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Front Doors

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An entry door is the one part of an Australian house that is judged from the footpath and then asked to perform like a piece of the wall. It has to look right, lock properly, keep wind-driven rain out of the hallway, hold its shape through a humid summer and a dry winter, and on a growing number of blocks it has to keep embers out as well. Most homeowners start with a colour and a handle; the installers worth hiring start with the opening.

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How the code treats your new door depends on how much glass it carries and whether it has a frame. The NCC satisfies its structural requirement for glazed assemblies in an external wall through AS 2047, which covers windows, sliding and swinging glazed doors with a frame including French and bi-fold doors, adjustable louvres and window walls with one-piece framing. Doors without a frame, and every glazed assembly that is not in an external wall, are dealt with under AS 1288 instead. A solid entry door with no glass in it sits outside the glazing standards altogether and is judged on weatherproofing, sealing and, near a boundary or on bushfire prone land, on fire.

Who may do the work is decided by your state, not nationally, and the answer changes with the value of the job and sometimes with the trade. That is worth settling before you order anything, because a door is a made-to-measure product with a lead time and very little resale value if it turns out not to suit the opening.

Entry door configurations Australian installers quote on

The word everyone uses is front door, but installers are pricing several quite different jobs, and the configuration decides whether the opening itself has to change. Say which of these you mean in your first message and the quotes you get back will be comparable.

  • A single hinged door refitted into the existing frame, which keeps the opening, the flashings and the external finish untouched.
  • A complete unit: door, frame, sill and weather seals supplied together and set into the opening, which is the usual answer when the existing frame has moved or decayed.
  • An entry door with one or two glazed side lights, which brings the human impact glazing rules into the job even when the door itself is solid.
  • A door with a highlight above it, the fixed panel Australians put over an entry to borrow daylight without losing privacy.
  • Double entry doors, with one leaf used daily and the other held by flush bolts, which need a long meeting stile that seals and a frame square enough to keep both leaves aligned.
  • Pivot doors, usually oversized and heavy, where the hardware and the floor fixing matter more than the leaf.
  • Framed glazed entry doors, including French pairs and bi-folds with a frame, which the NCC places in the AS 2047 family alongside windows.
  • A hinged or sliding security screen door over the entry, which on bushfire prone land can be part of the ember strategy rather than just an insect screen.

What Australian entry doors are made of, and how each one ages here

Two things age an entry door in this country: ultraviolet light and salt. A door facing north or west takes hours of direct sun that will break down a clear finish long before the timber itself fails, and within a few kilometres of the surf the hinges, the lock cylinder and the fixings corrode while the face of the door still looks new. Ask any supplier what their warranty says about coastal exposure and about doors not protected by a porch or an awning, because both exclusions are common and both are the ones that will apply to you.

  • Solid timber: the traditional choice and the most repairable, but it moves with humidity and needs every face coated, including the top and bottom edges nobody sees.
  • Engineered or solid core doors with a timber veneer: more stable than solid timber across a wet and dry cycle, though the veneer is thin and unforgiving of sanding.
  • Aluminium-framed glazed doors: dimensionally stable and easy to match to window frames, with the finish on the frame doing the durability work.
  • Composite and steel-faced doors: stable and low maintenance, but the edges and any cut penetrations are where corrosion or moisture starts.
  • Security screen doors in aluminium or steel mesh: a second door in front of the first, and the one that takes the weather when the entry is unprotected.
  • Hardware: hinges, closers, cylinders and fixings are the first casualties near the coast, so treat the metal specification as part of the door decision.
  • Finish: a factory-applied coating on all six faces before the door is hung outlasts a coat brushed on site after installation.

Glass in an entry door: the rules you can check yourself after installation

The human impact provisions apply where an area of the building is frequented during everyday activities and a person could fall into or against a glazed panel, which describes the front hall of almost every house. Glass in a door has to be Grade A safety glazing material, and an unframed glass door needs toughened safety glass of at least ten millimetres nominal thickness, or laminated toughened safety glass of at least ten millimetres total thickness.

