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Cooker Hood Installation

Cooker Hood Installation near you

A cooker hood is the one piece of kitchen equipment that the Building Regulations have an opinion about. In England, Approved Document F is the statutory guidance on ventilation, and it treats the kitchen as a room that must have extract ventilation to the outside, with the required rate depending on whether a cooker hood extracts to the outside or not. Installing a hood is therefore partly a joinery job, partly an electrical job, and partly a compliance job, and the third part is the one that gets skipped.

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British kitchens make it harder than it sounds. A Victorian terrace has a solid brick rear wall and no obvious duct route. A flat has a shared facade, a fire strategy and a lease. A galley extension has the hob on an internal wall with a bathroom above. A kitchen island needs a duct that runs under a floor or through a ceiling void to reach daylight. Every one of those is a ducting decision first and a hood choice second, which is why the sensible order is to work out where the air can go before choosing the appliance.

The commonest shortcut is a recirculating hood: no duct, a charcoal filter, and the air pushed back into the room. It is a legitimate product and sometimes the only realistic option, but Approved Document F is explicit that a recirculating cooker hood on its own does not provide a means of ventilation that complies with Part F. Knowing that before the units go in is worth a great deal more than discovering it afterwards.

Chimney, integrated, canopy and island hoods: choosing by duct route

  • Chimney hoods, the wall-mounted stainless or glass type, which give the shortest duct run when the hob sits against an external wall.
  • Integrated and telescopic hoods hidden behind a cupboard door or pulled out from under a wall unit, popular in small kitchens and the hardest to service afterwards.
  • Canopy hoods built into the underside of a wall unit, which need the cupboard above sacrificed to the ducting.
  • Island and ceiling hoods, which look the best and cost the most to duct, because the run travels through a floor or ceiling void to reach an outside wall or roof.
  • Downdraft extractors that rise out of the worktop behind the hob and duct down through the base unit, useful where nothing can go above the hob.
  • Ceiling extract units for open-plan kitchens, which are effectively a mechanical extract system and need designing rather than choosing.
  • Recirculating versions of most of the above, which filter and return the air rather than removing it, and which Approved Document F says do not on their own comply with Part F.

What Approved Document F asks a kitchen extract to achieve

The hood you choose changes the number the kitchen has to hit. In Approved Document F Volume 1, the statutory guidance for dwellings in England, an intermittently operated kitchen extract must reach 30 litres per second when a cooker hood extracts to the outside, and 60 litres per second when there is no hood or the hood does not extract outside. That is the whole argument for ducting in one line: a hood that vents outdoors halves what the kitchen's extract has to achieve, and lets a single appliance do the job that would otherwise need a much larger fan somewhere else in the room.

There are two details attached to those figures that installers routinely miss. The diagram accompanying the 30 litres per second case carries a note that the cooker hood should span at least the full width of the cooker, which rules out a slim hood over a wide range. And where a cooker hood is used to extract to the outside, the height of the hood above the hob surface should be either as specified in the manufacturer's instructions or, if no specification is available, between 650 and 750 millimetres. Extract terminals and fans generally should sit as high as practicable and a maximum of 400 millimetres below the ceiling, but the document exempts cooker hoods from that rule, because they are positioned by the hob instead.

Continuous systems are measured differently: for a kitchen the high rate is 13 litres per second, with the continuous rate set by the whole dwelling ventilation requirement rather than the room. Approved Documents are guidance for England; Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland publish their own equivalents, so confirm the standard that applies where you live before specifying anything.

Ducting: the part that decides whether the hood actually works

A hood is only as good as the hole it breathes through, and Approved Document F sets out how that hole should be built. Rigid ducts should be used wherever possible. Flexible ductwork, where it is installed at all, should be used only for final connections, should be a maximum of 1.5 metres in length, and should meet the relevant BSRIA standard. Any flexible duct should be installed so the full internal diameter is maintained and flow resistance is minimised, which means pulling it taut and making sure it does not pass through an opening narrower than the duct itself.

