Exterior Doors
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An exterior door in an Australian house has more jobs than any other opening. It is the entry everyone judges the house by, the weakest point for security, a large piece of the wall's weatherproofing, a draught path the energy provisions now care about, and on bushfire prone land a place where embers try to get in. It is also, increasingly, the place where a house either is or is not usable by someone with a walking frame.
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The code splits doors in a way worth knowing before you shop. Framed sliding and swinging glazed doors, including French and bi-fold doors, are part of the AS 2047 family along with windows, so they are designed and constructed as external glazed assemblies. Internal doors, revolving doors and frameless sliding doors sit outside that and are dealt with under AS 1288. Glass in a door is human impact territory in any case, where Grade A safety glazing material is the norm rather than the upgrade.
Two more Australian rules shape door jobs. Livable housing design provisions for new Class 1a houses, which commenced on the first of October 2023 and a year later in Tasmania, require a step-free path to a dwelling entrance door and at least one level, step-free entrance into the home. And a door in a wall close to a boundary can be caught by fire separation requirements that dictate the door itself.
Types of exterior door, and which standard each one falls under
- Hinged entry doors, solid or with glazed panels and side lights, usually the door the fire separation and security questions land on.
- Framed sliding glazed doors, including stacking configurations, which are within the AS 2047 family and are the most common back-of-house opening in Australia.
- Bi-fold and French doors, also framed glazed doors under that scope, and the ones most often asked to open a living room onto a deck.
- Frameless sliding doors, which the Housing Provisions expressly exclude from the windows and external glazed doors part and which are dealt with under AS 1288.
- Screen and security doors fitted over an entry or slider, which on bushfire prone land may also be part of the ember protection strategy.
- The door between an attached garage and the house, which is an internal door in use but often sits in a wall with fire requirements of its own.
- Laundry and side doors, usually the most neglected and the most likely to be rotten at the bottom rail.
Door glass: where safety glazing is required and how to check it
The human impact provisions apply to areas people move through in everyday activities where someone could fall into or against a glazed panel, which is a fair description of every doorway in a house. Glass in a door must be Grade A safety glazing material, and an unframed glass door needs toughened safety glass of at least ten millimetres nominal thickness or laminated toughened safety glass.
The panels around the door matter as much as the door. Framed glass within three hundred millimetres of the nearest edge of the doorway opening requires Grade A safety glazing material, unless the lowest visible sight line is more than one point two metres above the highest abutting finished floor level. Glazing whose lowest sight line is less than five hundred millimetres above that floor level is treated as low-level glazing with its own requirements, and a large area of clear glass beside a door has to be made visible with an opaque band not less than twenty millimetres high, positioned with its upper edge not less than seven hundred millimetres and its lower edge not more than one point two metres above the floor.
You can verify all of this after the fact, which is unusual in building work. Safety glazing carries permanent etching or a label stating the standard, the manufacturer, the grade, the thickness and the type of glass, so walk up to a newly installed door and read the corner of the pane before you make the final payment.
Thresholds, landings and step-free entry
The bit of a door job most likely to be got wrong is the floor under it. Where the sill of a threshold opens onto a stairway or ramp providing a change in level greater than three risers or five hundred and seventy millimetres, a landing is required, and it must extend across the full width of the doorway. Landings have a minimum length of seven hundred and fifty millimetres, reduced to six hundred millimetres for non-habitable rooms, and a gradient no steeper than one in fifty. Where a doorway threshold is more than two hundred and thirty millimetres above the surface it adjoins, it must incorporate steps built to the ordinary riser and going rules.
New houses now have to think about the opposite problem as well. The livable housing provisions for Class 1a buildings require a continuous, step-free path from the pedestrian entry, garage or parking space to a dwelling entrance door, and at least one level, step-free entrance door into the dwelling, with internal doors and corridors on that entry level that allow unimpeded movement. There are limited exemptions where site conditions such as a steep slope make it impracticable, but the rest of the livable housing requirements still apply.
For the door itself, the weatherproofing route is the same one used for windows: framed external glazed doors are designed and constructed as glazed assemblies to AS 2047, and the wall, including the openings around doors, has to prevent water penetration that would cause dampness or deterioration. Ask how the sill, jambs and head are flashed and drained, particularly where a sliding door sill meets a deck or a paved terrace with nowhere for water to go.
