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First, the language. Australians do not talk about wells. The hole in the ground that reaches groundwater is a bore, the person who drills it is a driller, and the trade is bore drilling — so if you search for a well contractor you will find very little, and if you ring asking about a bore you will be understood immediately. The older word does survive in law: Western Australia licenses the construction of a well, defined as an opening in the ground made or used to obtain access to underground water, which is the same thing everyone on site calls a bore.

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Bore services covers drilling a new bore, installing and replacing the pump and pressure system that gets the water to the house, repairing and pulling pumps, cleaning or rehabilitating a bore that has lost yield, water testing and treatment, and decommissioning bores that are no longer used. On rural properties a bore may supply the house, the stock and the garden; in some suburbs it supplies only the garden while the house runs on scheme water.

Two things govern this work, and neither is negotiable. Taking groundwater is licensed by the state, not by the council, and the rules differ substantially between jurisdictions and between proclaimed and unproclaimed areas. And bore water is not drinking water until it has been tested and treated — health departments are unusually blunt about this, because the contamination that matters cannot be seen or tasted.

Bore, not well: what Australians call this work

Getting the vocabulary right saves time when you are trying to hire someone. A bore is the lined hole; the bore pump or submersible sits down it; a pressure pump and tank deliver water to the house; and a header tank may sit between them. A spear point or shallow bore is a small-diameter arrangement used for garden water in sandy areas. Drillers, pump specialists and water treatment people are frequently three different businesses, and knowing which one you need shortens the phone call.

Western Australia is the exception that proves the point about terminology. The state's water licensing operates under the Rights in Water and Irrigation Act 1914, and the relevant application is a 26D licence to construct and/or alter a well, with a well defined as an opening in the ground made or used to obtain access to underground water. The department's own guidance uses well and bore interchangeably in the same sentence. Elsewhere in the country, and in ordinary speech everywhere, it is simply a bore.

One realistic warning before any money is spent: the state's guidance notes that applying for a water licence to construct a well does not guarantee access to water. A licence permits you to drill. It does not promise that what you find will be sufficient, or good enough to use.

Bore licensing is state business, and it varies

Groundwater is administered by state water agencies rather than by local councils, which is the opposite of how on-site wastewater works, and it catches people who assume one trip to the council covers everything. In Western Australia, the Department of Water and Environmental Regulation issues water licences and permits in accordance with the Rights in Water and Irrigation Act 1914 to protect the state's water resources and promote the sustainable and efficient use of water, and the licence to construct or alter a well is the 26D licence.

Whether you need one depends on where you are and what the water is for. Most of Western Australia's groundwater resources, and surface water resources subject to high levels of demand, are proclaimed under the Act, and proclamation is how the volume available for licensing from a particular resource is defined. Exemptions exist: in Western Australia a licence is not required where the development is within the water table, non-artesian, aquifer and the water is only used for domestic purposes, which extends to watering lawns or gardens under 0.2 hectares, firefighting, and watering livestock not raised under intensive conditions.

Do not carry those rules across a border. Each state runs its own licensing scheme with its own thresholds, its own treatment of domestic and stock use, and its own driller requirements, so the only safe approach is to ask your own state's water agency, or a local driller who lodges these applications weekly, what applies at your address before committing to anything.

What a bore job actually involves

A new bore is a sequence, and the cost lands unevenly across it. Someone assesses the likely depth and yield for your area, the licensing is sorted out where it is required, the bore is drilled and cased, and it is then developed and tested to establish what it will actually produce. Only after that does pump selection make sense, because the pump has to match the yield, the depth and the household's demand rather than the other way around.

Repair work divides along the same lines. A bore that has lost yield may need cleaning or rehabilitation, which is drilling work. A house with no water but a healthy bore usually has a pump, pressure switch, tank or electrical fault, which is pump work. Water that runs but stains, smells or blocks fittings is a treatment question. Saying which of the three you have, as precisely as you can, is the difference between one visit and three.

LokalMatch is built for exactly this kind of scattered rural trade. You describe the job once — new bore or existing, depth if you know it, what the water is used for, your postcode — and matched pros get in touch. Pros pay for the requests. LokalMatch does not carry out the work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so licensing, insurance and references remain yours to check.

Bore water and drinking water are not the same thing

This is the section worth reading twice. NSW Health recommends that groundwater is not used for drinking, cooking and personal hygiene, including cleaning teeth and bathing, without testing and appropriate treatment including disinfection. In cities and towns, NSW Health recommends that people use the public drinking water supply. That advice is about groundwater generally, not about a particular bad bore, and it applies to water that looks and tastes perfectly clean.

Testing covers more ground than most owners expect. NSW Health points to microbiological quality, chemical quality — naming arsenic, nitrate, chromium, PFAS and petroleum hydrocarbons — and radiological quality. Chemical contamination is the reason a clear, odourless bore can still be unsafe, and the reason a boil-water approach is not a general answer: boiling does nothing about arsenic or nitrate.

Siting is the other half of protection, and it ties this work directly to septic systems. NSW Health advises that a groundwater source should be uphill and at least 250 metres from any wastewater disposal system such as a septic tank and trenches. On a property with both a bore and an on-site wastewater system, that relationship deserves checking before either is installed or replaced, because the two decisions are not independent.

Keeping a bore and its pump working

Bores tend to be ignored until they stop, which is unfortunate, because most of what shortens their life is cheap to prevent. The headworks keep surface water and vermin out of the casing, the pump suffers when it runs dry or cycles constantly, and water quality drifts over years rather than changing overnight.

