Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless Water Heaters near you
Tankless water heater is the American name for an appliance that heats water as it flows instead of storing it. Britain sells the same idea under different names: a combi boiler, which heats the radiators and makes hot water on demand from the mains; a multipoint or instantaneous gas water heater, which only makes hot water; and electric instantaneous heaters, including the electric shower that is by far the most common example in British homes.
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Two legal threads run through this work, and only one of them is about plumbing. Gas is the strict one: regulation 3 of the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 says no person shall carry out any work in relation to a gas fitting unless he is competent to do so, and no employer may allow an employee, and no self-employed person may, carry out such work unless they belong to a class of persons approved by the Health and Safety Executive. In practice that class is the Gas Safe Register, and HSE's own advice is that anyone working on gas appliances in domestic premises must be registered and competent for that type of work.
The second thread is that an instantaneous appliance is judged on flow rather than on capacity. There is no cylinder to run out, so the useful question is how much hot water it can deliver each minute and how cold the water arriving at the house is.
What Britain calls a tankless water heater
- Combi boiler: one appliance that runs the central heating and heats mains water on demand, with no hot water cylinder and no cold water cistern in the loft.
- Multipoint instantaneous gas water heater: makes hot water for several outlets but does no central heating, and is still found in flats and older houses.
- Single-point gas water heater: a small appliance serving one outlet, typically over a kitchen sink.
- Electric instantaneous heaters over a basin or sink: units for a cloakroom, a garden room or an outbuilding where running a hot pipe from the main system is not worth the work.
- Electric showers: an instantaneous heater in all but name, heating cold mains water as it passes on the way to the shower head, and limited by the electrical supply rather than by the gas.
- Stored systems for comparison: an unvented or vented cylinder, or a heat pump with a cylinder, all keep a reserve of hot water and answer a different question about how the household uses it.
Flow rate and temperature rise: why an instantaneous appliance is rated on a flow, not a volume
An appliance with no store can only heat what passes through it. Its useful output is therefore a combination of two things: how many litres a minute it can pass, and how far it can lift the temperature of that water on the way. Open a second tap and the same heat is shared between two outlets, which is why a household running a shower and a kitchen tap at once notices an instantaneous appliance in a way that a household with a cylinder does not.
The incoming water is the part people forget. Mains water arriving at a British house is markedly colder in February than in August, so the same appliance has to work harder in winter to reach the same temperature, and it does that by passing less water. A shower that was acceptable in summer and disappointing in winter is usually not broken; it is being asked for a bigger temperature rise at the same flow.
The incoming main sets the ceiling too. If the supply pipe cannot deliver a decent flow into the house, no instantaneous appliance will deliver a decent flow out of it, which is why the measurement at the stopcock belongs at the survey stage rather than after the appliance is on the wall.
The law around a combi or instantaneous water heater across the UK
Gas first, because it is not negotiable. The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 restrict work on gas fittings to competent people within an HSE-approved class of persons, and every registered engineer carries an ID card recording which appliances they are qualified to work on. HSE also states plainly that it is illegal for anyone to use a gas appliance if they suspect it is unsafe, and that an appliance suspected of being unsafe should be turned off and left alone until a Gas Safe registered engineer has checked it. HSE runs a free gas safety advice line and lists ways to confirm an engineer's registration before work starts.
The water fittings rules treat instantaneous heaters differently from cylinders, and this is the point most often misunderstood. Schedule 2 to the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 imposes its vent pipe, temperature control, temperature relief and combined temperature and pressure relief requirements on every unvented water heater, but expressly excludes an instantaneous water heater with a capacity not greater than 15 litres. Approved Document G agrees, saying water heaters with a capacity of 15 litres or less that have appropriate safety devices for temperature and pressure will generally satisfy Requirement G3(3). A combi is not an unvented cylinder and does not bring the unvented cylinder regime with it.
Electrical work is its own trade. Approved Document G expects electric instantaneous water heaters to comply with the relevant British and European standard for household appliances, and in England electrical work in dwellings sits under Part P of the Building Regulations, so an electric shower or an over-sink heater usually needs an electrician as well as a plumber. Scotland and Northern Ireland apply their own building standards and their own water fittings rules, the Northern Irish ones made in 2009.