Seals, draughts and the upkeep an Australian door needs
Draught sealing around doors is a code requirement, not just good practice. An external door serving a conditioned space, or a habitable room in the cooler climate zones, must be sealed, and the code is specific about how: the seal at the bottom edge of a door must be a draft protection device, while the other edges may be a foam or rubber compressible strip, a fibrous seal or the like. There are exemptions in some warm zones where the only air-conditioning is evaporative cooling, which relies on air moving through the house.
Those seals are also the cheapest comfort fix in most homes, and the first thing to check when a room will not hold its temperature. They wear out quietly: a bottom seal dragged over a tiled threshold for a decade is usually flattened long before anyone notices the draught.
- Re-coat timber doors on the weather side before the finish crazes, and pay attention to the top and bottom edges that nobody paints.
- Rinse and lubricate locks, hinges and sliding door tracks in coastal areas, where salt seizes hardware first.
- Vacuum grit from slider tracks and check the rollers before they chew the track itself.
- Check and replace the bottom seal and the compressible strips when they no longer touch the frame.
- Adjust hinges before a door drops far enough to bind, which is what cracks the frame and the strike plate.
- Check that the threshold still drains and that a deck or paving has not been built up against it.
- Look at gaps around the frame before the fire season if you are on bushfire prone land, since a gap under a door is an ember path.
Doors near a boundary, bushfire sites and who may do the work
Proximity to a boundary changes the door. An external wall of a house less than nine hundred millimetres from an allotment boundary other than a road boundary, or less than one point eight metres from another building on the same allotment, must meet fire-resisting construction requirements, with a fire resistance level of not less than sixty sixty sixty tested from the outside as one accepted form. Openings in such a wall must then be protected, and for a doorway that means a self-closing solid core door not less than thirty five millimetres thick, with non-openable fire windows or equivalent construction used for glazed openings. South Australia adds a requirement for walls close to a brush fence.
On designated bushfire prone land, the house and its associated decks must be designed and constructed to reduce the risk of ignition from a bushfire, with the deemed-to-satisfy path being construction to AS 3959 at the bushfire attack level assessed for the site, running from BAL-Low up to BAL-FZ. As the level rises the constraints on doors, glazing, screening and the gaps around frames tighten, so get the assessment done before choosing a door.
Licensing follows the usual state lines, by value and by type of work, with New South Wales also licensing glazing as a trade in its own right and Western Australia restricting particular building work to registered practitioners and contractors. LokalMatch is where the search for those businesses starts: you describe the door once, saying whether it is an entry door, a slider or a bi-fold, what the opening measures, whether it is being replaced like for like or changed, and whether the site is bushfire prone, and matched installers contact you directly. They pay for those requests. LokalMatch does not fit doors, does not set or quote prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so checking the licence and the product certification is still your job.
Common exterior door faults in Australian homes
- A door that binds in humid weather and swings free in the dry, which is timber moving and usually needs the hinges or the frame corrected rather than the door planed.
- Hinges that have dropped, leaving the door catching on the sill and the lock no longer meeting the strike.
- Water tracking under a sliding door sill in driving rain, most often a blocked or badly detailed drainage path rather than a failed door.
- Corroded rollers and tracks on sliders near the coast, which make the door heavy long before it fails outright.
- Rot in the bottom rail of a timber door or its frame, where the paint film failed on the weather side.
- Gaps under and around the door that let in draughts, dust, insects and embers.
- Security screens that have sagged out of square, or an entry door with a lock that no longer aligns with its keeper.
- Glazed panels beside a door with no visible safety glazing mark, which is worth checking in any older house.
Contracts and cover for door work
Where a door job forms part of a residential building contract above your state's threshold, the usual protections apply. New South Wales requires a written contract above its threshold, caps the deposit at ten per cent for both small and large jobs, gives a cooling-off period of five clear business days on large jobs and requires the Consumer Building Guide and a Home Building Compensation certificate. Queensland requires cover under the Home Warranty Scheme for residential building work above its threshold, with the contractor paying the premium based on the insurable value.
