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Surge Protection

Surge Protection near you

Surge protection is equipment that diverts a sudden over-voltage away from the things plugged into your installation. The over-voltage can come from lightning, from switching events on the distribution network, from a fault on a neighbouring property, or from something large inside your own house starting and stopping. Most of the damage attributed to lightning in Australia is not a direct strike but the surge that travels down the mains afterwards, sometimes from a strike kilometres away.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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The reason this matters more than it used to is that houses are now full of electronics that used to be simple. A switchboard, a hot water system and a stove tolerate a surge that destroys an inverter, a heat pump controller, a network recorder, a smart meter panel or a garage door motor. The repair bill after a storm is rarely the appliance; it is the board inside the appliance.

The important distinction is between a plug-in board and installed protection. A powerboard with surge protection in it guards what is plugged into that board, from a surge arriving along that circuit, and nothing else. Protection installed at the switchboard by an electrician works on everything downstream, including hardwired equipment that has no plug. Serious protection uses both, plus attention to the path people always forget: the antenna, the data cable and the solar array.

Where protection is installed, and what each position covers

  • Switchboard-mounted protection, wired in by a licensed electrician, which acts on every circuit leaving the board including hardwired appliances.
  • Sub-board protection in a granny flat, a shed or a studio, which covers equipment fed by a long run that the main board cannot protect well.
  • Point-of-use protection at a device: a protected powerboard or an inline unit, which handles what gets past the upstream stages.
  • Protection on the solar side, where an array and its cabling are an exposed run on the roof and the inverter is the expensive part.
  • Protection on the antenna or coaxial path, which is a direct route from the roof into the television and is almost always left unprotected.
  • Protection on data and telecommunications cabling entering the house, which matters for a modem, a recorder or equipment in an outbuilding.
  • Surge protection built into an uninterruptible supply, which is bought for continuity and happens to include filtering as well.

A protected powerboard compared with protection at the switchboard

The two are not alternatives; they do different jobs at different scales. Switchboard protection is the first line and takes the large energy events arriving on the supply, clamping them before they reach the circuits. It protects everything in the house, including the oven, the air conditioner, the pool equipment and the garage door motor, none of which can be plugged into a powerboard.

Point-of-use protection is the last line and deals with what is left, plus surges generated inside the house downstream of the board. It is the right place for a home office, a television and audio stack or a network cabinet. Used on its own it has a specific weakness: equipment connected to more than one service, such as a television with both a power lead and an antenna lead, can be damaged by a surge that arrives along the path that was not protected.

The cheapest mistake is a protected powerboard bought once and never looked at again. The protective components inside are consumed by the surges they absorb, and most units have an indicator that tells you whether the protection is still functioning. If a board has been in place through several storm seasons and has no working indicator, it is an extension lead with a marketing claim on it.

How surges actually get into an Australian house

The mains are the obvious path and the most common one. A strike to the network, a fault, or switching on the distribution system sends a transient down the supply and into every house on that section. This is why damage often appears at several houses in a street at once, and why the event that killed your modem may have happened well away from your suburb.

The second path is the one that comes in over the roof. A television antenna, a satellite dish, a solar array and its direct-current cabling, and any aerial on a mast are all elevated conductors connected to something inside the house. Equipment that survives a mains surge is frequently destroyed by one arriving down a coaxial lead into the back of a television.

The third is the run between buildings. A cable to a shed, a studio, a pump or a gate motor, especially a long buried run, picks up energy from a nearby strike and delivers it to both ends. Protection at the outbuilding as well as the house is the usual answer, and a quote that includes only the main switchboard for a property with detached buildings has solved half the problem.

What installing surge protection involves

  • An assessment of the switchboard: whether there is physical space on the rail, whether the earthing is sound, and whether the board is in a condition to be worked on at all.
  • A check of the earthing and bonding of the installation, because surge protection that cannot get the energy to earth quickly does very little.
  • Selection of a device appropriate to the supply arrangement and the exposure of the property, which is the electrician's call rather than a catalogue choice.
  • Installation during a planned outage, with the device connected on short, direct conductors, since long leads compromise how well it works.
  • Consideration of the other services entering the house: antenna, data, and the solar array, each of which needs its own protection if it is to be covered.
  • Labelling of the device on the board schedule and a note of its status indicator, so somebody knows to look at it after a storm.
  • Testing, certification and handover, including telling you what the indicator looks like when the protection has been used up.

Installed protection is switchboard work, so it is licensed

Everything inside the switchboard enclosure belongs to a licensed electrician, and Western Australia's wording explains why the plug-in market confuses people: it is illegal for an unlicensed person to carry out electrical work, including modifications to fixed wiring, and fitting a device onto the rail is exactly that. A protected powerboard bought off a shelf is a product you plug in; a device at the board is an alteration to the installation.

The paperwork follows the work rather than the product, so ask what compliance document your state requires for a switchboard alteration and make sure the device is named on it. A surge protective device that appears on no record is one nobody will think to check in ten years, which matters more than usual for a component designed to wear out.

One practical consequence: if the electrician tells you the switchboard has no space, or that the earthing needs attention first, that is not an upsell in disguise. Surge protection fitted to a board whose earthing is poor is protection in name only, and a board with no room is usually a board that has been added to for decades.

