Skip to content
LokalMatch

Faucet Repair

Faucet Repair near you

A dripping faucet is the most ordinary plumbing call in an American home, and the easiest one to put off. Each drop looks trivial, but it runs every hour of every day, and on the hot side it wastes water the household has already paid to heat. Faucet repair covers a spout that will not stop dripping, water seeping around the handle or pooling at the base, weak or sputtering flow, a handle gone stiff or loose, and leaks that appear inside the cabinet below.

Tell us about your faucet repair project and we’ll help you find local plumbers who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
On this page

Most of these faults come down to a handful of worn parts: a rubber washer and its seat in an older two-handle faucet, a cartridge or a set of O-rings in most single-handle models, or the supply lines and shutoff valves feeding the fixture. Identifying which design is on the sink tells a plumber which part is failing, and whether this is a short parts job or a sign the fixture has reached the end of its life.

Two federal programs shape what goes back on the sink. EPA's voluntary WaterSense label certifies efficient bathroom sink faucets and aerators, and the Safe Drinking Water Act sets a lead-free standard for the fittings and fixtures that carry water for human consumption. Who may do the work, by contrast, is decided by your state.

Faucet designs in American kitchens and baths, and the part that fails first

Before anyone buys a part, the faucet has to be identified, and the handles give it away. Two handles that turn through several full rotations before the water stops mark a compression faucet, the design common in older housing stock. A single lever that swings side to side and tilts up and down is a cartridge, ball or ceramic disc faucet, and each of those wears out in its own way.

  • Compression: a rubber washer is driven down against a brass seat, so the spout starts to drip once the washer hardens or the seat corrodes, and a wet handle points to worn packing on the stem.
  • Cartridge: a single sleeve controls volume and temperature together, and when the seals inside it wear, the spout drips even though the lever still feels normal.
  • Ball: a slotted metal ball rides on spring-loaded rubber seats, a design with enough small moving parts that seeping around the collar becomes common as it ages.
  • Ceramic disc: two polished discs shear across one another and wear slowly, so a leak here usually means grit trapped between the discs or a cracked disc rather than ordinary wear.
  • Pull-down and pull-out models add a hose and a quick-connect fitting down inside the cabinet, a leak point the older designs never had.

Signs a faucet needs repair rather than another hard turn of the handle

  • The spout keeps dripping after the handle is fully closed, or stops only when you force it shut.
  • Water creeps out around the handle, or collects at the base of the spout every time the faucet runs.
  • The handle grinds, wobbles, or no longer holds the temperature you set.
  • A single-handle faucet swings abruptly from hot to cold with barely any usable range between.
  • The floor of the cabinet underneath is damp, stained, swollen or smells musty.
  • You have started turning the shutoff valve under the sink to stop the drip overnight.

Weak flow at one faucet: the aerator, and what the WaterSense label certifies

When one faucet suddenly runs weak or sprays crooked while the rest of the house is fine, the aerator threaded into the tip of the spout is the first suspect. Its screen traps scale, grit and fragments of pipe stirred up by work on the water main. Unthreading it, rinsing the screen and soaking off the mineral crust solves that complaint more often than any other single step.

The aerator is also the cheapest place to change how much water a faucet uses. EPA reports that WaterSense labeled bathroom sink faucets and accessories use a maximum of 1.5 gallons per minute, cutting a sink's flow by 30 percent or more from the standard 2.2 gallons per minute, and that replacing old bathroom faucets and aerators with labeled models saves the average family 700 gallons of water a year and nearly 11,000 gallons over the lifetime of the faucets. EPA has since published a draft specification proposing to lower that labeled maximum from 1.5 to 1.2 gallons per minute.

The label is not a claim a manufacturer awards itself. EPA states that WaterSense labeled products are backed by independent, third-party certification and have to meet its criteria for performance as well as for efficiency. It does not cover every fixture in the house, though: kitchen faucets are among the categories EPA lists as ineligible for the WaterSense label.

Water in the cabinet: supply lines, shutoff valves and the sprayer hose

Not every puddle under a sink comes from the faucet. Dry everything with a towel, then run the hot and the cold separately and watch where the first bead forms. A leak that shows up only while the basin drains is on the waste side; one that is present with the faucet closed is on the supply side, which stays under pressure day and night and can fail suddenly rather than gradually.

  • Braided supply connectors age, kink and corrode at their crimped ends; any that bulge, rust or weep should be replaced instead of tightened.
  • Compression nuts and ferrules at the shutoff valve loosen with time, or crack if someone has overtightened them.
  • Older multi-turn shutoff valves frequently start weeping at the stem the first time they are moved after years in one position.
  • A failed gasket or dried-out sealant under the faucet base lets water from the countertop run straight down into the cabinet.
  • The pull-down sprayer hose wears where it rubs on the cabinet opening, or drips at its quick-connect coupling.
  • Slip nuts on the trap loosen and their washers flatten, so that leak appears only while the sink is draining.

Repairing the faucet you have, or replacing it with a labeled model

A drip on a structurally sound faucet is normally a parts job, and repair is the sensible call when the body is solid, the finish is intact and the cartridge or washer kit is still sold for that model. Widely distributed American brands keep parts available for a long time, and many honor a warranty on the cartridge itself, so it is worth checking before buying anything.

Replacement wins when parts are discontinued, when the body is cracked or pitted through, when leaks return after each repair, or when the faucet is corroded at the base where it meets the deck. Because the sink is already apart, it is also the practical moment to fit something more efficient, and EPA's product search lists the bathroom sink faucets and accessories that carry the label.

