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Paving

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Paving is the hard-surface layer of an Australian block: the driveway and its crossing out to the kerb, the parking pad beside the shed, the path to the front door, the apron around a water tank, the slab under a clothesline. Contractors lay it in asphalt, plain and decorative concrete, segmental pavers, permeable systems and compacted rubble, and on most jobs the same crew handles the excavation, the base, the edge restraints and the drainage that goes with it.

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What decides whether paving lasts here is rarely the surface you chose. It is the reactive clay or the coastal sand underneath it, whether the base was compacted in thin layers or tipped in one lift, and where the water goes once the ground can no longer soak it up. Paving converts an absorbent surface into one that sheds everything that lands on it, which is why the National Construction Code treats water collected or concentrated by sitework as something to be disposed of deliberately rather than left to find its own way.

The third thing to settle early is the approval pathway, because it governs your start date more than the material does. New South Wales, like the other states, runs a graded system: some paving is exempt development and needs no approval at all provided every single condition is met, larger work can be fast-tracked through a complying development certificate, and anything outside both goes to the council as a development application.

Exempt development, complying development or a development application for paving

Australian planning law does not answer a single yes-or-no question about approval. The NSW Planning Portal describes exempt development as the pathway for many minor renovations and low impact building works that need no planning or construction approval, on condition that the proposed works meet all of the development standards identified in the State Policy, and that the works are structurally adequate and installed in accordance with manufacturer's specifications that comply with the Building Code of Australia. Miss one standard and the exemption falls away entirely, so this is a checklist rather than a judgement call.

For driveways, pathways and paving the state's criteria are striking for what they leave out: no maximum area, no maximum width, no height cap. Size is simply not how this category is controlled. What governs it instead is a short list of qualifying conditions, every one of which has to be satisfied at once — the land the paving sits on, with heritage items, heritage and draft heritage conservation areas, foreshore areas and environmentally sensitive land all ruled out; a mandatory connection, so that run-off is disposed of by a drainage system joined to the existing stormwater drainage system; and a construction standard, AS/NZS 2890.1:2004 for off-street car parking. A large paved area can therefore be exempt while a small one fails, purely on where it sits and where its water goes.

Where the work is bigger than the exempt criteria allow, complying development is the middle pathway. The Planning Portal describes it as a fast-tracked application process that combines planning and construction approval for straightforward residential, commercial and industrial development, determined by a council or an accredited certifier without a full development application where the proposal meets specific development standards, with approvals able to be issued in as little as 20 days. It generally covers larger building works than exempt development, which is why sign-off by a certifying authority is required. Beyond that sits the ordinary development application. Confirm the version of these pathways that applies in your own state and council before you settle a layout.

Paving surfaces used on Australian blocks

  • Asphalt, laid and rolled hot over a prepared base, quick to cover a long rural driveway and the usual choice where the area is large and the finish is secondary.
  • Plain concrete, a rigid slab whose joint layout decides where it will crack, and whose surface finish decides how it behaves when wet.
  • Decorative concrete such as exposed aggregate, stencilled, stamped or coloured work, all of which are named in the NSW general concreting licence category.
  • Segmental and brick pavers, individually liftable, which is what makes a settled area repairable without cutting out a slab.
  • Natural stone and cut slabs, chosen for appearance and generally needing the flattest, best-prepared bedding of anything on this list.
  • Permeable paving with open, stone-filled joints over a free-draining reservoir, used where run-off has to be reduced rather than piped away.
  • Gravel and compacted rubble on acreage, maintained by grading and topping up rather than by patching.
  • Edge restraints and kerbing, which are not a surface at all but are what stops a segmental pavement from creeping sideways and losing its joints.

Subgrade, compacted base and the falls that carry storm water off the paving

Everything that matters in a paving job is buried within a day or two of it starting, so the questions worth asking are asked before the surface arrives. The first is about the ground. The ABCB Housing Provisions treat earthworks as a designed operation rather than a bulldozer decision: fill placed as an un-retained embankment must be placed within the allotment, at a gradient complying with the standard's table, placed and mechanically compacted in layers not more than 150 millimetres, and not more than 2 metres in height from the natural ground level at any point. An un-retained site cut must likewise stay within the allotment, sit outside the zone of influence of any existing structure, and go no deeper than 2 metres from natural ground level.

The table behind those rules is the part that explains why two neighbouring jobs need different bases. It sets the slope an embankment will hold by soil type, and the classes are not interchangeable: stable rock stands far steeper than sand, firm clay steeper than soft clay, and soft clay is listed as not suitable for compacted fill embankments at all. Paving laid over ground that was pushed into place years ago and never compacted in layers is the single most common reason a new surface settles unevenly within a couple of seasons.

