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A patio in Australia is an outdoor living area at ground level, and the vocabulary shifts as soon as you put a roof on it. An unroofed paved area is a patio or a terrace. Add a roof and it is usually a pergola, a verandah or an alfresco, depending on whether it is open-framed, attached along the side of the house, or tucked under the main roofline as part of the plan. Getting the word right matters, because the approval criteria, the bushfire rules and the licence classes all attach to the roofed version differently.
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The work runs from a paved or concrete slab with nothing above it, through attached pergolas and verandahs with steel or timber framing and sheet or polycarbonate roofing, to freestanding gazebos and shade structures. Most jobs are a slab and a structure combined, and the two halves are often approved, licensed and warranted separately even when one contractor does both.
Three Australian facts shape the job before style does. The exempt development criteria cap a patio by area, height and setback rather than leaving it to taste. On designated bushfire prone land what the structure may be built from is narrowed early. And where a new slab abuts the house, termite risk becomes a design question, because the National Construction Code treats attachments to buildings as their own case in its termite provisions.
Patios, pergolas, verandahs and alfrescos: what Australians call each one
- Patio: in everyday Australian use, a paved or concrete outdoor area at ground level, roofed or unroofed depending on who is speaking.
- Pergola: an open framed structure, traditionally unroofed or slatted, though the word is now used loosely for a roofed attached structure as well.
- Verandah: a roofed structure running along the side of the house, usually attached and often open on its outer edges.
- Alfresco: an outdoor living area built in under the main roofline of the house rather than added to the outside of it, common in project homes.
- Gazebo: a freestanding roofed structure standing away from the house, named in the Queensland structural landscaping licence class alongside pergolas.
- Shade structure: a separate exempt development category in New South Wales with its own height and setback limits, rather than a smaller patio.
- Deck: a raised platform, which matters legally because the National Construction Code names a deck associated with a house specifically in its bushfire provisions.
- Courtyard paving: an enclosed paved area between wings of a house or against a boundary, where drainage is usually the hardest part.
The exempt development caps on a patio, pergola or verandah
Unlike paving, which the NSW exempt development criteria control by condition rather than by size, a patio is capped by numbers. The criteria disqualify a structure from being exempt where it has an area of more than 25 square metres, or where it causes the total floor area of all such structures on the lot to be more than 15 per cent of the ground floor area of the dwelling for a lot larger than 300 square metres, or more than 25 square metres for a lot up to 300 square metres. So a second structure counts against the first, and the allowance is tied to the size of the house and the block rather than being a flat figure.
Height and position are capped too. The structure must not be more than 3 metres at its highest point above existing ground level, must not have an enclosing wall higher than 1.4 metres, and must not have a floor height of more than one metre above the existing ground level. It must be located behind the building line of any road frontage, and set back from each lot boundary by at least 5 metres in Zones RU1, RU2, RU3, RU4, RU6 or R5, or 900 millimetres in any other zone. Metal components must be low reflective, factory pre-coloured materials, which is why raw galvanised sheet is often knocked back. In a heritage conservation area or a draft heritage conservation area the structure must sit behind the building line of any road frontage.
Shade structures are treated as their own category with their own limits, requiring a height no greater than 3 metres from existing ground level and the same 5 metre or 900 millimetre setbacks, located behind the building line and not in a foreshore area, and built to be structurally adequate and installed in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications so as to comply with the Building Code of Australia. If your design exceeds any of these caps you are not stuck: complying development is the fast-tracked pathway that combines planning and construction approval for straightforward work, determined by a council or an accredited certifier and issued in as little as 20 days, with sign-off by a certifying authority because the works are larger than exempt development. Confirm the figures for your own state, council and address before drawing anything.
What changes the moment you put a roof over the patio
An unroofed paved area and a roofed one are different projects wearing the same name. The roof introduces a structure that has to be designed for wind uplift, footings that have to be placed before the slab is poured rather than after, and a rainwater catchment that did not exist before. That last one surprises people most: a roofed patio collects storm water that previously fell on open ground, and it has to be guttered and piped into the stormwater system like any other roof, not allowed to sheet off the edge onto the paving.
The roof also changes the paperwork. It brings the structure squarely inside the height and enclosing-wall caps in the exempt criteria, it makes the structure count towards the total floor area of all such structures on the lot, and it changes how the building is classified. The National Construction Code defines a Class 1 building as a dwelling and a Class 10 building as a non-habitable building or structure, with Class 10a described as a non-habitable building including a private garage, carport, shed or the like, and Class 10b covering structures such as fences, retaining walls and swimming pools. Which classification your structure falls into determines which provisions apply to it, so it is worth having the certifier or contractor state it rather than assuming.
Finally the roof changes the bushfire position, and it changes it twice over. The exempt criteria require that a structure located on bushfire prone land and less than 5 metres from a house be constructed of non-combustible material. Separately, the National Construction Code requires that a Class 1 building, or a Class 10a building or deck associated with a Class 1 building, constructed in a designated bushfire prone area be built in accordance with AS 3959 or the NASH Standard for steel framed construction in bushfire areas. Establish whether the block is designated before you choose a roofing material, not after the quote is accepted.
