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Tap Repair

Tap Repair near you

Faucet repair is the American name for what Britain calls tap repair. The fittings are the same — a dripping pillar tap on a basin, a kitchen monobloc mixer that has gone stiff, a bib tap on an outside wall — and so are the complaints: a spout that will not stop dripping, water weeping from beneath a handle, a tap that squeals or judders when it is opened, or a puddle quietly forming in the cupboard below.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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What is different here is the law around the work. Nothing licenses plumbers in the way Gas Safe registration governs gas work; instead, regulation 4 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 places duties on the fitting and on the job. Every water fitting must be of an appropriate quality and standard, be suitable for the circumstances in which it is used, comply with Schedule 2 to those Regulations, and be installed, connected, altered, repaired or disconnected in a workmanlike manner. Those duties apply to whoever picks up the spanner, a householder included.

A tap repair is also the moment to check what sits around it: the servicing valves under the basin or sink, the flexible tails feeding a mixer, and whether anyone in the house knows where the internal stop tap is before it is needed in a hurry.

Tap types in British homes, and how each one starts to drip

  • Traditional pillar taps: separate hot and cold taps in which a rubber washer is pressed onto a brass seat, so the spout drips once the washer hardens or the seat pits, however firmly the tap is closed.
  • Quarter-turn ceramic disc taps: two polished discs shear across each other and need only a quarter turn, so a drip usually means a damaged cartridge or grit trapped between the discs rather than a perished washer.
  • Monobloc mixer taps: one body, one or two levers, and narrow flexible tails underneath, which means leaks show up at the base, inside the cartridge or at the tails and their connections.
  • Bath and shower mixers with a flexible hose: the hose puts an outlet somewhere it could draw water back towards the supply, which is why Schedule 2 requires every water system to contain an adequate device for preventing backflow.
  • Outside bib taps: exposed to frost and usually fitted with a hose, so they combine the two risks the Regulations single out, damage by freezing and backflow.
  • Electric instantaneous taps and small over-sink heaters: the tap is fed by a heater rather than by a hot pipe, so a loss of hot water may be an electrical fault rather than a worn seal.

Signs a tap needs repairing, and what the drip is costing you in water

  • The spout keeps dripping when the tap is fully closed, or stops only if you lean on the handle.
  • Water appears around the base of the tap, or seeps from under the handle, each time it is used.
  • The tap squeals, judders or sets the pipes hammering as it is opened or closed.
  • The handle turns much further than it once did, or has gone stiff and gritty part way through its travel.
  • Flow at one tap has fallen away while every other outlet in the house is unchanged.
  • The cupboard beneath is damp, or the chipboard under a sink has swollen and darkened at the joints.
  • A mixer delivers hot and cold separately but will no longer blend them into a steady temperature.

Who may work on a tap in the UK, and what the water fittings rules require

There is no plumbing licence to check. The Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 regulate the fitting and the work rather than the person doing it, and the assurance they offer is the approved contractor scheme: under regulation 6, where a water fitting is installed, altered, connected or disconnected by an approved contractor, that contractor must give the person who commissioned the work a signed certificate stating whether the fitting complies with the Regulations. The Drinking Water Inspectorate recommends employing a qualified plumber, for example one accredited through the WaterSafe scheme, and that accreditation is the practical route to an approved contractor in most of Britain.

Most tap work needs no notice to anyone. The Table in regulation 5 lists the operations for which advance notice must be given to the water undertaker — erecting a building, installing a bath with a capacity of more than 230 litres measured to the centre line of overflow, a pump or booster drawing more than 12 litres per minute connected to a supply pipe, and constructing a pond or pool over 10,000 litres replenished automatically, among others — and swapping a tap is not among them. Where notice is required, the undertaker may withhold or condition consent by a notice given within ten working days, and consent is treated as given if it says nothing in that period.

Scotland and Northern Ireland reach the same ends through their own instruments. Section 70 of the Water (Scotland) Act 1980 empowers Scottish Water to make byelaws preventing waste, undue consumption, misuse or contamination of the water it supplies, and lets it have non-compliant fittings altered, repaired or replaced and recover the cost from the person in default. Northern Ireland has its own Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations, made in 2009, whose regulation 4 repeats the appropriate quality and standard, Schedule 2 and workmanlike manner duties almost word for word.

