is cut, because a mount 4 inches off is a patch and a repaint.
  • Find the route first: attic, basement, closet or chase, and confirm it is clear of ductwork, plumbing and existing wiring before opening a wall.
  • Use cable rated for its environment, including in-wall and in-ceiling ratings and the rating required where a cavity is used to move air, which your inspector can confirm for your jurisdiction.
  • Seal every penetration through a fire-rated assembly, a floor, a garage ceiling or an exterior wall with the appropriate material, since an unsealed hole is both a fire path and an air leak.
  • Keep low-voltage cable away from parallel runs of line-voltage wiring and cross it at right angles where it must cross, to keep hum out of the audio.
  • Leave a pull string and a little slack at every termination, which is the cheapest thing on the whole job and the one that saves the next one.
  • Label both ends of every run and photograph the walls before they close, then give the photographs to the homeowner.
  • Test each run before finishes go back, because a bad termination behind drywall is a much worse problem than a bad termination in an open wall.

Cable and connections that outlive the equipment

Equipment gets replaced every few years and cable does not, so the cable is where the long-term value of an installation sits. In-wall runs should be specified for the wall rather than for the box they came in: cable listed for in-wall use, with the appropriate rating for the space it passes through, is a code question in most jurisdictions and worth confirming with the building department rather than guessing.

Terminations matter more than the cable brand. A well-made termination in a wall plate, with strain relief and a service loop, survives a television being pulled off the wall and put back; a bare cable stuffed through a hole does not. Where a long video run is involved, ask what happens if a future source needs more bandwidth than today's, and whether the route allows a replacement run without opening finished surfaces.

Outdoors, everything changes. Speakers, mounts, fasteners and cable have to be rated for weather and for the specific exposure, penetrations into the building envelope have to be flashed and sealed from above rather than merely caulked, and hardware near a pool or the coast faces corrosion that inland hardware never sees. Buried cable needs the right jacket and the right depth for your jurisdiction, which is a question for the local authority rather than for a catalog.

Why a system that worked on install day stopped working

AV callbacks cluster around a small number of causes, and knowing them in advance turns a service visit into a two-minute conversation. Most are avoidable at design or commissioning.

  • A hum that appeared after another device was plugged in, which is almost always a ground loop rather than a faulty amplifier.
  • A source that no longer appears, after a device update changed how it negotiates with the display.
  • An equipment rack in a closed cabinet cooking itself, which shortens the life of everything in it and causes intermittent faults first.
  • Wireless speakers and streamers dropping out because they sit at the edge of Wi-Fi coverage that was never measured.
  • A control system that only the person who commissioned it understands, so the household reverts to three remotes within a month.
  • Outdoor speakers failing at the terminals, where water has tracked down the cable into the connection rather than through the speaker itself.
  • Volume limits never set, so a zone can be driven hard enough to damage ceiling speakers that nobody can see.
  • A firmware update applied to one device in a chain and not the others, leaving the system half a version apart.

Outdoor speakers, neighbors and local rules

Outdoor audio is the part of an AV installation most likely to generate a complaint, and the rules are written locally. Noise limits, quiet hours and how they are measured are set by city or county ordinance and vary widely, so the only reliable answer is your own municipality's code rather than a general rule of thumb. Ask before the speakers go in, particularly on a small lot or in a dense neighborhood.

Design choices do most of the work regardless of what the ordinance says. More small speakers at lower volume, distributed around the space and aimed back toward the house, put sound where people are sitting instead of over the fence. A single pair turned up to cover a whole yard is the arrangement that carries. Landscape speakers sited low and among planting are less directional at the property line than speakers mounted high under a soffit.

Two settings are worth insisting on at commissioning: a volume ceiling for outdoor zones, and a schedule or reminder that matches local quiet hours. Where the property is governed by a homeowners association or a lease, check the documents for rules on exterior fixtures and amplified sound before anything is mounted, and get any permission in writing.

Keeping an AV system serviceable

  • Keep the rack ventilated and clear the dust from filters and fans, since heat is the main enemy of amplifiers and processors.
  • Apply firmware updates across the whole chain rather than to one device, and note the versions somewhere outside the equipment.
  • Check outdoor speaker terminals and mounts each spring for corrosion, water tracking and loosened fasteners.
  • Re-check wall mounts for tightness once a year, particularly articulating arms that get moved regularly.
  • Keep the labeled cable schedule and the in-wall photographs somewhere findable, because they make the next job far cheaper.
  • Confirm that the household can still operate the system after any control app update, and fix it before somebody gives up on it.
  • Retire and disconnect devices you no longer use rather than leaving them powered and connected to the network.