Replacement also has a materials dimension that pure repair does not. Anything newly installed on a potable line should meet the lead-free standard described below, which is worth confirming for a faucet bought secondhand, salvaged from another house or imported through an online marketplace.

Lead-free parts, and the state that decides who may do the work

Swapping a cartridge or cleaning an aerator is homeowner maintenance anywhere in the country. Once work reaches the supply piping, a new shutoff valve, a relocated sink or a fixture where none existed, it becomes regulated plumbing work, and in the United States that regulation is set by the state rather than by Washington.

The materials rule, by contrast, is federal. EPA explains that Section 1417 of the Safe Drinking Water Act defines lead free as a weighted average of 0.25 percent lead across the wetted surfaces of a pipe, pipe fitting, plumbing fitting and fixture, and 0.2 percent lead for solder and flux, and that the Act prohibits using anything that is not lead free in the installation or repair of plumbing providing water for human consumption. EPA also notes that since September 1, 2023, manufacturers and importers introducing regulated plumbing products into commerce must have them certified as lead free.

Licensing differs sharply from state to state. California licenses plumbing contractors under the C-36 classification, which the Contractors State License Board describes as providing a supply of safe water, ample in volume and of suitable temperature, along with proper disposal of fluid waste. Washington instead certifies individual plumbers, and its Department of Labor and Industries sets the journey level credential at four years or more, at least 8,000 hours, working as a trainee under a certified journey level plumber. Ask for the license or certificate number that applies where you live, and confirm it with the agency that issued it.

What changes the scope of a faucet repair visit

On LokalMatch you describe the faucet once — the style, where it leaks, roughly how old it is and whether the shutoff valves still work — and plumbers covering your ZIP code get in touch with you directly. Those pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out the repair, does not set what any plumber charges, and does not vet, rank or recommend the people who respond, so compare the plumbers who contact you and verify each license yourself.

  • Whether the faucet is a mainstream model with parts on the shelf or a discontinued or imported one that has to be sourced.
  • Corroded shutoff valves that must be replaced before the faucet can safely be worked on at all.
  • Parts seized by mineral scale, which are common on hard water and need pullers rather than force.
  • Access: a deep undermount basin, a garbage disposal and a water filter all crowd the space a plumber has to work in.
  • Whether the visit turns into a replacement once the faucet body is opened and inspected.
  • How many fixtures are handled on the same trip, since a second faucet adds far less than a second visit would.

Faucet Repair: frequently asked questions

Why does my faucet still drip after I put in a new washer?

On a compression faucet the brass seat that the washer presses against is probably pitted, so a fresh washer cannot seal against it; the seat has to be dressed or replaced. On a cartridge, ball or ceramic disc faucet there is no washer doing that job at all, so a washer was never the fix — identify the design before buying another part.

Is a dripping faucet an emergency?

Usually not. A drip from the spout can wait for a scheduled appointment, even though it wastes water the whole time. A supply-side leak under the sink is different, because that piping is pressurized around the clock: shut the valve under the sink or the main, and get a plumber out promptly.

Will a WaterSense faucet make my water pressure feel weak?

It should not. EPA selects the flow criteria so labeled products perform acceptably, and says labeled products must meet performance criteria as well as efficiency criteria through independent, third-party certification. If a new faucet does run weak, check the aerator for installation debris and make sure both shutoff valves are opened fully.

Does the federal lead-free rule apply to a repair, or only to new construction?

It applies to repairs too. EPA describes the Safe Drinking Water Act prohibition as covering the installation or repair of plumbing that provides water for human consumption, so the parts used to fix a kitchen or bathroom faucet fall under it. Some products are exempt, including items used exclusively for non-potable service such as irrigation and outdoor watering.

Can I replace a faucet cartridge myself?

On many single-handle faucets, yes, provided the shutoff valves actually close and you can get the exact cartridge for that model. Take the old one with you to match it, note its orientation before pulling it, and stop if it is seized in place — a plumber has pullers that extract a scaled cartridge without cracking the faucet body.

Sources

  1. US EPA WaterSense: Bathroom Faucets
  2. US EPA WaterSense: WaterSense Products
  3. US EPA WaterSense: Product Search
  4. US EPA: Use of Lead Free Pipes, Fittings, Fixtures, Solder and Flux for Drinking Water
  5. California Contractors State License Board: C-36 Plumbing Contractor
  6. Washington State Department of Labor & Industries: Plumber Certification

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

Find plumbers by city

Alaska

Show 1 cities

California

Show 186 cities

Delaware

Show 1 cities

Florida

Show 82 cities

Maine

Show 1 cities

Texas

Show 79 cities

What affects the cost of faucet repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of problem and how easy it is to find
  • Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
  • Parts and fixtures chosen
  • Age and material of the existing pipes
  • Emergency, evening or weekend service
  • Permits and inspections, where required

How to compare plumbers before you hire

  • Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your area, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
  • Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
  • For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
  • Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
  • If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.

Questions to ask plumbers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for plumbing work in my area?
  • Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
  • What do you think is causing the problem?
  • Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
  • Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
  • What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for faucet repair

  • An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
  • Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
  • No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
  • Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap

Faucet repair permits and local rules

Some faucet repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Ready to get faucet repair quotes?

Tell us about your faucet repair project.

Do you offer faucet repair services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.