The faults that belong to heating water as it flows
- The cold water sandwich: a slug of cooled water arrives between two draws, because the appliance has to fire again after the tap was briefly closed.
- Scale on a plate heat exchanger, which narrows the passages the water is heated in and usually shows as falling hot flow before it shows as falling temperature.
- A flow switch or sensor that no longer registers a tap being opened, so the appliance never fires for a small draw such as a trickling basin tap.
- Temperature that swings when a second outlet is opened, which is the appliance sharing one flow between two draws rather than a fault.
- Hot water that was adequate in summer and poor in winter, because the incoming main is colder and the appliance is being asked for a larger temperature rise.
- An electric shower that trips the circuit when it is switched on, which is an electrical fault and needs an electrician rather than repeated resetting.
- Inlet filters and strainers blocking with debris after work on the water main, which starves the appliance and mimics a bigger fault.
Scale, water treatment and the commissioning record
Approved Document L is explicit about what should happen before a new heating appliance goes in: all central heating and primary hot water circuits should be thoroughly cleaned and flushed out, a suitable chemical inhibitor should be added to the primary heating circuit to protect against scale and corrosion, and in hard water areas suitable measures should be taken to treat the feed water to water heaters and the hot water circuit of combination boilers to reduce limescale accumulation. Debris from old pipework and scale from hard water are what destroy the narrow passages an instantaneous appliance depends on.
The paperwork is part of the job rather than an afterthought. Approved Document L points to a commissioning checklist as the way of showing that the heating and hot water system and its heat source were commissioned satisfactorily, and most manufacturers' warranties depend on that record being completed and on the appliance being serviced at the stated interval by somebody holding the right registration.
Replacing a combi in an existing house, and the controls that have to come with it
Fitting a new gas combi in a house that already has one is not simply a like-for-like swap in regulatory terms. Approved Document L says that if a gas-fired combination boiler is installed in an existing dwelling, at least one of the following energy efficiency measures, appropriate to the system, should be installed: flue gas heat recovery, weather compensation, load compensation, or a smart thermostat with automation and optimisation. Ask which one is included and how it will be commissioned, because it is a requirement of the installation rather than an upsell.
Whether to repair or replace usually turns on what has failed and on what the household needs next. A failed sensor or diverter valve on an otherwise sound appliance is worth fixing; a heat exchanger scaled solid in a hard water area, or a model the manufacturer no longer supports, starts to argue for replacement. If the household has grown out of one hot flow at a time, the honest answer may be a cylinder rather than a better instantaneous appliance.
Grants: what the Boiler Upgrade Scheme does and does not cover
There is no grant for putting in another gas combi. The Boiler Upgrade Scheme, which is open to people in England and Wales, gives grants towards replacing fossil fuel heating systems — oil, gas, electric or LPG — with a heat pump or a biomass boiler, so it rewards moving away from an instantaneous gas appliance rather than renewing one.
The devolved picture differs. GOV.UK directs householders in Scotland to separate interest-free loan and grant support for making a home more energy efficient, and notes that the Boiler Replacement Scheme in Northern Ireland has closed, pointing readers to local energy saving grants instead. Check what is open where you live before assuming a quotation can be reduced by a grant.
What drives the cost of installing or repairing an instantaneous water heater
LokalMatch covers the first step only: you set out the appliance you have or want, what the household needs from it and your postcode once, and installers working nearby contact you, having paid for the request. LokalMatch does not install or repair anything, has no say in what any installer charges, and does not vet, rank or recommend the businesses that respond, so ask each one which registrations they hold for your appliance and what their quotation includes.
- Which registration the work needs, since gas work and electrical work are separate competences and neither is general plumbing.
- Whether the incoming main can deliver the flow the appliance needs, or the supply pipe has to be upgraded.
- Whether the gas pipework is adequately sized for the appliance, which is a common mid-job discovery in older houses.
- Flue position and condensate routing, especially in a flat, a mid-terrace or an internal cupboard.
- Whether a cylinder, loft cistern and associated pipework are being removed and the spaces made good.
- Electrical work for an electric instantaneous heater or shower, including the circuit it needs.