Weak flow, airlocks and scale at a single tap

When one tap runs weak and the rest of the house is unchanged, the fault is nearly always in the last half metre of the installation. Flow straighteners and aerators collect scale and grit; a servicing valve left half open after earlier work throttles everything downstream of it; and the narrow flexible tails on a monobloc mixer block far more readily than the copper they replaced. Take the aerator off and run the tap briefly into a bucket: if the flow is suddenly healthy, the restriction was in the outlet, not in the pipework.

When it is the hot side alone that disappoints, the answer usually lies in how the house makes hot water rather than in the tap. A gravity-fed cylinder gives pressure in proportion to the height of the cold water cistern above the outlet, so an upstairs basin is always the weakest point in the house, while an appliance heating water as it flows has to see a certain flow before it fires at all — which is why a mixer that has been throttled down can run cold. Diagnosing that is a plumbing visit, not a cartridge.

Backflow, hoses and outside taps: the rule that catches tap work out

Schedule 2 requires every water system to contain an adequate device or devices for preventing backflow of fluid from any appliance, fitting or process, and requires the device used to be appropriate to the highest fluid category to which the fitting is subject downstream. Schedule 1 grades those fluids: category 1 is wholesome water as supplied, category 2 is the same water with its aesthetic quality impaired, category 3 represents a slight health hazard from substances of low toxicity, category 4 a significant hazard from toxic substances, and category 5 a serious health hazard from pathogenic organisms, radioactive or very toxic substances, including anything containing faecal material or other human or animal waste.

  • A hosepipe on an outside tap can sit in a water butt, a pond or a bucket of cleaning solution, so the tap needs backflow protection appropriate to what the hose might be standing in, not simply a tap that closes.
  • A shower or bath hose long enough to reach the bottom of the bath puts the outlet where dirty water could be drawn back into the supply, which is exactly the path the backflow requirement exists to close.
  • Schedule 2 also forbids permanently connecting a supply pipe or secondary circuit to a closed heating circuit unless it incorporates an approved backflow prevention device, which is why a boiler filling loop is meant to be a temporary connection.
  • Every premises supplied with water for domestic purposes must have at least one tap conveniently situated for drawing drinking water, fed from a supply pipe, a pump delivery pipe drawing from one, or a distributing pipe from a cistern supplying wholesome water — usually the kitchen tap.
  • Any pipe supplying cold water for domestic purposes to a tap must be installed so that, so far as is reasonably practicable, the water is not warmed above 25°C, which is why cold pipework should not be run alongside heating pipes in the same insulated void.

Repair the tap or fit a new one

A drip on a sound tap is a parts job: a washer and a reseat on a pillar tap, or a cartridge on a ceramic disc or mixer tap. Repair makes sense when the body is solid, the finish is intact and the part is still made, and it is the quickest way to stop water running to waste. Replacement is the better call when the body is cracked or corroded, when the plating has gone, when nobody can identify the cartridge, or when the tap never suited the sink in the first place.

If the tap is being replaced as part of building work on a new dwelling, water efficiency comes into it. Approved Document G sets a standard for new dwellings of 125 litres per person per day of wholesome water, or 110 litres where the optional requirement applies, and its fittings approach lists maximum consumptions including 6 litres per minute for basin taps and 8 litres per minute for sink taps. Those figures govern new dwellings rather than a tap swap in an existing house, but they are a fair description of what a well-chosen modern tap should deliver.

What drives the cost of a tap repair in a British home

LokalMatch is where the job starts rather than where it is done: you describe the tap, the fault and your postcode once, and plumbers covering that area get in touch, having paid for the request. LokalMatch does not carry out plumbing work, takes no part in setting what a plumber charges, and does not vet, rank or recommend the businesses that reply, so ask each of them what they would check before quoting and whether they hold approved contractor accreditation.