Slab levels at the house, drainage and curing a patio slab
The height at which a patio slab meets the house is the detail that decides whether the finished job causes problems, and it is set on day one. The ABCB Housing Provisions require the finished slab to stand above the finished ground level next to it, and the figure changes with what that ground is made of: 100 millimetres above finished ground level in low rainfall intensity areas or sandy, well-drained areas, 50 millimetres above impermeable paved or concrete areas that slope away from the building, and 150 millimetres in any other case. A patio slab poured level with the house floor, or a paved area built up over the slab edge, quietly removes that separation.
The ground around the building has to keep falling away from it as well, and the patio must not interrupt that. Where a roofed structure has been added, the guttering and downpipes serving it need somewhere to discharge into the stormwater system. Where the patio sits in a courtyard or against a boundary fence, ask specifically how water leaves that pocket during a heavy storm, because an enclosed paved area with a blocked outlet becomes a shallow pond against the wall of the house.
Then give the concrete time. The Housing Provisions specify slab concrete for housing with a strength at 28 days of not less than 20 megapascals, denoted N20 grade, a 20 millimetre maximum nominal aggregate size and a nominal 100 millimetre slump, and they require slab surfaces including edges to be moist cured for 7 days, with loading of slabs by stacked materials or building plant prohibited for a minimum of 7 days after pouring. Keep the delivery dockets showing the grade and slump, and agree in writing when furniture, a spa or a barbecue may go on the slab, because early loading damage is not a warranty claim.
Termites, and why a slab abutting the house is a design question
Of everything on a patio quote, the detail most likely to cost you later is the one nobody points at: how the new slab meets the existing house. Subterranean termites are a live risk across a very large share of Australia, and the ABCB Housing Provisions answer it by requiring a managed system wherever a house and its associated structures stand in an area of known risk. What matters for a patio, though, is not that general obligation but one specific line in the code's table of acceptable systems.
The important row in that table, for anyone adding a patio, is the one for attachments to buildings. It calls for a termite management system to the attachment, and an inspection zone between the attachment and the building. In other words the code anticipates exactly what a patio slab is — a new structure butting up against an existing house — and asks for a deliberate, inspectable separation rather than two slabs poured tight against one another. A patio built without it can give termites a concealed path into the house that no one can see during a routine inspection.
Two practical consequences follow. The system has to be recorded: the Housing Provisions require a durable notice stating the termite management system used, the date of installation, the life expectancy of any chemical as listed on the appropriate authority's register label, and the installer's or manufacturer's recommendations for the scope and frequency of future inspections. And in Queensland, chemical termite management is licensed work of any value, unlike most building work which is licensed only above the commission's threshold. Ask who is doing it, under what licence, and where the durable notice will be fixed.
- A patio slab poured hard against the house with no inspection zone, which is the arrangement the code's termite table is written to avoid.
- Paving or garden beds built up over the slab edge so the separation between finished paving and the building is lost.
- A roofed patio with no gutter, sheeting water onto the paving and back towards the wall in every storm.
- A courtyard or enclosed patio with a single outlet that silts up, turning the area into a shallow pond against the building.
- Footings for posts placed after the slab was poured, cored through it as an afterthought rather than designed with it.
- A structure built to the exempt caps on paper but measured from the wrong ground level, which is what turns an exempt job into an unapproved one.
- Raw galvanised or highly reflective metal on a structure where the criteria call for low reflective, factory pre-coloured materials.
- Combustible framing or roofing on a structure within 5 metres of a house on bushfire prone land.
Building and using a patio through the Australian year
Because summer runs from December to February and winter from June to August, the patio is being built for the opposite half of the year to the one a northern guide assumes. The season you are designing for is a hot one, which puts shade, orientation and afternoon sun at the centre of the layout rather than at the edge of it. Where the structure faces decides whether it is usable in January, and no amount of roofing fixes a west-facing alfresco with nothing to the side of it.
Construction timing follows the same logic as other outdoor work. In the southern states the middle of the year brings the softest ground for footings and the slowest concrete sets, while the tropical north splits into a wet and a dry season and substantial work is realistically booked in the dry. Hot, dry, windy conditions bring their own problem for a fresh slab, pulling water out of the surface faster than it can bleed, which is why summer pours are often started early and need a genuine curing plan rather than a promise.
Bushfire prone land runs to its own calendar again. If the structure has to be non-combustible because it sits within 5 metres of the house on designated land, or has to comply with AS 3959 or the NASH steel framed standard, that is settled at design stage rather than during the fire season. Clearing leaf litter out of the gutters of a roofed patio and out of the junction between the structure and the house is a job for the run-up to summer, not the middle of it.