Checking protection that is meant to sacrifice itself

Surge protective devices are consumable. They work by absorbing and diverting energy, and each event uses some of their capacity, so a device that has done its job for several seasons may no longer be capable of doing it again. Most installed devices and better powerboards carry a status indicator, and looking at it is the entire maintenance routine.

Build the check into the storm season. After any severe storm or a local outage, look at the indicator on the switchboard device and at the indicators on protected powerboards, and replace anything showing a fault. Replacement of the switchboard device is electrician's work; a powerboard you can simply retire.

The second habit is worth more than the hardware. During a severe electrical storm, unplug what you can afford to unplug, particularly equipment with both a power lead and an antenna or data lead, because the only protection with a perfect record is physical disconnection. That is a complement to installed protection, not a substitute for it, since hardwired equipment cannot be unplugged at all.

Insurance, connected-equipment claims and your consumer rights

Read what the surge protection product actually promises. Some manufacturers offer a connected-equipment guarantee, which is a contractual promise with its own conditions about installation, evidence and claim windows. That is separate from your statutory rights: the ACCC says a manufacturer's warranty is an extra promise that applies in addition to your consumer rights and cannot replace, change or take them away.

Your consumer guarantees cover both halves of the job. The device is goods, which must be of acceptable quality, match their description and be fit for any purpose you made known; the installation is a service, which must be carried out with an acceptable level of care and skill. If you told the electrician the point of the job was to protect a specific inverter or a network cabinet and the installation left that path unprotected, that is a service guarantee question rather than a product one.

Separately, check your home and contents policy for how it treats damage from electrical surge, since insurers differ and some conditions turn on whether damage was caused by lightning specifically. Ask before the storm season, not after it.

Surge Protection: frequently asked questions

Is a surge-protected powerboard enough?

Not on its own. A powerboard protects what is plugged into it from a surge arriving along that circuit, and can do nothing for hardwired equipment such as an oven, an air conditioner, a pool pump, a garage door motor or a solar inverter. It also leaves open the paths that do not run through it, most commonly an antenna lead into a television. The usual arrangement is protection at the switchboard as the first line and protected boards at sensitive equipment as the last.

Does surge protection stop lightning damage?

It reduces the damage from the far more common case, which is a surge travelling into the house along the mains, the antenna or a data cable after a strike somewhere else. A direct strike on the building is a different and much larger event that surge protection alone is not designed to handle, and protecting a structure against that is a specialist lightning-protection exercise. During a severe storm, physically unplugging what you can remains the most reliable measure available to a household.

How do I know if my surge protection still works?

Look at the status indicator. Surge protective devices are consumable: they absorb energy each time they operate, and a device that has taken several events may have nothing left. Installed devices at the switchboard and better powerboards carry an indicator for exactly this reason. Check them after any severe storm or local outage, retire powerboards that show a fault, and have an electrician replace a switchboard device that has been used up.

Do I need surge protection if I have solar?

It is worth asking about specifically. A solar array and its direct-current cabling are an elevated, exposed run connected to an inverter that is among the most expensive pieces of electronics in the house, and protection on the array side is a separate item from protection at the switchboard. Raise it with the electrician or the solar service company rather than assuming a switchboard device covers it, and have any work on the array side treated as the licensed electrical work it is.

Can I install a switchboard surge device myself?

No. Anything inside the switchboard is electrical work and requires a licensed electrician everywhere in Australia. New South Wales requires a licence for electrical wiring work regardless of cost, Western Australia makes unlicensed electrical work illegal and requires an electrical safety certificate within twenty-eight days for work other than maintenance or like-for-like replacement, and Energy Safe Victoria describes unqualified electrical work as illegal and extremely dangerous.

Sources

  1. NSW Government: Electrical licences and certificates
  2. Government of Western Australia: Having electrical work done
  3. Energy Safe Victoria: Electrical DDIY, don't do it yourself
  4. ACCC: Warranties
  5. ACCC: Consumer rights and guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of surge protection

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type and amount of work, from a single fixture to a full rewire
  • Condition and age of the existing wiring
  • Panel and service capacity
  • Distance from the panel to the new circuit
  • Access through finished walls and ceilings
  • Permits and inspections

How to compare electricians before you hire

  • Hire a licensed electrician or electrical contractor for any wiring, panel or new circuit work.
  • Ask whether the work needs a permit and inspection, and make sure the electrician arranges it.
  • Get a written quote that lists fixtures, materials, patching of walls and ceilings, and permit costs.
  • For panel upgrades and EV chargers, ask them to check whether your electrical service can handle the added load.
  • Choose someone who explains what they found in plain language before starting.

Questions to ask electricians before you hire

  • Are you licensed for electrical work in my area?
  • Will you get the permit and arrange the inspection?
  • Can my current panel and service handle this work?
  • Will you need to open walls or ceilings, and who patches them afterwards?
  • Is the price fixed, or could it change once you see the existing wiring?
  • What warranty do you offer on your work?

When to call a pro for surge protection

  • Burning smells, scorch marks or warm outlets and switches: turn off the circuit at the panel if it's safe to do so and call an electrician.
  • Breakers that trip again and again
  • Flickering or dimming lights that aren't fixed by changing the bulb
  • Any sparking, buzzing or exposed wiring

Surge protection permits and local rules

Some surge protection work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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