The panel beside the door is where the arguments happen. Framed glass within three hundred millimetres of the nearest edge of the doorway opening needs Grade A material, and ordinary monolithic annealed glass is only allowed there where the lowest visible sight line is more than one point two metres above the highest abutting finished floor level, at a minimum thickness of five millimetres and an area no greater than three tenths of a square metre. Separately, a glazed panel that could be mistaken for an unobstructed opening or a doorway has to be Grade A, with narrow exemptions such as an opening less than five hundred millimetres wide.

Unusually for building work, you can audit this yourself when the job is finished. Safety glazing carries permanent etching or a label stating the standard it was tested to, the manufacturer or supplier, the grade, the nominal thickness and the type of safety glass. Walk up to the new door before the final payment, find the mark in the corner of each pane, and photograph it for your file.

Signs an entry door is past adjusting and due for replacement

  • Daylight visible along the latch stile or under the door when it is closed and latched, after the seals have already been renewed.
  • A leaf that has been planed more than once and now rattles in the dry months and binds in the wet ones.
  • Soft or crumbling timber at the bottom rail or at the base of a jamb, which is decay rather than wear and will return if it is only filled.
  • A frame that is no longer square, so the lock will not meet its keeper without the door being lifted.
  • Corrosion through the face of a metal or composite door, or blistering that lifts the coating away from the substrate.
  • Glass in the door or a side panel with no visible safety glazing mark, which is worth resolving whenever the door is being worked on anyway.
  • Hardware that cannot be replaced because the system is discontinued, which quietly turns a repairable door into a replacement.
  • A site that has changed around the door: a new bushfire attack level assessment, a boundary building, or a household that now needs a step-free entry.

Timing an entry door job to the Australian year

The calendar runs the other way here, so any advice about beating winter points at the wrong months. Summer is December to February and winter is June to August, and across the tropical north the useful division is the wet season and the dry rather than warm and cold. Schedule the job so the opening is never sheeted over when the weather that tests your address arrives: storms and the wet in the north, cold fronts and driving rain in the south, and the local fire season anywhere on bushfire prone land.

Lead time is the part people underestimate. An entry door is measured, then made, and the gap between the deposit and the installation is usually longer than the installation itself, so book the site measure well before the season you are aiming at.

Sealing is worth doing in the same visit rather than later, because it is a code requirement and not a comfort extra. An external door serving a conditioned space, or a habitable room in climate zones four to eight, must be sealed, and the code names the seal: a draft protection device at the bottom edge, with a foam or rubber compressible strip, a fibrous seal or the like acceptable at the other edges. There are exemptions in warmer zones where the only air-conditioning is an evaporative cooler, which depends on air moving through the house.

Who is allowed to install your front door, state by state

New South Wales is the strictest about glazing specifically. It treats glazing as a named trade, covering the installation of glass, acrylic or similar materials into prepared openings such as windows, door panels, screens, fences, balustrades or partitions, and extending to fabricating and installing framing supports and to fitting prefabricated windows. A contractor licence is needed once the combined labour and materials value passes the threshold in the Home Building Act 1989, and unlicensed residential building work carries heavy penalties for individuals and much heavier ones for companies.

The other states work by value and by class of work. Queensland requires a QBCC licence for building work above its threshold, with a shorter list of work needing a licence at any value at all, including plumbing and drainage, gas fitting, chemical termite management, fire protection, completed residential building inspection, building design, site classification and mechanical services; the QBCC tells homeowners plainly to ask to see the contractor's licence, the physical card or the digital one. Western Australia allows only a registered building practitioner or registered building contractor to carry out particular building work under the Building Services (Registration) Act 2011, with the Building Services Board as the registration authority supported by Building and Energy, and a higher value trigger for Class 10a work such as a garage or carport. In Victoria, builders doing domestic building work above the state's threshold must be registered and their registration can be checked on the regulator's practitioner search, while a glazier doing only glazing work is treated differently from a builder.

LokalMatch sits in front of that check rather than replacing it. You write down the entry door job once, saying whether the frame is staying, what the opening measures, whether there are side lights or a highlight, how close the wall is to a boundary and whether the address is bushfire prone, and installers who cover your postcode contact you directly. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not fit doors, does not set or quote prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so checking the licence number and its class on your own state's register is still your job.