  • Whether the tap is repairable at all, or the cartridge has been discontinued and the fitting has to be replaced.
  • Whether there are working servicing valves under the appliance, or a larger part of the house has to be drained down first.
  • How the property is supplied, since a gravity-fed cylinder, a combi and an unvented cylinder each limit what can sensibly be fitted.
  • Access at the fitting: a monobloc mixer behind a deep worktop or a back-to-wall basin takes far longer to reach than a pillar tap.
  • Water hardness, and how solidly scale has locked the moving parts together.
  • Whether corroded tails, seized valves or a stop tap that no longer closes have to be dealt with before the tap can be isolated.
  • Whether the visit is a booked appointment or an out-of-hours call.

Tap Repair: frequently asked questions

Is a faucet the same thing as a tap?

Yes. Faucet is American English; in Britain the fitting is a tap, and a plumber will talk about pillar taps, bib taps, monobloc mixers, washers and cartridges. Searching for tap repair, tap washer or mixer tap cartridge will find British parts and British advice, which matters because thread sizes and fittings here are not the same as those sold in the United States.

Do I have to use a WaterSafe plumber to change a tap?

No. The water fittings rules regulate the fitting and the standard of the work, not the person carrying it out, so there is no licence to produce. Accreditation still buys you something: under regulation 6 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, an approved contractor must give you a signed certificate stating whether the fitting complies with the Regulations, and the Drinking Water Inspectorate suggests using a plumber accredited through the WaterSafe scheme.

Does changing a tap have to be notified to my water company?

Not on its own. Regulation 5 lists the operations needing advance notice, and they are larger things: erecting a building, a bath over 230 litres, a pump or booster drawing more than 12 litres a minute from a supply pipe, an automatically replenished pond or pool over 10,000 litres, and similar installations. Where notice is needed, the water undertaker has ten working days to respond and consent is deemed given if it does not reply.

Why has my tap started dripping again a month after a new washer?

Usually because the brass seat the washer closes against is pitted, so a new washer cannot make a seal against a damaged surface; the seat needs recutting or the tap needs replacing. On a ceramic disc tap there is no washer to change, and grit disturbed by work on the main is a common cause of a drip that appears shortly after someone else has been working on the water supply.

My outside tap split in a cold spell. Could that have been prevented?

Often, yes. Schedule 2 requires water fittings to be constructed and installed so as to inhibit damage by freezing, and requires any fitting laid below ground level to have a depth of cover sufficient to prevent water freezing in it. In practice that means an isolating valve indoors so the outside section can be drained before winter, insulation on the run through an unheated space, and a tap rated for outdoor use.

Is a dripping tap worth calling anyone about?

It is worth fixing, even though it rarely counts as an emergency. A drip runs day and night, marks the sink or basin, and on the hot side wastes water the household has already paid to heat, while the leak itself slowly ruins the seat and turns a washer into a tap replacement. A leak on the supply side under the sink, a split flexible tail or a valve that will not close is a different matter and needs the water off and a plumber promptly.

Sources

  1. Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, regulation 4: quality, standard and workmanlike manner
  2. Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, Schedule 2: backflow prevention, freezing, stopvalves and taps
  3. Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, Schedule 1: fluid categories 1 to 5
  4. Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, regulation 5: installations requiring notice to the water undertaker
  5. Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, regulation 6: the approved contractor's certificate
  6. Drinking Water Inspectorate: lead in drinking water, and using a WaterSafe accredited plumber
  7. Water (Scotland) Act 1980, section 70: Scottish Water's byelaws on misuse and contamination
  8. Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2009, regulation 4
  9. GOV.UK: Approved Document G, sanitation, hot water safety and water efficiency

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of faucet repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of problem and how easy it is to find
  • Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
  • Parts and fixtures chosen
  • Age and material of the existing pipes
  • Emergency, evening or weekend service
  • Permits and inspections, where required

How to compare plumbers before you hire

  • Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your area, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
  • Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
  • For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
  • Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
  • If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.

Questions to ask plumbers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for plumbing work in my area?
  • Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
  • What do you think is causing the problem?
  • Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
  • Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
  • What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for faucet repair

  • An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
  • Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
  • No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
  • Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap

Faucet repair permits and local rules

Some faucet repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

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