Walkways
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A walkway is the route people actually take: from the front gate or the kerb to the door, down the side of the house past the meter box and the bins, out to the shed, the clothesline or the back gate. Australian paths are built in poured and exposed aggregate concrete, segmental pavers, natural stone, and compacted decomposed granite or gravel, and most of them are laid by the same landscaping and concreting contractors who do the patios and driveways.
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A path looks like the simplest hard surface on the property and behaves like the most demanding one. It is narrow, so a small settlement shows up as an obvious trip hazard rather than a gentle dip. It usually runs alongside the house, which puts it exactly where the ground is supposed to be falling away from the building. And the side passage, the one nobody looks at, is typically the shadiest, dampest, least drained strip on the block.
Two things decide whether a walkway stays safe. The first is levels: the fall across the path, the fall away from the wall, and the absence of any lip at a joint or a threshold. The second is drainage, both the surface water running off the path and the subsurface water moving through the ground beside it, which the National Construction Code treats as a designed system with a required grade and a discharge point rather than a pipe dropped in a trench.
The paths on an Australian block and what each one has to do
- The front path from the street or driveway to the entry, which is the one used in the dark, in the rain and by visitors who do not know the site.
- The side access path past the meter box, the tap and the bins, usually narrow, shaded and the most frequent source of drainage complaints.
- The path to the clothesline, the shed or the bin store, which has to take a loaded basket or a wheeled bin rather than just a pedestrian.
- Garden and connecting paths, free to be informal, provided they are not the main route used at night.
- Stepping stones set into lawn or garden bed, which suit light use but move independently and are a poor choice on a primary route.
- Paths around a pool surround, where the surface has to stay usable with wet feet and sits inside the pool barrier rules.
- Ramped or step-free access to an entry, which is a levels and gradient problem rather than a surfacing one.
- The crossing over the verge to the kerb, which is on public land and is not yours to build or alter without council approval.
Walkway surfaces and how each behaves underfoot
- Plain concrete, usually given a broom or brushed finish across the direction of travel so it keeps its grip when wet.
- Exposed aggregate concrete, popular here for paths and pool surrounds because the exposed stone gives texture, and named in the NSW general concreting licence category.
- Segmental concrete pavers, laid on a screeded bedding layer with edge restraints, and liftable one at a time when something settles.
- Clay and brick pavers, hard-wearing and colourfast, commonly used where the path has to match older brickwork.
- Natural stone and cut slabs, handsome and heavy, needing the best-prepared base of any surface because the pieces vary in thickness.
- Decomposed granite and compacted gravel, cheap and free-draining for garden paths, but they migrate, wash in storms and are awkward for a wheeled bin.
- Permeable paving, used where a path has to stop adding run-off rather than simply shedding it.
- Stepping stones and timber sleepers, which suit informal garden routes and should not carry the main path used after dark.
Falls away from the house, and the subsoil drainage beside a path
A path laid against a house sits in the one place the code is specific about. The ABCB Housing Provisions require the finished ground next to a building to be graded to give a slope away from it, and they put numbers on it: a slope of not less than 25 millimetres over the first 1 metre from the building in low rainfall intensity areas with reasonably impermeable surfaces, and 50 millimetres over the first 1 metre from the building in any other case. A side path poured flat, or falling gently back towards the wall because that was the easier level to work to, works against that requirement every time it rains.
Subsurface water is the other half, and it is the half that gets skipped. The Housing Provisions treat a subsoil drain as a designed system: where it is installed it must be graded with a uniform fall of not less than 1 in 300, must discharge into an external silt pit or sump with the level of discharge into an impervious drainage line not less than 50 millimetres below the invert level of the inlet, and must have provision for cleaning and maintenance. A drain laid without fall, or one that discharges nowhere, is decoration. In a damp side passage, a properly graded subsoil drain with a real outlet is often the difference between a path that stays dry and one that grows moss every winter.