Who is licensed to build a patio, and getting patio quotes on LokalMatch
The slab and the structure can fall to different licence classes, which is why a single quote sometimes conceals two trades. In New South Wales the structural landscaping category covers the construction of external landscape features and non-habitable structures, with examples that expressly include cabanas, pergolas, decks and non-habitable shelters as well as paths and other paving of any material, and a contractor licence is required above the value threshold under the Home Building Act 1989. In Queensland, the QBCC structural landscaping trade class covers preparing, fabricating and erecting carports, decking, fences, gazebos, pergolas and retaining walls of a height that do not require engineering certification under a local law, along with preparing the site and laying paving or concrete not intended to carry vehicular traffic. A QBCC licence is required for building work above the commission's value threshold, and chemical termite management is licensed at any value.
No licence class displaces the Australian Consumer Law guarantees the ACCC enforces, and the one that does the most work on a patio is fitness for a stated purpose — a purpose only counts if you actually stated it. Because almost everything that goes wrong with a patio is invisible by the time the job looks finished, put those purposes into the written scope: that the structure must be non-combustible because the block is designated bushfire prone, that an inspection zone is to be left where the slab meets the house, that the roof is to be guttered into the stormwater system, and that the finished levels must keep water running away from the wall.
On LokalMatch you describe the patio once, saying whether you want it roofed or open, roughly how large it is, whether it attaches to the house, what the ground does across the site and whether the block is bushfire prone, and matched patio, pergola and landscaping contractors contact you directly. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not build patios, does not quote or set prices, does not obtain approvals for you, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so confirming the licence class, the approval pathway and the termite detailing remains your job.
Patios: frequently asked questions
Do I need approval to build a patio or pergola?
Only if it exceeds the exempt criteria, which are specific. In New South Wales a structure stops being exempt once it has an area of more than 25 square metres, stands more than 3 metres at its highest point above existing ground level, has an enclosing wall higher than 1.4 metres, or has a floor height more than one metre above existing ground level. Setbacks of at least 5 metres apply in rural and large-lot residential zones and 900 millimetres elsewhere. Confirm the figures for your own council before you draw anything.
What is the difference between a pergola, a verandah and an alfresco?
They describe where the structure sits and how it is built. A pergola is an open framed structure, traditionally unroofed or slatted; a verandah is a roofed structure running along the side of the house; an alfresco is an outdoor living area built in under the main roofline rather than added to the outside of the house. Australians use all three where an American guide would just say covered patio, and the distinction matters because the roofed versions carry the height caps, the bushfire rules and the guttering obligations.
Can I add a second patio if I already have one?
Only within a shared allowance. The NSW exempt criteria look at the total floor area of all such structures on the lot, which must not exceed 15 per cent of the ground floor area of the dwelling on a lot larger than 300 square metres, or 25 square metres on a lot up to 300 square metres. An existing verandah or deck therefore eats into what a new patio can be, which is a common and expensive surprise.
My patio slab will butt against the house. Is that a termite problem?
It can be, and the code anticipates it. The ABCB Housing Provisions table of acceptable termite management systems has a row for attachments to buildings, calling for a termite management system to the attachment and an inspection zone between the attachment and the building. Two slabs poured tight together with no inspectable gap can give subterranean termites a concealed route into the house. Ask what is being done, and where the durable notice recording the system will be fixed.
I am on bushfire prone land. What changes for a roofed patio?
The materials are decided before the style is. The NSW exempt criteria require a structure on bushfire prone land that is less than 5 metres from a house to be constructed of non-combustible material. The National Construction Code separately requires a Class 1 building, or a Class 10a building or deck associated with one, constructed in a designated bushfire prone area to be built in accordance with AS 3959 or the NASH Standard for steel framed construction in bushfire areas. Confirm the designation of your block first.
How long before I can put furniture or a spa on a new patio slab?
Longer than it looks, and you should get the answer in writing. The Housing Provisions require slab surfaces including edges to be moist cured for 7 days and prohibit loading a slab with stacked materials or building plant for a minimum of 7 days after pouring. Anything heavy and concentrated, such as a spa, is a load the slab has to have been designed for in the first place, so mention it before the slab is designed rather than after it is poured.
Sources
- NSW Planning Portal: Balconies, decks, patios, pergolas, terraces and verandahs as exempt development
- NSW Planning Portal: Shade structures as exempt development
- NSW Planning Portal: Complying development certificates
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 3.4 Termite risk management
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 3.3 Drainage and slab heights above ground
- NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 4.2 Footings, slabs, concrete grade and curing
- NCC Volume Two Part H7: Construction in designated bushfire prone areas
- NCC Volume Two Part A6: Building classification, Class 1 and Class 10
- QBCC: Structural landscaping (trade) licence, pergolas and gazebos
- QBCC: Who must hold a QBCC licence
- NSW Government: Structural landscaping work licence, pergolas and shelters
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees for services
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of patio
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and thickness of the area
- Removal of the old surface
- Excavation and base preparation
- Finish, colour or pattern
- Access for equipment and trucks
- Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges
How to compare patio contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
- Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
- Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
- Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
- Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.
Questions to ask patio contractors before you hire
- How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
- Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
- How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
- What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?
When to call a pro for patio
- Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
- Water pooling against the foundation after rain
- Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways
Patio permits and local rules
Some patio work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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