Burglar Alarms
Burglar Alarms near you
An intruder alarm is a set of detectors, a control panel, a way of arming it and a way of telling somebody it has triggered. British houses complicate the middle of that list more than the ends: solid brick party walls that wireless signals struggle through, hallways where the only sensible detector position looks straight at a radiator, conservatories that swing forty degrees between morning and afternoon, and cats.
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Nobody needs a licence to install one. The activities the Security Industry Authority can license come from Schedule 2 to the Private Security Industry Act 2001, and installing or maintaining an alarm system in a private home is not among them. That makes the questions you ask, and the paperwork you keep, the whole of your protection. The exception is at the response end: key holding, described in the same Schedule as keeping custody of or controlling access to a key for operating a lock, is licensable work.
The law that does grip an alarm system is about the noise it makes. An external sounder running for hours is a statutory problem in England and Wales, and in Northern Ireland an audible alarm in a designated area needs a registered key holder the police can contact. The false alarm you never have is worth more than any feature on the quote.
Bells-only, self-monitored and professionally monitored alarm systems
Alarm systems differ mainly in what happens in the minutes after a trigger, and that is where the ongoing commitment lives too. Decide what you want to happen at three in the morning while you are away, then buy the system that does it.
- Bells-only: the sounder and strobe operate and nothing else happens, so the system relies entirely on someone nearby hearing it and caring.
- Self-monitored: the panel sends a notification to your phone, which suits people who will actually act on it and have someone local who can attend.
- Professionally monitored: signals go to a monitoring centre that follows an agreed procedure, which is the option that ties you to a contract and to key holding arrangements.
- Hybrid installations: a wired panel with wireless detectors added, common in houses where lifting floors is out of the question.
- Systems shared with a camera or doorbell: convenient, and the point at which data protection duties attach to the camera part.
Alarm components, and where each one tends to be put wrong
- Control panel: hide it away from the entry door, so it is not the first thing reachable by whoever comes through that door.
- Keypad or app arming: a keypad by the door someone actually uses beats a better one in the hall nobody passes.
- Door contacts: fit them to the doors intruders use, which in most British homes is the back or side door rather than the front.
- Movement detectors: keep them off a line of sight to radiators, boilers, tumble dryers and sunlit conservatory glass, and specify pet-tolerant detectors before installation rather than after the first false alarm.
- Perimeter protection: glass-break or window contacts on accessible ground-floor and flat-roof windows, where movement detectors alone would only notice after entry.
- External sounder: visible from the street and out of easy reach, with the tamper protection commissioned and tested.
- Communications: a signalling path that does not quietly depend on the broadband router an intruder can unplug, and a battery that outlasts a power cut.
No installer licence, but electrical work still follows the building regulations
The licensing position is unusual and worth stating plainly. The SIA licenses security guarding, door supervision, close protection, cash and valuables in transit, public space surveillance using CCTV and key holding; its guidance on whether you need a licence does not list alarm installation or maintenance. So an alarm company is a business like any other, and the checks available to you are ordinary ones: a written specification, public liability insurance, a trading address, and the contract terms.
Electrical work is different. Approved Document P covers electrical safety in dwellings in England and explains when work has to be notified, and government-authorised competent person schemes exist so that a registered installer can self-certify the work instead of routing it through a building control body. Most alarm systems are low voltage, but the spur or supply feeding the panel is not, so ask who is responsible for that part and what certification you will receive.
In Scotland the building standards system runs on building warrants and technical handbooks rather than approved documents, and Northern Ireland has its own Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012. Wherever you are, the question is the same: who is notifying or certifying the electrical work, and what paperwork lands in your hands at the end.
False alarms, the law on audible alarms, and your key holder
Repeated false alarms cost you your neighbours' goodwill first and your own attention second, and eventually they become a legal matter. In England and Wales, Part 7 of the Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005 allows a local authority to designate an alarm notification area. Where one is in force, an occupier must nominate a key holder and notify the authority after installing an alarm, failing to do so is an offence that can be dealt with by a fixed penalty notice, and an authorised officer may enter to silence an alarm that has been sounding continuously or intermittently beyond the periods set out in the Act - forcing entry only under a warrant from a justice.
The Act sets out what a key holder has to be: someone who holds keys sufficient to gain access to the part of the premises where the alarm controls are, who lives near enough and knows how to silence it, and who has agreed to do the job. For residential premises the key holder cannot be the occupier, which rules out nominating yourself.
Northern Ireland handles the same nuisance through registration. In an alarm notification area there, an audible intruder alarm must have a nominated key holder that the police can contact, registered with the local council, with a duty to keep those details current and a fine for not following the rules.
- Have detector siting reviewed if pets, a new heat source or a change of use has altered a room since installation.
- Make sure everyone who arms the system knows the entry route and the code, including anyone who cleans or house-sits.
- Keep the sounder cut-off working, so an unanswered alarm stops rather than running all day.
- Tell your key holder when you change the code, and check they can still attend.
Monitoring contracts, the 14-day cancellation right and what you actually own
Alarm monitoring is where the long-term money sits, so read that part of the contract hardest. Establish whether you own the equipment outright or are renting it, whether the panel can be taken over by another company later, what the notice period is, and what happens to the system if you stop the monitoring.
