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Framing

Framing near you

Framing is the skeleton: the floor structure, the wall frames, the roof trusses or conventional roof, and the bracing and tie-downs that hold the whole assembly together when the weather arrives. It is the stage where a house stops being a slab and becomes a shape, and it is the stage nobody will ever see again once the linings go on.

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Australian framing is governed by where the house stands rather than by what it looks like. The National Construction Code's Performance Requirement H1P1 asks a building to withstand the combination of loads and other actions it may reasonably be subjected to, including wind, earthquake and thermal effects. The Deemed-to-Satisfy route in H1D6(4) then splits timber framing by climate: residential timber-framed construction in non-cyclonic areas is designed to AS 1684.2 or AS 1684.4, and in cyclonic areas to AS 1684.3. Wind itself is classified under AS 4055 or calculated under AS/NZS 1170.2.

That split is why the same floor plan is a genuinely different frame in North Queensland and in regional Victoria. Member sizes, the number and placement of bracing walls, the strap and rod tie-down that ties roof to wall to floor to footing, and even the nailing pattern all shift with the wind classification. A framing quote that has not named a wind class has not been priced against your address.

The standards a house frame is actually built to

Part H1 of NCC 2022 Volume Two is short because it delegates. H1D2 lets a Class 1 or Class 10 building follow Section 2 of the ABCB Housing Provisions, or the relevant provisions of H1D3 to H1D12, or a combination of the two. When the design goes down the standards route, H1D6(4) names them explicitly for timber: AS 1720.1 for the design of timber structures, AS 1720.5 for nailplated timber roof trusses, AS 1684.2 or AS 1684.4 for residential timber-framed construction in non-cyclonic areas, AS 1684.3 for cyclonic areas, and AS 1860.2 for the installation of particleboard flooring.

Steel framing has its own list in the same clause: the NASH Standard for residential and low-rise steel framing, AS 4100 for steel structures and AS/NZS 4600 for cold-formed steel structures. The Housing Provisions add their own framing content in Part 6, which covers the scope and application of the framing section, subfloor ventilation and structural steel members.

None of this is homework for the homeowner. It is a set of questions worth asking, because a builder who can tell you which of those documents the frame was designed under, and at what wind class, is describing a frame somebody engineered rather than a frame somebody remembered.

Timber frame, steel frame and truss roof: choosing the system

  • Conventional timber framing, cut and assembled to span tables, which suits complex roof shapes and renovation work where nothing is standard.
  • Prefabricated timber wall frames and nailplated roof trusses, made in a factory to AS 1720.5 and craned in, which compresses the frame stage to days.
  • Light-gauge steel framing to the NASH Standard and AS/NZS 4600, which does not burn, does not feed termites and holds a straight line, at the cost of different fixing and lining details.
  • Hybrid frames, common in renovations, where a steel beam picks up loads that timber cannot span and the rest of the frame stays in timber.
  • Subfloor framing of bearers and joists over piers, which is the traditional Australian answer on a sloping or reactive site and brings the Housing Provisions' subfloor ventilation requirements with it.
  • Particleboard or structural plywood flooring laid over that frame, with AS 1860.2 governing the particleboard installation.

Stress grades, seasoning and what a framing quote should specify

Structural timber is sold on graded strength, not appearance, and the grade is what the span tables in AS 1684 are written against. A quote that lists a member size with no grade has given you half the specification, because a stud of the same dimension can belong to quite different strength classes. The same applies to the seasoning: unseasoned hardwood and kiln-dried softwood shrink by different amounts as the frame dries out, which is why a frame that mixes them without thought ends up with doors that bind in the first summer.

The connection hardware deserves the same attention as the timber. Bracing only works if it is fixed with the fasteners the bracing system was tested with, and tie-down only works if every link in the chain is present. Substituting a cheaper strap or a shorter screw somewhere in that chain is invisible on site and decisive in a storm.

How a house frame goes up, stage by stage

  • Set-out: transferring the plan onto the slab or bearers, squaring the building and marking every wall and opening before a single stud is cut.
  • Floor framing where there is no slab, with bearers and joists sized to span and the subfloor space ventilated as the Housing Provisions require.
  • Wall frames stood, plumbed, straightened and temporarily braced, with openings trimmed for windows and doors to the sizes actually ordered.
  • Permanent bracing fixed to the pattern the design calls for, which is the part most often reduced on site and hardest to add later.
  • Roof trusses craned and fixed at the specified spacing, or a conventional roof cut in place where the shape defeats trusses.
  • Tie-down completed from roof to wall to floor to footing, so that uplift has a continuous path down into the ground.
  • Frame inspection, which in most states is a mandatory stage before any lining goes on, followed by the services rough-in.

