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Pool Renovation

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A pool renovation in Britain is usually triggered by one of three things: a liner or finish that has reached the end of its life, plant that can no longer be repaired because parts have gone, or an owner who has inherited a pool built to a specification nobody would choose now. The work ranges from a reline and a new pump to stripping the basin back, re-rendering, retiling, replacing the whole circulation system and rebuilding the plant room.

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The part homeowners underestimate is the electrical work. A renovation is when lights move, sockets appear, a heat pump is added, a cover motor is fitted and the plant room is rewired, and all of that happens in and around an area that the Wiring Regulations treat as a special location with its own rules. Section 702 of BS 7671, which covers swimming pools and other basins, divides the space into zones and restricts what may be installed in each. Those restrictions are the reason a pool refit costs more electrically than the same work anywhere else in a garden.

The other thing a renovation does is expose the pool. Once it is empty you can see the structure, the pipework and the buried services, and that is the moment to correct things that would otherwise be sealed in for another twenty years. A good renovation quotation allows for what is found rather than pretending the survey was complete.

What people mean by a pool renovation, from a reline to a rebuild

  • Reline: a new liner in a lined pool, usually with new fittings, and the fastest route back to a usable pool.
  • Resurface: stripping and replacing a rendered or painted finish, or retiling, which needs the basin dry and warm enough to cure.
  • Circulation refit: new pump, filter, valves and pipework, often the point at which a badly designed original hydraulic layout is corrected.
  • Plant room rebuild: relocating or re-equipping the plant, which usually brings new electrical circuits with it.
  • Coping, surround and drainage: the edge detail and the falls around the pool, which decide whether surface water runs into the basin or away from it.
  • Conversion work: adding a heat pump, an automatic cover, a counter-current unit or a new lighting scheme to a pool that was not designed for them.
  • Structural repair: crack repair, movement joints and waterproofing, which is a specialist job and should be quoted by someone who does it regularly.

Section 702 of BS 7671: the zones around a pool, and what may go in each

Electrical installations in the United Kingdom are designed to BS 7671, the Wiring Regulations, and pools have their own section within it. Section 702 covers the basins of swimming pools, paddling pools and fountains and the zones surrounding them, and it applies because the risk of electric shock is increased by wet, partially clothed bodies with reduced body resistance and good contact with earth. The IET, which publishes BS 7671 jointly with BSI, explains that the 17th edition replaced the old zones A, B and C with zones 0, 1 and 2, keeping the same dimensions, and that for a swimming pool zones 1 and 2 may be limited by fixed partitions of at least 2.5m height. The edition matters when you commission work: Amendment 4:2026 is the current published amendment, and the IET states that Amendment 3:2024 remains a valid standard until 15 October 2026, so ask your electrician which one the certificate refers to.

What may be installed changes zone by zone. In zones 0 and 1, switchgear, controlgear, accessories and junction boxes are not to be installed, with an exception for SELV junction boxes in zone 1, and only current-using equipment specifically designed for a swimming pool application is permitted. Socket-outlets may go in zone 1 only where they cannot be placed outside it, and then only more than 1.25m horizontally from the border of zone 0, at least 0.3m above the floor, and protected by a 30mA residual current device or by electrical separation with the safety isolating transformer outside the zones. In zone 2, equipment, socket-outlets, switches and accessories are permitted but must be protected by electrical separation, by SELV, or by a 30mA RCD.

Lighting is the item that catches people out during a refurbishment. In zones 0 and 1 only protection by SELV is permitted, with a nominal voltage not exceeding 12V a.c. rms or 30V ripple-free d.c. in zone 0 and not exceeding 25V a.c. rms or 60V ripple-free d.c. in zone 1, the SELV source itself installed outside zones 0, 1 and 2. In zone 2, luminaires must be protected by SELV, by a 30mA RCD or by electrical separation. Equipment must also reach a minimum degree of protection to BS EN 60529: IPX8 in zone 0, IPX4 in zone 1 or IPX5 where water jets are likely to be used for cleaning, and IPX2 indoors or IPX4 outdoors in zone 2, again IPX5 where jetting is likely.

Bonding, earthing and why a pool refit often changes the earthing arrangement

Supplementary equipotential bonding is required between all extraneous-conductive-parts and the protective conductors of all exposed-conductive-parts in zones 0, 1 and 2, whether or not they are simultaneously accessible. That catches the metalwork a renovation tends to add: handrails, ladders, grilles, metal covers, pipework and the frames of new plant. Any metallic sheath or metallic covering of a wiring system, including conduit, whether surface-run or buried in walls or floors at a depth not exceeding 50mm, must also be connected to that bonding. There is no general requirement to install a metal grid in a solid floor, but where one exists it must be bonded in.