A door is both a product and an installation, and the consumer guarantees follow that split. As goods, the door and its hardware must be of acceptable quality and match their description, and manufacturers must provide spare parts and repair facilities for a reasonable time after purchase, which is worth knowing when a proprietary lock fails. As a service, the installation must be carried out with due care and skill, be fit for the purpose you made known and be supplied within a reasonable time.
Keep the order confirmation naming the door, the glazing type and any bushfire attack level assessment, the hardware details, the manufacturer's warranty and the installer's workmanship warranty together. When a bi-fold stops folding properly in its fourth summer, that file is what determines who fixes it.
Exterior Doors: frequently asked questions
Does the glass in my front door have to be safety glass?
Glass in a door must be Grade A safety glazing material, and an unframed glass door needs toughened safety glass of at least ten millimetres nominal thickness or laminated toughened glass. Framed glass within three hundred millimetres of the edge of the doorway usually needs Grade A as well. Safety glazing is permanently etched or labelled with the standard, grade, thickness and type, so you can check what is there.
Is there a rule about the step down from my back door?
Yes. A landing is required where the sill of a threshold opens onto a stairway or ramp with a change greater than three risers or five hundred and seventy millimetres, and it must run the full width of the doorway, with a minimum landing length of seven hundred and fifty millimetres and a gradient no steeper than one in fifty. A threshold more than two hundred and thirty millimetres above the adjoining surface has to incorporate proper steps.
Do new houses have to have a step-free front door?
New Class 1a houses covered by the livable housing provisions, which commenced on the first of October 2023 and a year later in Tasmania, need a continuous step-free path to a dwelling entrance door and at least one level, step-free entrance into the home. Limited exemptions exist where the site makes it impracticable, such as a steep slope, but the remaining livable housing requirements still apply.
My side door is close to the fence. Does that change anything?
It can. An external wall less than nine hundred millimetres from an allotment boundary other than a road boundary, or less than one point eight metres from another building on the same allotment, attracts fire-resisting construction requirements, and openings in such a wall must be protected, with a self-closing solid core door not less than thirty five millimetres thick being one accepted form for a doorway. Check the setback before ordering anything.
Do I really need draught seals on an external door?
In much of the country they are required rather than optional. An external door serving a conditioned space, or a habitable room in the cooler climate zones, must be sealed, with a draft protection device at the bottom edge and a compressible strip or fibrous seal at the other edges. Some warm zones are exempt where the only air-conditioning is evaporative cooling, which depends on air moving through the house.
My timber door sticks every summer. What is the fix?
Usually the hinges or the frame rather than the door. Timber takes up moisture in humid weather and moves, so a door planed to fit in February often rattles by August. Have the hinges adjusted and the frame checked for square first, and make sure the top and bottom edges are properly coated, since an unsealed edge is how a door drinks moisture in the first place.
Sources
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 8.4 Glazing human impact
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 11.2 Stairway and ramp construction (landings at doorways)
- NCC 2022 Volume Two Part H8 Livable housing design
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 9.2 Fire separation of external walls
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 13.4 Building sealing
- NCC 2022 Volume Two Part H1 Structure (glazed assemblies, AS 2047 and AS 1288)
- NCC 2022 Volume Two Part H7: Construction in designated bushfire prone areas
- NSW Government: Guide to providing home building contracts
- QBCC: Queensland Home Warranty Scheme
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of door installation
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Number, size and style of windows or doors
- Frame material and glass options
- Full-frame replacement or insert
- Repairs to rotted framing or sills
- Interior and exterior trim and capping
- Access, including upper floors
How to compare door installers before you hire
- Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
- Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
- Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
- Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
- For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.
Questions to ask door installers before you hire
- Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
- How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
- Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
- How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
- Will your own crew do the installation?
When to call a pro for door installation
- Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
- Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
- A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.
Door installation permits and local rules
Some door installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingGuides about door installation
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Window Installers guide
Putting a window into an Australian house is regulated at three separate points, and a good installer can tell you which rule applies to which part of the job.
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Window Replacement guide
Most Australian homes reach a point where patching the windows stops being worth it: aluminium frames pitted by salt air, timber sashes gone at the bottom rail, hardware nobody makes any more, or glass that would not be…
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