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Tap Repair

Tap Repair near you

Australians call it a tap. Faucet is the American word, and you will see it on imported packaging and on overseas websites, but no plumber in this country will use it and no supplier here will list parts under it. A tap repair covers a spout that drips after the handle is closed, water weeping from the spindle or the base, a mixer that has become stiff or will not hold a temperature, and the leaks that appear behind the wall or inside the vanity rather than in the bowl.

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What has actually failed depends on the type. Older capstan taps seal by squeezing a washer onto a seat, so they drip when the washer hardens or the seat pits. Quarter-turn taps and mixers use ceramic discs or a cartridge instead, which wear far more slowly but fail differently, usually through a damaged seal, grit caught between the discs or a perished O-ring on the body.

Pressure is the part householders rarely think about. The National Construction Code requires a cold water service to deliver a working pressure of not less than 50 kPa and a static pressure within the building of not more than 500 kPa, and a service sitting near or above that upper figure shortens the life of every washer, seal and flexible hose in the house. A tap that drips again within months of being repaired is often telling you about the pressure rather than the tap.

Tap types in Australian homes, and how each one starts to leak

  • Capstan or washer taps, the traditional pair of separate hot and cold handles turned through several revolutions, which drip at the spout when the washer hardens and leak at the handle when the spindle O-ring or packing wears.
  • Quarter-turn ceramic disc taps, which move through ninety degrees and use two polished discs rather than a washer, and which usually fail because grit has scored a disc or a seal has perished rather than through ordinary wear.
  • Mixer taps, where a single lever sets both flow and temperature through one cartridge, so a worn cartridge shows up as a drip, a stiff lever or a temperature that wanders during a shower.
  • Wall-mounted taps over a kitchen sink or laundry trough, where the working parts sit inside the wall behind a flange and a leak can run into the cavity long before anything shows on the surface.
  • Pillar taps mounted through the benchtop or basin, which can also leak where the body seals against the surface and send water into the cupboard rather than down the waste.
  • Outdoor garden taps and hose taps, which are exposed to sun and knocks and are the ones most often left dripping because the loss is out of sight.
  • Laundry trough taps, which typically get the roughest use in the house and are frequently the first set to need attention.

Signs a tap needs repair rather than a harder twist

  • The spout keeps dripping once the tap is closed, or stops only if you lean on the handle, which is the point at which people start damaging the seat.
  • Water appears around the spindle or under the handle whenever the tap is running.
  • The handle has become stiff, gritty or loose, or no longer lines up where it used to when closed.
  • A mixer will not hold a steady temperature, or swings between hot and cold as other outlets are used.
  • Flow from one tap has dropped while the rest of the house is unaffected, which usually points at the aerator or the cartridge rather than the supply.
  • The cupboard under the sink or vanity is damp, swollen or smells musty, or the wall behind a wall-mounted tap is discoloured.
  • A banging or hammering noise as the tap is closed quickly, which is a pressure problem the tap is merely reporting.

Where the leak actually is: spout, spindle, wall or hose

A drip from the spout and a weep from the handle are different faults with different parts, and saying which one you have shortens the visit. Water leaving the spout with the tap closed means the seal that shuts off flow has failed, so on a capstan tap that is the washer and the seat it presses against, and on a quarter-turn tap or mixer it is the disc set or the cartridge. Water appearing around the spindle or the base while the tap runs, and stopping when it is closed, means a seal on the moving part rather than the shut-off itself.

Leaks that are not at the tap at all are the ones worth catching early. Wall-mounted taps conceal their working parts in the cavity, so a failed seal there runs inside the wall and the first evidence is often a stain, a soft patch of plasterboard or a swollen kitchen cupboard. Under a sink or vanity, the braided flexible hoses connecting the tap to the isolating valves sit under mains pressure permanently and fail at the crimped ends or where they have been kinked around a waste pipe. A hose that is bulging, rusted at the collar or weeping is replaced rather than tightened.

Repeat failures usually have a cause upstream. Where the static pressure in the building exceeds what the Code allows, or where water hammer slams through the pipework each time a tap or an appliance valve shuts, seals and washers are being asked to absorb that punishment every day. A plumber who finds the same tap back on the list a few months later should be checking the pressure and any pressure limiting valve, not simply fitting another washer.

WaterMark certification, and why a bargain tap can be refused

Tapware is a certified product class in Australia, and this catches out homeowners who buy online. The National Construction Code requires any plumbing or drainage product of a type listed on the WaterMark Schedule of Products to be WaterMark certified, and it must be certified before it can be installed and installed by a licensed plumbing practitioner. Selling a non-certified product here is legal. Installing it is the part that is not: where a product type is on the Schedule of Products and is not WaterMark certified, a licensed plumber is not permitted to install it.