The third thing to get right is the levels where the path meets everything else. Ask how the path will meet the door threshold, the bottom step, the driveway and the paving, because a lip at any of those joints is the classic trip hazard, and it is far cheaper to set it correctly than to grind it out later. Where the path runs alongside the house, ask how it relates to the exposed slab edge, since a path built up over that edge removes a separation the building depends on.
Approval for paths, and the part of the path on public land
A path within your own boundary is usually the least contentious hard surface on the block, and in New South Wales it falls under the same exempt development category as driveways and paving, which sets no maximum area or width. What it does set are conditions: the work must not be on land in a foreshore area, an environmentally sensitive area, a heritage conservation area or a draft heritage conservation area, must not be on or in a heritage item or draft heritage item, and must be constructed so any surface water or run-off is disposed of by a drainage system connected to the existing stormwater drainage system.
That stormwater condition is the one homeowners underestimate for a path. A narrow strip of paving does not feel like a drainage event, but several of them plus a patio and a driveway add up, and a path is often the element that redirects water — along a side passage, around a corner and into a low spot that never used to collect anything. If the design changes where water runs, say so when you get quotes.
The verge is a different matter. The Planning Portal is explicit that any structure on or over public land or roads must have approval specifically from the local council or Transport for NSW. The strip between your front boundary and the kerb is public land, so a path, a step or a crossing built across it is not covered by anything you are allowed to do inside your fence. Councils run their own approval schemes and technical standards for that section, so ask yours before the work is scheduled rather than after the concrete is ordered.
Why paths become trip hazards and slip hazards
- A lip at the joint where the path meets a step, a threshold, the driveway or the patio, which is the single most common trip hazard on a property.
- A settled panel or a rocking paver, obvious on a narrow path in a way the same movement would not be across a wide slab.
- Water ponding along a side passage because the path was laid flat and there is nowhere for the water to leave.
- Moss, lichen and algae in a shaded side passage, which turn a perfectly sound surface slippery in the wet months.
- Tree and shrub roots lifting individual units, usually the first visible sign of a root running under the path.
- A smooth, polished or heavily sealed finish that grips well when dry and poorly when wet, especially on a slope or around a pool.
- A path built up against the wall over successive resurfacings, burying the exposed slab edge and the fall away from the building.
- Gravel and decomposed granite washed out of the path and across the driveway after every storm, which means there is no edge or no fall.
Keeping a walkway safe through the year
- Walk the paths after heavy rain and note where water sits, since a puddle marks the low spot that will settle further.
- Reset a lifted or rocking unit as soon as it appears, rather than waiting until the surrounding units have moved too.
- Clean moss and algae off shaded paths before the wet months rather than after someone slips.
- Check the subsoil drain outlet and any silt pit actually run, and keep them clear of soil, mulch and leaf litter.
- Keep garden beds, mulch and turf from creeping over the edge of the path, which both narrows it and blocks the fall.
- Cut back plantings that overhang the path or drip onto it, particularly along a narrow side passage.
- Grind or repair a lip as soon as one develops at a joint, threshold or step.
- Keep the route to the door lit, since most of the hazards on this list are only hazards when they cannot be seen.
Licences for path work, the written scope, and finding contractors on LokalMatch
Path work is licensed in the same categories as the rest of the hardscaping. In New South Wales the structural landscaping category names fencing, driveways, paths and other paving of any material among its examples, and the general concreting category covers concrete laying or placement, formwork, reinforcement fixing and finishes including exposed aggregate work or pebblecreting, along with concrete repairing and resurfacing; both require a contractor licence above the value threshold under the Home Building Act 1989. In Queensland, the structural landscaping trade class covers preparing the site and laying paving or concrete not intended to carry vehicular traffic, which is precisely what a garden path is, with a QBCC licence required for building work above the commission's threshold.