The second question is where the water goes. Under the National Construction Code's performance requirements for housing, surface water resulting from a storm having an annual exceedance probability of 5 per cent, and which is collected or concentrated by a building or sitework, must be disposed of in a way that avoids the likelihood of damage or nuisance to any other property; and surface water resulting from a storm having an annual exceedance probability of 1 per cent must not enter the building. New paving is sitework that collects and concentrates water by definition. Ask where the falls run, what the paving discharges into, and how that connects to the existing stormwater system, because the exempt development criteria require exactly that connection.

How Australian paving fails, and what each failure is telling you

  • A section that has dropped relative to its neighbours, which points at uncompacted fill, a backfilled service trench or fines washed out of the base.
  • Cracks that open through the dry months and close after rain, which is reactive clay moving beneath the surface rather than a fault in the surface itself.
  • Water ponding on the paving after every storm, meaning the falls were set to the eye rather than to a level.
  • Run-off arriving at the house, the garage door or a neighbour's boundary, which is a drainage design problem and potentially a compliance one.
  • Pavers creeping apart in wheel tracks or along an edge, almost always a missing or failed edge restraint.
  • Permeable paving that no longer drains, because sand, grit and organic matter have sealed the joints that were doing the work.
  • Broken edges along an asphalt or concrete pavement where there is nothing supporting the slab from the side and the soil has eroded away.
  • Paving built up hard against the house so that it buries the exposed slab edge and blocks the fall the building relies on.

Keeping paving and its drainage working

  • Walk the paving during or straight after heavy rain at least once a year and watch where water actually runs, rather than where you assume it runs.
  • Keep grated drains, silt pits and outlets clear, since a silted pit backs water up onto the surface it was installed to protect.
  • Top up jointing sand in segmental paving before the joints open far enough to let units move.
  • Sweep and clean permeable paving on a schedule, and keep traction grit, soil and mulch off it, because clogged joints turn a permeable pavement into an ordinary one.
  • Reseal or refill dormant cracks so water stays out of the base, which is where cracks do their real damage.
  • Keep garden beds, mulch and turf from building up against the house along the edge of the paving.
  • Reset a lifted or rocking paver as soon as it appears, while it is still one unit rather than a spreading area.
  • Keep downpipes discharging into the stormwater system rather than onto the paved surface.

Scheduling paving around an inverted Australian year

The seasons run the other way here, so winter falls in June, July and August and summer in December, January and February. That reverses the usual scheduling advice imported from the northern hemisphere. Nothing is waiting for a thaw, and nothing is being built to get below a frost line. What you are scheduling around instead is soil moisture, heat and storms.

Compaction is the reason moisture matters. A base can be too wet to compact properly just as easily as it can be too dry, and in the southern states the wettest, softest ground arrives in the middle of the calendar year. Excavating and compacting a saturated yard in July means deeper wheel ruts, mud tracked through the house and a crew working shorter days. Autumn and spring usually give the best combination of workable ground and a settled stretch of weather afterwards.

In the tropical north the year divides into a wet season and a dry season rather than four seasons, and substantial paving is realistically booked in the dry, when machinery can reach the site and a half-finished base will not be washed out overnight. Wherever you are, ask what happens if heavy rain arrives within hours of the surface going down, and get the answer before the trucks are booked rather than on the day.

Paving licences, what to put in the contract, and how LokalMatch fits in

Licensing is by state, and for paving it splits along an unexpected line. In New South Wales the structural landscaping category covers the construction of external landscape features and non-habitable structures, and its examples expressly include fencing, driveways, paths and other paving of any material, while the general concreting category covers concrete laying or placement, formwork, reinforcement fixing, concrete stencilling, stamped pattern concreting, exposed aggregate work or pebblecreting, concrete repairing and concrete resurfacing, together with the excavation necessary before the concrete goes in. General concreting expressly excludes major site preparation to shore excavations, or work where the structural stability of a neighbouring site or structure might be compromised. Both require a contractor licence above the value threshold set under the Home Building Act 1989.

Queensland draws the line by traffic. The QBCC concreting class covers concreting including installing formwork, reinforcement and concrete, while the structural landscaping trade class covers preparing the site and laying paving or concrete not intended to carry vehicular traffic for landscaping. A garden path and a driveway can therefore sit in different licence classes on the same property, and a QBCC licence is required for building work above the commission's value threshold. Look the number up on the regulator's own register and check the class actually covers the surface you are having built.