A compliant product carries its evidence with it. It is marked with the WaterMark trademark, the WaterMark licence number and the applicable product specification, it is listed on the WaterMark product database, and it is supplied with a Scope of Use statement setting out what it is intended for. The scheme explicitly extends to products bought through online stores including overseas marketplaces, which is precisely where uncertified tapware tends to come from.

You can settle this before you spend anything. Search the WaterMark product database by licence number, by product type, brand name, model name or model ID, or by licensee name, and if the product is not there ask the supplier for the certification information before buying. The Australian Building Codes Board lists the consequences of installing an uncertified product where certification is required as the cost of replacing materials, product failure resulting in building damage and loss, and possible voided insurance, and a local plumbing authority may simply refuse to accept the installation.

Which tap work you may do yourself, and which is licensed

Tap repair sits closer to the homeowner end of plumbing than most jobs, but the line is drawn by each state rather than nationally. Western Australia is the most explicit about it: plumbing work there may only be done by someone licensed by the Plumbers Licensing Board, while minor tasks such as replacing a showerhead or clearing a blocked pipe are excluded and homeowners may legally do them. Its category of minor plumbing work is the testing, maintenance, repair or replacement of existing plumbing, and the examples given include tap repairs and replacements on a like-for-like basis, meaning the fitting is already installed in place before the work begins.

Other states set the threshold lower. New South Wales requires a licence or certificate before you do any plumbing, draining or gasfitting work, regardless of the cost of the work and regardless of whether the property is residential, commercial or industrial, and doing that work unlicensed is a breach of the Home Building Act 1989. Victoria allows plumbing work only by a plumber holding current registration or a licence, or by a plumbing apprentice. In Queensland, work necessary for extending, altering, replacing or removing supply pipes in an existing building is one of the twelve categories of notifiable work set out in schedule 1 of the Plumbing and Drainage Regulation 2019, which a licensed plumber registers with the Queensland Building and Construction Commission on a Form 4 or 4a.

The practical reading is that changing a washer on an existing tap is at the householder end of the scale in some states and not in others, while anything that alters the pipework, moves an outlet, replaces a wall-mounted body or adds a tap where none existed is licensed work everywhere. In Western Australia there is a further wrinkle worth knowing: licensed plumbing contractors there self-certify and remain responsible for the work they perform for six years from completion, and they must keep a record of minor plumbing work for at least six years as well.

Getting more life out of the taps you have

  • Close taps gently rather than forcing them shut, since the extra turn crushes the washer onto the seat and is what wears both out early.
  • Clean the aerator at the end of the spout when flow from one tap weakens or sprays sideways, and refit it with its washer the way it came out.
  • Deal with water hammer rather than living with it, because the shock that makes the noise is also loading every seal in the house.
  • Ask your plumber whether the static pressure at the property is within the range the Code sets, and whether a pressure limiting valve is fitted and still working.
  • Have the braided flexible hoses under sinks and vanities looked at while a plumber is already on site, and replace any that are kinked, corroded at the collar or bulging.
  • Find and exercise the isolating valves under each fixture and the main tap at the meter, so that a failure later is an inconvenience instead of a flood.
  • Have a dripping garden tap repaired rather than ignored, since an outdoor drip runs unseen and unheard for months.

What changes the price of a tap repair

  • Whether the fault is the shut-off seal, a spindle seal or the tap body itself, since each means a different part and a different amount of dismantling.
  • The tap type, because a washer on a capstan tap, a ceramic disc set and a proprietary mixer cartridge are not comparable pieces of work.
  • Whether the cartridge or disc set is a current, obtainable part or has to be tracked down for a discontinued model.
  • Whether the tap is deck-mounted and accessible or wall-mounted, where the body sits in the cavity and the wall may have to be opened and made good.
  • Whether working isolating valves exist at the fixture, or the whole property has to be shut down at the meter to do the work.
  • How many taps are done in the one visit, since the attendance is shared across them.
  • Whether the underlying problem is pressure, in which case a pressure limiting valve is the real repair and the tap is only the symptom.
  • Whether the visit is booked in ordinary hours or called out because a tap will no longer shut off at all.

Your rights if the tap drips again, and how LokalMatch fits in

A tap repair is a service supplied to a consumer, so the Australian Consumer Law's guarantees apply on top of anything written on the invoice. Service providers must carry out services with an acceptable level of care and skill, services and any resulting products must be fit for any purpose you made known, and where no time frame was agreed the work must be supplied within a reasonable time. Those guarantees cannot be written out of a business's terms.