Who is licensed to frame a house, state by state

There is no national carpentry licence, so the answer depends on the state. Queensland is the most explicit: the QBCC carpentry trade licence covers constructing and erecting timber and steel wall framing and roof structures, along with non-loadbearing partitions, installing windows, doors, ceilings, subfloors, flooring, roofing and stairs, fixing internal linings, panelling and mouldings, restoring and renovating doors, windows and frames, and concreting to simple forms including formwork and reinforcement.

The same licence is explicit about what a carpenter may not touch. Plumbing and drainage, termite management and pest control, fire protection work, gasfitting and mechanical services are excluded, and the QBCC does not allow a carpenter to pick them up as incidental work regardless of value. That matters on a frame, because a chemical termite management system and a fire-protected penetration are both things that happen around framing but are not framing.

Elsewhere the structure of the rules differs rather than the substance. New South Wales licenses carpentry as its own contractor category above a value threshold, Victoria reserves major domestic building work for registered building practitioners, and South Australia and Western Australia each run their own building work contractor registration. Look the licence up on that state's register before the frame is ordered, not after it is standing.

Framing faults that surface years later

  • Bracing units reduced or relocated on site to suit a window that moved, which nobody notices until a wind event.
  • A tie-down chain that stops at a wall plate instead of continuing to the footing, leaving the roof connected to nothing in particular.
  • Notched or drilled joists and studs cut oversize by another trade chasing a pipe or a cable through a structural member.
  • Unseasoned timber framed up wet and lined too soon, which shrinks behind the plasterboard and cracks the cornice line.
  • Trusses modified on site to make room for a duct or a downlight, which voids the truss design entirely.
  • Subfloor ventilation blocked by later landscaping or an added slab, turning a ventilated space into a damp one.
  • A steel beam installed without the packing and bearing detail the engineer drew, so the load arrives somewhere it was never meant to.

Signs an existing frame is in trouble

  • Doors and windows that bind in one season and swing free in another, which points at movement rather than at the door.
  • Cornice cracks that reopen after every patch, usually at the same corner.
  • Floors that have developed a noticeable bounce or a new squeak across a whole room rather than at one board.
  • A ceiling line that sags between trusses, or a roof plane that has gone visibly out of straight.
  • Wall linings that have pulled away from a stud line, leaving a hairline shadow the length of the wall.
  • Any timber in the subfloor that is soft to a probe, which needs a licensed pest inspector rather than a carpenter first.

Framing: frequently asked questions

Does my wind classification really change the frame?

Yes, and it changes it before anything else does. NCC 2022 Volume Two sends timber framing in non-cyclonic areas to AS 1684.2 or AS 1684.4, and timber framing in cyclonic areas to AS 1684.3, with wind classified under AS 4055 or calculated under AS/NZS 1170.2. The consequences run right through the frame: member sizes, bracing quantity and placement, the tie-down chain and the fixings. Two quotes for the same plan can differ substantially simply because one has been priced against the right wind class and the other has not. Ask for the class in writing.

Is a steel frame better than a timber frame in Australia?

Neither is better in general; they fail and succeed differently. Light-gauge steel to the NASH Standard and AS/NZS 4600 does not feed termites, does not burn and holds a straight line, which is why it is common in high termite pressure areas. Timber framed to AS 1684 is easier to modify later, more forgiving on a renovation where nothing is square, and understood by every carpenter in the country. The deciding factors are usually your site, the trades available locally and whether you expect to alter the house later.

Can a plumber or electrician cut through my framing?

Only within the notching and drilling limits the framing standard sets, which are much tighter than most people assume. A joist or stud that has been cut oversize to let a waste pipe through has lost strength that the span tables assumed it had, and the fix once the linings are on is expensive. The practical protection is to have the frame inspected after the services rough-in and before lining, and to make the builder responsible for coordinating where the services run.

What does a carpenter's licence let them do in Queensland?

The QBCC carpentry trade licence covers constructing and erecting timber and steel wall framing and roof structures, non-loadbearing partitions, installing windows, doors, ceilings, subfloors, flooring, roofing, stairs and interior linings, fixing internal linings, panelling and mouldings, restoring doors, windows and frames, and concreting to simple forms. It explicitly excludes plumbing and drainage, termite management and pest control, fire protection, gasfitting and mechanical services, and those cannot be done as incidental work. Other states organise their licences differently, so check the register in your own state.

Why does the frame get inspected before the plasterboard goes on?

Because once it is lined, nobody can see the bracing, the tie-down or the fixings again without opening the wall. The frame stage inspection is the one opportunity to confirm that what was designed is what was built, and in most states it is a mandatory inspection in the approval, not an optional courtesy. If a builder is ready to line before that inspection has happened, that is the moment to stop the job rather than to trust the schedule.

Sources

  1. NCC 2022 Volume Two, Part H1 Structure
  2. ABCB Housing Provisions, Part 6 Framing
  3. QBCC: Carpentry trade licence scope of work

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of framing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare framers before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask framers before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Framing permits and local rules

Some framing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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