Then put it in writing. New South Wales requires a written contract for residential building work above a set value, caps the deposit you can be asked to pay at 10 per cent, and requires that you be given a copy of the Consumer Building Guide before entering into the contract; larger contracts must also set out a cooling-off period of five clear business days. On top of that sit the Australian Consumer Law guarantees the ACCC enforces: services must be carried out with an acceptable level of care and skill, services and any resulting products must be fit for any stated purpose, and services must be supplied within a reasonable time where there is no agreed time frame. Writing down that the paving must carry a vehicle, or must drain to a particular point, makes that purpose stated rather than assumed.

LokalMatch is where the comparison starts. You describe the paving job once, with the area, the surface you have in mind, the slope of the site, what the surface has to carry and whether it reaches the kerb, and matched local paving and concreting contractors get in touch with you directly. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive, which is how the service is funded, and it costs a homeowner nothing to describe a job. LokalMatch does not lay paving, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so the licence check, the approval and the reference visits stay with you.

Paving: frequently asked questions

Do I need council approval to pave my yard or driveway?

Sometimes not, but the exemption is conditional rather than automatic. The NSW exempt development criteria for driveways, pathways and paving require the work to be off heritage items, heritage and draft heritage conservation areas, foreshore areas and environmentally sensitive land, to dispose of run-off through a drainage system connected to the existing stormwater system, and to comply with AS/NZS 2890.1:2004. Miss any condition and the exemption does not apply, so confirm the position for your address before you order materials.

Is there a maximum size for paving that does not need approval?

The NSW exempt development criteria for driveways, pathways and paving do not set a maximum area, a maximum width or a height limit. They control the work through conditions instead, principally the land the paving sits on, the stormwater connection and the parking standard it must be built to. That is unusual among the exempt categories, so do not assume the same is true of a patio or a shade structure, which are capped by area and height.

Where is the run-off from new paving supposed to go?

Into the stormwater system, by design rather than by accident. The exempt development criteria require paving to be constructed so any surface water or run-off is disposed of by a drainage system connected to the existing stormwater drainage system. The National Construction Code adds the performance side: water from a 5 per cent annual exceedance probability storm that is collected or concentrated by a building or sitework must be disposed of without likely damage or nuisance to any other property, and water from a 1 per cent storm must not enter the building.

Does paving need a licensed contractor?

Above your state's value threshold, yes, and the class matters. New South Wales covers driveways, paths and other paving of any material under structural landscaping, and concrete laying, formwork, reinforcement fixing and decorative finishes under general concreting. Queensland splits it by traffic, with the structural landscaping class limited to paving or concrete not intended to carry vehicular traffic. Check the number on the regulator's public register rather than on the quote letterhead.

What should the written contract cover before work starts?

The scope you cannot inspect later. Record the excavation depth, the base material and how it will be compacted, the falls and what the paving drains into, the joint layout, the finish, and any approval the contractor is obtaining. New South Wales requires a written contract above a set value, limits the deposit to 10 per cent, and requires the Consumer Building Guide to be given to you beforehand, with a five clear business day cooling-off period on larger contracts.

Why does new paving keep sinking in the same spot?

Because the problem is under it rather than in it. The usual causes are fill that was tipped rather than mechanically compacted in layers not more than 150 millimetres as the Housing Provisions require, a service trench backfilled loosely, or water washing fines out of the base. Relaying the surface without correcting the base and the drainage generally buys a season or two before the same dip returns.

Sources

  1. NSW Planning Portal: Driveways, pathways and paving as exempt development
  2. NSW Planning Portal: What exempt development is and the standards that apply
  3. NSW Planning Portal: Complying development, the fast-tracked pathway
  4. NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 3.2 Earthworks and compacted fill
  5. NCC Volume Two Part H2: Surface water performance requirements
  6. NSW Government: General concreting work licence
  7. NSW Government: Structural landscaping work licence
  8. NSW Government: Home building contracts, deposits and the cooling-off period
  9. QBCC: Concreting licence class
  10. QBCC: Structural landscaping (trade) licence scope
  11. ACCC: Consumer guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of paving

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and thickness of the area
  • Removal of the old surface
  • Excavation and base preparation
  • Finish, colour or pattern
  • Access for equipment and trucks
  • Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges

How to compare paving contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
  • Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
  • Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
  • Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
  • Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.

Questions to ask paving contractors before you hire

  • How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
  • Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
  • How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
  • What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?

When to call a pro for paving

  • Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
  • Water pooling against the foundation after rain
  • Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways

Paving permits and local rules

Some paving work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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