Earthing is the other conversation, and it is the one most likely to add cost. Most British homes are supplied using protective multiple earthing, permitted under the Electricity Safety, Quality and Continuity Regulations 2002 as amended and described in BS 7671 as TN-C-S. The IET points out that under certain external fault conditions a potential can develop between parts connected to the PME earth terminal and the general mass of earth, and that this matters most where body contact resistance is low and contact with true earth is good, which describes a swimmer exactly. A distributor may therefore decide not to provide a PME earthing terminal for an installation such as a swimming pool; where one is provided, BS 7671 does not forbid its use but recommends an earth mat or electrode of suitably low resistance, for example 20 ohms or less, connected to the equipotential bonding.

None of this is homeowner work, and it is not the pool fitter's work either unless they employ an electrician. The practical step at quotation stage is to ask who is designing the electrical installation, what earthing arrangement they intend to use, and whether the existing bonding will be tested and extended or simply reconnected. A renovation that reuses twenty-year-old bonding without testing it is not a renovation of the electrics.

When a British pool is telling you it needs renovating rather than repairing

  • Water loss that persists after the obvious causes are excluded, and that is worse when the circulation is running than when it is off.
  • A liner that has gone brittle or has stretched at the corners, so that patches no longer hold for a season.
  • Rendered or painted finishes that blister, chalk or delaminate in more than one area rather than in a single patch.
  • Rust staining or movement at the coping, which usually means water has been getting behind the edge detail for years.
  • Plant that cannot be repaired because the pump, controller or heater is no longer supported and parts have to be improvised.
  • Poor circulation you can see: dead corners that always go green first, and a surface skimmer that never quite clears the far end.
  • An electrical installation with extension leads, unbonded metalwork, or fittings clearly never intended for a pool environment.

How a renovation runs, and when the pool sits empty

The order is largely fixed by the water. The pool is drained, which in Britain needs planning in its own right because a full drain down is a large discharge and it has to go somewhere lawful. The basin is then stripped, inspected and dried, and that inspection is the point where the price can move: what looked like a reline can turn into render repair once the old liner is off. Structural and waterproofing work follows, then the finish, then the circulation and plant, then commissioning and the refill.

An empty pool is not a stable pool, and in a wet British winter it is less stable still. Groundwater pressure against an empty shell is a real risk on some sites, which is why a competent contractor asks about the water table and may fit or check a hydrostatic relief valve before leaving a pool dry. It is also why renovations are usually programmed for spring and early summer rather than left open across the winter.

Expect commissioning to take longer than the refill. A new finish needs its curing regime followed, a new circulation system needs balancing, and the water needs bringing into balance before anyone swims. A contractor who hands back a full pool on the day it is filled has skipped the part that determines how the surface lasts.

Finishes used on British pools, and what each one asks of you

  • Reinforced membrane, welded on site: forgiving of slight movement, repairable, and the usual choice for renovating an older concrete pool.
  • Preformed liners: cheaper and quicker, with a life that depends heavily on water chemistry and on how much sunlight the pool gets.
  • Tiling: the longest-lived and the least forgiving, because it needs a sound, stable substrate and good movement joints.
  • Rendered and painted finishes: repairable in patches, but they repaint on a cycle rather than lasting indefinitely.
  • Mosaic and glass finishes: a cost and craft decision more than a technical one, with the same substrate demands as tiling.
  • Whatever the finish, the substrate and the movement joints decide the outcome, which is why a survey before quoting is worth more than a sample board.

What moves the price of a pool renovation, and how LokalMatch fits in

The variables here are different from those on a new build. What matters is how much of the old pool has to come out before anything new goes in, whether the structure is sound or needs repair once it is exposed, the finish chosen and the substrate it has to go onto, how far the circulation and plant are being rebuilt rather than reused, how much new electrical work falls inside the pool zones and therefore attracts the Section 702 requirements, and whether access allows plant and materials to reach the pool without hand-balling everything down a garden. Ground conditions and the water table can also add work that nobody could see at survey stage.

LokalMatch exists to put you in front of the people who do this work. Describe the pool, its age and construction, and what you want changed, once, with your postcode, and renovation firms working in your area will contact you directly. Using it costs homeowners nothing, and the firms pay for the enquiries they receive. LokalMatch does not do renovation work, plays no part in pricing, and does not vet, rank or recommend the businesses that reply, so comparing specifications and confirming who is doing the electrical design remains your job.

Pool Renovation: frequently asked questions

What is a zone 1 or zone 2 around a swimming pool?