The remedy depends on how serious the failure is. Where the problem is minor, the business must fix it free of charge, and it is the business that chooses how. Where the problem is major, which the ACCC describes as a service that creates an unsafe situation, that has one serious problem or several smaller ones that would have stopped you buying it had you known, or that cannot be used for its normal purpose and cannot easily be fixed within a reasonable time, you are the one who chooses: cancel the contract and seek a refund, or keep it and pay a lower price. A tap that is dripping again a fortnight later is a reasonable thing to raise in those terms, in writing, with the original business given the chance to return.

LokalMatch is only the introduction. You describe the tap problem once, with your postcode, which tap it is, whether it drips from the spout or weeps at the handle and whether anything is wet in the cupboard below, and plumbing businesses covering your area contact you directly. Those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not repair taps, does not set prices or quote on anyone's behalf, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so checking the licence on your state regulator's register before work starts is still your step.

Tap Repair: frequently asked questions

Is a faucet the same thing as a tap?

Yes. Faucet is simply the American word for what Australians call a tap, and you will meet it on imported fittings, overseas instructions and international websites. Here the trade, the suppliers and the spare parts all use tap, mixer or tapware, so searching for tap washers or a mixer cartridge will find what a search for faucet parts will not.

Can I change a tap washer myself in Australia?

It depends on your state. Western Australia treats the repair or replacement of an existing tap on a like-for-like basis as minor plumbing work and lets homeowners do minor tasks such as replacing a showerhead or clearing a blocked pipe. New South Wales is stricter, requiring a licence or certificate for any plumbing work regardless of its cost, and Victoria allows plumbing work only by a registered or licensed plumber or an apprentice. Anything that alters pipework or moves an outlet is licensed work everywhere.

My tap dripped again a few months after it was repaired. Why?

Usually because something is chewing through seals faster than it should. The most common causes are a pitted seat that was never re-cut, so a new washer cannot seal against it, and excessive pressure in the building. The Code sets a static pressure within the building of not more than 500 kPa, and a property above that, or one suffering water hammer, will keep destroying washers until the pressure itself is dealt with.

I bought a tap online and my plumber refused to fit it. Can they do that?

They can, and in most cases they must. Tapware is a product type covered by the WaterMark Certification Scheme, and where a product type is listed on the WaterMark Schedule of Products but is not certified, a licensed plumber is not permitted to install it. The scheme covers products bought through online stores including overseas marketplaces. Search the WaterMark product database before buying, and ask the supplier for certification details if the listing does not show them.

Water is coming out of the wall behind my kitchen tap. Is that the tap?

It may be, and it should be looked at promptly either way. Wall-mounted taps have their working parts inside the wall cavity, so a failed seal there leaks into the wall rather than into the sink, and the damage to framing, plasterboard and cabinetry accumulates unseen. Turn the water off at the isolating valve or the main tap at the meter and have it assessed rather than waiting to see whether it dries out.

Should I repair the tap or replace it?

Repair is usually right where the body is sound and the part is obtainable, since washers, disc sets and cartridges are consumables designed to be replaced. Replacement makes more sense where the body is corroded or cracked, where the cartridge for that model can no longer be sourced, or where the tap no longer suits the household. Replacing a tap is a bigger regulatory step than repairing one, and any new tapware has to be WaterMark certified.

Sources

  1. National Construction Code Volume Three, Part B1 Cold water services
  2. WaterMark Certification Scheme: What is WaterMark?
  3. NSW Government: Plumbing, draining and gasfitting work
  4. Government of Western Australia: Plumbers licensing
  5. Government of Western Australia: Information for licensed plumbers
  6. Victorian plumbing regulator: Plumbing registration and licensing
  7. QBCC: Categories of notifiable work
  8. ACCC: Consumer rights and guarantees
  9. ACCC: Repair, replace, refund, cancel

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of faucet repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of problem and how easy it is to find
  • Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
  • Parts and fixtures chosen
  • Age and material of the existing pipes
  • Emergency, evening or weekend service
  • Permits and inspections, where required

How to compare plumbers before you hire

  • Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your area, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
  • Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
  • For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
  • Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
  • If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.

Questions to ask plumbers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for plumbing work in my area?
  • Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
  • What do you think is causing the problem?
  • Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
  • Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
  • What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for faucet repair

  • An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
  • Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
  • No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
  • Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap

Faucet repair permits and local rules

Some faucet repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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