Patio Doors
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Almost nobody in Australia says patio door. The opening between the living room and the deck is a sliding door, a stacker if three or four panels slide and stack to one side, a bi-fold if the panels concertina, and French doors if two leaves swing. Whatever it is called, it is usually the widest opening in the house, which makes it the biggest weatherproofing risk, the largest single piece of glass to specify and the hardware most likely to be complained about five summers later.
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The code treats it as a glazed assembly rather than as joinery. Sliding and swinging glazed doors with a frame, including French and bi-fold doors, are designed and constructed to AS 2047 as part of an external wall, while sliding doors without a frame fall outside that and are dealt with under AS 1288. The glass itself must be of a type within the scope of AS 1288, and its position in the wall decides what grade it has to be.
Three site facts steer the specification before anyone talks about sight lines: the wind classification of the site, because the code's simplified glass tables run out at wind class N3; what is on the other side of the threshold, because a drop of a metre or more brings in barrier requirements; and whether the address is in one of the cyclonic wind regions or on bushfire prone land. Settle those first and the rest of the conversation is about how the door feels to use.
Sliding, stacker, bi-fold and French: the Australian options for a wide opening
- Two-panel slider: one sash slides past a fixed panel, the cheapest and most forgiving option, opening half the width.
- Stacker: three or four panels slide and stack against each other at one end, giving a much wider clear opening without a swing.
- Bi-fold: panels hinged together concertina to one or both ends and clear nearly the whole opening, at the cost of many more moving joints to seal and maintain.
- French doors: two hinged leaves that both open, the simplest to seal well and the easiest to secure, but they need clear floor space inside or out.
- Lift-and-slide: the sash lifts off its seals to move and drops onto them to close, which suits very large and heavy panels.
- Corner openings, where two runs meet with no post, which are an engineering decision about the beam above long before they are a door decision.
- Frameless sliding doors, which the Housing Provisions expressly exclude from the windows and external glazed doors part and which are handled under AS 1288.
Frames, glass and the wind classification behind both
Glass for a large opening is not chosen by thickness alone. The Housing Provisions require the glass used to be of a type within the scope of AS 1288, and set out monolithic annealed glass thicknesses in tables written for wind classifications not exceeding N1, N2 and N3. Toughened, wired, laminated, unframed glazing and insulated glass units are not in those tables at all and are selected from AS 1288 directly, and the code notes openly that thickness depends not just on limit state wind loads but on geometric criteria including aspect ratio and slenderness. Since a stacker panel is tall and narrow, that last point is doing real work.
Wind actions themselves are determined under AS/NZS 1170.2 or AS 4055, except where Western Australia's own changes to those standards apply. Ask the supplier in writing which wind classification they have assumed for your site and where that assumption came from, because an exposed hilltop block or a cyclonic address is outside the simplified tables entirely.
- Aluminium frames: the default for wide openings, with the coating and the fastener metal deciding how they age near the surf.
- Thermally broken aluminium and composite frames: heavier and dearer, chosen where the whole-window performance figures for the climate zone demand it.
- Timber frames: still made, still beautiful, and still the ones that move with the seasons and need their finish maintained.
- Laminated glass: holds together when it breaks and cuts noise, which matters on a road-facing opening.
- Insulated glass units: two or three panes sealed around a spacer, with the seal being the part that eventually fails.
- Rollers, tracks and interlocks: the parts that decide whether the door is still pleasant to use in ten years, and the first to corrode in coastal air.
The sill, the drainage and where a wide door actually leaks
A sliding or stacker door leaks at the bottom far more often than anywhere else, because the sill is long, sits close to whatever is outside, and collects everything that runs down the glass. The installation provisions are specific about the head of the opening, requiring that structural building loads must not be transferred to the assembly and that a minimum ten millimetre gap be left between the top of it and any loadbearing framing or masonry above, with packing along each side and the bottom fixed so those edges stay straight and kept clear of flashing material. The sill is where that discipline pays off or does not.
The two questions to ask before ordering are where water that gets into the track is supposed to go, and what the level is outside. A deck or paving built up level with the sill removes the fall that the drainage detail assumes, and a door that was watertight when the house was built starts leaking the summer after a new deck goes on. If you want a low or step-free threshold for accessibility, say so early, because it has to be designed with the drainage rather than sealed up afterwards.
Weatherproofing is a performance requirement in its own right: the external wall, including the openings around doors, has to prevent water penetration that would cause undue dampness or deterioration, with AS 2047 the route for framed glazed assemblies. Ask how the sill, jambs and head flash into the existing wall, and get it answered before a unit is manufactured.
