Underpinning
Underpinning near you
Underpinning adds new permanent support beneath a footing that already exists, taking the load down to ground that can carry it. It is the heaviest answer available to a movement problem, and it is bought for two quite different reasons. One is that your own building has settled onto material that will not hold it. The other is that somebody is about to excavate beside it — for a basement garage, a new dwelling on the boundary, or a pool — and the footing needs support before the ground beside it is taken away.
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That second reason is why underpinning is a neighbour question as much as an engineering one. In Victoria, the City of Boroondara explains that Regulation 111 of the Building Regulations 2018 requires that neighbouring property is not affected or damaged by your work when you build or excavate near a boundary, that your building surveyor determines whether a protection works notice must be served on adjoining property owners under section 84 of the Building Act 1993, and that serving it on your neighbours is your responsibility rather than the surveyor's.
The judgement that matters most, though, comes before any of that. Underpinning is permanent, and a great deal of Australian footing movement is not: it is seasonal, driven by soil moisture, and it comes back the other way when the weather does. Pinning one part of a house that is still moving elsewhere creates a hard point and can concentrate damage rather than end it. The question to settle first is whether what you are seeing is settlement that has finished, movement that is still going, or a cycle.
How underpinning is actually built
- Mass concrete underpinning excavates short sections beneath the existing footing in a planned sequence and fills each one with concrete before the next is opened.
- Beam and base underpinning casts a reinforced concrete beam along or across the footing and transfers its load to bases or piers placed at intervals.
- Bored or cast in situ piers drill down to competent material and are linked to the existing footing by brackets or a needle beam.
- Screw piles are wound into the ground by machine, produce little spoil and generate a torque reading for each pile, which is a useful record of what each one found.
- Driven or jacked piles are pushed down using the building's own weight as reaction, and suit tight sites where a drilling rig will not fit.
- Resin injection re-levels a slab by expanding polymer in the soil beneath it and is often discussed alongside underpinning, but it stabilises and lifts rather than adding structural support beneath a footing.
When underpinning is the wrong answer
The failure mode people rarely hear about is underpinning that works exactly as designed and still leaves the house cracked. If a footing is pinned down to firm material while the rest of the building continues to rise and fall with soil moisture, the pinned section becomes the one part that will not move, and the difference between it and everything else has to go somewhere. It goes into the brickwork at the junction.
That is why a responsible proposal starts with a period of observation rather than a quote. Crack widths and floor levels measured on at least two occasions separated by a change in weather will usually distinguish a building that has settled and stopped from one that is still going, and a building that is cycling from one that is sinking. It is slow, unsatisfying, and considerably cheaper than the wrong piles.
Correcting the cause also comes first. Where water is the driver — a downpipe discharging at the footing, a leaking drain, a change of ground level trapping moisture against one side — that has to be dealt with before support is added, because a structure is not stabilised while the thing moving it is still running. Any contractor willing to pin without asking where the water goes is not solving your problem.
Protection work, and the notice you have to serve
Victoria puts underpinning squarely in the protection work regime. The City of Boroondara sets out the mechanism: Regulation 111 of the Building Regulations 2018 requires that neighbouring property is not affected or damaged by your work when you build or excavate near a boundary, and your building surveyor determines whether a protection works notice is required to be served on adjoining property owners. The notice is served under section 84 of the Building Act 1993, and section 246 of the same Act deals with false statements, which is a reminder that what you put on the form is a legal statement rather than a courtesy.
Practically, this changes the shape of the project. You need the adjoining owner's details, the surveyor's determination, and a documented description of what is proposed and how the neighbouring building will be protected, and that sequence has to complete before the work can proceed. It is the single most common reason an underpinning project starts later than the owner expected.
Other states and territories handle excavation near a boundary through their own building legislation, and the titles and forms do not match Victoria's. The obligation that is constant is the substantive one: if your work could undermine the building next door, you are responsible for it not doing so. Ask your building surveyor or certifier, in writing, which notice applies to your address.
The permit, and the soil report behind it
Underpinning is approved as structural work rather than as maintenance. The City of Monash states that underpinning, re-stumping or otherwise altering the footing of a building is considered a structural alteration and requires a building permit, and that you will need a soil report to successfully apply for one.
The soil report is not a formality. It is the document that tells the designer what is under the footing, how deep competent material actually sits, and therefore which of the underpinning methods will work on your block. An underpinning design produced without one is a guess dressed as engineering, and the depth assumed in the quote is the number most likely to change once the first excavation is open.
Approvals, practitioner registration and licence classes are set by each state and territory, and this is work where the class matters rather than the general trade. Ask which registration covers underpinning where you live, and verify it on the regulator's own public register before signing anything.
The sequence an underpinning job follows
- Investigation: level survey, crack monitoring over time, drainage and moisture checks, and a soil report to establish what is under the footing.
