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Most Australians on a reticulated town supply are not buying a filter because their water is unsafe. They are buying one because of chlorine taste, because a kettle furs up, because the water runs cloudy after mains work in the street, or because they would rather not buy bottled water. That is a legitimate reason to filter, and it is worth being clear-eyed about it, because the marketing in this category frequently implies something else.

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The regulated question is different from the purity question, and it is the one that decides whether your installation is lawful. Anything plumbed into the drinking water line is a plumbing product, subject to the WaterMark Certification Scheme, and it is installed by a licensed plumber under your state or territory's plumbing licensing regime. That requirement is far stricter than the equivalent in Britain and it applies to a modest undersink cartridge just as it applies to a hot water system.

There is a live change worth knowing about too. The Australian Building Codes Board has introduced a limit on lead in copper alloy plumbing products used to convey drinking water, set at 0.25 per cent in Clause A5G4 of NCC Volume Three, the Plumbing Code of Australia, with compliant products carrying a Lead Free WaterMark. The transition has been extended, and states and territories can set their own dates, so ask your plumber what applies where you live when you choose the tap that will serve your filter.

Filter types and the problem each one is for

  • Sediment or particle filters trap grit, rust and silt, and are the right first stage for tank water and for any supply that runs dirty after mains work.
  • Activated carbon filters, in block or granular form, are what actually fix chlorine taste and odour, which is the complaint most town-water households are trying to solve.
  • Ceramic filters add a fine physical barrier and are often chosen on rainwater supplies where turbidity and organisms are the concern.
  • Ultraviolet units disinfect rather than filter, need clear water to work at all, and belong to the treatment guide rather than to taste-and-particle filtration.
  • Undersink systems with a dedicated filtered-water tap keep the filter out of the way and stop you wasting cartridge life on dishwashing and hand rinsing.
  • Whole-of-house units sit on the incoming service and treat every outlet, which makes sense for sediment and chlorine but is expensive for taste alone.
  • Benchtop and jug filters are not plumbing at all, which makes them the sensible answer for renters and the weakest answer for flow rate.

WaterMark, licensed installation and the lead free transition

A filter housing spliced into the cold water supply is a plumbing product installed in a drinking water system, and Australian practice treats it as such. WaterMark certification is the scheme that authorises plumbing and drainage products for use, and a licensed plumber should be able to show you that the housing, the tap and the fittings are certified. Buying an uncertified unit online and having it fitted is the most common way a household ends up with an installation a plumber will later refuse to work on.

The lead requirement is the change to watch. NCC Volume Three now limits lead in copper alloy plumbing products used to convey drinking water to 0.25 per cent, under Clause A5G4, and compliant products are certified and marked with the Lead Free WaterMark and listed in the WaterMark Product Database. The ABCB agreed a transition period for industry, and in December 2025 extended the arrangement for installation to 2028. Because individual states and territories may set different transition dates, the practical advice is to ask your plumber what the current position is in your jurisdiction rather than assuming a single national date.

One more regulated point often skipped: a device connected to the drinking water line must not create a path for water to flow backwards into the supply. Backflow prevention is controlled by your water authority, and whether your installation needs a specific device is a question for them and for your plumber, not for the filter's packaging.

Point-of-use or whole-of-house

A point-of-use filter treats one tap. Because the only water it processes is the water you drink and cook with, the cartridge lasts far longer, the unit is smaller, and the running cost is lower. For the classic town-water complaint — chlorine taste in a glass of water — it is almost always the better buy, and a dedicated filtered tap at the sink is the standard form.

A whole-of-house filter treats everything: showers, laundry, garden taps and the hot water system. That is worth paying for when the problem affects more than drinking. Heavy sediment from a tank or a bore will damage tapware and appliances throughout the house, and no undersink cartridge protects them. Chlorine sensitivity in the shower is another genuine reason. But a whole-of-house unit is processing thousands of litres to improve the small fraction you drink, which is why cartridge costs climb.

The honest middle path in many Australian houses on tank or bore water is both: a coarse sediment stage on the incoming service to protect the plumbing, and a finer carbon or ceramic stage at the kitchen tap for what you actually consume.

What a proper filter installation includes

  • An isolation valve upstream of the filter, so a cartridge change does not mean shutting down the whole house.
  • Mounting on a bracket fixed to a cabinet side or wall, not hanging on the pipework, because a wet cartridge housing is heavier than it looks.
  • A dedicated filtered-water tap where the system is point-of-use, drilled and sealed through the benchtop properly rather than clamped to the spout.
  • Fittings and flexible connections that are themselves certified, since a certified housing on uncertified tails is still a non-compliant installation.
  • A check on flow rate and pressure after installation, because a fine cartridge on a house that already has low pressure will make the kitchen tap frustrating.
  • Labelling the housing with the cartridge type and the installation date, which is the cheapest maintenance system available.
  • The compliance paperwork your state's plumbing scheme requires, handed to you rather than left in the plumber's van.