Barriers, low-level glazing and a wide opening at a change of level
The moment a wide door opens onto a drop, it stops being a door question and becomes a barrier question. A barrier is required where it is possible to fall one metre or more from a trafficable surface to the surface beneath, and it must be at least one metre above the floor of a balcony, deck or landing, or at least eight hundred and sixty five millimetres above the nosings of stair treads. Openings in it must not allow a one hundred and twenty five millimetre sphere to pass through, and where the fall exceeds four metres the elements between one hundred and fifty and seven hundred and sixty millimetres above the floor must not help a child climb it.
Low glazing has its own rule. Where the lowest visible sight line of a glazed panel is less than five hundred millimetres above the highest abutting finished floor level, it is treated as low-level glazing, and ordinary monolithic annealed glass is only permitted there at not less than five millimetres nominal thickness and with a panel area no greater than one point two square metres. A full-height panel beside a sliding door will almost always exceed that, which is why Grade A safety glazing material is the norm across a wide opening rather than an upgrade.
Both rules bite hardest on a first-floor balcony door, where a homeowner wants an uninterrupted view and the code wants a barrier. Have the designer resolve that on paper before the door is ordered, because retrofitting a compliant balustrade to a finished opening is the expensive way to find out.
Comparing the configurations on the things you will live with
Every configuration trades clear opening against sealing, hardware count and threshold. There is no best answer, only the one that suits how the room is used, so compare them on the four things you will actually notice rather than on the showroom demonstration.
- Clear opening: a stacker or bi-fold opens most of the wall, a two-panel slider opens half of it, and French doors open the width of the leaves.
- Sealing: fewer moving joints seal better, which is why a slider or a pair of French doors usually outperforms a bi-fold in driving rain.
- Threshold: bi-fold tracks tend to be the most intrusive underfoot and the most likely to catch dust and grit, which is what wears the hardware.
- Hardware count: every extra panel adds rollers, hinges and interlocks, and each is a part that will one day need to be matched.
- Furniture and traffic: a swinging leaf needs floor space that a sliding panel does not, indoors or out.
- Security and screens: sliders and stackers take insect and security screens easily, while a bi-fold usually needs a retractable screen that is a product decision in itself.
- Repairability: ask which parts the supplier still stocks for doors they sold ten years ago, and treat a vague answer as an answer.
Storm season, cyclonic regions and the inverted calendar
Work backwards from the weather that tests your address, remembering that summer runs December to February here and winter June to August. In the north the planning date is the wet season and the cyclone season that comes with it; in the south it is the cold fronts and driving rain of late winter and spring. Nobody wants a wall-sized opening covered in sheeting when either arrives.
In the cyclonic regions the door is part of the building envelope rather than a fitting. The NCC identifies wind regions B, C and D as the cyclonic areas, and the reasoning behind the wind provisions is that an opening created in the envelope changes the pressures inside the whole house, with Western Australia's changes to the wind standards discussing openings produced by impact loading from windborne debris. That is why the QBCC's storm preparation advice for Queensland homeowners includes fitting glass window and door openings with shutters, security screens or the like, alongside trimming trees and clearing gutters and downpipes.
If you are in one of those regions, ask the supplier to state the wind classification the door and its fixings are rated to and who determined it for your site, and have that in writing before the deposit rather than after the first warning is issued.
Approvals, pool barriers and licensing for a wide glazed opening
Replacing a door in the same opening is usually treated as repair or maintenance, but widening an opening is structural work on the wall above it, and the answer changes again on a heritage property, close to a boundary or on designated bushfire prone land, where the deemed-to-satisfy path is construction to AS 3959 or the NASH steel-framed bushfire standard at the level assessed for the site. Your council or a registered building surveyor gives the only answer that counts for your address.
If the door opens towards a pool, raise it early. The NCC requires access to a swimming pool to be restricted by barriers designed to AS 1926.1, with AS 1926.2 covering the water recirculation system and state variations changing the detail, including the depth at which the requirement starts. Pool safety is separately regulated by each state, so ask the pool safety rules in your state how a doorway on that elevation is treated before you commit to a configuration.
Licensing follows the ordinary state lines by value and type of work, with New South Wales licensing glazing as a named trade, Queensland working through QBCC licence classes, Western Australia restricting particular building work to registered practitioners and contractors, and Victoria requiring registration for domestic building work above its threshold. LokalMatch is the front of that process: you describe the opening once, with the configuration you want, the measurements, what is outside the threshold and whether the site is cyclonic or bushfire prone, and installers covering your postcode contact you. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install doors, does not set or quote prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone.
