Battery Storage
Battery Storage near you
Home battery storage puts a rechargeable store between your solar array, your house and the grid, so that energy generated in the middle of the day can be used in the evening instead of exported. In Australia that proposition has become compelling for a specific reason: rooftop solar is common, daytime export is worth less than it once was, and household consumption peaks after the sun has gone.
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What decides a battery installation, though, is not the arithmetic. It is where the thing may be put. A battery is a concentrated store of energy in a box on the side of a house, and Australian installation practice restricts its location accordingly: away from habitable rooms and escape routes, protected from heat, with clearances and, in many positions, a fire-resisting barrier between the battery and anything on the other side of the wall. An installer who walks the property and rules out three of the four places you had in mind is doing the job properly.
The rest is grid connection and switchboard work. A battery changes the electrical behaviour of the property, so the local distribution network business has to be involved, the switchboard usually has to accommodate new protection, and the whole installation is licensed electrical work carried out by people with solar and storage accreditation on top of an electrical licence.
Battery arrangements, and what each one does when the power goes out
- An alternating-current coupled battery with its own inverter, which can be added to an existing solar system without replacing the solar inverter.
- A direct-current coupled battery sharing a hybrid inverter with the array, which is generally more efficient and is usually decided at the time the solar is installed.
- A hybrid inverter retrofit, where the existing solar inverter is replaced so that storage and generation run through one unit.
- A battery with no backup function, which shifts energy into the evening but goes dark with everything else in a blackout.
- A battery with whole-home backup, which needs the switchboard reworked so the house can be isolated from the grid safely.
- A battery with an essential-loads circuit, where a nominated set of circuits stays alive in an outage, which is the common compromise.
- Participation in a virtual power plant, where the battery is dispatched by an external party under an agreement you should read before signing.
Where a battery may be installed, and why the location comes first
Australian installation practice treats a battery as a fire load and restricts its position on that basis. The restrictions that matter to a householder are the ones about habitable space: a battery is not installed in a bedroom, in a room used for sleeping, or where a failure would compromise the way people get out of the house. Ceiling spaces, under-floor spaces and positions beside an exit are treated as unsuitable for the same reason.
Heat is the second constraint and a serious one in Australia. A battery on a west-facing wall in direct afternoon sun, or in a sealed uninsulated garage, spends summer at temperatures that shorten its life and increase risk. Installers look for a shaded, ventilated, accessible position, which on many suburban blocks is the south side of the house or a purpose-built enclosure.
Where a battery must be mounted on a wall with habitable space behind it, or close to a boundary, a fire-resisting barrier is used between the battery and what it backs onto. Ask directly what the installer proposes, and be suspicious of a quote that assumes the battery goes wherever the solar inverter already is, because that position was chosen under different rules.
Licensing, network approval and the paperwork you should end up with
Installing a battery is licensed electrical work everywhere in Australia, and the industry runs an accreditation scheme for grid-connected solar and storage on top of the licence. In New South Wales the work produces a Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work, which the electrician lodges with the regulator as the declaration that what was installed is electrically safe, and for a battery that covers the switchboard changes as well as the unit on the wall. Ask which individual attending holds the licence and which holds the accreditation, because they are not always the same person.
The distribution network business also has to be involved, because a battery changes what the property can export and how it behaves during a fault. Connection arrangements differ between networks and between states, and adding storage to an existing approved solar system is a change to that approval rather than a private matter. Ask who is lodging the application and what the network has said before the equipment is ordered.
You should finish with the compliance certificate your state requires, the connection approval, the commissioning report, the manufacturer's documentation, and a clear written explanation of what happens in a blackout. That last document is the one people most often do not have when they need it.
How a battery installation actually runs
- A site assessment that starts with location: what walls are available, what is behind them, how much shade and ventilation there is, and how the battery will be accessed for service.
- A review of the existing solar system, its inverter and its connection approval, since an ageing inverter can change which battery arrangement makes sense.
- An assessment of the switchboard, which frequently needs work to take the new protection, and more work again if whole-home or essential-loads backup is wanted.
- Application to the distribution network business, which takes time and should be started before equipment is ordered.
- Mounting, enclosure and any required fire-resisting barrier, then the electrical connection during a planned outage.
- Commissioning, configuration of how the battery is meant to behave, and testing of the backup function if one has been specified.
- Handover: the certificates, the network approval, the commissioning report, and a demonstration of what the house does when the grid goes down.
What disappoints people about home batteries
The most common disappointment is discovering in the first blackout that the battery does nothing. A battery without a backup function disconnects along with the solar when the grid goes down, for the entirely sound reason that a system feeding a dead network endangers the people working on it. Backup is a separate design decision involving extra equipment and switchboard work, and it has to be specified and paid for deliberately.
The second is capacity that does not match the household. A battery sized on an annual bill rather than on an evening load profile can be too small to get through the peak or too large to be filled by the array on a winter day. The useful conversation is about what the house actually uses between sunset and bedtime, and how much the array generates in the worst month, not about a headline number.
The third is the agreement attached. Where a battery is enrolled in a virtual power plant or an aggregation arrangement, somebody else can discharge it, which is the point but is not always what the owner pictured. Read the terms, particularly around how often the battery can be dispatched, what happens to the manufacturer's warranty, and how you exit.
Living with a battery, and what not to do
- Keep the area around the battery clear: no storage stacked against it, no bins, no garden growing over the ventilation path.
- Keep it out of direct afternoon sun if the position allows any shading at all, because heat is what ages a battery fastest in this country.
