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A staircase is arithmetic before it is carpentry. The floor-to-floor height is fixed, the number of risers has to divide into it evenly, and every dimension in the flight follows from that division. Get the arithmetic wrong and no amount of skilled joinery will rescue it, which is why a stair builder measures the total rise on site rather than taking it from a drawing.

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The arithmetic is constrained by the ABCB Housing Provisions, Part 11.2, and the constraints are tight. For a standard stair the riser must be between 115 and 190 millimetres and the going between 240 and 355 millimetres, with the slope relationship falling between 550 and 700 millimetres. A flight must have not more than 18 and not less than 2 risers. Consistency is regulated as closely as the dimensions themselves: no more than 5 millimetres variation between adjacent risers or goings, and no more than 10 millimetres between the largest and smallest in a flight.

Those limits are why stairs so often force a change elsewhere in a house. A tall floor-to-floor height can push a flight past 18 risers and require a landing, which needs to be not less than 750 millimetres long. A shallow space can push the going below the minimum, which means the stair has to turn or the opening has to grow. Settling this before the framing is ordered saves far more than any decision about the timber.

The dimensions the Housing Provisions fix for a stair

Different stair types get different envelopes. A spiral stair may have risers between 140 and 220 millimetres and goings between 210 and 370 millimetres, with a slope relationship between 590 and 680 millimetres. Stairs serving non-habitable rooms used infrequently are allowed risers between 130 and 225 millimetres and goings between 215 and 355 millimetres, with a slope relationship between 540 and 700 millimetres. Those alternatives are useful, but they are not a licence to build a steep stair into a bedroom level.

Two further rules catch people out in open-tread designs. Risers must not have openings that would allow a 125 millimetre sphere to pass through, which rules out the wide-open gap that makes a floating stair look weightless. And treads must be solid, meaning non-perforated, where the stairway is more than 10 metres high or extends beyond three storeys.

Winders are limited rather than banned. Not more than three consecutive winders may replace a quarter landing, and not more than six may replace a half landing. That is what makes a tight corner possible without resorting to a spiral, and it is the detail most often stretched in a renovation.

Stair configurations and what each one costs you in space

  • Straight flights, the cheapest to build and the most demanding of floor length, and the easiest to keep consistent.
  • Quarter-turn and half-turn stairs with landings, which shorten the run and provide a natural rest point.
  • Winder stairs, which turn without a landing within the limits on consecutive winders, and suit narrow older houses.
  • Spiral stairs, which have their own dimensional envelope and suit secondary access far better than primary access.
  • Open-tread and floating stairs, which look weightless but still have to satisfy the 125 millimetre sphere rule at the risers.
  • Cut-string stairs, where the treads sit on a shaped string and the profile is visible from the side.
  • Closed or housed-string stairs, with treads and risers let into routed strings, which is the traditional and most forgiving construction.

How a stair is set out and built

  • Measure the finished floor-to-finished floor height on site, allowing for the floor coverings at both levels, which is where most errors begin.
  • Divide that height into equal risers within the permitted range and check the going and slope relationship that result.
  • Check the stairwell opening and the headroom over every tread, since a flight that works in plan can fail in section.
  • Decide whether a landing is forced, by the maximum number of risers per flight or by the space available.
  • Build or order the strings, treads and risers to those numbers, with the tread nosing detail settled at the same time.
  • Install and fix the flight, checking that the variation between adjacent risers and across the whole flight stays within tolerance.
  • Fit the balustrade and handrail, then the finish, which determines the slip performance of the finished tread.

Stair materials and the nosing that decides the finish

  • Solid hardwood treads, the traditional Australian answer, which take a clear finish and wear well but need selecting for straightness.
  • Engineered or laminated treads, which stay flatter over a long span than a single solid board.
  • Board or plywood treads destined to be carpeted, which change the nosing detail and the slip question entirely.
  • Steel stringers with timber treads, common in contemporary open stairs and requiring the tread fixing to be designed rather than improvised.
  • Nosing strips and inserts, which are the practical way to bring a slippery finished tread up to the required slip resistance.
  • The finish itself, since the coating on a timber tread is what the slip test actually measures, not the timber beneath it.

Slip resistance, headroom and the stair details that injure people

The Housing Provisions set slip resistance for stair treads and nosings, tested in accordance with AS 4586. Treads require a P3 or R10 classification in dry conditions and P4 or R11 where the surface may be wet; nosing strips require P3 dry and P4 wet. That is why the finish on a timber stair is a safety decision rather than an aesthetic one, and why a high-gloss coating on an external or near-entry stair is a poor idea.