What your rights are when a wide door disappoints
A door like this is bought twice: as goods, and as an installation. Under the Australian Consumer Law the product must be of acceptable quality, fit for a purpose you made known and match its description, with spare parts and repair facilities available for a reasonable time, while the installation must be carried out with acceptable care and skill and within a reasonable time when none was agreed.
Sliding and stacking doors make the major-versus-minor line unusually concrete. A door that binds, drops off its track or will not lock is not a cosmetic complaint: it is a security and egress problem, and a panel that has failed safety glazing is a hazard rather than a defect. Where the problem is major you choose the remedy — a refund or a replacement of the same type for the product, or for the service, cancelling for a refund or keeping the contract at a price reduced to reflect the problem. Where it is minor the business gets the chance to put it right free of charge. If it refuses or drags it out, you can have the work done elsewhere and recover what it reasonably cost you.
Because a wide opening produces the classic argument about whether the water came through the door or through the wall around it, put the purpose in writing before the work starts. An email saying the aim is a threshold that stays dry in wind-driven rain off the deck is worth a great deal more, two years later, than anyone's recollection of a conversation on site.
Patio Doors: frequently asked questions
What do Australians call a patio door?
Usually a sliding door, or a stacker when three or four panels slide and stack together, a bi-fold when they concertina, and French doors when two leaves swing. Use the configuration name when you ask for quotes, because it decides the track, the hardware and the way the opening is sealed, and installers price each one differently.
Is a bi-fold or a stacker better for a wide opening?
A bi-fold clears more of the wall but has many more moving joints to seal and maintain, and its track is the most intrusive underfoot. A stacker gives a wide opening with fewer joints and usually seals better in driving rain. Decide by how the room is used and how exposed the elevation is, then ask about parts availability for both.
Does the glass in a sliding door have to be safety glass?
In practice, yes. Glass in a door must be Grade A safety glazing material, and a panel whose lowest sight line is below five hundred millimetres is treated as low-level glazing, where ordinary annealed glass is only permitted at not less than five millimetres nominal thickness and no more than one point two square metres. Full-height panels in a wide opening comfortably exceed that.
My door opens onto a first-floor balcony. Do I need a barrier?
If it is possible to fall a metre or more to the surface beneath, yes. The barrier must be at least a metre above the balcony floor, must not allow a one hundred and twenty five millimetre sphere through its openings, and where the fall exceeds four metres it must not have climbable elements between one hundred and fifty and seven hundred and sixty millimetres above the floor.
Why does my new deck seem to have made the door leak?
Because the drainage detail at the sill assumes a fall away from the house. Building a deck or paving up level with the sill removes the path that water in the track relies on, and driving rain then finds its way inside. Have the level outside checked and the sill drainage restored before anyone starts resealing the door itself.
I am in a cyclone region. What should I ask for?
Ask for the wind classification the door, its fixings and its glass are rated to, and who determined that classification for your site. Wind regions B, C and D are the cyclonic areas, and the QBCC's storm preparation advice for homeowners includes fitting glass window and door openings with shutters, security screens or the like. Get all of it in writing before the deposit.
Sources
- NCC 2022 Volume Two Part H1 Structure (H1D8 glazed assemblies, H1D7 cyclonic areas)
- ABCB Housing Provisions Part 8.2 Windows and external glazed doors
- ABCB Housing Provisions Part 8.3 Glass (AS 1288 and wind classifications)
- ABCB Housing Provisions Part 11.3 Barriers and handrails
- ABCB Housing Provisions WA Part 2.3: changes to AS/NZS 1170.2 and AS 4055
- NCC 2022 Volume Two Part H7 (H7D2 swimming pools, H7D4 bushfire construction)
- QBCC: Prepare for natural disasters
- NSW Government: Glazing work licences
- ACCC: Repair, replace, refund, cancel
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of patio door
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Number, size and style of windows or doors
- Frame material and glass options
- Full-frame replacement or insert
- Repairs to rotted framing or sills
- Interior and exterior trim and capping
- Access, including upper floors
How to compare door installers before you hire
- Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
- Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
- Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
- Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
- For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.
Questions to ask door installers before you hire
- Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
- How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
- Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
- How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
- Will your own crew do the installation?
When to call a pro for patio door
- Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
- Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
- A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.
Patio door permits and local rules
Some patio door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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