Put the levels in the scope, because they are what you will be living with. Record the width, the falls across and along the path, how it meets the threshold, the steps and the driveway, what finish and texture you are getting, whether any subsoil drainage is included and where it discharges, and who is obtaining any council approval for work on the verge. The Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply regardless of the size of the job: acceptable care and skill, fitness for any stated purpose, and supply within a reasonable time where none is agreed. If the path has to be usable with a walker or a wheeled bin, or has to stay grippy around a pool, state that purpose in writing so it is stated rather than assumed.
LokalMatch is where the search begins. You describe the walkway once, with its length and width, where it runs, what it has to connect to, the surface you have in mind and whether any of it crosses the verge, and matched local paving, concreting and landscaping contractors get in touch with you directly. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive, and describing a job costs a homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not build paths, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so checking licences, insurance and council approvals stays with you.
Walkways: frequently asked questions
Do I need approval to build a garden path?
Inside your boundary, often not. In New South Wales paths fall under the same exempt development category as driveways and paving, which sets no maximum area or width but does impose conditions: the work must be off heritage items, heritage and draft heritage conservation areas, foreshore areas and environmentally sensitive land, and run-off must be disposed of by a drainage system connected to the existing stormwater system. The verge is different, and needs council approval.
How much fall should a path beside the house have?
Away from the building, and by a measured amount. The ABCB Housing Provisions require the ground next to the building to be graded to give a slope of not less than 25 millimetres over the first 1 metre from the building in low rainfall intensity areas with reasonably impermeable surfaces, and 50 millimetres over the first 1 metre in any other case. A side path poured dead flat will not achieve that, and one falling back towards the wall works against it.
My side passage is always damp and slippery. What actually fixes it?
Usually drainage rather than cleaning. If water has nowhere to go, the surface stays wet long enough for moss and algae to establish, and scrubbing it only resets the clock. The Housing Provisions treat a subsoil drain as a designed system, graded with a uniform fall of not less than 1 in 300 and discharging into an external silt pit or sump with provision for cleaning and maintenance. Getting the falls and an actual outlet right is the durable fix.
Can I build a path across the verge to the kerb?
Not on your own initiative. The NSW Planning Portal states that any structure on or over public land or roads must have approval specifically from the local council or Transport for NSW, and the strip between your front boundary and the kerb is public land. Councils operate their own approval schemes and technical standards for that section, so ask yours before the work is booked.
Which walkway surface is least slippery when wet?
Texture matters more than material. A broom or brushed concrete finish run across the direction of travel, exposed aggregate, and tumbled or textured pavers all keep grip when wet, while polished, very smooth or heavily sealed surfaces lose it. Ask the contractor what finish and texture is being supplied, and be specific if the path is on a slope, in shade or beside a pool where it will be walked on with wet feet.
Is a settled paver worth fixing straight away?
Yes, and it is cheapest at that point. A path is narrow, so a small settlement becomes a trip hazard sooner than the same movement would across a wide area, and once one unit moves the ones around it lose their support and follow. Lifting and rebedding a single paver is a small job; relaying a whole section after a season of movement is not.
Sources
- NSW Planning Portal: Driveways, pathways and paving as exempt development
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 3.3 Drainage, surface and subsoil
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 4.2 Footings, slabs and associated elements
- NSW Government: Structural landscaping work licence, paths and paving
- NSW Government: General concreting work licence and finishes
- QBCC: Structural landscaping (trade) licence, paving not for vehicular traffic
- NSW Government: Home building contracts and deposits
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees when you buy services
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of walkway
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and thickness of the area
- Removal of the old surface
- Excavation and base preparation
- Finish, colour or pattern
- Access for equipment and trucks
- Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges
How to compare walkway contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
- Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
- Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
- Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
- Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.
Questions to ask walkway contractors before you hire
- How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
- Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
- How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
- What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?
When to call a pro for walkway
- Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
- Water pooling against the foundation after rain
- Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways
Walkway permits and local rules
Some walkway work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
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