- Look at the monitoring occasionally rather than only when something goes wrong, since a slow change in behaviour is the earliest warning available.
- Never open the battery enclosure, and never attempt to work on the direct-current side; both are licensed electrical work with stored energy present.
- Report any swelling, deformation, smell, unusual noise or heat immediately, evacuate if there is any doubt, and call the fire service rather than trying to isolate a battery that is in trouble.
- Test the backup function if you have one, on a planned date, so you find out how the house behaves before an outage tells you.
- Keep the certificates, the connection approval and the commissioning report together, because a future owner and a future service company will both need them.
Warranties, degradation and your consumer rights
Battery warranties are written around degradation rather than simple failure, which makes them unusual. Read what the document promises about retained capacity over time, what conditions attach to it, whether it depends on the battery being installed and operated in a particular way, and whether enrolment in an aggregation scheme changes it. The ACCC is clear that a manufacturer's warranty is an extra promise that applies in addition to your consumer rights and cannot replace, change or take them away.
The consumer guarantees underneath are acceptable quality and durability for the equipment, fitness for a purpose you made known, and care and skill for the installation. Durability is the relevant one for a product sold as lasting many years, and fitness for purpose is the one that bites when a household said they wanted backup in a blackout and did not get it. Put that requirement in writing before the job.
On LokalMatch you describe the property, the existing solar, whether backup matters to you and your postcode in one request, and installers covering that postcode get in touch; the requests they receive are what they pay for. LokalMatch does not install anything, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend the businesses that respond, so checking licences, accreditation and what the quote actually includes stays with you.
Battery Storage: frequently asked questions
Will a home battery keep my house running in a blackout?
Only if it has been specified to. Many batteries shut down with the solar when the grid fails, because a system that keeps feeding a dead network endangers the people repairing it. Backup requires extra equipment and switchboard work so the house can be safely islanded, and it is usually sold either as whole-home backup or as an essential-loads circuit covering a nominated set of outlets. Ask for it explicitly, in writing, and ask for the backup function to be demonstrated at handover.
Can a battery be installed in my garage or under the house?
It depends on the specific position, and this is the question that decides the job. Australian installation practice keeps batteries away from rooms used for sleeping, away from escape routes, and out of ceiling and under-floor spaces, and requires clearances, ventilation and in many positions a fire-resisting barrier between the battery and what is behind the wall. A sealed, uninsulated garage in full afternoon sun is also poor on heat grounds. Have the installer assess the actual walls rather than assuming the solar inverter's position will do.
Do I need approval from my electricity network to install a battery?
Yes. A battery changes how much the property can export and how the installation behaves during a fault, so the local distribution network business has to be involved, and adding storage to an already approved solar system is a change to that approval. Arrangements differ between networks and between states. Ask who is lodging the application and what response the network has given before equipment is ordered, because approval timing is a common cause of delay.
What size battery do I need?
The useful basis is your evening load, not your annual bill. Work out roughly what the household uses between sunset and bedtime, and compare that with what the array generates on a poor winter day, because a battery bigger than the array can refill is capacity you have paid for and will not use. An installer who asks for interval data from your meter or retailer is sizing properly; one who quotes a size from the number on your bill is guessing.
Is it safe to have a lithium battery on the house?
It is, when it is installed where Australian practice allows and by someone qualified to do it. The controls that make it safe are all about location and installation: away from sleeping areas and escape paths, out of ceiling and sub-floor spaces, shaded and ventilated, with the required clearances and any fire-resisting barrier in place. What you should never do is open the enclosure, work on the direct-current side, or store anything against the unit. If a battery ever swells, smells, makes unusual noise or gets hot, leave the area and call the fire service.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of battery storage
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Type and amount of work, from a single fixture to a full rewire
- Condition and age of the existing wiring
- Panel and service capacity
- Distance from the panel to the new circuit
- Access through finished walls and ceilings
- Permits and inspections
How to compare electricians before you hire
- Hire a licensed electrician or electrical contractor for any wiring, panel or new circuit work.
- Ask whether the work needs a permit and inspection, and make sure the electrician arranges it.
- Get a written quote that lists fixtures, materials, patching of walls and ceilings, and permit costs.
- For panel upgrades and EV chargers, ask them to check whether your electrical service can handle the added load.
- Choose someone who explains what they found in plain language before starting.
Questions to ask electricians before you hire
- Are you licensed for electrical work in my area?
- Will you get the permit and arrange the inspection?
- Can my current panel and service handle this work?
- Will you need to open walls or ceilings, and who patches them afterwards?
- Is the price fixed, or could it change once you see the existing wiring?
- What warranty do you offer on your work?
When to call a pro for battery storage
- Burning smells, scorch marks or warm outlets and switches: turn off the circuit at the panel if it's safe to do so and call an electrician.
- Breakers that trip again and again
- Flickering or dimming lights that aren't fixed by changing the bulb
- Any sparking, buzzing or exposed wiring
Battery storage permits and local rules
Some battery storage work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingGuides about battery storage
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Emergency Electricians guide
An electrical emergency in an Australian home is usually one of four things: no power at all, power that keeps cutting out, something that smells, sparks or buzzes at the switchboard, or a shock or tingle from a tap, an…
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Electrical Repairs guide
Electrical repairs are the work of finding and fixing faults in wiring and fittings that already exist: a dead powerpoint, a circuit that trips every time the washing machine spins, lights that flicker at one end of the…
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