Cartridges, and the failure mode nobody expects

A filter that is never changed is worse than no filter. A loaded carbon cartridge stops adsorbing, the trapped organic material becomes a place for bacteria to colonise, and flow falls away as the medium blocks. The manufacturer will state an interval in litres or in months; the shorter of the two is the one to follow, and a household that entertains, has teenagers or fills a lot of water bottles will reach the volume limit well before the calendar one.

Set a reminder rather than waiting for the taste to come back, because by the time a carbon filter tastes exhausted it has been exhausted for a while. Write the date on the housing at every change. If you are away for an extended period, run the filtered tap for a while when you return before drinking, rather than drinking water that has been sitting in a cartridge for weeks.

Claims worth being sceptical about

  • Any pitch that implies Australian town water is unsafe; reticulated supplies in this country are treated and monitored, and taste is a different complaint from safety.
  • Devices sold as filters that are really softeners, descalers or magnetic conditioners, which address hardness and scale rather than anything you can taste as chlorine.
  • Uncertified imported units, which leave you with an installation outside the WaterMark scheme and a plumber unwilling to touch it.
  • Free in-home water tests conducted by the person selling the equipment, which are a sales tool rather than a laboratory result.
  • Claims about removing specific contaminants without a reference to independent testing of that exact model and cartridge.
  • Whole-of-house systems sold to solve a kitchen-tap taste problem, which is paying to treat the garden hose.
  • Filters promoted as making tank or bore water safe to drink, when disinfection and a laboratory test are what that question actually requires.

Who may install it, and what you should be handed

Connecting a filter to the drinking water supply is licensed plumbing work in every Australian state and territory. This surprises people who have installed a cartridge housing themselves overseas, but the Australian position is consistent and strict: the work is licensed, and the licensed job produces a certificate under whichever scheme your state or territory operates. Keep it. It is the document that matters if the installation later leaks into a kitchen cabinet and you need to make a claim.

Because licensing and certification are state and territory functions rather than national ones, the name of the certificate and the process for issuing it differ across the country. Ask which one applies to you, confirm the plumber's licence covers the work, and ask for the WaterMark certification details of the products being installed at the same time. All three questions take one conversation and save the argument later.

Water Filtration: frequently asked questions

Is Australian tap water safe enough that I do not need a filter?

On a reticulated town supply, the reason to filter is usually taste, odour or sediment rather than safety. Chlorine is the most common complaint, and a carbon filter deals with it well. The picture is genuinely different if your house is supplied by a rainwater tank, a bore or another private source, because those supplies are not treated or monitored by anybody but you, and the right starting point there is a laboratory test rather than a filter chosen from a catalogue.

Can I install an undersink water filter myself?

No. Connecting anything to the drinking water supply is licensed plumbing work in every Australian state and territory. It is a stricter position than many homeowners expect, particularly those who have lived in the United Kingdom, and it applies to a small undersink cartridge as much as to major work. Besides the legal issue, a self-installed unit gives you no compliance certificate, which is what your insurer will want if the housing fails and floods a kitchen cabinet overnight.

What is WaterMark and why does my filter need it?

WaterMark is the certification scheme administered by the Australian Building Codes Board that authorises plumbing and drainage products for installation in Australia. A filter housing, its tap and its fittings all sit in the drinking water system, so they fall within the scheme. Practically, WaterMark is what lets a licensed plumber install the product and certify the work. An uncertified unit bought online often cannot be lawfully installed, which is why plumbers decline to connect them.

What is the lead free plumbing change and does it affect my filter tap?

NCC Volume Three, the Plumbing Code of Australia, limits lead in copper alloy plumbing products used to convey drinking water to 0.25 per cent under Clause A5G4, and compliant products carry a Lead Free WaterMark and appear in the WaterMark Product Database. The ABCB set a transition period for industry and, in December 2025, extended the installation arrangement to 2028. Individual states and territories may adopt different dates. Since a dedicated filter tap is a copper alloy product in contact with drinking water, it is worth asking your plumber what applies in your jurisdiction when you choose one.

How often do filter cartridges actually need changing?

Follow whichever comes first of the manufacturer's stated volume in litres and their stated interval in months. Volume is the one households underestimate, because a family that drinks a lot of water, entertains or fills bottles will reach the litre limit well before the calendar date. Waiting until the taste returns is too late: an exhausted carbon cartridge stopped working some time before you noticed, and a loaded cartridge left in place becomes a place for bacteria to grow. Write the date on the housing at each change.

Sources

  1. NCC: Update on the transition to lead free plumbing products

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of water filtration

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of problem and how easy it is to find
  • Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
  • Parts and fixtures chosen
  • Age and material of the existing pipes
  • Emergency, evening or weekend service
  • Permits and inspections, where required

How to compare water treatment specialists before you hire

  • Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your area, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
  • Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
  • For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
  • Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
  • If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.

Questions to ask water treatment specialists before you hire

  • Are you licensed for plumbing work in my area?
  • Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
  • What do you think is causing the problem?
  • Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
  • Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
  • What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for water filtration

  • An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
  • Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
  • No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
  • Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap

Water filtration permits and local rules

Some water filtration work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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