  • Ductwork should be designed to minimise pressure losses by keeping the overall length short, keeping the number of bends down, and sizing the duct to the air flow rate.
  • Each air terminal should have a free area of at least 90 per cent of the free area of its associated duct, which is why a decorative grille with a fine mesh can wreck an otherwise good installation.
  • Duct connections should be both mechanically secured and adequately sealed to prevent leaks, and rigid connectors and jubilee clips should be used on flexible ducting to get a proper seal.
  • The installer should make a visual inspection to confirm there are no obvious defects and that all packaging has been removed, which sounds trivial until you find the polystyrene still inside a duct.
  • Mechanical ventilation systems must be commissioned in accordance with an approved procedure, and Approved Document F includes a completion checklist and commissioning sheet for the installer to complete.
  • Where ducts pass through a fire-resisting structure, a fire compartment or a protected stairway, the requirements of Part B apply as well, which is why flats and terraces need the route checked before it is cut.

Open-flued appliances and the 20 litres per second limit

This is the interaction that turns a simple hood installation into a job for a gas engineer. Approved Document J explains that extract fans lower the pressure in a building, which can cause the spillage of combustion products from open-flued appliances, and that this can occur even if the appliance and the fan are in different rooms. Ceiling fans produce air currents and local depressurisation that can do the same. In buildings where open-flued combustion appliances and extract fans are both installed, the appliances should be able to operate safely whether or not the fans are running.

The limits it gives are specific. For gas appliances, where a kitchen contains an open-flued appliance, the extract rate of the kitchen extract fan should not exceed 20 litres per second, which it also expresses as 72 cubic metres per hour. For oil appliances the limit is 40 litres per second with a pressure jet burner and 20 with a vaporising burner. For solid fuel appliances the advice is to avoid installing extract ventilation in the same room at all, and to seek specialist advice if mechanical extraction is unavoidable.

Read that alongside Approved Document F's 30 litres per second for a ducted hood and the tension is obvious, which is exactly why the guidance also requires testing. A suitable test is to check for spillage when appliances are subjected to the greatest possible depressurisation, with all external doors, windows and adjustable ventilators closed, and several tests may be needed including one with the door to the appliance room closed and all fans in that room on maximum. Approved Document J notes that less obvious fans count too, including those inside domestic appliances such as tumble dryers.

Replacing an old hood or fitting a new one: building control, cabling and Part P

Replacing a hood in an existing kitchen is treated gently by the rules. Approved Document F states that if an extractor fan or cooker hood is replaced and it uses the existing cabling, this does not need to be notified to a building control body. Approved Document P reaches the same conclusion by a different route: only installing a new circuit, replacing a consumer unit, or altering existing circuits in a special location are notifiable, and a kitchen is not a special location. A new switched fused connection unit for a hood, spurred from an existing circuit, is therefore not notifiable, though it must still be installed and tested to BS 7671.

Refurbishment brings its own rule. Approved Document F says that where building work is carried out in a kitchen or bathroom, any existing fans, including cooker hoods where they extract to the outside, should be retained or replaced, and appropriate checks should be made to determine whether any retained ventilation devices are working correctly. If there was no ventilation system in the original room it is not necessary to provide one, but additional ventilation may be necessary if the refurbishment is likely to make the building less compliant with the ventilation requirements than it was before. The document also carries a note that if a combustion appliance is installed in a kitchen where building work is carried out, Part J must be considered.

Ducted or recirculating in a flat, a terrace or a listed building

The honest comparison is not about performance, it is about where the moisture and the grease end up. A ducted hood removes water vapour, cooking odours and grease-laden air from the building. A recirculating hood traps grease in a metal filter and odour in a charcoal cartridge and returns warm, moist air to the kitchen. In a well-insulated modern flat that moisture has nowhere to go and finds the coldest surface in the room, which is how a hood becomes a condensation problem.