What moves an AV installation quote, and how LokalMatch fits

On LokalMatch you post the job once: which rooms, how many displays and zones, whether outdoor audio is included, and your ZIP code. Audio-video and low-voltage companies working that area receive it and the ones with capacity contact you. They pay for the requests they receive; a homeowner posting one pays nothing. LokalMatch does not install equipment, does not set or negotiate prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any company, so asking which state credential covers each part of the work, and verifying it, remains your job.

  • The number of zones and displays, which drives amplification, cabling and commissioning time together.
  • Whether the walls are open, since the same run costs a fraction of the retrofit price during construction.
  • Construction type: plaster and lath, masonry, concrete floors and finished basements all slow cable routing down.
  • In-ceiling and in-wall speakers versus placed speakers, which turns a purchase into carpentry and patching.
  • Outdoor work, with weather-rated hardware, sealed penetrations and buried or protected cable.
  • Whether a licensed electrician is needed for circuits, switches or relocated outlets.
  • Rack construction and whether a ventilated, accessible location exists or has to be created.
  • Control system programming and household training, which is labor and the line that determines whether the system gets used.

Audio & Video Installation: frequently asked questions

Does an AV installer need a license to run speaker wire?

In several states, yes, and it is an electrical specialty rather than a hobby exemption. Washington's 06 limited energy system certificate covers signaling and power-limited circuits and related equipment and expressly names commercial and residential amplified sound and public address systems, with 4,000 hours of experience required for the specialty and trainees supervised at least 75 percent of the time. Other states regulate this differently or not at all. Ask which credential the company holds where you live, ask what it covers, and confirm the number with the issuing agency rather than taking a printed card at face value.

Can the installer hide the cables inside the wall?

Usually, and it is the right way to do it, but it has to use cable listed for in-wall use with the correct rating for the space it passes through, and any penetration of a fire-rated assembly, a garage ceiling or an exterior wall must be properly sealed. Those are code questions answered by your building department for your jurisdiction, not by a cable's packaging. Where a wall cannot be opened, a surface raceway is an honest compromise. What should not happen is an ordinary patch cable pushed through a hole in the drywall.

How loud can outdoor speakers be?

That is set by your city or county ordinance, and the limits, the quiet hours and the way sound is measured differ enough that a general answer would be misleading. Check the local code before installation, and check any homeowners association rules or lease terms about exterior fixtures and amplified sound as well. Design helps more than the rule does: several smaller speakers at low volume, aimed back toward the house, deliver good sound to the patio without carrying to the property line the way one loud pair does. Ask for a volume ceiling to be set on outdoor zones at commissioning.

Why does my system hum through the speakers?

Most often a ground loop, created when two connected pieces of equipment reach ground by different paths, commonly through a cable television connection or a separate outlet on a different circuit. It is a wiring and interconnection problem, not a sign the amplifier is failing, and it usually has a fixable cause. It is also why a competent installer keeps low-voltage runs away from parallel line-voltage wiring and crosses them at right angles where they must cross. Do not solve it by defeating a ground pin on a power plug, which creates a shock hazard; have the interconnection sorted out properly.

How does LokalMatch work for audio-video installation?

You describe the work once: which rooms, how many televisions and audio zones, whether outdoor speakers are in scope, whether walls are open, and your ZIP code. Audio-video and low-voltage installers covering that area see the request and the interested ones contact you directly. Companies pay for those requests; posting one is free for homeowners. LokalMatch does not perform installation, does not supply equipment, does not set or negotiate prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any company, so licensing, insurance and references are yours to check.

Sources

  1. WAC 296-46B-920: Washington specialty electrician scopes of work
  2. Washington L&I: electrician certification and specialties
  3. New York Department of State: security or fire alarm installer
  4. California BSIS: alarm company operator, qualified manager and alarm agent
  5. Tennessee Alarm Systems Contractors licensing program

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 21, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of audio and video

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number of cameras, sensors or devices
  • Wired or wireless installation
  • Monitoring and subscription fees
  • Running cables through finished walls or ceilings
  • Size and layout of the home
  • Integration with other smart home or network equipment

How to compare AV installers before you hire

  • Choose an installer who looks at your home in person and explains where cameras, sensors or access points should go.
  • Ask whether monitoring is included, whether it's optional and what the contract length and cancellation terms are.
  • Find out whether you'll own the equipment or lease it, and whether it works with other systems.
  • For hardwired systems, make sure any electrical work is done by a licensed electrician.
  • Ask how they'll set up passwords, apps and network security, and make sure you get the admin access.

Questions to ask AV installers before you hire

  • Will I own the equipment, or is it leased or tied to a contract?
  • Is monitoring required, and what are the cancellation terms?
  • Where will the cameras point, and will they capture my neighbours' property?
  • Who will have access to the video and the account?
  • Will this work with my existing Wi-Fi, locks or smart home devices?
  • What warranty covers the equipment and the installation?

Audio and video permits and local rules

Some audio and video work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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