Contracts, deposits and the cover that should be in place before you pay

Above the contract threshold in your state the paperwork stops being optional. New South Wales requires a written contract, caps the deposit at ten per cent for both small and large jobs, gives five clear business days of cooling off on large jobs, and requires the Consumer Building Guide, a checklist of seventeen items, plans and specifications, a progress payment schedule and the Home Building Compensation certificate for those larger contracts, with a signed copy back to you within five days.

Victoria approaches the same problem from the money side. The deposit is capped at ten per cent for contracts under the state's threshold and five per cent at or above it, homeowners are told not to pay the deposit until the builder produces a certificate of currency for the property, and not to pay in advance because insurance may not cover work paid for before it is done. Queensland makes cover compulsory for residential construction work above the scheme's value, with the contractor paying the premium that is collected from you through the contract, and a non-completion claim only available where you hold a fixed-price contract with a licensed contractor.

Under all of it sit the Australian Consumer Law guarantees. A door and its hardware are goods that must be of acceptable quality, match their description and be fit for a purpose you made known, with spare parts and repair facilities available for a reasonable time; the installation is a service that must be carried out with acceptable care and skill. Those rights cannot be taken away by a sign, a contract term or an expired warranty, so keep the order confirmation naming the door, the glass type and any bushfire assessment somewhere you will find it in five years.

Front Doors: frequently asked questions

Does my new front door have to be safety glass?

Any glass in the door itself does, as Grade A safety glazing material, and an unframed glass door needs toughened safety glass of at least ten millimetres nominal thickness or laminated toughened glass of at least ten millimetres total. Framed glass within three hundred millimetres of the edge of the doorway generally needs Grade A too. Check the permanent etch or label on each pane after installation.

Can I keep my existing frame and just replace the door?

Often yes, and it is the cheaper and less disruptive job because the flashings, the reveal and the external finish stay untouched. It only works where the frame is square, sound and dry, and where the new leaf can be matched to the existing hinge and lock positions. If the jamb is decayed at the base or the frame has moved, a complete unit is the honest answer.

Do I need a licensed contractor for a single front door?

It depends on the value and on your state. New South Wales licenses glazing as a trade in its own right above its threshold, Queensland requires a QBCC licence above a low value, Western Australia restricts particular building work to registered practitioners and contractors, and Victoria requires registration for domestic building work above its threshold. Look the licence up on the state register rather than trusting the quote letterhead.

Are draught seals around an entry door actually required?

In much of the country, yes. An external door serving a conditioned space, or a habitable room in climate zones four to eight, must be sealed, with a draft protection device at the bottom edge and a compressible strip, fibrous seal or the like at the other edges. Warmer zones where the only air-conditioning is evaporative are exempt, since that system relies on air moving through the house.

How long before I want it finished should I order?

Longer than feels reasonable. The door is manufactured after a site measure, so the order, the making and the delivery usually outrun the installation by weeks. If you want it done before the southern winter, before the northern wet season or before your district's fire season, count backwards from that date and add the lead time your installer puts in writing.

What should I keep after the job is finished?

The contract and the certificate of any statutory cover, the order confirmation naming the door, its glass and hardware, photographs of the safety glazing marks, the manufacturer's warranty and the installer's workmanship warranty. Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply whatever the warranty says, but a claim goes much faster when you can show exactly what was supplied and who supplied it.

Sources

  1. NCC 2022 Volume Two Part H1 Structure, clause H1D8 Glazing (AS 2047 and AS 1288)
  2. ABCB Housing Provisions Part 8.4 Glazing human impact
  3. ABCB Housing Provisions Part 13.4 Building sealing
  4. NSW Government: Glazing work licences
  5. QBCC: Who must hold a QBCC licence
  6. Western Australian Government: Builders' registration
  7. Consumer Affairs Victoria: About builders, tradespeople and other building practitioners
  8. Consumer Affairs Victoria: Deposits and payments
  9. NSW Government: Guide to providing home building contracts
  10. QBCC: What is home warranty insurance
  11. ACCC: Consumer guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of front door

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare door installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask door installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for front door

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Front door permits and local rules

Some front door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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