  • Keep the bore head sealed, capped and above ground level so surface water, stock and debris cannot enter the casing.
  • Test the water on a schedule rather than only when something tastes wrong, and test again after flooding or any nearby land use change.
  • Watch for a pump that short-cycles or runs continuously, which usually means a pressure or tank fault and will eventually cost you the pump.
  • Keep the pump's electrical supply and any safety switch in good order, and leave that work to a licensed electrician.
  • Note falling yield or air in the lines early, since a bore that is drawing down is telling you something before it fails.
  • Decommission disused bores properly rather than leaving them open, because an abandoned bore is a direct path into the aquifer.

Signs your bore or bore pump needs attention

  • Pressure at the taps drops, or fluctuates noticeably while a tap runs steadily.
  • The pump runs but delivers little or no water, or cuts out and restarts repeatedly.
  • Air spits from the taps, which can indicate the water level has fallen to the pump intake.
  • The water becomes cloudy, sandy or gritty, suggesting the bore is drawing sediment.
  • Staining on fixtures and laundry, or scale blocking fittings and appliances, changes or worsens.
  • A sudden change in taste or smell, which is a reason to stop drinking the water and have it tested rather than to install a filter and hope.
  • The yield falls away in dry months and does not recover after rain.

Dry summers, wet seasons and when to book bore work

Remember the hemisphere. Demand on a domestic bore peaks from December to February, when gardens need the most water and the aquifer is often at its lowest, so summer is when a marginal bore or a tired pump finally gives up — and also when drillers and pump contractors are hardest to book at short notice. Getting a pump checked in spring is worth more than an emergency call-out in January.

The wet season and the summer storm months bring the opposite risk: surface water moving across the ground and into anything that is not sealed. Flooding is a standard reason to re-test a bore before drinking from it again, and it is the moment when a poorly finished bore head stops being a cosmetic issue.

The cooler months from June to August are the sensible window for the disruptive work — drilling a replacement bore, rehabilitating one that has silted up, or decommissioning a bore you no longer use — because demand is lower and a few days without the bore running is an inconvenience rather than a crisis.

Quotes, guarantees and what to keep after the job

Drilling carries genuine uncertainty, so get the quote's assumptions in writing: expected depth, what happens if the driller has to go deeper, whether casing and development are included, and what occurs if the yield or quality turns out to be unusable. That last scenario is not hypothetical, and agreeing beforehand who carries it prevents a bitter argument later.

The consumer guarantees still apply to the service. The ACCC states that service providers must carry out all services using an acceptable level of care and skill, that services and any resulting products must be fit for any stated purpose, and that services must be supplied within a reasonable time if no time frame is agreed. If the business cannot or will not fix a problem within a reasonable amount of time, or at all, you are entitled to have it done elsewhere and recover the reasonable cost.

Keep the bore record: the licence or approval where one was required, the depth, the casing and screen details, the yield at completion, the pump model and its installation depth, and every water test result. The next contractor's first question will be about that information, and a property with it documented is markedly easier to sell.

Well Services: frequently asked questions

Is it called a well or a bore in Australia?

A bore, in ordinary speech and in the trade. Ask for a bore driller or a bore pump specialist and you will get the right person. The word well survives in some legislation — Western Australia licenses the construction or alteration of a well, defined as an opening in the ground made or used to obtain access to underground water — but nobody on site uses it, and searching for well services will show you very little of what exists.

Do I need a licence to drill a bore on my own land?

Often yes, and it is a state matter rather than a council one. In Western Australia a 26D licence to construct or alter a well is issued under the Rights in Water and Irrigation Act 1914, though a licence is not required where the development is in the water table, non-artesian, aquifer and the water is used only for domestic purposes, including gardens under 0.2 hectares. Other states set their own rules and thresholds, so check with your own state water agency before drilling.

Can I drink bore water?

Not without testing and treatment. NSW Health recommends that groundwater is not used for drinking, cooking and personal hygiene, including cleaning teeth and bathing, without testing and appropriate treatment including disinfection, and recommends that people in cities and towns use the public drinking water supply. Testing should cover microbiological, chemical and radiological quality — chemical risks such as arsenic and nitrate are exactly the ones that clear, good-tasting water can hide.

How far should a bore be from a septic system?

Further than most people assume. NSW Health advises that a groundwater source should be uphill and at least 250 metres from any wastewater disposal system such as a septic tank and trenches. If you are planning either a new bore or a new on-site wastewater system on a property that has both, design them together, because the position of one constrains the other and retrofitting a solution after the fact is expensive.

My bore pump has stopped — is that the bore or the pump?

Usually the pump or its electrics, and that is the cheaper answer. Suspect the pump side if pressure has dropped, the motor runs without delivering water, or it cuts in and out rapidly. Suspect the bore if the yield has been declining over months, the water has turned sandy, or air spits from the taps, which can mean the water level has fallen to the intake. Tell whoever you call which pattern you are seeing; it determines whether you need a pump specialist or a driller.

Sources

  1. Government of Western Australia: Water licensing
  2. Government of Western Australia: Form 1 guide — construct and/or alter a well (26D licence)
  3. Government of Western Australia: Water licensing exemptions
  4. NSW Health: Groundwater and bore water quality
  5. NSW Health: Drinking water quality and the Australian Drinking Water Guidelines
  6. ACCC: Consumer guarantees
  7. ACCC: Repair, replace, refund, cancel

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of well

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of problem and how easy it is to find
  • Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
  • Parts and fixtures chosen
  • Age and material of the existing pipes
  • Emergency, evening or weekend service
  • Permits and inspections, where required

How to compare well contractors before you hire

  • Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your area, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
  • Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
  • For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
  • Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
  • If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.

Questions to ask well contractors before you hire

  • Are you licensed for plumbing work in my area?
  • Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
  • What do you think is causing the problem?
  • Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
  • Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
  • What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for well

  • An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
  • Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
  • No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
  • Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap

Well permits and local rules

Some well work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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