- Design by an engineer, naming the method, the depth, the spacing and the sequence in which sections may be opened.
- Approval and any protection work notice, served on adjoining owners where your state requires it and completed before work starts.
- Site setup: access for spoil, protection of services, and confirmation of where every underground pipe and cable runs before a machine turns.
- Underpinning in the designed sequence, never as a continuous trench, with each section completed and cured before the neighbouring one is opened.
- Inspection and sign-off at the stages the approval requires, with records of what each pier or pile actually found.
- Only then the cosmetic repairs — cracks, doors, cornices — which are pointless before the structure has stopped moving.
Why the excavation is the dangerous part
Underpinning deliberately removes support from beneath a loaded footing and then puts better support back. Between those two moments the building is relying on the soil arching over a hole, which is why the sequence in the engineer's design is not a suggestion. Opening too many sections, or opening adjacent sections at once, is how underpinning causes the damage it was hired to prevent.
The excavations themselves are a work health and safety matter. They are deep, narrow, next to a structure and sometimes next to a boundary, and the people working in them need the trench support, the access and the exclusion zones that excavation work requires in your state. A homeowner's part in this is simple: stay out of the excavation, keep children and pets away from it entirely, and do not agree to a variation that speeds the job up by opening more of it at once.
Services are the other hazard. Sewer and stormwater drains, water services, gas and electrical mains all run at the depths underpinning works in, and older properties often have them where no plan shows. Locating them before excavation is part of the job, not an add-on.
What you should hold when the job is finished
- The engineer's design and any certification that the work was carried out in accordance with it.
- A record for each pier or pile: depth reached, what material it founded on, and for screw piles the torque achieved.
- The building approval and every inspection record the approval called for.
- Any protection work documentation served on and returned from adjoining owners, kept with the title papers.
- The written warranty, with its term stated and its exclusions read — particularly any exclusion for movement outside the underpinned section.
- Level and crack measurements taken after completion, which become the baseline for judging whether anything moves afterwards.
Underpinning: frequently asked questions
Does my neighbour have to be told before my house is underpinned?
In Victoria, very likely. The City of Boroondara explains that Regulation 111 of the Building Regulations 2018 requires neighbouring property not to be affected or damaged by your work when building or excavating near a boundary, that your building surveyor determines whether a protection works notice has to be served on adjoining owners, and that it is served under section 84 of the Building Act 1993 — with responsibility for serving it on your neighbours resting with you. Other states deal with excavation near a boundary under their own legislation, so ask your surveyor or certifier which notice applies at your address.
Do I need a building permit to underpin?
In Victoria the City of Monash states that underpinning or otherwise altering the footing of a building is a structural alteration requiring a building permit, and that a soil report is needed to apply successfully. Every state and territory regulates structural alteration in some form, issued by a council, a private certifier or a registered building surveyor. Treat any quote that does not mention approval or a soil report as incomplete rather than competitive.
How do I know whether my house needs underpinning at all?
By establishing whether it is still moving, and in which direction. Settlement that has finished does not need new support; it needs repair. Seasonal movement driven by soil moisture is a cycle, and pinning part of a house that cycles can make the damage worse by creating a fixed point beside a moving one. The evidence is crack widths and floor levels measured on separate occasions with different weather in between, plus checks on drains and downpipes. Anyone offering to underpin after a single visit has not done that work.
What is a soil report and why does the underpinning design depend on it?
It is an investigation of what is actually beneath your footing and how deep competent material sits. The City of Monash notes you will need one to apply successfully for a building permit for this work. It matters commercially as well as technically: depth is the biggest single driver of what underpinning involves, so a design produced without a soil report carries an assumed depth that can change the moment the first excavation is open.
Why is underpinning done in short sections instead of one long trench?
Because the building has to keep standing while the support beneath it is temporarily gone. Each section removes a small part of the bearing under a loaded footing and replaces it with something better, and the soil either side arches over the gap in the meantime. The engineer's sequence sets how many sections may be open and how far apart, and departing from it is the classic way an underpinning job causes structural damage. If a contractor proposes to speed the work up by opening more at once, that is a conversation for the engineer, not for the site.
Will underpinning stop the cracks coming back?
Only if the cause has been dealt with and the movement was the kind underpinning addresses. Where water is driving the ground — a downpipe discharging beside the footing, a leaking drain, ground levels trapping moisture against a wall — that has to be corrected first, because support added while the driver is still running does not settle anything. Leave the cosmetic crack repairs until after the structure has demonstrably stopped moving, and keep the post-completion level and crack measurements so you can tell.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of underpinning
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Interior or exterior approach
- Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
- Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
- Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
- Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
- Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
- Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed
How to compare underpinning contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
- Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
- For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
- For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
- Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.
Questions to ask underpinning contractors before you hire
- Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
- Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
- Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
- How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
- If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?
When to call a pro for underpinning
- Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
- Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
- Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
- Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.
Underpinning permits and local rules
Some underpinning work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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