- Water hardness and any treatment specified to keep scale out of the heat exchanger.
- Whether a system clean, flush and inhibitor dose is included in the quotation or priced separately.
Tankless Water Heaters: frequently asked questions
Is a tankless water heater the same as a combi boiler?
It is the same principle under an American name. Anything described as tankless, on-demand or instantaneous heats water as it flows rather than storing it, and in Britain that is a combi boiler if it also runs the central heating, or a multipoint or instantaneous water heater if it only makes hot water. Searching for combi boiler, instantaneous water heater or electric shower will find British appliances, installers and spare parts.
Does an instantaneous water heater need the safety valves an unvented cylinder has?
No, and the rules say so directly. Schedule 2 to the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 applies its vent pipe and relief valve requirements to every unvented water heater other than an instantaneous water heater with a capacity not greater than 15 litres, and Approved Document G states that water heaters with a capacity of 15 litres or less that have appropriate safety devices for temperature and pressure will generally satisfy Requirement G3(3). A stored unvented cylinder is a different appliance with a different regime.
Why does my shower run cold for a moment and then hot again?
That is the cold water sandwich, and it is characteristic of heating water as it flows. When a tap is closed and reopened, the water that was sitting in the pipe between the appliance and the outlet has cooled, and it arrives before the newly heated water behind it. It is more noticeable with a long pipe run, and it is a reason to keep the appliance as close as practical to the outlets it serves.
Why is my hot water worse in winter than it was in summer?
Because the appliance is being asked for a bigger temperature rise. Mains water arriving at the house is colder in winter, and an instantaneous appliance raises the temperature of the water passing through it rather than drawing on a store, so it compensates by passing less water each minute. Nothing has necessarily failed, though scale in the heat exchanger will make the same seasonal difference feel much worse.
Is there a grant towards replacing my combi boiler?
Not for another gas boiler. The Boiler Upgrade Scheme, open to people in England and Wales, offers grants for replacing fossil fuel heating systems such as oil, gas, electric or LPG with a heat pump or biomass boiler. Scotland has its own loan and grant support for energy efficiency measures, and the Boiler Replacement Scheme in Northern Ireland has closed, so householders there are directed to local energy saving grants.
Do I need an electrician as well as a plumber for an electric instantaneous heater?
Usually yes. An electric shower or over-sink heater draws a significant current and needs a suitable circuit, and in England electrical work in dwellings falls under Part P of the Building Regulations. Approved Document G also expects electric instantaneous water heaters to comply with the relevant British and European appliance safety standard. The plumbing and the electrics are often done by one firm, but they are two competences and it is fair to ask who holds which.
Does a new combi in an existing house need extra controls fitted?
Approved Document L says that where a gas-fired combination boiler is installed in an existing dwelling, at least one energy efficiency measure appropriate to the system should be installed: flue gas heat recovery, weather compensation, load compensation, or a smart thermostat with automation and optimisation. Ask which measure is in the quotation, since installers differ on which they prefer and the choice affects both the running of the system and the price.
Sources
- Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, regulation 3: competence and approved classes of persons
- HSE: domestic gas frequently asked questions, including who may work on gas appliances
- HSE: how to check that an engineer is on the Gas Safe Register
- Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, Schedule 2: the 15 litre instantaneous water heater exclusion
- GOV.UK: Approved Document G, hot water supply and systems
- GOV.UK: Approved Document L, conservation of fuel and power, including combination boiler measures and commissioning
- GOV.UK: Boiler Upgrade Scheme, and the equivalent support in Scotland and Northern Ireland
- Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2009, regulation 4
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of tankless water heater
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Type of problem and how easy it is to find
- Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
- Parts and fixtures chosen
- Age and material of the existing pipes
- Emergency, evening or weekend service
- Permits and inspections, where required
How to compare plumbers before you hire
- Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your area, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
- Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
- For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
- Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
- If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.
Questions to ask plumbers before you hire
- Are you licensed for plumbing work in my area?
- Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
- What do you think is causing the problem?
- Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
- Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
- What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?
When to call a pro for tankless water heater
- An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
- Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
- No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
- Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap
Tankless water heater permits and local rules
Some tankless water heater work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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