Headroom and consistency do the rest of the work. A stair where one riser is slightly different from its neighbours is the classic cause of a fall, which is exactly why the tolerances are regulated at 5 millimetres between adjacent risers and 10 millimetres across the flight. Add a nosing that is hard to see in low light and the risk compounds. Lighting a stair properly, at both ends, is one of the cheapest safety improvements available in any house.

Common faults in existing stairs

  • A bottom or top riser that differs from the rest, usually created when a floor covering was added after the stair was built.
  • Treads that squeak, which is movement between the tread and the string rather than a problem with the timber.
  • Worn nosings that have become rounded and slippery, removing the visual edge that tells a foot where the tread ends.
  • A flight with more risers than permitted, built before a landing was considered, which cannot be fixed without rebuilding.
  • Open risers with gaps a 125 millimetre sphere would pass through, a real hazard in a house with small children.
  • Inadequate headroom at the turn, where a landing was added later and the ceiling above was not.
  • A gloss finish applied to treads in a wet entry area, which defeats the slip resistance the stair was built with.

Keeping a timber stair safe and quiet

  • Re-coat treads before the finish wears through at the nosing, where the wear always starts.
  • Fix squeaks by re-securing the tread to the string rather than by adding surface fixings that will loosen again.
  • Keep the stair well lit at both ends, including a light that works at the bottom step at night.
  • Check the balustrade fixings by pushing firmly at several points each year, and treat any movement as urgent.
  • Replace worn or rounded nosing strips rather than sanding them further.
  • Before adding carpet or a new floor covering at the top or bottom, check what it does to the height of the first and last risers.
  • Keep the stair clear of stored items, which is where most domestic stair falls actually begin.

Staircases: frequently asked questions

How many steps can a single flight have?

The ABCB Housing Provisions require not more than 18 and not less than 2 risers in each flight. Where a floor-to-floor height needs more than 18 risers, the stair has to be broken by a landing, which must be not less than 750 millimetres long. That is one of the most common reasons a stair design changes shape partway through a project, and it is much cheaper to discover at the set-out stage than after the stairwell has been framed.

Why do my stairs feel steep even though they were approved?

Because the permitted range is wide. A riser may be anywhere between 115 and 190 millimetres and a going between 240 and 355 millimetres, with the slope relationship between 550 and 700 millimetres. A stair at the steep end of that envelope is compliant and still tiring to use. If a stair is being built now, ask where in the range it sits rather than only whether it complies, because a more generous going costs floor area but transforms how the house feels to live in.

Can I have open risers on my new stair?

Within limits. The Housing Provisions require that risers do not have openings that would allow a 125 millimetre sphere to pass through, which restricts how open a floating or open-tread stair can really be. Separately, treads must be solid and non-perforated where the stairway is more than 10 metres high or extends beyond three storeys. Designers usually solve the sphere rule with a set-back riser board or a bar, so the effect survives even if the full gap does not.

Are my timber stairs too slippery?

The Housing Provisions set slip resistance classifications, tested to AS 4586. Treads need P3 or R10 in dry conditions and P4 or R11 where the surface may be wet, while nosing strips need P3 dry and P4 wet. A glossy coating on a timber tread, particularly near an entry where shoes arrive wet, is a common way to end up below that. The usual remedies are a different finish or a compliant nosing insert, both of which are far cheaper than a fall.

Can I put a tight turn in a stair instead of a landing?

Yes, using winders, within the limits. The Housing Provisions allow not more than three consecutive winders to replace a quarter landing and not more than six to replace a half landing. Winders make narrow older houses work and they are perfectly legitimate, but they are harder to use carrying anything bulky and they need a carefully designed handrail. Consider the awkward trip up with a laundry basket, not just the plan on paper.

Will new carpet or floorboards affect my stairs?

They can, and this is one of the most common ways a compliant stair becomes a hazard. Adding a floor covering at the top or bottom without adjusting the stair changes the height of the first or last riser, and the Provisions allow no more than 5 millimetres variation between adjacent risers and 10 millimetres across a flight. A single odd riser at the bottom of a flight is a classic trip. Have the floor layer and the stair builder resolve it together.

Sources

  1. ABCB Housing Provisions, Part 11.2 Stairway and ramp construction

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of staircase

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare stair builders before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask stair builders before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Staircase permits and local rules

Some staircase work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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