If you signed at home or over the phone, the Consumer Contracts (Information, Cancellation and Additional Charges) Regulations 2013 give a cancellation period that ends 14 days after the day the contract was entered into for a service contract. Be careful with early starts: the right can be lost where the service has been fully performed and performance began at your express request with your acknowledgement that cancellation rights would be lost. A salesperson keen to have engineers out tomorrow may be shortening your options as well as your wait.
Servicing an alarm system, and the questions to ask about monitoring
Ask precisely what a monitoring centre will do when a signal arrives, in order, and get the answer in writing rather than as reassurance on the doorstep: who is called, in what sequence, how long that takes, what happens if nobody answers, and who attends the property. Ask the same about a signalling failure, since a system that silently stops reporting is worse than one that never claimed to.
On the hardware side, agree the service interval, whether visits are included or charged, how long the standby battery is expected to last, and how you test the system yourself between visits. Keep the commissioning record and the service reports together; they are the only evidence of what the system was set up to do.
What to do when the alarm has actually gone off
If you arrive to find the alarm sounding and signs of a break-in, do not go inside to look. Government guidance is to call 999 and ask for the police if you or someone else is in immediate danger or the crime is in progress, and otherwise to use 101 or the online reporting route, which is police.uk in England, Wales and Northern Ireland and the Police Scotland portal in Scotland. Wait somewhere safe, and leave the scene as it is.
Once the police have been and gone, a locksmith or glazier comes before the alarm engineer: get the property secure the same day, then have the system checked and reset. Note the crime reference the police give you, because the insurer and often the alarm company will ask for it.
Burglar Alarms: frequently asked questions
Do I need a licence or permit to have a burglar alarm fitted?
Not for the installation itself. No licence is needed to install a domestic alarm, since the activities the SIA licenses under Schedule 2 to the Private Security Industry Act 2001 do not include it. The duty that can apply to you is local: in an alarm notification area in England or Wales you must nominate a key holder and notify the council, and in Northern Ireland a nominated key holder has to be registered with the council.
Can I be my own key holder for the alarm?
Not in England and Wales where an alarm notification area applies. The Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005 requires a key holder who holds keys sufficient to reach the alarm controls, lives near enough, knows how to silence the alarm and has agreed to the role, and for residential premises the key holder cannot be the occupier. In practice that means a neighbour, a relative nearby or a key holding company.
Will the police come if my alarm goes off?
That depends on the arrangements between your monitoring provider and the police, so ask the provider to explain in writing exactly what happens after a signal, who they contact and in what order, and what triggers a call to the police. Do not accept a verbal promise of police attendance as part of a sales pitch. If a crime is in progress or anyone is in danger, you call 999 yourself.
Is a wireless alarm as good as a wired one?
It depends on the building more than the technology. Wireless suits finished houses and flats where lifting floors and chasing walls is impractical, at the cost of batteries to replace and signal paths to check through thick walls. Wired suits a property already being renovated or rewired. Either way, ask how the system signals out and what keeps working during a power cut.
Can I take over an alarm system left by the previous owner?
Often, but not always, and it is a question to settle before you rely on it. Ask an engineer whether the panel can be reprogrammed by another company, whether the codes and engineer access can be reset in your name, and whether the detectors are still where the current layout needs them. Change every code as soon as you move in, whoever installed it.
Sources
- Private Security Industry Act 2001, Schedule 2: activities liable to control
- SIA: find out if you need an SIA licence
- Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005, Part 7: audible intruder alarms
- Alarm noise control: key holder registration (Northern Ireland)
- Approved Document P: electrical safety in dwellings (England)
- Competent person schemes: current schemes and how schemes are authorised
- Consumer Contracts (Information, Cancellation and Additional Charges) Regulations 2013, Part 3
- Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012
- Report a crime or anti-social behaviour
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of alarm system
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Number of cameras, sensors or devices
- Wired or wireless installation
- Monitoring and subscription fees
- Running cables through finished walls or ceilings
- Size and layout of the home
- Integration with other smart home or network equipment
How to compare alarm installers before you hire
- Choose an installer who looks at your home in person and explains where cameras, sensors or access points should go.
- Ask whether monitoring is included, whether it's optional and what the contract length and cancellation terms are.
- Find out whether you'll own the equipment or lease it, and whether it works with other systems.
- For hardwired systems, make sure any electrical work is done by a licensed electrician.
- Ask how they'll set up passwords, apps and network security, and make sure you get the admin access.
Questions to ask alarm installers before you hire
- Will I own the equipment, or is it leased or tied to a contract?
- Is monitoring required, and what are the cancellation terms?
- Where will the cameras point, and will they capture my neighbours' property?
- Who will have access to the video and the account?
- Will this work with my existing Wi-Fi, locks or smart home devices?
- What warranty covers the equipment and the installation?
Alarm system permits and local rules
Some alarm system work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingGuides about alarm system
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Security Cameras guide
Home cameras are the one part of domestic security that comes with a body of law aimed squarely at the householder.
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CCTV guide
CCTV, in the sense a British installer means it, is a recorded system rather than a single camera on an app: several fixed views, a recorder or a monitoring centre behind them, and a retention period somebody chose.
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