  • Flats often prohibit new penetrations of the external wall under the lease or the building's fire strategy, so the recirculating route may be the only one available; check before you buy the hood.
  • A listed building or a property in a conservation area may need consent for a new external vent terminal, which is a separate permission from building control.
  • A solid-wall Victorian terrace can usually be cored through the rear wall, but the internal duct run and the position of the joists decide whether an island hood is realistic.
  • Where recirculation is unavoidable, Approved Document F's kitchen figure of 60 litres per second applies, because the hood is not extracting to the outside, so a separate wall or window fan is doing the compliance work.
  • Recirculating filters are consumables: charcoal cartridges lose effectiveness and are the reason a hood that once controlled smells stops doing so.
  • A ducted hood in an unheated route, such as a loft crossing, needs the condensation risk thought about, because warm wet air meeting cold metal produces water that runs back down the duct.

Filters, grease and keeping a hood quiet

  • Wash metal grease filters regularly, by hand or in a dishwasher if the manufacturer allows, because a saturated filter throttles the airflow the hood was sized for.
  • Replace charcoal filters on a recirculating hood at the interval the manual specifies; they cannot be washed back to life.
  • Keep the duct terminal outside clear of nests, cobwebs and painted-shut louvres, since a stuck backdraught flap makes a good hood useless.
  • Run the hood before you start cooking and for a while after, because extraction works on the plume and the plume starts before the smoke does.
  • Listen for a change in note: a hood that suddenly gets louder is usually pushing against a blockage rather than working harder.
  • Wipe grease off the canopy and the hob surround, because accumulated grease near a heat source is a fire risk as well as a cleaning one.
  • Keep the commissioning sheet with the kitchen paperwork; the measured flow rate on it is the only evidence of what the system achieved on the day.

What goes wrong with a badly installed cooker hood

  • A long flexible duct snaking through a cupboard, which Approved Document F limits to final connections of at most 1.5 metres for good reason.
  • A hood narrower than the hob, when the guidance note on the 30 litres per second case says the hood should span at least the full width of the cooker.
  • A hood mounted too low or too high above the hob, when the guidance is the manufacturer's figure or, absent one, 650 to 750 millimetres.
  • A duct terminating in a loft, a void or a cavity instead of outside, which relocates a moisture problem rather than solving it.
  • A decorative external grille with a free area far below the duct's, throttling the system at the last 50 millimetres.
  • An open-flued gas appliance elsewhere in the house that nobody mentioned, leaving a powerful hood capable of pulling combustion products back into the room.
  • No commissioning and no measured flow rate, so nobody can say whether the installation ever met the rate it was supposed to.

Getting quotes for a cooker hood, and how LokalMatch works

Ask each installer the same three questions and the quotes become comparable: where will the duct run and what will it be made of, what extract rate will the finished system achieve and how will that be demonstrated, and whether anything in the house burns gas or oil on an open flue. A good answer to the first involves rigid duct and a short route. A good answer to the second involves a measurement rather than the figure printed on the hood's box, since a manufacturer's free-air rating is not what a hood delivers at the end of a real duct.

LokalMatch is how you reach those installers. You describe the kitchen, the hob position, the wall construction and what you want the hood to do once, and firms covering your postcode contact you directly. They pay for the requests they receive, and describing the job costs you nothing. LokalMatch does not do installations, does not set or approve prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend the businesses that reply, so checking electrical scheme membership, and bringing in a Gas Safe registered engineer where an open-flued appliance is in the picture, remains yours to arrange.

Cooker Hood Installation: frequently asked questions

What extract rate does a kitchen cooker hood have to achieve?

Approved Document F Volume 1, the statutory guidance for dwellings in England, gives minimum intermittent extract rates by room. For a kitchen where a cooker hood extracts to the outside the figure is 30 litres per second. Where there is no cooker hood, or the cooker hood does not extract to the outside, it is 60 litres per second. For continuous extract systems the kitchen high rate is 13 litres per second, with the continuous rate governed by the whole dwelling ventilation rate. Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland publish their own guidance, so check the standard that applies to you.

Is a recirculating cooker hood enough on its own?