They are the areas around the basin that Section 702 of BS 7671 treats as carrying a raised risk of electric shock, because a wet, partially clothed body has reduced resistance and good contact with earth. The 17th edition replaced the earlier zones A, B and C with zones 0, 1 and 2 while keeping the same dimensions, and for a swimming pool zones 1 and 2 may be limited by fixed partitions of at least 2.5m in height. What may be installed, and how it must be protected, changes from zone to zone, which is why pool electrical work is specialist work.

Can I have a socket beside my pool?

In zone 2, yes, provided it is protected by electrical separation, by SELV or by a 30mA RCD. In zone 1, only where it is not possible to place it outside zone 1, and then it must be more than 1.25m horizontally from the border of zone 0, at least 0.3m above the floor, and protected by a 30mA RCD or by electrical separation with the safety isolating transformer outside the zones. Zones 0 and 1 otherwise exclude switchgear, controlgear, accessories and junction boxes, apart from SELV junction boxes in zone 1.

Why does my electrician want to change the earthing for the pool?

Because most British supplies use protective multiple earthing, and the IET notes that under certain external fault conditions a potential can develop between the PME earth terminal and the general mass of earth. That matters most where body contact resistance is low and contact with true earth is good, which is the condition of anyone in a pool. A distributor may decline to provide a PME earthing terminal for a pool installation, and where one is provided BS 7671 recommends an earth mat or electrode of suitably low resistance, for example 20 ohms or less, connected to the equipotential bonding.

What IP rating do pool lights and equipment need?

Section 702 sets minimum degrees of protection to BS EN 60529 by zone: IPX8 in zone 0, IPX4 in zone 1 and IPX5 there where water jets are likely to be used for cleaning, and in zone 2 IPX2 for indoor locations or IPX4 outdoors, again IPX5 where jetting is likely. Lighting has extra restrictions: only SELV is permitted in zones 0 and 1, at a nominal voltage not exceeding 12V a.c. rms or 30V ripple-free d.c. in zone 0 and 25V a.c. rms or 60V ripple-free d.c. in zone 1, with the source installed outside the zones.

Which version of the Wiring Regulations should my certificate refer to?

Ask, because the standard is in transition. The IET states that Amendment 4:2026 is the current published amendment of BS 7671:2018, and that Amendment 3:2024 remains a valid standard until 15 October 2026, with installers free to work to either edition during that period. It is a fair question to put to a contractor quoting work now, and a professional one to answer.

Is it safe to leave a pool empty over a British winter during a renovation?

It depends on the site, and it should be a considered decision rather than a scheduling accident. An empty shell has no water inside to resist groundwater pressure from outside, and British winters put a lot of water into the ground. A contractor should ask about the water table, check any hydrostatic relief valve before leaving a pool dry, and ideally programme the work so the basin is not open through the wettest months.

Sources

  1. IET Wiring Matters: Section 702, swimming pools and other basins (zones, SELV, RCDs, IP ratings, bonding and PME)
  2. IET Wiring Matters, July 2021: hot tubs (Section 702 applied outdoors, IPX4, 30mA RCDs)
  3. IET: BS 7671:2018 amendments and the validity of Amendment 3:2024 until 15 October 2026
  4. BSI: BS EN 16582-2:2015, domestic swimming pools, inground pools

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of pool renovation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type and size of pool or hot tub
  • Excavation and site access
  • Pumps, filters, heaters and covers
  • Decking, fencing and landscaping around it
  • Electrical and gas connections
  • Condition of existing equipment for repairs

How to compare pool contractors before you hire

  • Choose a company that works on your type of pool or hot tub, whether it's in-ground, above-ground or a spa.
  • For a new pool, ask who handles the permit, the fencing requirements and the electrical and gas connections.
  • Make sure electrical and gas work for heaters, pumps and hot tubs is done by licensed trades.
  • Get a written quote that covers excavation, backfill, equipment, decking and site restoration.
  • For openings, closings and maintenance, ask exactly what each visit includes.

Questions to ask pool contractors before you hire

  • Who will get the permit, and what fencing or gate rules will I need to meet?
  • Who will do the electrical and gas hookups, and are they licensed?
  • What equipment do you recommend, and why?
  • What does the warranty cover for the pool shell or liner, the equipment and your installation?
  • How will you get equipment into my yard, and how will you restore the lawn afterwards?
  • What is included in an opening, closing or maintenance visit?

When to call a pro for pool renovation

  • Water level dropping faster than usual, which may mean a leak
  • A pump, heater or hot tub that trips the breaker: keep people out of the water and call a qualified technician.
  • Cloudy or green water that doesn't clear with regular care

Pool renovation permits and local rules

Some pool renovation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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