Not for Part F purposes. Approved Document F says in terms that a recirculating cooker hood on its own does not provide a means of ventilation that complies with Part F of the Building Regulations. Its kitchen figure of 60 litres per second is the one that applies where the hood does not extract to the outside, so the compliance work has to be done by a separate wall or window extract. Recirculating hoods remain a reasonable choice for grease and odour where a duct route genuinely is not available, but they should be specified alongside extract ventilation, not instead of it.

How high above the hob should a cooker hood be fitted?

Approved Document F says that where a cooker hood is used to extract to the outside, the height of the extract hood above the hob surface should be either as specified in the manufacturer's instructions or, if no specification is available, between 650 and 750 millimetres. The same guidance notes that the hood should span at least the full width of the cooker. General extract terminals and fans should be as high as practicable and no more than 400 millimetres below the ceiling, but that rule expressly excludes cooker extract hoods.

Do I need to tell building control that I am replacing a cooker hood?

Usually not. Approved Document F states that if an extractor fan or cooker hood is replaced and it uses the existing cabling, this does not need to be notified to a building control body. Approved Document P reaches the same place from the electrical side: notifiable work in a dwelling means installing a new circuit, replacing a consumer unit, or altering existing circuits in a special location such as the zone around a bath or shower, and a kitchen is not a special location. Non-notifiable work still has to be installed and tested to BS 7671.

I have a gas fire or an old back boiler. Does that limit the hood I can fit?

It can. Approved Document J says extract fans lower the pressure in a building, which can cause the spillage of combustion products from open-flued appliances even when the appliance and the fan are in different rooms, and that for gas appliances, where a kitchen contains an open-flued appliance, the extract rate of the kitchen extract fan should not exceed 20 litres per second. It also requires that combustion appliances operate safely whether or not fans are running, demonstrated by spillage testing under the greatest possible depressurisation with doors, windows and adjustable ventilators closed. Get the gas side assessed before choosing the hood.

Can I use flexible ducting to reach the outside wall?

Only for the last stretch. Approved Document F says rigid ducts should be used wherever possible, and that flexible ductwork, where installed, should be used only for final connections, should be a maximum of 1.5 metres long, and should meet the relevant BSRIA standard. It should be pulled taut so the full internal diameter is maintained, and it should not pass through an opening narrower than the duct. Connections should be mechanically secured and sealed, using rigid connectors and jubilee clips on flexible sections.

Sources

  1. Ventilation: Approved Document F (Volume 1: dwellings)
  2. Approved Document F Volume 1, 2021 edition (PDF)
  3. Combustion appliances and fuel storage systems: Approved Document J
  4. Approved Document J, 2010 edition incorporating 2010, 2013 and 2022 amendments (PDF)
  5. Electrical safety in dwellings: Approved Document P
  6. Building Regulations 2010, Schedule 1 (Parts B, F, J and P)
  7. GOV.UK: Approved Documents (collection)

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of range hood

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type and make of appliance
  • The part that has failed and whether it's in stock
  • Diagnostic or service call fee
  • Built-in or hard-to-reach installation
  • Gas, water or venting connections
  • Same-day or after-hours service

How to compare appliance installers before you hire

  • Choose a technician who services your type and make of appliance, and ask whether they carry common parts.
  • Ask what the diagnostic or service call fee is and whether it's applied to the repair.
  • For gas stoves, dryers or other gas appliances, use a technician licensed for gas work in your area.
  • Ask for the repair estimate before any work starts, so you can decide whether it's worth repairing.
  • Check what the warranty covers on parts and labour after the repair.

Questions to ask appliance installers before you hire

  • Do you service this type and make of appliance?
  • What is your diagnostic or service call fee, and is it credited toward the repair?
  • Is it worth repairing, given the appliance's age and condition?
  • Will you need to order parts, and how long will that take?
  • Are you licensed for gas appliance work in my area?
  • What warranty do you give on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for range hood

  • If you smell gas near a stove or dryer, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • An appliance that sparks, smells like burning or trips the breaker: unplug it only if it's safe to do so and call a technician.
  • A washer or dishwasher that leaks onto the floor

Range hood permits and local rules

Some range hood work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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